1984 Ford Bronco

[FleshEater]

The intake probably wouldn't have been an issue if you hadn't torqued it so tight. But then it may have loosened over time. The Harbor Freight (cheapest I can find) red RTV is the only RTV I stock anymore and it works fine on my manifolds and everything else. If it's RTV and it says a big number of degrees on the package I would run it and not worry about it.

No one said anything about not using factory torque specs with that POS gasket. It compressed over 50% from when I first did it (my factory intake ears were cracked, which is why I replaced it with a new one). I torqued this down the first round with 20 ft. lbs. then up to 25 ft. lbs.

When I get around to tearing this down again, I'll try your method if the intake turns out decent after welding the tabs back on, and if not, I'll try the Mr. Gasket. I removed a Fel Pro gasket from it that was leaking profusely, so I don't have much faith in those.

 

[arse_sidewards]

No one said anything about not using factory torque specs with that POS gasket. It compressed over 50% from when I first did it (my factory intake ears were cracked, which is why I replaced it with a new one). I torqued this down the first round with 20 ft. lbs. then up to 25 ft. lbs.

When I get around to tearing this down again, I'll try your method if the intake turns out decent after welding the tabs back on, and if not, I'll try the Mr. Gasket. I removed a Fel Pro gasket from it that was leaking profusely, so I don't have much faith in those.

I bet you could get away with using factory specs if the manifolds were warped to shit and not trying to compress the whole gasket.

 

[WaterH]

Your issue is that you used a fat as fuck "fix a problem you shouldn't have" gasket on a straight intake and exhaust. Of course it was easier to snap the tabs than compress the entire surface of the gasket.

Booger weld your intake tabs back on then go pick yourself up a scrap of granite countertop on CL, spray adhesive a belt sander belt onto it and drag your bolted together intake and exhaust combo back and forth on it until you get it so fucking flat you can't get a feeler gauge between it and the granite anywhere. Wire wheel the head so it's completely clean. Install just the end studs in the head (for easy alignment) then coat the manifold in red RTV. Then install it and install the rest of the studs/bolts and bolt it down to spec.

I would not weld that. Been there, done that and it never works. You can leave it and hope it seals or get another new one. The countertop thing is interesting, but if you think it's not flat, take it to a machine shop.

 

[FleshEater]

I would not weld that. Been there, done that and it never works. You can leave it and hope it seals or get another new one. The countertop thing is interesting, but if you think it's not flat, take it to a machine shop.

Honestly, the factory intake ears were probably cracked for years. The one positive of this Remflex gasket is that it seals up leaks to 1/16". So, while I don't think it will leak, I might have some issues down the road.

Really hoping to have a 4 BBL set up before then.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Honestly, the factory intake ears were probably cracked for years. The one positive of this Remflex gasket is that it seals up leaks to 1/16". So, while I don't think it will leak, I might have some issues down the road.

Really hoping to have a 4 BBL set up before then.

If the cracked one is on there still then by all means run it.

 

[D-Rat]

clean truck and I love the 300. Too bad you don' t have a 4 speed behind it.
Being from AZ, it befuddles me to toss all the AC stuff though, and you must not have smog inspections where you are?

 

[FleshEater]

clean truck and I love the 300. Too bad you don' t have a 4 speed behind it.
Being from AZ, it befuddles me to toss all the AC stuff though, and you must not have smog inspections where you are?

Trust me, I’ve been reading through some ZF5 swaps.

It’s not very hot here in the summer. Not worth getting that old worn out system working again.

No smog here at all.

 

[FleshEater]

Almost got the whole cooling system redone. Also discovered that all of my alternator wires need redone at some point soon. As well as the headlight wiring.

My oldest kid was out in the shop with me on Thanksgiving and I told him what wheels and tires I want for the Bronco. He says, “Buy them now so it looks awesome, and then finish fixing everything.” Putting the cart before the horse, but it would be nice to see what she’ll look like with new meats.

If cooling gets done tomorrow I’ll post pics. Nothing cool or special. But, she runs like a top.

Oh, and all the hoarders. They bought up all the distiller water, which ruined a thorough flush. It’s good enough, but not perfect like I wanted.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Oh, and all the hoarders. They bought up all the distiller water, which ruined a thorough flush. It’s good enough, but not perfect like I wanted.

The fuck do people even use distilled water for other than cooling systems?

 

[CDA 455 II]

The fuck do people even use distilled water for other than cooling systems?

Humidifiers
Airbrushing
CPAP machines

 

[FleshEater]

The fuck do people even use distilled water for other than cooling systems?

I checked the hardware store, Dollar General, and Rite Aid. I wasn’t going into the local Nazi grocery store, but they were probably out, too.

I could have used 10-15 gallons. I did 7, and used the hose in between to really flush it. The thing I made to bypass the rotted, rusted radiator worked freaking awesomely.

 

[FleshEater]

I tore the front of the motor all down today, replaced the water pump, thermostat and housing, radiator, fan clutch, all new hoses. Put it all back together and it started leaking from everywhere as I was refilling it.

Tore it all down again and chucked the paper gaskets and got Permatex. It’s curing for 24 hours, because I do not want to tear that all down again.

Nothing fancy, really. I did cut my fan shroud and mated it up to the non-a/c radiator. Apparently non A/C trucks just for a Caution Fan shroud to protect fingers. This won’t work as well, but better than just a top cover.

Also, I love Fluid Film Black. It’s like a fresh paint job with no worry of prep or anything.

 

[FleshEater]

I was thinking about cutting the closed end off the scrap side of the fan shroud, and attempt to plastic weld the two together. Anyone think it would hold up?

 

[CDA 455 II]

What radiator brand are you using?

 

[FleshEater]

What radiator brand are you using?

I believe Illand Global from Rock Auto. Might be a giant pile of junk...but sure looks better than the one I took out.

 

[WaterH]

Please elaborate on "fluid film". Never heard of it. Is it like WD?

 

[FleshEater]

Please elaborate on "fluid film". Never heard of it. Is it like WD?

No, it’s an undercoating for us unfortunate bastards in the rust belt. I can post a pic of my frame later, but lots of water will wash it off.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Please elaborate on "fluid film". Never heard of it. Is it like WD?

You know the fancy pants gear oil that sticks to everywhere? Like that but thin, waxy and not stinky.

 

[FleshEater]

Please elaborate on "fluid film". Never heard of it. Is it like WD?

Frame.

 

[FleshEater]

I swear this Bronco likes to test my patience.

Filled her with antifreeze after letting the Permatex cure for 24 hours. Still have a SEEP on the top of the water pump.

Screw it. Next time I tear this all down it’s getting a head gasket, so for now.

 

[FleshEater]

I grabbed some wheels and tires off Tire Rack this Black Friday. Got $120 back on 33x10.5R15 tires. Had to do it.

Put them on tonight and I think my oldest kid is now interested in working on the Bronco!

This looks so much better. Went from about 28” tires to 33”.

Also ordered up almost everything to swap in my 9” next week.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Looking awesome!

 

[FleshEater]

Looking awesome!

Thanks man! The wheels and tires kind of enthused me to keep on pushing through all this tedious mechanical part replacement stuff. I like upgrading, but just fixing broken crap sucks.

I found a 9” from a 1986 Bronco with 4.11 gears in New York from Car-Part.com. Guy wanted $450 for just the third member. I’ll run the 3.55’s unless they suck too much for this pavement princess.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Thanks man! The wheels and tires kind of enthused me to keep on pushing through all this tedious mechanical part replacement stuff. I like upgrading, but just fixing broken crap sucks.

I found a 9” from a 1986 Bronco with 4.11 gears in New York from Car-Part.com. Guy wanted $450 for just the third member. I’ll run the 3.55’s unless they suck too much for this pavement princess.

3.55s will be fine. 3.08s are tolerable enough that Ford put a hell of a lot of those in broncos and F150s. Setting up gears is easy enough with the 3rd on the bench that you shouldn't even be considering a complete 3rd.

 

[FleshEater]

3.55s will be fine. 3.08s are tolerable enough that Ford put a hell of a lot of those in broncos and F150s. Setting up gears is easy enough with the 3rd on the bench that you shouldn't even be considering a complete 3rd.

Yeah, I know, but if I found a cheap enough 3rd it’d be worth swapping. I got this whole 9” complete for $200.

Honestly after running the numbers 4.11 would be too low for 33’s on the street anyways. 35’s would be decent. I’m just going to run this as is and see how I like it.

 

[WaterH]

Yeah, I know, but if I found a cheap enough 3rd it’d be worth swapping. I got this whole 9” complete for $200.

Honestly after running the numbers 4.11 would be too low for 33’s on the street anyways. 35’s would be decent. I’m just going to run this as is and see how I like it.

I found in my Broncos that 4.56 was perfect for 35's and 4.88 was good for 38's. So I would think 4.11 would be good for 33's.

edit, definitely 3.73 was terrible for 35's.

 

[FleshEater]

I found in my Broncos that 4.56 was perfect for 35's and 4.88 was good for 38's. So I would think 4.11 would be good for 33's.

edit, definitely 3.73 was terrible for 35's.

Was that with the C6 or the 4 speed overdrive trans (still learning Ford stuff)?

 

[WaterH]

Was that with the C6 or the 4 speed overdrive trans (still learning Ford stuff)?

All three of my Broncos had overdrive. The one I ran 3.73 and 35's had a 302. It couldn't stay in OD if it looked at a hill. (4.56 and 38's, same thing) A 351 or bigger might have done it. (When I got my current 351, I went right to 4.88 and 38's.)

 

[CDA 455 II]

3.55s will be fine.

3.08s are tolerable enough that Ford put a hell of a lot of those in broncos and F150s. Setting up gears is easy enough with the 3rd on the bench that you shouldn't even be considering a complete 3rd.

I'll opine that 3.55s with 33s sucks shit because you lose about 500 RPMs.

I've been driving with that set up for over 10 years.


4.10s with 33s gets you back to about factory-designed RPMs if the Bronco is going to be just a mall-crawler.

IMHO; 4.56s with 33s is a good setup if the Bronco sees any offroading.

A better/best setup with 33s: 4.88s


I'll further opine that 4.10s with factory-installed 31s is far more appropriate, let alone having 33s.

 

[FleshEater]

Yeah, I get all those general rules of thumb, but apparently this I6 is at peak torque around 2,000-2,200 RPM. From what I’ve seen most guys consider redline around 3,500-4,000 RPM. So, with my current set up this is what I can expect for DD duties:

45 mph: 1719 RPM
55 mph: 2100 RPM
70 mph: 2673 RPM

With only 3 gears I’m probably a lot more limited with my gearing options at top speed. I doubt this will see our highways (70mph) ever. But will see 45-55 mph every day. I expect a lot of down shifting at 45 mph.

3.73’s might actually be perfect...