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1981 Pickup Build - Old Yeller

Do they go back to normal once you're back to flat-ish ground?

You'd think if you are somehow introducing air on the slope, say by the resivoir being too low, it would be shit after also.

You're definitely not the first person to have these issues. It seemed super hit and miss on all my buddy’s who's brakes worked fine and who's sucked.
 
I had a buddy with similar problem and best he could work out it was because his master cylinder had the main port for fluid from reservoir ahead of the reservoir, so on steep incline all the fluid would be behind the port. He switched to a remote reservoir style and put the reservoir on a mount with few degrees of front to back swing to it and it solved it. His was originally the GM flat plastic style reservoir though so shallow and long.

Side note I never thought I would have to type reservoir so many times in one post.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Do they go back to normal once you're back to flat-ish ground?

You'd think if you are somehow introducing air on the slope, say by the resivoir being too low, it would be shit after also.

You're definitely not the first person to have these issues. It seemed super hit and miss on all my buddy’s who's brakes worked fine and who's sucked.
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They went to kinda shitty after but not horrible, introducing air to the system is what's happening most likely like you said, the resivoir is probably at such an angle it opens it up for air to get in
 
350TacoZilla said:
I had a buddy with similar problem and best he could work out it was because his master cylinder had the main port for fluid from reservoir ahead of the reservoir, so on steep incline all the fluid would be behind the port. He switched to a remote reservoir style and put the reservoir on a mount with few degrees of front to back swing to it and it solved it. His was originally the GM flat plastic style reservoir though so shallow and long.

Side note I never thought I would have to type reservoir so many times in one post.
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That's what's probably happening to mine, any info on a remote resivoir deal for these trucks? I'll do some sirchin as well in the meantime

That was also a hefty amount of resivoirs in one post
 
I think his was just a off the shelf universal remote reservoir from summit racing. Was plastic with screw on cap on top and barb fitting on bottom, small mount in between lol. I can't remember if he modded the existing master to adapt it or if he replaced it with one setup for the remote mount.
 
KOH 2022 was a blast like usual :beer::beer: dusty as fuck this year, driving through hammer town with no windshield is great, 10/10 do recommend.

Ran a few trails earlier in the week, then off course trails the rest of the week. turkey at night was a shit show like usual, as with chocolate

Didn't really get shit for pictures, to busy doing bad things with some good people :flipoff2:

Classic Mailbox pic
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Sun Bonnet
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Beginning of Jack North
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I've always preferred no windshield out in the desert. Sucks to follow someone but the dust swirls in no matter what. At least if you don't have a windshield the times you do have clean air, you aren't getting a passive dust tornado inside the cab. :laughing:

Riding goggles are obviously mandatory, if you don't have a pair, you must live punishment :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I've always preferred no windshield out in the desert. Sucks to follow someone but the dust swirls in no matter what. At least if you don't have a windshield the times you do have clean air, you aren't getting a passive dust tornado inside the cab. :laughing:

Riding goggles are obviously mandatory, if you don't have a pair, you must live punishment :flipoff2:
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Yeah its really not that bad, there's no dust up in the rocks so the visibility is nice! Driving through the lake bed that 100,000+ other people are camped on and driving around on making dust without a sealed cab makes for a brutal morning blowing dust out my nose :lmao:

I spend all my time and money on a truck that I keep breaking, loving punishment is an understatement :flipoff2:
 
Last time I went to KOH, it was a zero wind year. Kinda sucked, dust was just sitting there, never thought I'd miss wind at JV:laughing:
 
As usual, breaking more shit in the riverbed behind my house :homer:

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Driver side stock shaft. I knew this one had to be twisted from a few trips ago, wasnt suprised to see it when pulled
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Passenger side Chromo shaft twisted as well, this one was a suprised to see twisted, not sure when that could have happened. Im sure one of the last JV trips did her in though. Aren't chromo shafts supposed to snap, not twist? Lol
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Grronk said:
As usual, breaking more shit in the riverbed behind my house :homer:

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Driver side stock shaft. I knew this one had to be twisted from a few trips ago, wasnt suprised to see it when pulled
Screenshot_20220222-074320_Gallery.jpg


Passenger side Chromo shaft twisted as well, this one was a suprised to see twisted, not sure when that could have happened. Im sure one of the last JV trips did her in though. Aren't chromo shafts supposed to snap, not twist? Lol
Screenshot_20220222-074346_Gallery.jpg
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and this was the exact reason i went to tons, i could not take breaking toyota stuff any longer, my fault alot because i wanted bigger tires, i wheel with bigger rigs.

as far as 717 and high range yep i can do it, first time in like 5 years my truck saw high range

brakes go with 1976 chevy blazer MC and dont look back, i have all the stopping power needed, i too had the same drama with brakes, bleeds fine, stops fine level but on inclines and awkward spots not much brakes.
 
Get rid of the spool, they're junk for Toyotas. They deflect and bend easy.

You running 5.29s?

I think Toyotas can be built to last, but if you want a beat down rig. Just go tons asap because it will be cheaper.

Don't be afraid to build a front axle. A dodge D60 rears are cheap.

Or for about $1300 you could have a 9" housing and bare 3rd. Then add your SD C's. Lockers and gears are the same price or less than a D60 and they make 7.16s or something super close. That would make it easy to keep your suspension unmodified if that's a priority. Or you can build it for stock length axles to save money.
 

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Probably the best case you can buy

3.250" Iron Load Bolt Case - Gearworks Inc.

Budget

JEGS 60653: Ford 9 in. Center Section [Nodular Iron] - JEGS High Performance

www.summitracing.com

Motive Gear F890716AX Motive Gear AX Series Lightweight Performance Ring and Pinion Sets | Summit Racing

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I think you'd be into that front axle less than a stock SD 60 and atlas 4 spd by a lot and have more clearance. Hp is nice, but you're building it, so you can tip the pinion up.

Plus building axles is kinda fun.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Get rid of the spool, they're junk for Toyotas. They deflect and bend easy.

You running 5.29s?

I think Toyotas can be built to last, but if you want a beat down rig. Just go tons asap because it will be cheaper.

Don't be afraid to build a front axle. A dodge D60 rears are cheap.

Or for about $1300 you could have a 9" housing and bare 3rd. Then add your SD C's. Lockers and gears are the same price or less than a D60 and they make 7.16s or something super close. That would make it easy to keep your suspension unmodified if that's a priority. Or you can build it for stock length axles to save money.
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So I've been looking more into the 9" housing with 60 C's, the trailgear housing is 3 1/2" OD and my SD60 axle tube is 3 3/4" OD. I searched but couldn't find much, obviously the SD60 Cs I have would be too large for the 3 1/2" 9" housing. Is there a proper way to adapt the two together? I saw people leaving the SD tube in the knuckle and boring it out to 3 1/2" (probably not doable for me), would sleeving the 3 1/2" axle tube with .25" wall 3 3/4" OD tubing welded all areound work? That seems a bit thin and janky for a sleeve

I could also just use these C's Ultimate Dana 60 Inner Knuckle paired with the rest of the SD60 parts correct? (edit: yeah after more reading it looks like I can just use these Cs and not need to chop up the SD Dana 60 to get the Cs off)

I do like the idea of a 9" up front, especially the removable case
 
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If you have the cash upfront for new C's I would get them and then you have a complete D60 to sell or use in another build VS a pile of parts after cutting it up.
 
Grronk said:
So I've been looking more into the 9" housing with 60 C's, the trailgear housing is 3 1/2" OD and my SD60 axle tube is 3 3/4" OD. I searched but couldn't find much, obviously the SD60 Cs I have would be too large for the 3 1/2" 9" housing. Is there a proper way to adapt the two together? I saw people leaving the SD tube in the knuckle and boring it out to 3 1/2" (probably not doable for me), would sleeving the 3 1/2" axle tube with .25" wall 3 3/4" OD tubing welded all areound work? That seems a bit thin and janky for a sleeve

I could also just use these C's Ultimate Dana 60 Inner Knuckle paired with the rest of the SD60 parts correct? (edit: yeah after more reading it looks like I can just use these Cs and not need to chop up the SD Dana 60 to get the Cs off)

I do like the idea of a 9" up front, especially the removable case
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I just found those as well, not a bad price for someome who doesn't have the capability to easily remove the stock C's.

Do eeeet! :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Do eeeet! :flipoff2:
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Those C's have a 3 month back order wait, hoping its faster than that cause I placed an order :flipoff2:

After reading threads here and on the old place I'm leaning way more towards the 7.17 + 7.16's and the 609 than any other plan I had for the tons and pickup.
 
You'll love it. Use able high range and probably never break tcase parts.

I think it was Adamwende who said someone in his group will break 35 spline chromo axles before they break their little Sami tcase with 7.17s.:laughing:
 
Update: Dana 70 progress, disc brake conversion and diff armor from RuffStuff. Just ordered the spool, 7.17s, and set up kit as well.
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Also got the Rock Assault 9" in, thought there would be a lead time on the housing Luke the 3 month wait for the inner C's so I ordered it and it showed up in 4 days :lmao: planning on completing the Dana 70 before diving into the 609 build. If anyone has tips on measuring where to cut the tubes feel free to share them, I think I have a good idea on how to measure them but want to know if there's an easier way. I was going to use a Ford 9" axle shaft Guage/dog bone measuring bracket with a combo of measuring the Dana 60 shafts to see where the inner C's should be. Sound proper or sound off?

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so dana 70 with 7.17 and front 609 with 7.16

this is something i have not thought of...... my biggest complaint with tons if i smash the diff all the time, but a 609 i would gain inches of clearance...... thats a real good idea bud.... well done.. :beer::beer::beer::beer:
 
one issue i had with spool on the rear with 717, and it may not be from 717 specifically was my axle flange bolts would loosen up all the time, like every morning i would have gear oil in the rim and i would have to jack up the rear and tighten each one. but after installing these bad boys, holly cow no drama at all.

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chaplinfj60 said:
one issue i had with spool on the rear with 717, and it may not be from 717 specifically was my axle flange bolts would loosen up all the time, like every morning i would have gear oil in the rim and i would have to jack up the rear and tighten each one. but after installing these bad boys, holly cow no drama at all.

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Got a link for those bad boys?? I may as well start out right with them lol
 
www.stage8.com

Off Road Axle/Flange Kits

Visit the post for more.
www.stage8.com www.stage8.com

they also sell on amazon and other places too, not sure if axle flange is different from 70 to 60 or 14 bolt. mine is dana 60 with 35 spline. i think dana 70 is the same. and you have to buy two kits, one kit only does one side. i am did the stage 8 front axle too wicked awesome.
 
Those flange bolt retainers are sweet! I'm a huge fan of retainers or safety wire everywhere possible.

And DAMN, I'm jealous of the 7.17 gears...
 
chaplinfj60 said:
so how much clearance do you gain with a 609 vice dana 60?
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Thanks for the link :beer:

I went with the 9" housing to be able to run the lower gears, so clearance never came to mind until now, looking at numbers from the other place from axle centerline down to the lowest part of the housing:

Dana 60: 6.75"
Ford 9in: 5.50"

So looks like I am getting 1.25" of extra clearance if i did that right, thats is also with a stock 9" housing so I am not sure what the TG housing measures off hand
 
were you able to get a 35 spline ford nine inch, i only dove down this rabbit hole atiny bit and lost intrest when everything i found was 31 max spline. but i know they got to make more but i never saw
 
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