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1984 Ford Bronco

Go around the front, grab a set of 3/8" tubing benders, or if your careful put a piece of 1.5" tubing/pipe in a vise and you can hand form it.
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FleshEater said:
Around the back? Any tricks or tools to make nice bends in this fuel line without kinking it?
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Around the back would look cleaner. Around the front maybe easier. Avoid hot parts so you don't get vapor lock. Tubing bender, flaring tool and patience.
 
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If you route it around the front I'd do it like the white line.
if you route it around the back I'd do it like the red line but use a 90° elbow right on top of the fuel pump. This is a design fail on Ford there is no good way to get that fuel line to the carburetor.
this is not mine it's a random internet picture.
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Moving it really only cleans it up. I’ll work on that after I get the other 150 things done first. :laughing:
 
4RunnerGuy said:
Where did you get those gauges from? I’d like to try those in my ‘93.
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Summit Racing.

I need to order the tach still. I bought a gauge cluster from an 84’ Bronco with a factory tach, but no dice.

Just so you know the fuel gauge is pretty literal. As the fuel sloshes around the tank, the gauge follows.
 
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Bacchus said:
Jesus that's clean. What'd it end up going for?
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$4600 :eek:

1982, v8, C6. Was a non-runner, obvious liquid overhaul, tailgate was trash, top window cracked and passenger window stuck down. I cant believe the worst bronco ever sold for that much.
 
TRINDU said:
$4600 :eek:

1982, v8, C6. Was a non-runner, obvious liquid overhaul, tailgate was trash, top window cracked and passenger window stuck down. I cant believe the worst bronco ever sold for that much.
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These Broncos are selling for a premium now.
 
TRINDU said:
$4600 :eek:

1982, v8, C6. Was a non-runner, obvious liquid overhaul, tailgate was trash, top window cracked and passenger window stuck down. I cant believe the worst bronco ever sold for that much.
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Yup, I'd have gone in at 2000, *maybe* 2500 max and walked away shaking my head. Insane what they're going for now.
 
Bacchus said:
Yup, I'd have gone in at 2000, *maybe* 2500 max and walked away shaking my head. Insane what they're going for now.
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The one I bought sold for $4,500 at a Texas auction. I regret paying $4,500 for this thing. It needs so much work. But, in the rust belt nice old vehicles are so rare at $4,000-$5,000 that I had to jump on it.
 
FleshEater said:
The one I bought sold for $4,500 at a Texas auction. I regret paying $4,500 for this thing. It needs so much work. But, in the rust belt nice old vehicles are so rare at $4,000-$5,000 that I had to jump on it.
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I get it, man. As clean as yours is, and the location you're in, you're gonna have to pay a premium. I don't think you came out bad at all. Old trucks are going to need tinkered with, no matter what.

Down here, rust generally isn't in the equation, so we get to be a little more picky about the other things.
 
I ordered up my exhaust manifold. Still need to order up the intake/exhaust manifold gasket, and oil/filter to get her running again.

Do you all think I should take the time to paint the exhaust manifold AND the intake, or just clean them up and slap them back on? I'll probably swap to a 4BBL set up with headers in the future, but it might be a couple years. Is it worth the effort to paint those two things?
 
WaterH said:
You can always get the exhaust ceramic coated.
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This is true.

I keep going back and forth with this damn thing. When I bought it, I wanted it as a driver, but then sometimes I want to make it really nice. Other times I'm thinking set it up for mild off road stuff...I need to just make a decision and stick to it.
 
Ford guys, I got a question.

Did intake/manifold gasket. Found that the ears on the original intake were cracked. Ordered a new manifold and intake. Used a Remflex gasket, which is apparently the cat’s ass on all the “forums.”

I made sure everything was seated properly. I torqued everything down to 25ft. lbs. and two ears cracked. While I was examining the intake a third cracked! What the hell?

Is there a trick to this? I torqued it down in the order it’s supposed to be. Didn’t tighten down anything else, just had the intake to manifold bolts snugged as well as the exhaust.

Basically said screw it and I’ll run it until it leaks again. Bought the intake off ebay so who knows how shitty the casting is...I’m guessing it’s cheap and from China.

Also, everything I read said these 300’s are known for loosening intake bolts. So I used studs, 2 grade 8 washers, a lock washer, and double nut the studs. Overkill, maybe, but it was loose when I got it.

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Boy, that sucks. I wonder if that gasket was too thick/flexible? When you say you bought it off the bay, was it not OEM? Is someone really making them still?
 
WaterH said:
Boy, that sucks. I wonder if that gasket was too thick/flexible? When you say you bought it off the bay, was it not OEM? Is someone really making them still?
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The gasket might have been the issue. It’s designed to fill up to a 1/16” leak.

It wasn’t OEM. It didn’t say China on it, like the Dorman manifold, but it also didn’t say Ford or Motorcraft. So, someone made it, but I have no idea who.

About the only thing I could’ve done was torqued it to 22 ft. lbs. which is like bare minimum.
 
Your issue is that you used a fat as fuck "fix a problem you shouldn't have" gasket on a straight intake and exhaust. Of course it was easier to snap the tabs than compress the entire surface of the gasket.

Booger weld your intake tabs back on then go pick yourself up a scrap of granite countertop on CL, spray adhesive a belt sander belt onto it and drag your bolted together intake and exhaust combo back and forth on it until you get it so fucking flat you can't get a feeler gauge between it and the granite anywhere. Wire wheel the head so it's completely clean. Install just the end studs in the head (for easy alignment) then coat the manifold in red RTV. Then install it and install the rest of the studs/bolts and bolt it down to spec.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Your issue is that you used a fat as fuck "fix a problem you shouldn't have" gasket on a straight intake and exhaust. Of course it was easier to snap the tabs than compress the entire surface of the gasket.

Booger weld your intake tabs back on then go pick yourself up a scrap of granite countertop on CL, spray adhesive a belt sander belt onto it and drag your bolted together intake and exhaust combo back and forth on it until you get it so fucking flat you can't get a feeler gauge between it and the granite anywhere. Wire wheel the head so it's completely clean. Install just the end studs in the head (for easy alignment) then coat the manifold in red RTV. Then install it and install the rest of the studs/bolts and bolt it down to spec.
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As soft as that gasket is, I didn't think it would cause an issue. Makes sense, though.

I know Ford didn't use a gasket on these when new. I took the square to my head and it was perfectly straight. Would the copper colored intake/manifold RTV suffice? I got a tube of that laying around. Think it's good for 1,400 degrees.
 
FleshEater said:
As soft as that gasket is, I didn't think it would cause an issue. Makes sense, though.

I know Ford didn't use a gasket on these when new. I took the square to my head and it was perfectly straight. Would the copper colored intake/manifold RTV suffice? I got a tube of that laying around. Think it's good for 1,400 degrees.
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The intake probably wouldn't have been an issue if you hadn't torqued it so tight. But then it may have loosened over time. The Harbor Freight (cheapest I can find) red RTV is the only RTV I stock anymore and it works fine on my manifolds and everything else. If it's RTV and it says a big number of degrees on the package I would run it and not worry about it.
 
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