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1991 Snow Tracker Build
- Thread starter FleshEater
- Start date
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- Tags
- suzuki
Byro
Lurkin’
There was a whole shipping container of tires lost in the ocean a while back. The 15” Zillas are few and far between as of right now. Hell at Hammers we were switching tires around on MCs prerunner KRX to his race car so he’d have tires, the same for the Miller boys so they could race 4400.
They would be absolutely awesome on a Track/Kick/Sami especially the comp compound, they are a mini Trep in every sense. The comp compounds may wear quicker but the standard compound UTV tires will not know they aren’t on a UTV. -disclaimer- Also running UTV tires on the street may be illegal in your area. -end disclaimer-
Byro
Lurkin’
I believe the extra wiring in the AC system is a high idle deal. When you kick the AC on the computer bumps the idle up a bit to compensate for the extra drag. That may only be the 16v’s though. I’m re learning all the Tracker tricks from 12-15 years ago. 
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I believe the extra wiring in the AC system is a high idle deal. When you kick the AC on the computer bumps the idle up a bit to compensate for the extra drag. That may only be the 16v’s though. I’m re learning all the Tracker tricks from 12-15 years ago.
My 84’ Bronco had a deal that when the A/C kicked on something else would adjust and I’ll be damned if I can remember what it was.
Maybe I’ll unplug all the electrical from the A/C and see if it changes anything while driving. If not, yank it all.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Just waiting for parts.
Also, didn’t feel like finding bolts to fit the A/C compressor bracket so got rid of that.
Also, didn’t feel like finding bolts to fit the A/C compressor bracket so got rid of that.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I got some time today and was looking around the throttle body. There was an adjuster for the cable that pulls the throttle. It had a ton of slack in it. I adjusted that. Want to see if that helps. I’ll tinker with both after I do new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, too.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Anybody ever add a mechanical oil pressure and coolant temp gauge in this motors?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Booooooooooo
Where are the pics!
Where are the pics!
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Booooooooooo
Where are the pics!
I said fuck that strut, fuck that lift, and I bombed this down some back roads tonight. This thing fucking RIPS in 2WD. I got up my driveway, which is solid ice and quite an incline. Neither the Tahoe or Silverado can make it up in 2WD!
Pics coming when the site stops being ghey.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Figured it out.
That looks cool AF 
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Works fine, as long as you don't have to turn or go over a bump
Squamch
Canadian
What is the overall length on that unit? Also front bumper to centerline of the rear axle? I've got a 9' flatdeck on my f350, I keep wondering if I should buy one of these for a backpack for it.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I had my samurai on an 8' flatbed. The rear tire was about perfectly centered over the edge of the bed with the leafs hitting the headache rack. Google says early track kick is 6" longer wheelbase so with an extra foot of bed and a super stubby bumper, I think it would be tight, but work. I'd like to put a 9' flat bed on my F350 and so the same thing with my sami. Would be handy when the tracks are on because I could go a lot closer to the deep snow without a trailer.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Tires rub just a little.
Pretty sure this is shorter than my Wolverine. Should fit on a 9’ deck.
Pretty sure this is shorter than my Wolverine. Should fit on a 9’ deck.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
So, really thinking I should put the old Bronco wheels and tires on this for inspection. I think the limit in PA is 2”.
Hopefully I get the 2” lift on 2 weeks from now. That snow storm killed shipping.
Need to do the motor mounts this week.
Hopefully I get the 2” lift on 2 weeks from now. That snow storm killed shipping.
Need to do the motor mounts this week.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Me and the oldest kid took this to my parents’ house today. Passed a state cop sitting where they never do and I about shit. I got 6 days until I need a new inspection, and the tag expired 12/20. He never even batted an eye at this turd!
Poser shot.
Poser shot.
Who’s even looking at a tracker? That doesn’t look like a tweeker ride so you’re invisible. Knock on wood I’ve never been pulled over in mine. People always assume I tip toe around because of the non DOT tires. The only trouble I worry about getting in is for not being able to maintain the speed limit. The drive to hunting camp has me going up hill on a highway that the speed limit is 65 mph and I’m impeding traffic squirrels screaming at all of 45 mph. If I grab the next gear it actually slows down.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Okay, glad it’s not just me. I have to run 1st gear way out and then 2nd just bogs.
The only hurdle I haven’t found an easy clean option for is gearing. They came from the factory with 5.13’s for 27” tall tires. The correct gear ratio to run 30’s is 5.71:1.
For 31’s it’s 5.89.
You run out of available ratios for diffs that make sense right there.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I’m fine holding up traffic. Most speed limits here are 45-55 mph. Back roads are as fast as you can go.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I must have gotten the best running 8v back when 8 swapped my samurai on 37s, didn't seem as bad as what you guys are talking about.
Squamch
Canadian
Okay, glad it’s not just me. I have to run 1st gear way out and then 2nd just bogs.
That's just driving a suzuki. We used to skip school to wheel my samurai, and the joke was as we ran up the mountain on the highway "THIRD GEEEEEEAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRR *shift* fooooouuuuurrrrrrthhhhhhhh geeeeeeaaaaaarrrrrr...BACK TO THIRD GEEEEAAARRRRR" running 4000 in 3rd, or not maintaining 3200 in 4th
A very non-mechanically inclined friend bought a samurai, and siezed it the first weekend he owned it. We asked what happened, he said he was cruising along and it just died!
A little more discussion, we learn he had been "cruising" at about 120-130km/hr (75-80mph) for the last hour and a half. "I thought that's just how it sounded!"
"No dude, that was a dieing scream. It was begging for mercy."
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Sometimes I feel bad running the old girl up to 4k-4.5k, but by the time I get the clutch out she’s bogging down.
Hopefully I get this thing lifted this week. The storm really screwed some of my shipping. Get it lifted, aligned, and then inspected and I’ll be driving it all the time, because it’s too fucking fun to leave sit!
Hopefully I get this thing lifted this week. The storm really screwed some of my shipping. Get it lifted, aligned, and then inspected and I’ll be driving it all the time, because it’s too fucking fun to leave sit!
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Any of you guys have a spare windshield washer bottle laying around that you’d want to sell?
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Pretty sure I need a new heater core or it’s leaking, and certain the manifold gasket needs done. Inside of car has a faint smell of coolant, and under the hood the manifold is quite noticeable. But runs like a champ.
Question for you guys. This PO replaced the clutch. He said it needed a new clutch cable. Symptom? When the clutch is pushed to the floor it won’t shift. You have to ease off the floor about an inch and it’s like butter.
I put a new clutch cable on and tried adjusting it. This pedal is pretty stiff from the word go and the cable took some muscle just to get in place. It still grinds if you push the clutch to the floor, but otherwise runs fine.
My thoughts are either that the linkage the cable bolts to needs adjusted, or they did something wrong.
Has anyone else experienced this? I can’t loosen the cable anymore than it is. Am I right in ASSuming the linkage needs adjusted?
Question for you guys. This PO replaced the clutch. He said it needed a new clutch cable. Symptom? When the clutch is pushed to the floor it won’t shift. You have to ease off the floor about an inch and it’s like butter.
I put a new clutch cable on and tried adjusting it. This pedal is pretty stiff from the word go and the cable took some muscle just to get in place. It still grinds if you push the clutch to the floor, but otherwise runs fine.
My thoughts are either that the linkage the cable bolts to needs adjusted, or they did something wrong.
Has anyone else experienced this? I can’t loosen the cable anymore than it is. Am I right in ASSuming the linkage needs adjusted?
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The clutch linkage on the transmission side is an arm on a splined shaft. Sounds like the arm got pulled off and put back on a spline or two off so it’s caming over past the right part of the fork throw. I’d mark that arm and shaft where it is and rotate it one spline at a time till it shifts good with pedal at the floor
What about t-case gears with a lower high range? I recall seeing those for Sammy cases, not sure what fits in these cases though.
I know that at least in WA and OR, expired tags and trip permits aren't even getting looked at due to the LOOOOONG DMV/DOL delays from covid closures. And those tires don't look like anything more than a generic MT so most officers wouldn't even know the difference.
I know that at least in WA and OR, expired tags and trip permits aren't even getting looked at due to the LOOOOONG DMV/DOL delays from covid closures. And those tires don't look like anything more than a generic MT so most officers wouldn't even know the difference.
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FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
This is what I suspected of that arm, but wanted a confirmation. Thanks for the info!
The rest of the front lift came in today. Lifted it this morning pretty quickly. Pretty sure camber is set to 0 on both sides and it’s sweet now.
The rear lift was stupidly easy. I disconnected the parking brake cable holders on the control arms, took out the lower shock bolts, and used the tires like a preacher curl and curled the springs in.
This thing however only has two speeds. Slow, crawl...or balls out full throttle. I’m going to wreck this thing for sure!
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Ok guys, I got an issue now and I’ve got a feeling a replacement part will be unobtanium.
This has been smelling like burning antifreeze. Thought it was the heater core, but no leaks, good heat, no fogging windows, nothing.
Thought maybe the head gasket. Nope.
It’s the pipe that runs out of the back of the water pump into the block and stuff. It is rusty as hell. Confirmed tonight it is leaking badly!
I’ve been looking for this part, have no idea what it’s called or where to find it. Thinking some plumbing stuff from the hardware store is in order to fix it.
This has been smelling like burning antifreeze. Thought it was the heater core, but no leaks, good heat, no fogging windows, nothing.
Thought maybe the head gasket. Nope.
It’s the pipe that runs out of the back of the water pump into the block and stuff. It is rusty as hell. Confirmed tonight it is leaking badly!
I’ve been looking for this part, have no idea what it’s called or where to find it. Thinking some plumbing stuff from the hardware store is in order to fix it.