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1982 Pro Street ElCamino Conquista refresh

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Trust me I've "built" many a credit card rigs in my head, never had the balls to pull the trigger.

I think I'd have to sell something like that and I'm not interested in selling this at this point.
 
Drove to get tacos tonight and to the church a couple times to help setup/take down bingo.

It's really nice to have a bulletproof cooling system, it sits on 170* and doesn't move.
I might try a 180* thermostat but right now I don't really see the need.

If I get some tires I'm gonna road test it :smokin:
I think I have a passenger exhaust leak I need to fix.
 
I'm planning on 1k per tire that mostly can't be driven on the street... :homer:

Price a 42" sticky...
Yeah shit is not really affordable right now.

I'm down with trying the sprint car tires but I'm not really interested in finding they don't like Texas Summer pavement 30 miles from home...
 
I'm planning on 1k per tire that mostly can't be driven on the street... :homer:

Price a 42" sticky...

Do you plan on street driving on them with no plan to use them offroad?

I pay $265 a tire for 26 x 9" sticky Hoosier Bites for my golfcart that don't last for shit so I get the deal with buying expensive purposes built tires.

For what he's doing with the car I suggested he buy 2 Hoosier sprint car RR tires for around $250ish a piece and run those. Seems like a much better option and they are plentiful around here new and used. They have tread as an added bonus.
 
What makes you think ET streets will be any different? They are both bias ply race tires.
Nothing really, just DOT stamp seems like should be "good"
There is a circle racer near me, i'm going to try and make friends.
 
Going home from the cafe last weekend the alternator belt started complaining, loud squealing, 12 volts...

So I had to look at that tonight before driving it up to block the parking lot at the school.

Well the belt was fubar, missing segments and laying sideways in the groove.

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I snugged it up a little then drove it up to O'Reilly's to get a new belt.
Out the gate the voltage is pretty high, over 14 trying to hit 16 as I pulled out of the driveway.
I flipped all the lights on (they're still halogen bulbs) to soak up some extra voltage and left the fan off until later on...

After a few blocks the voltage calmed down while idling at a red light. I flipped the fan on as it was at 180.
Worst case since the belt only runs the alternator I can just cut it off and get back home on the battery.

By the time I got to O'Reilly's the voltage was sitting at 14 steady, I flipped the lights off and it didn't move. Got a new belt and swapped it out in the parking lot, alternator was hot as fuk.

Drove it on up to the school no issues. So I guess I'll be upgrading the alternator sooner than later. This is a old 10Si that a 90 year old dude at a generator shop built in '96 so it's smoke is probably due for letting out.

What's the hotness?
Don't need a 1 wire but I'd like similar mount form factor to use the ICT low electric water pump mount.

Going to swap the belt to a legit horsepower rated belt vs this $9 Master pro rubber band.

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Googling looks like there's a CS130 that's a swap. 130amp should be plenty with this setup.
 
I keep forgetting to ask.... Does the car have a limited slip or spooled rear? I'm assuming it's LS just because you can actually get it to steer with steamrollers out back. :laughing:
 
CS130 is a good one. Always easy to get over the counter. IIRC pretty cheap too
Yeah everything I see says that's what I want.

I'm gonna do some research on specific versions and outputs and get one coming.
 
Not an off the shelf deal but it seems like it might be a better solution for my need.

I might end up with electric power steering so a 160 amp unit might be worthwhile.
I wonder if the single v belt will be a problem at 160 amps? I could switch to a serp belt if needed.



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