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1982 Pro Street ElCamino Conquista refresh

SLOWPOKE693 said:
Bias ply tires tend to do that. Best bet is to park it with a floor jack under the rear axle and keep the tires slightly off the ground when you are not using it.

Looks like it goes pretty good but is it quicker than a 22 F350? :stirthepot:
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Much quicker :flipoff2:

I'd buy a draggy but don't really need one.
Might just use one of the apps to see what it says
 
Finally made it to cars and coffee:flipoff2:

The blue truck is my kind of stupid, built by pro touring Texas.

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CarterKraft said:
Finally made it to cars and coffee:flipoff2:

The blue truck is my kind of stupid, built by pro touring Texas.

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All this fancy shit and they couldn't move the vent fitting not to be in the way of the oil filler cap and put a boot on the alternator lug ?

:flipoff2:
 
This mirror has to get fixed, it falls down with acceleration, it doesn't look to be adjustable with out removing the glass.

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Anyone have any experience with these Aero catch hood pins?

I'm gonna build a chromo frame under my fiberglass hood and put the dzues mounts to that then put two of these Aero catches on the front edge of the hood down to the core support. That will let me hook hinges back up and have a regular opening hood but be able to lift it off easily if needed.



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I'm not a conventional hood pins fan...
I have set of the nicer nylon flanged style hood pins I could use but they are not very slick.

shop.broncograveyard.com

1966-1977 Ford Bronco Polyurethane Hood Pins, Black - Broncograveyard.com

How do we hold those big truck hoods on when off road?br How do we keep our fiberglass hoods from cracking around the mounts?br What looks trick and does the job?br Urethane hood pin kits that's how !br These kits start with a 9/16 center pin machined from steel. ( Most pin kits are 7/16 or...
shop.broncograveyard.com

I thought about using something like dual BMW hood latches and a more conventional hood latch but that's really way to complicated for this and there's already dzeus pins in the hood, so a few more holes doesn't bother me.

I like the aerocatch, they are positive latches with a cross pin through a stud.
My boss put some round pushlock pins on his fox body and they just seem way to janky to be trusted.

www.quik-latch.com

QL-38-Series Hood Pin Kits

Quik-Latch QL-38-Series Mid Sized Hood Pins
www.quik-latch.com
 
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Aftermarket steel hoods if you want it to open like a factory hood. Building a big ass frame under a lift off hood that was never meant to open like that just seems like a waste of time and materials to get something that's either heavy as fuck but works okish or something that's light and works like shit.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Aftermarket steel hoods if you want it to open like a factory hood. Building a big ass frame under a lift off hood that was never meant to open like that just seems like a waste of time and materials to get something that's either heavy as fuck but works okish or something that's light and works like shit.
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3/4" round chromo tubing frame shouldn't be heavy?

Like 6 lbs for the frame plus hood pins.
Definitely not going to be anywhere near as heavy as steel hood.

Was gonna do it in aluminum but I think chromo is better.

Edit: and I don't have any of the OEM latch shit, not even the part of the core support to mount the OEM latch. And when I tube the front frame/core support I won't want to have to deal with having to mount all that either.
 
Careful pulling the mirror apart. Repops are around 125 bucks. IIRC there are like 3 small screws on a retaining tab inside there. And the tab Stretches. Its been a while. Those are the rare Mirrors.
 
ANGRYBLACK said:
Careful pulling the mirror apart. Repops are around 125 bucks. IIRC there are like 3 small screws on a retaining tab inside there. And the tab Stretches. Its been a while. Those are the rare Mirrors.
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Damn, I didn't want to fuck with it just buy a repop probably.

I might put 3d print a lock collar to go on the ball shank and lock it in place.
 
Thinking about this more...
There are 4 dzeus fasteners on the leading edge already. If I just add a frame under the sides and front in a U to allow the sides to hold the hinge pins then the front pins could secure the hood to the car and the sides would keep the hood connected to the frame when opened.

Fuckin duh 🙄
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CarterKraft said:
Anyone have any experience with these Aero catch hood pins?

I'm gonna build a chromo frame under my fiberglass hood and put the dzues mounts to that then put two of these Aero catches on the front edge of the hood down to the core support. That will let me hook hinges back up and have a regular opening hood but be able to lift it off easily if needed.



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My buddy put those on his Lexus drift car, tubework nose, gutted factory steel hood. They worked fine, little finicky sometimes, but I'd wager that was more due to the installer than the latch
 
posford said:
My buddy put those on his Lexus drift car, tubework nose, gutted factory steel hood. They worked fine, little finicky sometimes, but I'd wager that was more due to the installer than the latch
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I really just liked that they were physical shear pin through cross hole.
No ball or gimmicks.

Its embarrassing though thinking about it after the fact, the hood pins are already there :clown:
 
Do you have enough room beside the side zuse fasteners to run your framework around there and then tab off that to those fasteners to hold the hood to the frame?
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
Do you have enough room beside the side zuse fasteners to run your framework around there and then tab off that to those fasteners to hold the hood to the frame?
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Not sure what you mean but I'll try to MS CAD To explain what I am going to do.
The red frame will be on the inside of the buttons but it might be possible to go on the outside (better).
The red frame will hit the OEM hinge pin holes on the fenders, G bodies don't have fancy parallel hood hinges.

The red frame will have the dzues tab/springs welded to it instead of the fenders on the sides but the front 4 tabs will stay and sandwich some tabs on the red frame, I can get longer dzeus buttons or it may not need to sandwich at all.
Either way this should be fairly easy to do and won't be any weaker than it already is and no extra holes in the hood.


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CarterKraft said:
Not sure what you mean but I'll try to MS CAD To explain what I am going to do.
The red frame will be on the inside of the buttons but it might be possible to go on the outside (better).
The red frame will hit the OEM hinge pin holes on the fenders, G bodies don't have fancy parallel hood hinges.

The red frame will have the dzues tab/springs welded to it instead of the fenders on the sides but the front 4 tabs will stay and sandwich some tabs on the red frame, I can get longer dzeus buttons or it may not need to sandwich at all.
Either way this should be fairly easy to do and won't be any weaker than it already is and no extra holes in the hood.


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Yup, that's exactly what I was thinking.
 
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