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1991 Snow Tracker Build

For that pipe, can you cut off the middle, and leave enough metal on each end as a hose barb to just run a hose instead? I don’t remember that coolant pipe
 
JR4X said:
For that pipe, can you cut off the middle, and leave enough metal on each end as a hose barb to just run a hose instead? I don’t remember that coolant pipe
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I’ll have to look, but I’m not sure. It’s hard to see and is under the manifold, so also impossible to get to without pulling everything off.
 
Here’s that pipe. I might he able to cut it and just T off where I need. Not sure if any of this can be deleted or re-routed.

I’ll definitely have to pull off everything above it. Good time to seal up everything with new gaskets I guess.

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I Roadkilled this today. Got my hands in there and put nice new stainless clamps on those hoses. The hoses need replaced, but I’ll get it to whenever. :laughing:

The steel felt pretty solid, and I really hope it never bursts, because I can’t find a new one anywhere!
 
The idle is effected by the iac, the iac on a 89' to 91' is adjusted under the little cover with 3 screws on the front passenger side of the throttle body. This adjustment is called a "wax pellet adjustment" lots of stuff out there on it. I have mine adjusted so it idles around 1100 rpm which is perfect for me when slow rolling trails. Have gasket material ready, the gasket behind the 3 screw cover is important and will be crap when you get to it, you will be in and out of there a few times. When it starts surging on you play with the tps and the iac till it's right.
Post 91' the throttle body needs to be set up with a meter.
The water pump tube is available and so is the o ring.
Relocated your radiator bottle to the passenger side to make room for p/s stuff.
Suzuki's are notorious for using the clutch cable as a ground, need a good ground between block and frame, need a good clean ground battery to firewall
 
crisbee1 said:
The idle is effected by the iac, the iac on a 89' to 91' is adjusted under the little cover with 3 screws on the front passenger side of the throttle body. This adjustment is called a "wax pellet adjustment" lots of stuff out there on it. I have mine adjusted so it idles around 1100 rpm which is perfect for me when slow rolling trails. Have gasket material ready, the gasket behind the 3 screw cover is important and will be crap when you get to it, you will be in and out of there a few times. When it starts surging on you play with the tps and the iac till it's right.
Post 91' the throttle body needs to be set up with a meter.
The water pump tube is available and so is the o ring.
Relocated your radiator bottle to the passenger side to make room for p/s stuff.
Suzuki's are notorious for using the clutch cable as a ground, need a good ground between block and frame, need a good clean ground battery to firewall
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Thanks!

Currently it idles around 1,700 RPM’s which seems high, but when I drop it into gear it’s around 500-750 RPM’s so it’s not too bad now.

Do you have a source for that water pump pipe? I haven’t seen any anywhere.

Well, looks like I’ll have fun figuring out this idle stuff.

I actually might not swap in power steering. It’s not too bad turning with these 30’s.
 
pipe, water inlet Suzuki p/n 17550 comes up for me fitting both the 1.3 and 1.6. I would check water pump p/n's to see if possibly the same. I have not been down that rabbit hole.
 
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crisbee1 said:
pipe, water inlet Suzuki p/n 17550 comes up for me fitting both the 1.3 and 1.6. I would check water pump p/n's to see if possibly the same. I have not been down that rabbit hole.
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I found ONE that looks like the one I have. I’m not sure the ones with the nipples sticking out of the back will work/fit. Pretty close to the starter and every other thing under that manifold.
 
I replaced the heater core hoses and the hose that runs to the throttle body. Enough room to work under the intake, but I look like a cat tore me up meow. :laughing:

Did an alignment, drives much better. Kind of debating on getting it done at a shop to see how it really drives with these tires.

HOPEFULLY we get one more big snowstorm this year.

Wife has me painting the oldest kid’s bedroom for his birthday, but I’m hoping to get out and explore in this thing Saturday or Sunday.
 
Heading to break this things cherry in some mud and dirt. Alternator came loose five minutes from hone. Broke the bolt and had to Roadkill it with a bolt. Will just check it all night. Should be fun...beer, hot engines with tiny tools, what could go wrong? :flipoff2:
 
Well, this thing was the under dog. Rode with a bunch of SXS’s and they all dogged on me for taking it. It went everywhere and is an absolute BEAST in 4lo! Only got stuck once, on the frame rails. This was the topic of conversation at least once on every stop. :laughing:

Not having power steering fawking sucks! But, driving a full size vehicle and a manula off road was so much more fun than the SXS.

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FleshEater said:
So, Tracker reeked like musty, moldy shit today. Checked the carpet and it was soaked. Said fuck it and pulled it all. Found one hole in the back.

Looks like I caught it at the right time.
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Bumping these pics again. Now that the metal is exposed, the surface rust is getting worse. You guys think something like Rustoleum rusty metal primer and a top coat sprayed on would hold up well? Maybe top it with a spray on bed liner or just regular paint?

Well the pics didn’t transfer.

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Well, I still haven’t painted the floor. I actually squeezed this into my 16x16 shed with my SXS to keep it out of the rain.

Tonight I drug home a parts car. Going to start pulling stuff off and get the power steering out. Thinking taking the fenders off might make it easier. This thing is so rusted. Really hope that steering shaft comes off. Soaked everything down in Sea Foam Deep Creep tonight.
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I finally tore the A/C condenser and fan out of the front. The lower part of the condenser
fell apart, so it made it ten times harder than it should have been.

This thing starts and runs like a brand new car. However, after landing on the exhaust and basically smashing a hole in the cat, it sounds like a POS.

So I took it town for gas and decided to paint some super high tech graphics on the back. Behold.

No people might not get so impatient when I top a hill at 25 mph. :flipoff2::laughing:
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Well, can’t get her to start now. I’ve been researching to see if this has a starter relay, but I don’t think it does. All the fuses I checked looked good.

Fuel pump is priming.

Battery is charged.

There is nothing when I turn the key, but I have power every where.

Going to have to pull the cables off the starter and clean them all up, and if that doesn’t work start chasing down wires, fuses, and other relays. Ugh.
 
My issue turned out to be nothing. I think it just needed to run. After chasing down everything and all my diagnostics came up okay I said fuck it and pushed it down the hill, jumped it with the clutch and took it for a drive. Been driving her once or twice a week to keep her happy. She’s a temperamental old bitch.

So, I bought that green turd right around the time I caught COVID. Shortly after bringing it home I saw a rat run out of it towards my wife’s Tahoe and said fuck this. I sold it and made a $500 profit on it.

After seeing Brecklin’s thread about overheating the factory P/S system I decided I’m just going to collect aftermarket parts to put in a better P/S system.

First issues to deal with are replacing the driver’s side axle, dropping the oil pan and third member in the front and SEALING them up so I feel safer dunking them in water. After that I really need to do a timing belt/tensioner and water pump job and seal that up as well.

If we are going to take this to WV I also need the 3:1 gears in the TC and a snorkel set up. Since money spending is questionable right now I’ll be grabbing pieces one at a time.
 
Anyone know how to make these factory headlights brighter? Just bought some new bulbs and they’re just DIM.

I’m going to assume that it will require some custom wiring, I just need pointed in the right direction.
 
FleshEater said:
Anyone know how to make these factory headlights brighter? Just bought some new bulbs and they’re just DIM.

I’m going to assume that it will require some custom wiring, I just need pointed in the right direction.
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I'm not sure if it's the issue on these specifically, but some vehicles end up dropping voltage between the alt and the light. I'd check your voltage at the headlight plug. You can ad a relay to fix it, if that's the issue.

Or just ad some type of aux lights.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'm not sure if it's the issue on these specifically, but some vehicles end up dropping voltage between the alt and the light. I'd check your voltage at the headlight plug. You can ad a relay to fix it, if that's the issue.

Or just ad some type of aux lights.
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I cleaned a couple grounds and swapped a light from Little Red to the Snow Tracker. That helped a little.

The adjusting screws for my lights are all stripped, so hopefully I can track down replacements.

Probably just going to get a small light bar for up front. I can get Rigid lights for a good price, so might as well. Need to get this ready for some night riding in snow storms. :smokin:
 
FleshEater said:
Anyone know how to make these factory headlights brighter? Just bought some new bulbs and they’re just DIM.

I’m going to assume that it will require some custom wiring, I just need pointed in the right direction.
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Google whiter whites and brighter brights for how to add relays to a headlight circuit. It's for old square ford's, but the principles are sound.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
If you want light for snow, get lights that can take the clip on amber lenses. Bright white led's suck in snow storms.
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That's correct. Amber fog lights, especially with a low cut-off for less reflection is so much easier on the eyes.
 
Squamch said:
Google whiter whites and brighter brights for how to add relays to a headlight circuit. It's for old square ford's, but the principles are sound.
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I think I used that for my 84’ Bronco. I think Ford took the power to the switch, then to each headlight? I don’t know, it’s been awhile.

I’ll trace wires and see where everything is at.
 
I seem to recall the 1st gen kick headlights switch on the ground side. Make sure to check that before doing the relays.
 
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