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1973 Travelall 1010 - Slammed Family Cruiser Build.

FUCK!!!! Jack barely fits under the crossmember aired up. I thought the wheels were rolling funny..... Well it slipped off. Now I need a tie rod and oil pan. FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK!

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Java230 said:
FUCK!!!! Jack barely fits under the crossmember aired up. I thought the wheels were rolling funny..... Well it slipped off. Now I need a tie rod and oil pan. FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK!

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Straighten that shit out and get this thing on the road. Crankshaft clear the pan? Id be really tempted to run a better gasket under the drain plug ....
 
CarterKraft said:
Straighten that shit out and get this thing on the road. Crankshaft clear the pan? Id be really tempted to run a better gasket under the drain plug ....
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I'm gonna assume it clears. Big o ring? Jb weld that bitch back in? It's not going to see a ton of miles, I can buy a vacuum pump if I need to to change the oil....

It had a funky plastic gasket.
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Java230 said:
I'm gonna assume it clears. Big o ring? Jb weld that bitch back in? It's not going to see a ton of miles, I can buy a vacuum pump if I need to to change the oil....

It had a funky plastic gasket.
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If be inclined to go to O'Reilly's and buy a big flanged washer bolt with chunky seal from the help section. Just something to get it on the road.
 
CarterKraft said:
If be inclined to go to O'Reilly's and buy a big flanged washer bolt with chunky seal from the help section. Just something to get it on the road.
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The wrinkle is right where the bolt goes. The tie rod literally hit it....

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CarterKraft said:
Slide hammer? Or just build a puller to get it back in shape?
Doesn't look pull able with engine on chassis?
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I was thinking that in bed last night.... I'll get a bolt and see what I can do. My luck is ill rip the threads out....
 
allen headed bolt with some sort of thread sealer would do it it looks to me. you've got a flat surface, just not a flat surface for a big hex head bolt to run down. shit, i'd wager a bolt with teflon tape would be just fine too.

if the pan happened to crack (doesn't look like it did), get it empty, clean the shit out of it, and smear a nice layer of JB weld over that area. Dad's old Toy' oil pan started getting pinholes and was a shit job. JBWeld held for 3 years and 50k miles till he sold it.


I'd be more inclined to weld an eyelet to a bolt and try to pry it straight a little bit vs the slide hammer - at least I'd have some feel for whats going on vs just immediately ripping the threads off. like this thing, then a crowbar at the right angle thru the circle
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pull the tie rod straight with a come along or ratchet strap or something. if you're really worried about it, straighten it then weld on a piece of angle iron to keep it straight. (I ran a shitty OEM draglink reinforced this way on my lifted Scout for a year or two, and those are small diameter in comparison)


you're OK.
 
budget76 said:
allen headed bolt with some sort of thread sealer would do it it looks to me. you've got a flat surface, just not a flat surface for a big hex head bolt to run down. shit, i'd wager a bolt with teflon tape would be just fine too.

if the pan happened to crack (doesn't look like it did), get it empty, clean the shit out of it, and smear a nice layer of JB weld over that area. Dad's old Toy' oil pan started getting pinholes and was a shit job. JBWeld held for 3 years and 50k miles till he sold it.


I'd be more inclined to weld an eyelet to a bolt and try to pry it straight a little bit vs the slide hammer - at least I'd have some feel for whats going on vs just immediately ripping the threads off. like this thing, then a crowbar at the right angle thru the circle
1716989321154.png



pull the tie rod straight with a come along or ratchet strap or something. if you're really worried about it, straighten it then weld on a piece of angle iron to keep it straight. (I ran a shitty OEM draglink reinforced this way on my lifted Scout for a year or two, and those are small diameter in comparison)


you're OK.
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Eyelet is a good idea. I think its just kinked at the hole a little too much. Allen would have nearly no seal surface.

I was tempted to try a big Oring under the bolt, but was afraid it might rattle loose.
 
Java230 said:
its just kinked at the hole a little too much. Allen would have nearly no seal surface.

I was tempted to try a big Oring under the bolt, but was afraid it might rattle loose.
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Stack some dowty washers. It'll be fine.
 
or if you don't drive it that often, just go your bolt+JBWeld and sucker oil changes

if it annoys you in the future, swap the pan after you've had fun driving it this summer



edit: you could also drill 2 bolts for safety wire. one for the drain, one for the pan itself, and wire the drain bolt so it can't wiggle out. That + teflon tape and a big o-ring or thick gasket and you're good

even if it drips slightly, you could revisit it





of course, it's all "as long as the crank clears". or maybe it'll self clearance and straighten the pan out for you:homer::laughing:
 
budget76 said:
or if you don't drive it that often, just go your bolt+JBWeld and sucker oil changes

if it annoys you in the future, swap the pan after you've had fun driving it this summer



edit: you could also drill 2 bolts for safety wire. one for the drain, one for the pan itself, and wire the drain bolt so it can't wiggle out. That + teflon tape and a big o-ring or thick gasket and you're good

even if it drips slightly, you could revisit it





of course, it's all "as long as the crank clears". or maybe it'll self clearance and straighten the pan out for you:homer::laughing:
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Its the deep/sump section of the pan, crank "should" clear.

I really don't want a dripper.... But maybe its not the end of the world. Ill see what I can do tonight.

Although I may just focus on the paint at the moment.
 
Weld that one closed, drill hole in the front of the pan and weld a flange nut to the bottom of the pan.
 
KacksterK5 said:
Weld that one closed, drill hole in the front of the pan and weld a flange nut to the bottom of the pan.
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I'm not sure welding it on the truck is a very good idea? Lots of burned oil and crap inside the pan?

I'm going to see if I can get it to seal. If not it's going to get JB welded closed....
 
Java230 said:
I'm not sure welding it on the truck is a very good idea? Lots of burned oil and crap inside the pan?

I'm going to see if I can get it to seal. If not it's going to get JB welded closed....
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That's why God made oil filters. Spot tack it, we know you've got 500 good spot welds on this thing. Hell, just pull the gasket off the drain plug and weld that thing in there. Hook a vacuum cleaner to the oil fill and pull vacuum on the case to keep it from dripping down the bolt while you're welding.
 
Ignore the door gaps, those are factory. I swear.


But I learned so much on this. There were so many tiny spot welds that I filled all the way down this side and the other side.


I think there were 70 per side? If have to go back to page 5 or something.

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Awesome! Drive that mofo!






Get a big boy pry bar, or an 8' piece of pipe, wrap a chain around the tie rod, feed your magic stick in there and hook the x member and jump up and down on the front till its straight, then weld a tab to it and put a bolt in the oil pan through it, or weld an eye to a bolt and do it again
 
Well I have two coats of clear on.



Good news, it must be thick.



Bad news. It's trying to get off the car. If it was a relay race I could. Go for miles. Runs on runs on runs. And it's also cottonwood season.

I think more light may have been needed. Clear is hard.
 
Java230 said:
Yep! First time doing any body work. I am learning as I go. And really have zero clue
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Right on. No problem with that. I shoulda paid more attention and given you a few pointers to start off with. All paint mistakes are fixable, though.
 
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