Build Broken4 Racing 4500 Class Build

Transmission Mount fun. This plasma table is making this even easier than I thought it would
 

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Get some 'Construction Reamers' in your favourite sizes, don't snag on the hard spots as much as regular twist drills.
 
Landy_Andy said:
Get some 'Construction Reamers' in your favourite sizes, don't snag on the hard spots as much as regular twist drills.
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I got some actually! i picked up a 3/4 and 1/2 since that should be 90% of my bolts. These are 9/16 and I don't have a ton that should need that size.
 

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Ive been lagging behind on the updates here.

After dropping the engine, I cut up a lifting plate. It works :beer:
 

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Bought a pack of poly bushings on Amazon and then turned down some housings. I should have just kept the bushings at 3" wide, but decided to make them 2 5/8, which meant trimming the bushings. Chop saw worked really well lol.

I had meant to order some TMR Customs mock up bushings, but forgot and needed to whip up something. I used 3/8 plate and just turned them down on the lathe. Worked great!
 

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broken4_racing said:
Bought a pack of poly bushings on Amazon and then turned down some housings. I should have just kept the bushings at 3" wide, but decided to make them 2 5/8, which meant trimming the bushings. Chop saw worked really well lol.

I had meant to order some TMR Customs mock up bushings, but forgot and needed to whip up something. I used 3/8 plate and just turned them down on the lathe. Worked great!
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I like the plywood jig idea!
 
Well we have been making progress, but I have been bad at updating the thread. If you are on instagram, I post way more over there at broken4_racing.
Anyways, here is the start to the axle trusses. Ill be plating front and rear of them, but want to get them in and flex everything out before I do that.
 

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Rear axle under the car. The calipers on this newer 14 bolt are on the frontside of the axle and they are in the way of the mounts. So Ill be fipping them to the backside of the axle which means custom brackets. Does anyone have suggestions on the angle or height that the caliper should be? I want it out of the rocks, but also not a pain to bleed?
 

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broken4_racing said:
Rear axle under the car. The calipers on this newer 14 bolt are on the frontside of the axle and they are in the way of the mounts. So Ill be fipping them to the backside of the axle which means custom brackets. Does anyone have suggestions on the angle or height that the caliper should be? I want it out of the rocks, but also not a pain to bleed?
Click to expand...

Not scientific, but I just swag the angle based on making sure the bleeder remains the highest point. Sometime handy to clamp it to the rotor using air to actuate and spin it until it seems right.
 
JohnnyJ said:
Not scientific, but I just swag the angle based on making sure the bleeder remains the highest point. Sometime handy to clamp it to the rotor using air to actuate and spin it until it seems right.
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Get the bleeder at the highest point, less chance of any air being trapped in it then...
 
JohnnyJ said:
Not scientific, but I just swag the angle based on making sure the bleeder remains the highest point. Sometime handy to clamp it to the rotor using air to actuate and spin it until it seems right.
Click to expand...

Landy_Andy said:
Get the bleeder at the highest point, less chance of any air being trapped in it then...
Click to expand...
Thanks guys, kinda figured being exact wasnt too important.
 
Built a couple crossmembers for the floor paneling and seat mounts. The plan is to have the floor able to come out with only having to remove 1 seat. Hopefully making any work at races easier. The drivers seat is slightly higher than I wanted, but it was getting into the hump of the np205. I still have 3" from my helmet to the cage, so Ill stick with it here, but I may need to shave the case later to drop the seat.
 

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Some more of the crossmembers and seat mounts.
 

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For Brakes, we are going with the IBooster. On the last Car I ran hydroboost, and while it worked great, I like separating the two system. At the last race I lost the power steering pump. But while we were troubleshooting, I wasn't sure if it was an issue with the pump (no pressure sensor), hydroboost, or possibly the ram. Overall I think separate systems will be nicer. It also has the benefit of having full braking power even with the engine off.
 

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Some pictures of the bracket. I ended up flipping the unit 180 degrees from the last photo so I have more clearance to my shoes. I also ended up raising up the entire unit about 3/4". so that's what those markings on the last photo are. Ill have to get some pictures of it installed. The holes on the side plates will have a through rod with some DOM and flanged roller bearings for the brake pedal.
 

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broken4_racing said:
For Brakes, we are going with the IBooster. On the last Car I ran hydroboost, and while it worked great, I like separating the two system. At the last race I lost the power steering pump. But while we were troubleshooting, I wasn't sure if it was an issue with the pump (no pressure sensor), hydroboost, or possibly the ram. Overall I think separate systems will be nicer. It also has the benefit of having full braking power even with the engine off.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty interested to see how you like the Ibooster. I was wondering how it will work with 4 wilwood 6 pistons. Currently, my vacuum booster is exactly where a tube needs to be, and my new engine won't have a ton of vacuum anyways.
 
Tryloff said:
I'm pretty interested to see how you like the Ibooster. I was wondering how it will work with 4 wilwood 6 pistons. Currently, my vacuum booster is exactly where a tube needs to be, and my new engine won't have a ton of vacuum anyways.
Click to expand...
If you haven't, check out the Ibooster thread here on the forum. But I will definitely be updating the thread once Its running. I left room to switch out the MC with a longer one if I need to since Ill be running the stock superduty and 02 14 bolt calipers for now.
 
broken4_racing said:
If you haven't, check out the Ibooster thread here on the forum. But I will definitely be updating the thread once Its running. I left room to switch out the MC with a longer one if I need to since Ill be running the stock superduty and 02 14 bolt calipers for now.
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I'd be interested to hear how it works also. Are you going to use the stock ibooster master to start with? I was planning to swap that out for a superduty master. Figuring the superduty master should be matched well for superduty front calipers and the 14bolt rear calipers. I was even planning on trying to match the stock pedal ratio, although I don't think an ibooster pulls as hard as a hydroboost setup.
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
I'd be interested to hear how it works also. Are you going to use the stock ibooster master to start with? I was planning to swap that out for a superduty master. Figuring the superduty master should be matched well for superduty front calipers and the 14bolt rear calipers. I was even planning on trying to match the stock pedal ratio, although I don't think an ibooster pulls as hard as a hydroboost setup.
Click to expand...
I am planning to try the stock MC first. I am hoping that it works, but who knows. I like how low profile it is.
For my pedal, Its going to be pretty short at only 11-12 inches and ill put two holes, one for 3:1 and one for 4:1. I am ok with a harder pedal if it is still reasonable but has a shorter stroke. I hate long stroke pedals.
 
broken4_racing said:
I am planning to try the stock MC first. I am hoping that it works, but who knows. I like how low profile it is.
For my pedal, Its going to be pretty short at only 11-12 inches and ill put two holes, one for 3:1 and one for 4:1. I am ok with a harder pedal if it is still reasonable but has a shorter stroke. I hate long stroke pedals.
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I guess that might work. Smaller master with a shorter pedal should be about the same as a larger master and longer pedal. Just hope you're in the window of functionality for it work!
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
I guess that might work. Smaller master with a shorter pedal should be about the same as a larger master and longer pedal. Just hope you're in the window of functionality for it work!
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Yup exactly. I wont know until the car is running haha
 
Some pictures of starting the exhaust. I am making custom log style manifolds just due to clearance. This set is aluminized, since its cheaper and ive never built manifolds before, but I will probably build some stainless ones at some point.
 

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chaplinfj60 said:
So the log. I messed up mine by making it to low and once complete the only way to remove plugs was by taking off manifold.
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Ooof, thats rough. I actually did make sure I can get them all out with the manifold on.
 
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