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1982 Pro Street ElCamino Conquista refresh

These jokers are short!
I hope I come around to em, gonna have to get the drop spindles now for sure

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That was my first clue they are short, lowered the jack and handle just kept going down...

Funny story about suspension setup.

We built the car and my dad and I swore we put the bars at the "starting" point suggested in the manual for the Chris Alston four link.
Raced it for that first year just trying to bracket race but with no trans brake or electronics but giant tires and aftermarket suspension we found we were way "out classed"

Fast forward several years of not racing or driving it really and we decided let's go to the track. So now I'm older and more interested in the "Instant center" and other 4 link tuning so I grab the manual and crawl under it to try and get familiar with the setup.

The bars were NOT in the starting point.
We didn't know why.
I moved them to the correct starting point and we made a pass and I think that was the PB, like a 6.99 @ 109mph but the mph is fuzzy, ET is right. Dropped .2 with just that bar change.
Pulled the wheels on that pass just a hair too.

So you can see we were terrible racers:laughing:
 
CarterKraft said:
I just couldn't, if a tire failed and smoked the wheel and or body I'd forever be pissed.
I pushed my luck pretty good...
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I lack the restraint you have and always do one last John Force style burnout on drag radials. Once one tire has cords showing I order new tires.
I'll sit on linelock in 2nd gear for just 2-3 seconds (which make a shit ton of smoke vs a real slick) and then let it roll until the car reaches tire speed. I coasted to my driveway and saw this...
CgtJ152KWo0KNnYXVdJw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
rattle_snake said:
I lack the restraint you have and always do one last John Force style burnout on drag radials. Once one tire has cords showing I order new tires.
I'll sit on linelock in 2nd gear for just 2-3 seconds (which make a shit ton of smoke vs a real slick) and then let it roll until the car reaches tire speed. I coasted to my driveway and saw this...
CgtJ152KWo0KNnYXVdJw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
Click to expand...

You have a camber problem. :flipoff2:
 
rattle_snake said:
I lack the restraint you have and always do one last John Force style burnout on drag radials. Once one tire has cords showing I order new tires.
I'll sit on linelock in 2nd gear for just 2-3 seconds (which make a shit ton of smoke vs a real slick) and then let it roll until the car reaches tire speed. I coasted to my driveway and saw this...
CgtJ152KWo0KNnYXVdJw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
Click to expand...
I would have loved too but I felt like I got really lucky driving it all over like I had been, it felt like I'd be really pushing my luck...

They also would loose air pressure in a few days and if it goes down there is nothing to protect the rim and the aluminum is soft as hell.
 
yes new set are MT ET street SS. This is the 5th set, they only go 3-4k miles. Old were Nitto 555RII that delaminated in the 'one last' burnout.
 
Pulled the 2.5 power valve and put the original 5.5? In it.
That seemed to help with the off idle tip in lean bog but might make it drop idle too low in decel transition to idle, not really sure.

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New tires are a little suspect. Crazy flat spot vibration at cruise, like bad enough to blur my vision...
I had them balanced at the tire shop so?
I did leave it sitting on the tires for a week at 10 psi, aired them up to 15 psi for the drive, no idea what's correct.

But I noticed back when the alternator fucked off a surge at WFO.

It's like a light switch on/off/on etc.
I thought maybe it was over voting and the Digital 6 ignition was turning off but that's corrected now, solid 14v.

I did put those new needle and seats in so maybe the float levels are low, would that do it? I set them but maybe I need to recheck.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
You should be running a 6.5 power valve if it's got any kind of lumpy cam.
Click to expand...
I have a 6.5 I could put in there.

Whatever is wrong happened after I got it running.

I've made planty of WFO hits and it didn't do this.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
What pumps and cams are you running front and rear, 50cc?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure, are those the really thick pump housings?

I'll get some pix. The cams are either red or orange, pretty red looking though.

The tip in lean bog wasn't there until I tried to "de-tune" it 🤦
I dropped jets and PV which obviously was a mistake now I understand what it actually does.

I'm not ruling out a wideband for the carb setup.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
50.30.jpeg
Click to expand...
Thanks for the pic, i'd say the front at least is the thinner but maybe not. I will get some pix and measure.
I don't think that is related to this ON/OFF/ON/OFF... surge, this is well past transition and fully on the main.
Most logical cause thinking about it after the fact is low float level. There is 6 psi on the fuel regulator output port.
This is almost like you cycling the ignition switch on/off, I didn't notice anything weird from the light on the digital 6 (I can see it from the drivers seat).
 
CarterKraft said:
Thanks for the pic, i'd say the front at least is the thinner but maybe not. I will get some pix and measure.
I don't think that is related to this ON/OFF/ON/OFF... surge, this is well past transition and fully on the main.
Most logical cause thinking about it after the fact is low float level. There is 6 psi on the fuel regulator output port.
This is almost like you cycling the ignition switch on/off, I didn't notice anything weird from the light on the digital 6 (I can see it from the drivers seat).
Click to expand...
I'd agree, sounds like float/running out of fuel? Def start with basics
 
I've always ran 7.5-8psi of fuel pressure to a carb.

Looks like you have a 30cc front pump and a 50cc rear pump best I can tell.

On/off/on surge could be the power valve opening and closing because of manifold vacume.
 
The power valve alone didn't cause or fix this problem.

It wasn't there when I first got it running, I could whack the throttle and as long as I got over the lean bog it would rip.

At some point between fucking with the needle/seats and fuel levels, possibly alternator issues this happened.

Power valve is back to pre me fuckin with it, it's still lean on main jet but that doesn't seem related.

If I get it out this weekend I'll re-checkbthe float levels before doing anything else.
 
Set float heights, they were waaayy low.

Tires still had pressure
:smokin:

Boy wanted to go ride around so we saddled up and cruised over to a buddies who wasn't there. We left and boy said "let it eat" :lmao:

Pulls like a mofo through 3rd.
Need to find some dudes around here that want to take a L from a Conquista :laughing:
Filmed on iOS potato

 
And the passenger header bolts were about falling out so that fixed the wicked exhaust leak.

And I kept it sitting on Jack stands for the last few weeks and the vibration wasn't anywhere near what it was before, so maybe I need to keep it jacked up between drives, that kind of sucks
 
CarterKraft said:
And the passenger header bolts were about falling out so that fixed the wicked exhaust leak.

And I kept it sitting on Jack stands for the last few weeks and the vibration wasn't anywhere near what it was before, so maybe I need to keep it jacked up between drives, that kind of sucks
Click to expand...
Bias ply ties doing bias ply ties things?
 
Bias ply tires tend to do that. Best bet is to park it with a floor jack under the rear axle and keep the tires slightly off the ground when you are not using it.

Looks like it goes pretty good but is it quicker than a 22 F350? :stirthepot:
 
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