What's new
By:
Filters

1984 Ford Bronco

FleshEater said:
I cut the filler neck hose in half, and cut through a plastic tube, too. Didn't know it was in there. I'm just going to buy fuel line (if I can) to the proper size and skip on buying a $23 filler neck tube hose from Summit.

My hose and even the lock ring on the sending unit all came off very easily, because there was no rust. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

Since I need to replace the filler-neck hose; I'm going to also replace the metal filler neck with the plastic tube.

I don't want to remove the filler-neck hose only to find out the inner plastic tube is destroyed/old; and have to delay the project.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Since I need to replace the filler-neck hose; I'm going to also replace the metal filler neck with the plastic tube.

I don't want to remove the filler-neck hose only to find out the inner plastic tube is destroyed/old; and have to delay the project.
Click to expand...

Where are you even finding that plastic tube? I was just going to leave it out. :laughing:
 
CDA 455 II said:
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/198...uctinfo/30219/


Now that's an interesting point. :beer:



Why is it there to begin with; AND could it function/can I live without it?
Click to expand...

I'm going to guess that it's in there to keep the filler hose from flattening out or kinking and restricting fuel flow. On my dad's blazer we used fuel or farm tank transfer hose it has a steel wire wrapped in it. The blazer hose is straight. You could just put a big spring inside of it like what is meant to be in radiator hoses.
 
I figured it was there to help the flow, like cracking open a breather on a can. No way that plastic tube can stop a kink. It’s almost like a straw.

That part from the graveyard looks like it has rubber hose in it.
 
Last edited:
CDA 455 II said:
/
What would happen to the function of refueling if it's removed?
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you'd have to leave the filler nozzle out of the tank some.

I wonder if 5/16" rubber fuel line can be used. I really don't want to drop $75 on that whole filler neck, since my neck is still in great shape.
 
CDA 455 II said:
/
What would happen to the function of refueling if it's removed?
Click to expand...

I got some results from Google. Basically, it's to help while filling. Found one guy that used a clear hose to fix it. I'm just going to see if 5/16" fuel line will fashion to the top of the filler neck. If not, I'll probably have to order that one off Jeff's Bronco, which will require more f'n around to make it work as it's a newer style.
 
FleshEater said:
I got some results from Google. Basically, it's to help while filling. Found one guy that used a clear hose to fix it. I'm just going to see if 5/16" fuel line will fashion to the top of the filler neck. If not, I'll probably have to order that one off Jeff's Bronco, which will require more f'n around to make it work as it's a newer style.
Click to expand...
Just ordered it and the filler neck hose; fug it...:laughing:
$100 for both parts
$8 sales tax
$19 shipping


I don't want to unbolt/remove the metal section only to find out the inner plastic tube is worn out/destroyed etc, and not have a replacement on hand.

Mr. Murphy does it to me every time! :rolleyes: :laughing: :mad3:


Tried Auto Zone right next to my house; didn't have either part.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Just ordered it and the filler neck hose; fug it...:laughing:
$100 for both parts
$8 sales tax
$19 shipping


I don't want to unbolt/remove the metal section only to find out the inner plastic tube is worn out/destroyed etc, and not have a replacement on hand.

Mr. Murphy does it to me every time! :rolleyes: :laughing: :mad3:


Tried Auto Zone right next to my house; didn't have either part.
Click to expand...

Yours won’t have plastic apparently. The gas goes in a smaller tube and the outside filler neck is the vent.
They changed in like 87’.
I grabbed some 1/2” fuel line from NAPA today for $5. Going to try it first.
 
So, this week I did motor mounts and transmission mount. I appreciate the lack of rust, but someone undercoated this and the frame just hung on to so much dirt. The trans mount was one dirty, pain in the butt job due to all the caked on crud.

Gas tank is still out. I just painted the top and the bottom of the skid plate with an old can of Chassis Saver I had. Going to douse it in Fluid Film before final install, but any and every bit of protection is a plus.

I also got the engine bay cleaned up some and looking like a simple old truck again. Got the new vacuum advance distributor today and coil, but no ICM. Hopefully I get that all wired up before the gas tank parts show up so she’s ready to turn over and adjust the timing ASAP.

Right now, I just want this truck running reliably. Still need a new carb, but got a hook up on an old 1BBL Carter that I can rebuild and use (it’s a non-feedback carb).

Picking up the Ford 9” Saturday. :smokin:

4C8FB3AB-FEDC-444E-B39B-FCB302E3FC07.jpeg


220FB25A-B498-4E8C-9CF9-C4E938207225.jpeg


1BE7A7A7-4543-4DE3-AA2D-00ECDD36EAFA.jpeg
 
FleshEater said:
I'm about 15 minutes from Eau Claire. Ha-ha!

Are you in Pennsylvania?
Click to expand...
I seriously thought of moving there; but after seeing what's there decided not to.

There's no open land or mountain ranges like there is West of the Mississippi.


I live in Idaho for the past 21 years.

I'm originally from Maryland; been out West since '75.
 
CDA 455 II said:
I seriously thought of moving there; but after seeing what's there decided not to.

There's no open land or mountain ranges like there is West of the Mississippi.


I live in Idaho for the past 21 years.

I'm originally from Maryland; been out West since '75.
Click to expand...

Yeah, Pennsylvania sucks. It's awful. I travel for offroading. Everything has gone private, and with lawsuits and now advanced trail cameras, there's no point in even trying to trespass anywhere.

I could definitely move to South Dakota. For sure.
 
On topic...

To get this TTB front end out, is it as simple as dropping the steering from the pitman arm, unbolting shocks, removing the spring keeper, unbolting the radius arms, and sliding it out?

I literally need to replace EVERYTHING on mine. Might be easier laying on the floor.
 
FleshEater said:
On topic...

To get this TTB front end out, is it as simple as dropping the steering from the pitman arm, unbolting shocks, removing the spring keeper, unbolting the radius arms, and sliding it out?

I literally need to replace EVERYTHING on mine. Might be easier laying on the floor.
Click to expand...

I would leave it in the truck unless you intend on replacing U joints, diff seals and all four bushings at the same time.
 
arse_sidewards said:
I would leave it in the truck unless you intend on replacing U joints, diff seals and all four bushings at the same time.
Click to expand...

Yep. All the u-joints up front need replaced, as do all the ball joints. Figured I'd crack the diff open and see how bad it is since there's no drain plug on the stupid thing.

I have a feeling getting it back in is harder than pulling it out.
 
You still need a filler-neck?

Removed my factory original; the damn inner rubber hose looks brand-fuggin'-new! :mad3: :laughing:


I went ahead and installed the new one I bought from Bronco Graveyard:
Axle swap XXXI.jpg
 
CDA 455 II said:
You still need a filler-neck?

Removed my factory original; the damn inner rubber hose looks brand-fuggin'-new! :mad3: :laughing:


I went ahead and installed the new one I bought from Bronco Graveyard:
Click to expand...

Thanks, but my metal part was brand new, too. :laughing:

My parts should be here today from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. Hoping to have the truck running tonight before I call it.

Got a 9" sitting beside it now, needing rebuilt before it goes in.
 
FleshEater said:
Yep. All the u-joints up front need replaced, as do all the ball joints. Figured I'd crack the diff open and see how bad it is since there's no drain plug on the stupid thing.

I have a feeling getting it back in is harder than pulling it out.
Click to expand...

I would install a drain plug. Don't really need to split the diff to do it, but easier to clean the chips while you got it apart.
 
WaterH said:
I would install a drain plug. Don't really need to split the diff to do it, but easier to clean the chips while you got it apart.
Click to expand...

That's what I'll probably do. There's no real easy way to open that front differential on these.
 
I got the DSII ignition done. Adjusted timing. It’s running pretty good now. DEFINITELY need mechanical gauges for water temp and oil pressure. Factory gauges are useless and screw trying to fix them.

Also tried to tidy up some wiring. Could be cleaner, but looks a lot better than it did. Organizing the spark plug wires will take some time to figure out. I just wanted it running.

Did a sloppy, cold air dam thing for the ICM, too.

504EDDE6-6BDA-4F1A-A590-EADFEC9B5ACA.jpeg


535CC876-060A-4C50-9428-843A783AAB94.jpeg


D8403354-5E05-436E-908F-746500102054.jpeg
 
Still tinkering with this. Work has stalled as I’m spending money every week getting the inside of the shop done so I can work in the winter...comfortably.

I did get a new carb, air filter, painted the valve cover and did new gasket. Got it all running after the massive intake leak sealed up and the exhaust manifold hole did the same. Also did new gauges that actually work and discovered this has great oil pressure and doesn’t overheat. Still want to add a tach.

Next is to get a new exhaust manifold and do new gaskets. That “should” get it running reliably. Then I’ll tackle the cooling system. Then the rest.

2C967AAC-B0EC-48F4-A8D0-5232F7450118.jpeg


18E18635-32FB-4776-8048-B217063654B3.jpeg


F02CD33A-81CC-4316-B3E0-83F593992509.jpeg


9997B1A9-2B68-4E59-A629-5B07345EB9F8.jpeg
 
TRINDU said:
Found its twin at auction, need a breeding pair?
Click to expand...

That’d be nice to find a clean parts vehicle or if it’s better shape start on it. Haha!

Next project will be from the 70’s. Still not in love with the 80’s. This will make a good driver, though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh