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1994 BRONCO/CAMPER BUILD/TRANSFORMATION

It's much cheaper to just not be an idiot and tune your carb if you don't like how it runs.
It runs fine. Swapping to efi with a cylinder head and manifolds I got for free is cheaper and easier than finding a 4bbl intake for a 300 right now. If efi also helps it not stink so much, that's a bonus too.
 
Yeah, EFI is definitely the better option in that case if you already have a harness and computer to go with.
 
Carbed 300's are notoriously hard to tune. When they are right, the middle 2 cylinders will be rich. The next ones out will be perfect and the outers will be lean.

Port FI is the best thing you can do for them. The ford computers on the other hand belong in the dumpster. I ran a stand alone on mine to get away from the unforgiving Ford junk.
 
You're 0 for 2. :shaking:
Carbed 300's are notoriously hard to tune. When they are right, the middle 2 cylinders will be rich. The next ones out will be perfect and the outers will be lean.

Only if you want to be that dumb anal hot rodder who needs shit perfect.

It's pretty easy to get 6/6 stoich to lean at cruise and stoich to rich when you mat it. Same goes for every other U-flow I6 with a log manifold.

The ford computers on the other hand belong in the dumpster. I ran a stand alone on mine to get away from the unforgiving Ford junk.
The Ford computers are great for what they are. You must be a giant fucking moron if you think they're unforgiving. They'll literally try their best to run it given whatever sensor inputs they got. Not like the GM shit that goes into limp mode if the wrong sensor goes out of spec.

They're not really easily tunable anymore though so buy a megasquirt if you want that.
 
You're 0 for 2. :shaking:


Only if you want to be that dumb anal hot rodder who needs shit perfect.

It's pretty easy to get 6/6 stoich to lean at cruise and stoich to rich when you mat it. Same goes for every other U-flow I6 with a log manifold.


The Ford computers are great for what they are. You must be a giant fucking moron if you think they're unforgiving. They'll literally try their best to run it given whatever sensor inputs they got. Not like the GM shit that goes into limp mode if the wrong sensor goes out of spec.

They're not really easily tunable anymore though so buy a megasquirt if you want that.
Yeah, go throw a cam and injectors in with a speed density computer in a bronco. Let me know how that goes. If it's bone stock they are great. If you want some performance mods, they are shit.
 
Yeah, go throw a cam and injectors in with a speed density computer in a bronco. Let me know how that goes. If it's bone stock they are great. If you want some performance mods, they are shit.
They're pretty tolerant of cams. No EFI system will tolerate some mouth breathing mullet wearing fucktard adding un-metered fuel.


Not sure what you're getting at. I already said it's not worth tuning. But they make drop in replacement Megasquirt so there's no harm in running a stock computer while you can.
 
You're 0 for 2. :shaking:


Only if you want to be that dumb anal hot rodder who needs shit perfect.

It's pretty easy to get 6/6 stoich to lean at cruise and stoich to rich when you mat it. Same goes for every other U-flow I6 with a log manifold.


The Ford computers are great for what they are. You must be a giant fucking moron if you think they're unforgiving. They'll literally try their best to run it given whatever sensor inputs they got. Not like the GM shit that goes into limp mode if the wrong sensor goes out of spec.

They're not really easily tunable anymore though so buy a megasquirt if you want that.
Must be difficult being so smart…
 
Remounted the driving lights:
20230929_141620.jpg
 
Experimenting:
1696184542276.png


Took the cushions from the camper and see if I could make a bed in the Bronco.

It's 8ft from where the tailgate meets the bed to the dashboard.
And 3ft wide from right side of driver seat to the pass. door.
 
I gravity-bled the rear brakes, but couldn't do the front brakes because the bleeder screws point almost straight up.

Tested said brakes on a drive anyway: big improvement!
Much firmer pedal pressure.

Next month I'm going to buy the pressure bleeder to do the front.
 
It shouldn't matter which way the bleeder points because the reservoir is so far above it and fluid will flow out there.

If your bleeders are siezed remove the caliper, orient it so that the hose connection is the top most point and crack the banjo bolt to achieve the same effect.
 
It shouldn't matter which way the bleeder points because the reservoir is so far above it and fluid will flow out there.
I was thinking the same.
So should I just wait longer for the fluid to flow?

The rear brakes dripping took about 20min in each corner.
If your bleeders are siezed remove the caliper, orient it so that the hose connection is the top most point and crack the banjo bolt to achieve the same effect.
Good point; I'll try that.

I think I'll remove the top caliper bolt to pivot said caliper backward to orient the bleeder screw like the rear bleeder screw angle (3 or 4 O'clock position).
 
I think your hoses are probably not letting fluid through from just gravity alone. I would advise your bleed the front the "normal way" using the pedal.
 
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