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1994 BRONCO/CAMPER BUILD/TRANSFORMATION

Straighter up and down is better but makes it hard to fit a long shock. From memory, you can only lean the P side in so far before it hits the exhuast pipe.
 
bdkw1 said:
Straighter up and down is better but makes it hard to fit a long shock. From memory, you can only lean the P side in so far before it hits the exhuast pipe.
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You gave me an idea:
1671851321370.png

Use a leaf spring plate as a lower shock mount.

And bolt an upper shock mount on the frame and have it through the bed.
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Thoughts/suggestions?🤔
 
Unless that axle is way wider than stock no. When it articulates the shock will foul the frame or tire depending on which way its flexing. I put the bumps out board on my old bronco. I had to sink them into the frame to keep them out of the tires. That was stock Alcoas and a van axle which is 1-1/2" wider per side?
 
With that two leaf pack keeping the mounts in the stock location might help with axle wrap a bit. Going through the body brings a whole new list of challenges for something you want to drive around the country (if i'm remembering right), that would be a last resort for me.
 
bdkw1 said:
Unless that axle is way wider than stock no. When it articulates the shock will foul the frame or tire depending on which way its flexing. I put the bumps out board on my old bronco. I had to sink them into the frame to keep them out of the tires. That was stock Alcoas and a van axle which is 1-1/2" wider per side?
Click to expand...
The axle is a '87 10.25 dually.

The WMS of said axle happens to be the same width of the Bronco at the fenders: 72"
1671856983512.jpeg
 
AK_F250 said:
With that two leaf pack keeping the mounts in the stock location might help with axle wrap a bit. Going through the body brings a whole new list of challenges for something you want to drive around the country (if i'm remembering right), that would be a last resort for me.
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It's up to 5 leaves total now:
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Can you expand on "going through the body" point?

Since the camper covers the Bronco bed; I wouldn't lose anything.
 
Ok, looks like you have enough room. I doubt the mounts centered on the springs will be out far enough. The bottom mount needs to be roughly centered between the frame and the tire. The top can lean in some. With the shocks mounted that high, you will need to cut holes in the wheel wells because the top of the shock will end up about 6" above the floor. Probably not a deal breaker for you as long as it clears the camper.
 
bdkw1 said:
Ok, looks like you have enough room. I doubt the mounts centered on the springs will be out far enough. The bottom mount needs to be roughly centered between the frame and the tire. The top can lean in some. With the shocks mounted that high, you will need to cut holes in the wheel wells because the top of the shock will end up about 6" above the floor. Probably not a deal breaker for you as long as it clears the camper.
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Well shit...
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1671904404671.jpeg

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Outside the frame would put the in the wheel well and clear the camper judging by those pics.
 
I replaced the battery cables with OEM about three years ago.

When I replace/upgrade the starter next month; would it be worth it to upgrade to 2ga battery cables/10ga starter relay cable?
 
Gbkeith said:
I’ve never cranked on something in the winter and thought “man, I’m just getting too much current flowing from the battery.” But most of my stuff is diesel and has other issues. How does it start now?
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Very labored.

Yesterday I started it up with the battery charger still hooked up AND had been charging/maintaining all night previous.
It still had a difficult time starting; but it started.
BTW; it's a Walmart-brand.

In March the battery will be 4y.o..
Since moving up here in '99, EVERY battery in it's 4th and 5th year struggle during the Winter months.
In addition; I'm also nursing a 4y.o. POS OEM-replacement starter (wiggle the wires and/or solenoid:mad3:).

After the new year; I might go to Walmart and see if I can get a battery pro-rated refund if I buy another group 65 battery.
 
Looks like I'll be buying a new starter.

The battery is averaging 12.3v on cold mornings before starts.
13.5v while engine running.
Battery appears to be reasonably healthy.

I'm looking at the Powermaster
9603
1672334012789.png


9604
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I've read the 9603 is for autos while the 9604 is for manuals.
 
Now ditch the POS solenoid on the inner fender and just use the one on the starter.
 
CDA 455 II said:
nOOB question:

How do I do that?
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Run battery cable directly to starter. Run trigger wire to spade terminal on starter. Done. This will eliminate 1 cable connection and the contacts in the starter are way better than the Ford ones.

The instructions probably say to attach the current cable from the solenoid to the starter then run a jumper from the cable connection on the starter to the spade terminal on the starter. While thus will work, it is adding a redundant part to the system. Less parts, less things to go wrong.
 
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