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1991 Snow Tracker Build

Got the rust-primer on and white flat. Going to bed line some sections of this Saturday when it’s 60. Respirators only work “okay” when it’s 32 outside and you have to limit fresh, cold air.

Also discovered two more holes in the floor. This probably only has another 4 years to survive. Changes the plans for the red one.

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Dude. That thing is mint. Send her my way when it’s “too rusted” :lmao:

It’ll get trailered to the trails at that point. I just mean as a road legal vehicle.

The rear seat belts are getting questionable.
 
It’ll get trailered to the trails at that point. I just mean as a road legal vehicle.

The rear seat belts are getting questionable.

Right, right, I forgot about the PA inspection. It’s great over here, they let your shit literally fall apart at the intersection. :lmao:
 
So, I did some REDNECK patch jobs, because...why not? :flipoff2: the haters.

RTV in the small holes and RTV to seal the patches. :laughing: Can’t even tell when done.

Don’t ask me why I didn’t bedline the whole thing. I just didn’t.

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Well, I decided to drop the front axle assembly and do the oil pan gasket as I was sure that’s where my severe oil leak was.

Yeah, pretty sure the block is cracked. Probably from these weak OEM motor mounts shaking it.

Anyone ever dump any block sealer in a can into their engine?
 
I thought of that too, and probably going to give it a try. Pretty sure it’s right near the p/s pump. I know the block is cracked where HWY 83 Suzuki pointed out in his video, on the number 2 cylinder, but figure I’ll run her till she blows.

My biggest fear is that this oil leak turns into Niagara Falls on the trails.
 
It’s the power steering pump adding stress on the main seal and oil pump. It leaks pretty profusely with the pump installed. When it’s not installed, zero leaks. Weird.
 
I’m actually enjoying getting this thing all buttoned up.

Anyone know if those rubbery plastic trim pieces are glued or screwed down?

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Now I’m going to get into replacing the intake gaskets and the exhaust gaskets. I need to figure out how to get this running perfectly. I idled it down to 800 rpms and can’t tell if I have engine work that needs done, or if the throttle body and stuff needs cleaned well.

 
Did a compression test tonight. No compression in cylinder #1. I’m assuming it’s the valves.
 
Did a compression test tonight. No compression in cylinder #1. I’m assuming it’s the valves.

No wonder you said it was so slow. :laughing:

You sure it's not a HG? The 8v's seemed kinda notorious for it. You going to just convert to the 16v you got? Should be about double the power of 3/4 of an 8v.
 
No wonder you said it was so slow. :laughing:

You sure it's not a HG? The 8v's seemed kinda notorious for it. You going to just convert to the 16v you got? Should be about double the power of 3/4 of an 8v.

3 cylinders, man!

No other HG signs...?

I don’t have any running Geo engines now.
 
I don't know, I mean if youve looked in the thread about my 7.3, I obviously am no engine guy :laughing:

Is it possible to pop a HG and only leak compression?

What's the spark plug look like in that hole?
 
I don't know, I mean if youve looked in the thread about my 7.3, I obviously am no engine guy :laughing:

Is it possible to pop a HG and only leak compression?

What's the spark plug look like in that hole?

I’m not an engine guy either. :laughing:

I don’t think so. I’m thinking it’s the valves.

It was dark and wet if I recall correctly. Brand new NGK, too. If all I have to do is rebuild the head, that won’t be too bad.
 
I’m not an engine guy either. :laughing:

I don’t think so. I’m thinking it’s the valves.

It was dark and wet if I recall correctly. Brand new NGK, too. If all I have to do is rebuild the head, that won’t be too bad.

I think you're wasting your time rebuilding the head. I've heard stories of guys putting new/rebuilt heads on high mileage motors, the worn bottom end not liking the extra compression and blowing rings out. Could be an old wives tale though, but it kinda makes sense. My old work had a forklift that the mechanic said that what happened.

I'm telling, any money or time spent, spend it on the 16v.

Also, if you're going to be stubborn, fuck rebuilding when you can go new

 
I think you're wasting your time rebuilding the head. I've heard stories of guys putting new/rebuilt heads on high mileage motors, the worn bottom end not liking the extra compression and blowing rings out. Could be an old wives tale though, but it kinda makes sense. My old work had a forklift that the mechanic said that what happened.

I'm telling, any money or time spent, spend it on the 16v.

Also, if you're going to be stubborn, fuck rebuilding when you can go new

Not a wives tale. The increased valve seal creates more vacuum in the cylinder on the intake stroke. The increased vacuum make it suck oil past the already worn rings.
 
I think you're wasting your time rebuilding the head. I've heard stories of guys putting new/rebuilt heads on high mileage motors, the worn bottom end not liking the extra compression and blowing rings out. Could be an old wives tale though, but it kinda makes sense. My old work had a forklift that the mechanic said that what happened.

I'm telling, any money or time spent, spend it on the 16v.

Also, if you're going to be stubborn, fuck rebuilding when you can go new


Wow that’s an awesome price for a new head!!!! Most places want $600 for remanufactured heads.

Not a wives tale. The increased valve seal creates more vacuum in the cylinder on the intake stroke. The increased vacuum make it suck oil past the already worn rings.

So you guys are basically saying that I need to do a whole rebuild, basically? Is this even if I fix the valve issue in just cylinder one?

I’m going to pull the cover today and see if anything is noticeable up top.

EDIT: Would it be possible to just replace the rings and not do a full rebuild without machining anything? When I had the oil pan off everything looked good on the bottom end.

It definitely makes sense what CoveCrawler said. Just trying to figure out the best way to keep this engine running for a bit longer.
 
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Not a wives tale. The increased valve seal creates more vacuum in the cylinder on the intake stroke. The increased vacuum make it suck oil past the already worn rings.

Thats exactly what the forklift was doing, it smoked so bad it would give you a headache even moving :laughing:

Wow that’s an awesome price for a new head!!!! Most places want $600 for remanufactured heads.



So you guys are basically saying that I need to do a whole rebuild, basically? Is this even if I fix the valve issue in just cylinder one?

I’m going to pull the cover today and see if anything is noticeable up top.

EDIT: Would it be possible to just replace the rings and not do a full rebuild without machining anything? When I had the oil pan off everything looked good on the bottom end.

It definitely makes sense what CoveCrawler said. Just trying to figure out the best way to keep this engine running for a bit longer.

You really want to pull it all the way apart, and half ass it? You're just throwing away money at that point.

1)Purple 16v into white rig
2)rebuild red 16v at your leisure
3)drink beer
4)?
5)profit?

:flipoff2:
 
Thats exactly what the forklift was doing, it smoked so bad it would give you a headache even moving :laughing:



You really want to pull it all the way apart, and half ass it? You're just throwing away money at that point.

1)Purple 16v into white rig
2)rebuild red 16v at your leisure
3)drink beer
4)?
5)profit?

:flipoff2:

The red Geo is banging so loud that I don’t think it’s going to be a “cheap” rebuild.

I’m hesitant to not get the red one up and running as it’s 100% rust free and just an awesome vehicle.

I would rather let the white one sit on the back burner.
 
This is what I found under the valve cover. Cylinder one springs are loose enough I can wiggle them. No idea where the rest of that screw went.

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I would just be very hesitant to spend time an effort to rebuild an 8v. They're a decent motor for cheap, but when 16v and 2.0s are out there for cheap, it just doesn't make any sense. At least the 1.3 is bullet proof :laughing:
 
I would just be very hesitant to spend time an effort to rebuild an 8v. They're a decent motor for cheap, but when 16v and 2.0s are out there for cheap, it just doesn't make any sense. At least the 1.3 is bullet proof :laughing:

Dude, you guys keep saying this, and it just isn’t true around here. NO ONE has these engines and if they do, I can’t find them.

That Sidekick cost me $1,300 for it and that gives me one running engine in a beat turd.

Have to work with what’s available. If ya’ll want to ship me these awesome, highly available engines, I’ll pay for them. :flipoff2:
 
Dude, you guys keep saying this, and it just isn’t true around here. NO ONE has these engines and if they do, I can’t find them.

That Sidekick cost me $1,300 for it and that gives me one running engine in a beat turd.

Have to work with what’s available. If ya’ll want to ship me these awesome, highly available engines, I’ll pay for them. :flipoff2:
He’s from California. He’d probably be surprised what’s available in his little Idaho town now too.
 
He’s from California. He’d probably be surprised what’s available in his little Idaho town now too.

Every time I travel out west I want to punch all of you guys in the balls. It’s like a blast to the past out there.

This Sidekick is literally falling off the frame. I’m pretty sure my Kioti can roll the body right off and smash it all up.
 
He’s from California. He’d probably be surprised what’s available in his little Idaho town now too.

Nothing remotely 4x4 related is cheap in norcal, everyone wants a "crawler"

People will list a rolled explorer that runs on 5 cylinders for $1200 and say it would be a good crawler:homer:

I'm not talking clean slates, I'm just talking engine donors.

Can't remember what part of PA he's in.



Don't forget some cars have engines that will work. The ~2000 areos are badass little 2.3s with like 170hp and will bolt to that trans.

I usually hate when people say that used parts are plentiful and cheap, because they usually aren't, but most people don't want those 2nd gen trackers/vitaras as they look like a crv more than a real 4x4.


Either way, just don't waste money on the 8v. I'd rather do a cheap 1.0 metro swap than rebuild an 8v. :flipoff2:
 
Nothing remotely 4x4 related is cheap in norcal, everyone wants a "crawler"

People will list a rolled explorer that runs on 5 cylinders for $1200 and say it would be a good crawler:homer:

I'm not talking clean slates, I'm just talking engine donors.

Can't remember what part of PA he's in.



Don't forget some cars have engines that will work. The ~2000 areos are badass little 2.3s with like 170hp and will bolt to that trans.

I usually hate when people say that used parts are plentiful and cheap, because they usually aren't, but most people don't want those 2nd gen trackers/vitaras as they look like a crv more than a real 4x4.


Either way, just don't waste money on the 8v. I'd rather do a cheap 1.0 metro swap than rebuild an 8v. :flipoff2:

Then I’ll just run it until completely dies. Been beating on it for a year like it is now. It clearly only “needs” 3 cylinders. :flipoff2:
 
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