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1981 Pickup Build - Old Yeller

Fairly uncommon for that to happen though. My regular wheeling group are full body rigs on 40s with toy axles and they've yet to break a trunion.
i really abused my toyota trunnions and only had one issue and that was i hit a tree with the center of the tire and sheered the high steer arm off. but not sure you can count that as total failure because that was a brutal hit
 
Fairly uncommon for that to happen though. My regular wheeling group are full body rigs on 40s with toy axles and they've yet to break a trunion.

Not the point, did you look at the post where he did exactly that? :homer:

Also, are you positive they all are running stock sized pins and not a trunion eliminator or 25mm marlin set up?
 
Not the point, did you look at the post where he did exactly that? :homer:

Also, are you positive they all are running stock sized pins and not a trunion eliminator or 25mm marlin set up?

It is the point. If the studs loosened up, then it's way easier to snap that pin even with just steering forces. I've seen the trunion bearings blow up, even had that happen to me, but I've never seen a pin shear like that. I know it happens, just not often.

Yes, I am sure the guys I'm running with are not using trunion eliminators nor 25mm pins. I helped build (or rebuild) most of their axles.
 
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Best dog gone yota in the west.... old yeller. Hey hey yeller.

:flipoff2:

Looking good man!
 
Also, not sure if this was the cause, or another result of the pin shearing. Cracked trunnion bearing race
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Hard to know if it's the cause or effect, but that bearing race looks like it was ready to be replaced anyway. Bet it was a little crunchy turning.
 
Busy weekend. Got the old 22R pulled, carb manifold off and swapped to the new 22R, then got it bolted in the truck. One coolant line on the old motor was too rusted out to reuse and the 22RE line didn't have the little 3rd port that I needed so I had to do a little welding and drilling to make it work. Also found a crack on my steering box mount that needed welding.

Old and dirty 22R
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Pulled
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Introducing it to its replacement
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Alt, Dist. and PS pump on
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Exhaust wrapped and bolted on. First time wrapping a manifold, didn't buy the correct metal clamps so I improvised, super ghetto but :flipoff2:
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Gave the bay a wash down and spray paint bombed it
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Crack, it was ground too thin originally, welded it up and only ground it down slightly to fit the box
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Coolant line mod
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Move in day
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In its new home
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Still need to plug everything in, fill up all fluids, get the fittings for the PSC pump to toyota box, and replace a tie rod end that I found was bad. Leaving for a week for work so it will sit for a little bit while shit ships to the shop.
 
Old Yella lives again! Motor started up first try, well first try after 10 different trys cause I missed wire that I tucked away when painting the engine bay :homer: Gave it one last valve adjustment and timed it proper and now she purrs like a big rusty kitten.

I also switched back to a Toyota radiator, specifically the LCE "HD Radiator Modified" since I punched a gaper in the other one with a road sign and it was a 1/3 JB weld at this point. This allowed me to run a bigger fan instead of the shitty $50 one off amazon that I have been running. Thinking this will fix all over heating issues I get when romping in sand, hopefully.

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Wrote up a nice post but then deleted it on accident cause im a retard or something :homer: so this ones gonna be short and just pics:flipoff2:

Thanksgiving 2021 in Johnson Valley, new motor did good, no issues besides breaking an old alt belt

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Damn you Californians! Why does some of the coolest wheeling spots have to be under the thumb of the nuttiness human beings ?:flipoff2:

Looks like a lot of fun!
 
Back from JV, we broke stuff lol

Ran Turkeyclaw, Resolution, Jack North, Sun Bonnet Pass, Hwy 19 and 20, and Tack Hammer. Tack Hammer did me dirty the first night there, was letting the :beer: drive and got into a dumb undercut spot on my driver rear and ended up snapping my rear output shaft, which led to snapping a tie rod end while pulling it out. Easiest trail out there got me :homer:

Got lucky cause we brought out a whole spare transfer case, but it was a forward shift case so we had to split both cases to mix parts to get them to work. Got the truck back up and running and continued to beat on it the rest of the trip with no issues. Well, except for losing my brakes on chocolate thunder, need to re bleed them cause I lose them when im very vertical for some reason?

Now im playing around with the idea of putting the tons I have in the shop under the truck with an atlas. This truck is decently heavy for what it is, but I want to keep its full body and bed, which the Toy axles and case + my driving style don't agree with. The tons are wide and I'll lose the skinny wheel base that I like with the yota axles though.

Pics

New Paper weight
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Tailgate work shop
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My shitty tranny tunnel hole comes in handy
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Mailbox

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Hill before Resolution
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Sunbonnet (I think)
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Top of Sunbonnet
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One of the Hwys
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You know that if you go to tons you'll want bigger tires for diff clearance. Then you'll just break more shit. :flipoff2:

What's your end goal for tire size on the rig? Build backwards from that. If it's 37s just beef up the Yota axles if you need to, and maybe beef the Yota cases or swap to an Atlas. But with an Atlas your failure point just would have been somewhere else...
 
He broke a xfer case, not the axle, lol.

As for brakes getting soft on steep inclines, my truck does the same thing, which is interesting because my setup is very different. Can't figure out why. Bleeds fine.
 
You know that if you go to tons you'll want bigger tires for diff clearance. Then you'll just break more shit. :flipoff2:

What's your end goal for tire size on the rig? Build backwards from that. If it's 37s just beef up the Yota axles if you need to, and maybe beef the Yota cases or swap to an Atlas. But with an Atlas your failure point just would have been somewhere else...
I would go up to 40s or 42s for the tons, 37s were it for the Toyota axles but those wont work on the tons cause of diff clearance like you said. My Toy axles are pretty much as beefed up as possible, beefing up the transfer case would be next.

Like I said, im just playing around with the idea, maybe I'll just rebuild the busted case with a chromo output shaft and swap it back in and see if that helps. But that's just more $$ dumped into Toyota stuff, so no biggy right:flipoff2:

I would hope that with an atlas and tons the weak point would be the u joints, but I also hoped that for this current setup lol
 
If you want 1 ton strength but not 1 ton width why not narrow the axles before install? I don't know what axles you have laying in the garage but you can mix and match stock length shafts to end up with a narrowed D60, not exactly sure how narrow you can get off hand. Rear C&C 14B shaved with disc conversion is around 64" WMS if I remember correctly.
 
If you want 1 ton strength but not 1 ton width why not narrow the axles before install? I don't know what axles you have laying in the garage but you can mix and match stock length shafts to end up with a narrowed D60, not exactly sure how narrow you can get off hand. Rear C&C 14B shaved with disc conversion is around 64" WMS if I remember correctly.
I've got a 05+ Superduty Dana 60 and a Dan 70U
 
I would go up to 40s or 42s for the tons, 37s were it for the Toyota axles but those wont work on the tons cause of diff clearance like you said. My Toy axles are pretty much as beefed up as possible, beefing up the transfer case would be next.

Like I said, im just playing around with the idea, maybe I'll just rebuild the busted case with a chromo output shaft and swap it back in and see if that helps. But that's just more $$ dumped into Toyota stuff, so no biggy right:flipoff2:

I would hope that with an atlas and tons the weak point would be the u joints, but I also hoped that for this current setup lol

Are your wontons built and ready to bolt in? Or still need gears, lockers, shafts, etc?

I'd personally throw in the upgraded output and run it some more. If anything it will need the output fixed to be worth money if you sell it for an Atlas.
 
Are your wontons built and ready to bolt in? Or still need gears, lockers, shafts, etc?

I'd personally throw in the upgraded output and run it some more. If anything it will need the output fixed to be worth money if you sell it for an Atlas.
Not at all built yet, i am building them up for another potential project later down the road though so they'll be built eventually. Putting in the chromo output shaft and running it and seeing how it does while I build the tons sounds like a good plan, maybe the chromo output is all the truck needs
 
Not at all built yet, i am building them up for another potential project later down the road though so they'll be built eventually. Putting in the chromo output shaft and running it and seeing how it does while I build the tons sounds like a good plan, maybe the chromo output is all the truck needs

Fix what you got, run it, and see how it goes!

The rear output seems to always be the weak link so it'll help to upgrade it anyway. Maybe avoid the undercuts as well. :flipoff2:
 
If you do 1 tons, do 7. 17s, don't even fuck with 5.13s or 5.38s. 7.17s will keep your tcases happy. Unfortunately that Hp60 can't go that low, so you'd have to tube it with a 9", D60 or D70 low pinion.

Don't worry about the width. Just run 4-5" bs wheels. My 1 tons with 14.5s fit between the fenders on a car trailer because of the 4.75" bs wheels.

Stock SD 17s work well with the 05+ fronts if you want to stay narrow.
 
Don't worry about the width. Just run 4-5" bs wheels. My 1 tons with 14.5s fit between the fenders on a car trailer because of the 4.75" bs wheels.

Stock SD 17s work well with the 05+ fronts if you want to stay narrow.


Can you fit those with any of the aftermarket high steer kits? (artec, barnes, JHF, MOTOBILT, TMR, etc?)
 
If you do 1 tons, do 7. 17s, don't even fuck with 5.13s or 5.38s. 7.17s will keep your tcases happy. Unfortunately that Hp60 can't go that low, so you'd have to tube it with a 9", D60 or D70 low pinion.

Don't worry about the width. Just run 4-5" bs wheels. My 1 tons with 14.5s fit between the fenders on a car trailer because of the 4.75" bs wheels.

Stock SD 17s work well with the 05+ fronts if you want to stay narrow.
Thanks for the wheel info!

I'm thinking ill most likely go for the lowest common gears I can go with the D70U and SD60, which I think are 5.13s, and then run a 4 speed atlas to get the driver side output for the D60. I feel that would get me a pretty good low low and still keep a decent high gear for the open desert between trails. (Sounds like a turbo will be in the near future as well lol) I am new to the one ton and Atlas world but have some buddies with them in their trail rigs and race rigs that are pretty familiar with them. Plus Advance Adapters is like a 5 min drive from my house :grinpimp:
 
Thanks for the wheel info!

I'm thinking ill most likely go for the lowest common gears I can go with the D70U and SD60, which I think are 5.13s, and then run a 4 speed atlas to get the driver side output for the D60. I feel that would get me a pretty good low low and still keep a decent high gear for the open desert between trails. (Sounds like a turbo will be in the near future as well lol) I am new to the one ton and Atlas world but have some buddies with them in their trail rigs and race rigs that are pretty familiar with them. Plus Advance Adapters is like a 5 min drive from my house :grinpimp:

Even with 7.17s and 40s, high range is just OK with a 4cyl, turbo or not. You'll still never hit redline in 5th. The only thing you'd gain with the atlas is front dig and a hp front. Not that those are sweet, but you could build the front axle much cheaper than the atlas and still gearing and locking the axle. A semi float ford van D60u is a good donor for a center section of you want to stay cheap, do it right and you can reuse your shafts.

Just for reference, if you've ever ran around with the crawl box in low with 4.10s, that 9.35.
 
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