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1994 BRONCO/CAMPER BUILD/TRANSFORMATION

Also, all the lines under the dash are in the same condition. If you touch them they will fall apart too.
 
Bebop said:
Can't you just delete the EGR ?
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Good question; but I don't know how that works.

Example:
I don't know what would happen if I simply removed the vacuum lines from the ERG/EVR and the two solenoids behind it.
As well as the valve/solenoid thingy behind the intake manifold with the yellow and pink vacuum.

1675702451137-png.643193



The fuel pressure regulator vacuum line; I understand what it does/why it exists.✔️
Same with the A/C system vacuum line.✔️

The other vacuum vacuum lines; no idea.😬
 
Are you in CA /Trying to pass SMOG ?
 
Then pull all of this EGR shit out
 
Try :flipoff2:

But nothing will happen if you plug the ports in the manifold.

You'll need to remove the solenoid that vents the fuel tank too and let it vent to atmosphere.
 
CDA 455 II said:
While keeping the A/C system and fuel pressure regulator vacuum lines connected to the tree;
What would happen if I disconnect all the other vacuum lines (EGR/smog pump solenoids)?
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The check engine light will come on. This is how my 96 F250 with the 5.8 is.
 
Bebop said:
Try :flipoff2:

But nothing will happen if you plug the ports in the manifold.

You'll need to remove the solenoid that vents the fuel tank too and let it vent to atmosphere.
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I know where the 'carbon can' is; just got to find said solenoid.

Can I assume I can vent the fuel tank like I vent my axles/T-case: a length of hose and a clear plastic fuel filter?
 
Yeah.

But again, since I'm not familiar with Ford stuff, try to unplug the stuff and see what happens
 
Bebop said:
There is no way to fool this ?
I'd be surprised if that's impossible to do.
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I’m sure there is, but honestly I haven’t looked into it. My truck is just used to cut firewood and other farm type chores. The light doesn’t bother me. If there is an easy work around then I’d do it. If not then I’m not worried about it
 
Bebop said:
There is no way to fool this ?
I'd be surprised if that's impossible to do.
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The smog pump uses the TAD & the TAB. The smog pump does not affect engine tuning, so you can just delete that whole system w/o any impact on how it runs. The PCM will throw a code for the TAD & TAB solenoids being unplugged. However, some PCM calibrations will throw a CEL. I dont know which ones though so youd have to unplug one of them and see what happens.

The EGR does affect engine tuning. If you unplug it and cap the port off it will throw a CEL. So you just leave it installed. OR, you put the correct resistor inline so the PCM thinks the EGR is closed. It will throw a code for "EGR Valve Opening Not Detected" but it wont throw a CEL . Itll tune the engine as if the valve is closed. Then you can eliminate it



My opinion is to delete the smog pump, TAD, TAB and all related parts, and leave the EGR alone. This will eliminate most of the vacuum system under the hood. Thats what im doing with the 90 Bronco im rebuilding currently.
 
Bebop said:
You'll need to remove the solenoid that vents the fuel tank too and let it vent to atmosphere.
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the CANP (canister purge solenoid) is used to pull a vacuum on the charcoal canister to get rid of any built up exhaust gases. You can leave it in there, it doesnt hurt anything. If you are planning on eliminating the charcoal canister then you might as well get rid of the CANP as well.

The 87 & 88 EFI trucks dont have the CANP, it was added for the 89 model year. In the older trucks the charcoal canister just vented to atmosphere. My 88 no longer has the charcoal canister, the tank just vents behind the taillight. The 90 & 96 i kept the charcoal canister, CANP and the EGR. No smog pumps on anything i own.
 
reptillikus said:
The smog pump uses the TAD & the TAB. The smog pump does not affect engine tuning, so you can just delete that whole system w/o any impact on how it runs. The PCM will throw a code for the TAD & TAB solenoids being unplugged. However, some PCM calibrations will throw a CEL. I dont know which ones though so youd have to unplug one of them and see what happens.

The EGR does affect engine tuning. If you unplug it and cap the port off it will throw a CEL. So you just leave it installed. OR, you put the correct resistor inline so the PCM thinks the EGR is closed. It will throw a code for "EGR Valve Opening Not Detected" but it wont throw a CEL . Itll tune the engine as if the valve is closed. Then you can eliminate it
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I think this plug does that:
500_2cae025f-af5e-498d-9da1-0bff9d994ccd_1024x1024.jpg


reptillikus said:
My opinion is to delete the smog pump, TAD, TAB and all related parts, and leave the EGR alone. This will eliminate most of the vacuum system under the hood. Thats what im doing with the 90 Bronco im rebuilding currently.
Click to expand...

So leave the EGR and it's EVR (where the two vacuum lines connect) alone?
 
If youve found an EGR eliminator then yeah you can get rid of it. I didnt realize anyone still made them. I ran one for years on my 88 with no issues (altho now with the custom tuning its no longer required). All the eliminator does is tell the PCM the EGR is closed, so like i said, it might throw a CEL, but most likely it wont. I still run the EGR on my other trucks because emissions is required in my county in PA and while everyone looks for the EGR, no one seems to notice when the smog pump is missing.
 
I just made a gasket shaped block off plate for the EGR. With it still bolted on it all looked factory. Did not throw CEL's. That was when I was still trying to play the emissions game.
 
reptillikus said:
If youve found an EGR eliminator then yeah you can get rid of it. I didnt realize anyone still made them. I ran one for years on my 88 with no issues (altho now with the custom tuning its no longer required). All the eliminator does is tell the PCM the EGR is closed, so like i said, it might throw a CEL, but most likely it wont. I still run the EGR on my other trucks because emissions is required in my county in PA and while everyone looks for the EGR, no one seems to notice when the smog pump is missing.
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I looked where the eliminator plug is coming from: ChiCom China....
 
Bebop said:
There is no way to fool this ?
I'd be surprised if that's impossible to do.
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Black electrical tape works great for “check engine light.”

Edit, just read the whole thread. I’m sub’now. Couple things I recall. First my headlight plug burned just like yours. (twice) I installed a separate switch For just the headlights. Side lights are fine with the burned plug.

The bolt on shock mounts you picture from rock auto look like Superduty mounts you can unbolt at a junk yard. Maybe too big of a axle cut out though.

You really need to keep your eye out for a front 2005 or newer Super duty front axle. Pretty easy swap.
 
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I really like how you moved the rear axle back 5”. Broncos are good for towing because of the short “axle to ball” measurement. Not so good because of the short wheel base. Moving that back improves both numbers and the departure angle too.
 
WaterH said:
Black electrical tape works great for “check engine light.”

Edit, just read the whole thread. I’m sub’now. Couple things I recall. First my headlight plug burned just like yours. (twice) I installed a separate switch For just the headlights. Side lights are fine with the burned plug.

The bolt on shock mounts you picture from rock auto look like Superduty mounts you can unbolt at a junk yard. Maybe too big of a axle cut out though.

You really need to keep your eye out for a front 2005 or newer Super duty front axle. Pretty easy swap.
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My limitation: 💰💵💰💵💰💵

I've had plans for an '05+ F-550 front axle swap ever since I swapped in the 10.25 dually rear axle three years ago.
BTW; said dually rear axle tube is 3.5" dia.:grinpimp:

But I've spent said three years replacing worn out parts.
My Bronco monthly maintenance allotment has been about $300.😠🤷‍♂️
I'm hoping that will eventually become the monthly gas money allotment.

After the body mount replacement this Spring I'll pretty much be ready to head out for backcountry camping.:smokin:
 
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