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Broken4 Racing Compound

broken4_racing

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Joined
Nov 17, 2021
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Hey Guys,

We recently made a huge purchase for us, an acreage. Super excited to be out of the city and back into the country. It is a foreclosure house that is going to need ALOT of renos. Frozen pipes, smashed windows, the whole 9 yards. I am building a shop, and want your input on do's, dont's, maybe's, etc. I have read a lot of threads about shops, but wanted to see if anyone had specific input for racecar prep, building, etc.

Basic build will be 40x50, 3 overhead doors and the man door along the 50' side. Footings will be 2' tall, with the 5-6" slab starting at the bottom of the footing. 12' 2x6 walls with double top and bottom plates. This will give me just shy of 14' from TOS to underside of trusses. The mezzanine will have a 8' clear head room, so I can add extra lighting for the future lathe/mill, and build a room for most of my grinding. I will put a couple inline fans sucking air from one joist space of this area, and use furnace filters on the bottom of the joists to help filter the air before circulating it into the shop.

Since this is way far up in Canuck land, the plan at this point is to have in floor radiant heat. The price difference seems to be within a couple thousand so that seems worth it to me.

Lift is located on door the closest to the workbench, and furthest from parking the truck to minimize welding sparks, griding etc flying on it. I may put up a curtain to try and cut this down more. The workbench will have a built in mitre saw stand as I also do some woodworking. The saw will drop down for storage.

Planning to sheet the inside with 7/16 OSB and paint it white to maximize lighting. For lighting I am looking at putting in 12 of the UFO LED lights, each with 22,500 Lumens. This will give me a total of 270,000 lumens, or 135 lumens/ sq ft. My current garage has ~86 lumens/sq ft, and while it is bright, I could definitely put more.

The right side (or left) will have a 10' car port for the enclosed trailer.

One of the biggest inputs I am looking for is for a hoist. I would like to put an overhead beam above the lift to help with engines, flexing, putting things on the mezzanine, etc. Ideas:
1) single beam down the center, approx $2000 beam. issue is lifting a single corner of the racecar will try and twist, etc. This also will make the header beam above the overhead door much bigger, likely pushing into LVL's.
2) two beams, with support columns landing right beside (touching) the lift columns. Approx $2400 in beams, plus the required additional connector beam, and tracks/bearings/wheels to have the trolley run on two beams. This would keep the overhead door beam the same. Issue here is headroom. I would likely drop the two long beams, so i can run the connector beam above, and not lose two beams worth of lifting height if it was hung below.


Shop Layout.PNG



For the exterior, the plan is to run the driveway down the side of the property. This makes the tree look in the way, but I should be able to leave it.

Meadowview.PNG


Give me your thoughts, ideas and plans!
 
Wider for the lean-to. Be able to open the side door under cover. And tow mirrors are almost 12’ wide on my truck for reference.

Same on the doors, I’m pleased with 12’Wx10’H on my shop even with the angled approach. Would need more height to get any RV inside.
 
Wider for the lean-to. Be able to open the side door under cover. And tow mirrors are almost 12’ wide on my truck for reference.

Same on the doors, I’m pleased with 12’Wx10’H on my shop even with the angled approach. Would need more height to get any RV inside.
That's a good point. I often store stuff in the enclosed so being able to get in there would be nice.

For the doors, I have the 12'H door on the left planned for RV's.
 
Wider for the lean-to. Be able to open the side door under cover. And tow mirrors are almost 12’ wide on my truck for reference.

Same on the doors, I’m pleased with 12’Wx10’H on my shop even with the angled approach. Would need more height to get any RV inside.
my leanto's are 12' wide... they get tight backing the trailer into them and I still have to fold the mirrors in on the truck. So I 100% agree with going as wide as possible.
re: Doors... also agree with 12' wide. My garage doors are 10' wide and it amazes me how "tight" it is getting the SuperDuty in. I won't even try getting the dually in. I'd go as tall as possible on doors as well - just to allow you to back the a loaded trailer in. My barn is 12'x12' door (sliding) and seems a solid side.
 
3 12ft wide doors and a man door on 50ft leaves only about 12 feet total of wall.
 
my leanto's are 12' wide... they get tight backing the trailer into them and I still have to fold the mirrors in on the truck. So I 100% agree with going as wide as possible.
re: Doors... also agree with 12' wide. My garage doors are 10' wide and it amazes me how "tight" it is getting the SuperDuty in. I won't even try getting the dually in. I'd go as tall as possible on doors as well - just to allow you to back the a loaded trailer in. My barn is 12'x12' door (sliding) and seems a solid side.
On a 12ft door?

I back semi trucks in 12ft openings all the time. Have about a foot on each side of the mirrors.
 
my leanto's are 12' wide... they get tight backing the trailer into them and I still have to fold the mirrors in on the truck. So I 100% agree with going as wide as possible.
re: Doors... also agree with 12' wide. My garage doors are 10' wide and it amazes me how "tight" it is getting the SuperDuty in. I won't even try getting the dually in. I'd go as tall as possible on doors as well - just to allow you to back the a loaded trailer in. My barn is 12'x12' door (sliding) and seems a solid side.
Thanks! Ill definitely go wider on the leanto. The main door that will get 90% of the use is the 14Wx12H door. The racecar will be on the lift 98% of the time and only spends 10-15 out of the garage a year. The middle door will be more for lawn mowers, bobcats, etc. Thats why I was going narrower and shorter for those two
 
typical-footing-drawing.jpg


The footing is the thing at the bottom of the wall. From your description, I'm guessing you mean 2' tall stem wall?
Haha different nomenclature I guess. We call footings anything that isn't a pile pretty much. It'll be a 2' tall by 8" or 10" wide concrete square. Easy to form and pour. No block.

edit: photo

Footing.PNG
 
You had said "way far up in Canuck land" so are you dealing with permafrost and shit? Like Dethmachinefab says, around here you'd be looking at a foundation wall down to a footing below the frost line. If you're doing a floating slab, you'd put the stem wall on top of the slab. What you drew - wall with slab coming into the side of it - would fall over in short order. There's no support for the stem wall.
 
You had said "way far up in Canuck land" so are you dealing with permafrost and shit? Like Dethmachinefab says, around here you'd be looking at a foundation wall down to a footing below the frost line. If you're doing a floating slab, you'd put the stem wall on top of the slab. What you drew - wall with slab coming into the side of it - would fall over in short order. There's no support for the stem wall.
Haha no not that far up.. Its getting built in Edmonton. Sorry Guys, I was super unclear. The main supporting system will be piles around the perimeter that this "foundation wall" will tie to. More like a grade beam. This grade beam will be poured onto the lift of gravel, and the slab will butt up to it.

I did have a realization last night though, that at the overhead doors, I want the slab to tie into/ go overtop a portion of the grade beam for support. So what i will likely do is shift the grade beam lower, so the bottom of the slab will be 1' up on the grade beam. This will drop my clear height so I may look at going to 14' studs instead of 12's.
 
I've designed pile and grade beam systems for expansive soils. They're typically a lot more costly than a standard foundation wall and footing.

The grade beam is still typically below grade level. As you say, you'd want your slab to be supported by the grade beam otherwise it is likely to settle and rise independently and cause issues - particularly if it goes over the grade beam in some places like at your overhead doors.

This is what I'm familiar with for light construction with a pile and grade beam - I've also done concrete caissons instead of wood piles for larger projects:
pilegradebeam.jpeg


You can pour the section below the slab instead of using block and I've done a stem wall above the slab to get the framed wall away from moisture - both from the ground as well as washing down things in the interior of the building. A course of block is usually enough but three courses gets you two feet, which is nice dimensionally.
 
I have an uncle that will be handling all the concrete so I am definitively not looking at any block. I will price out the options, but the detailed excavation would likely cost me more. The Idea would be concrete piles with bent rebar tied into the grade beams. No wood piles.
 
On a 12ft door?

I back semi trucks in 12ft openings all the time. Have about a foot on each side of the mirrors.
have to enter mine at an angle due to location/trees/etc. and I'm paranoid that I'll yank a mirror...
 
I love building on stem walls. 2'-3' above the slab is great protection for the building both inside and out. See wall and thicker piers parts where the columns go.
20190903_171928.jpg

That's my one regret - not putting in a stem wall 2' up or so. And like others, as wide/tall as you can on the doors. Buddy built a shop with 2 bays - 14' door in front of the lift, 10' in front of the other bay. Built a camper shell to turn his F600 into a motorhome, but had a lot of trouble trying to get it onto the truck due to the difference in door heights and layout with the lift. I.E. he had to shuffle it out the 10' door, then load it on the truck vs just backing under and calling it done.
 
That's my one regret - not putting in a stem wall 2' up or so. And like others, as wide/tall as you can on the doors. Buddy built a shop with 2 bays - 14' door in front of the lift, 10' in front of the other bay. Built a camper shell to turn his F600 into a motorhome, but had a lot of trouble trying to get it onto the truck due to the difference in door heights and layout with the lift. I.E. he had to shuffle it out the 10' door, then load it on the truck vs just backing under and calling it done.
Ah, makes sense. Ya I am looking at possible going to a 3' grade beam now. Just due to the elevation change across the area of the shop. Otherwise I may end up with grading towards the shop.

The larger door in front of the lift is a good idea forsure.
 
great advise above

adding, take your total volume and double it, you will wish you did

and
power, I ran as much power as I could without going full commercial, and I do not regret any of it
 
great advise above

adding, take your total volume and double it, you will wish you did

and
power, I ran as much power as I could without going full commercial, and I do not regret any of it
Ya, Forsure. Unfortunately that's just not in the budget. Currently I am making it work with a 26x28, so almost triple the size should treat me well. 40x50 is already a bit of a stretch.

I am waiting on a letter from the seller so I can see what my power options are. The house currently has a 100 amp service, so I am hoping I can up that to 200 Amp with just a meter swap. Ill then run 100Amp out to the shop. For the most part I work out there alone so I cant see ever exceeding that.
 
Ya, Forsure. Unfortunately that's just not in the budget. Currently I am making it work with a 26x28, so almost triple the size should treat me well. 40x50 is already a bit of a stretch.

I am waiting on a letter from the seller so I can see what my power options are. The house currently has a 100 amp service, so I am hoping I can up that to 200 Amp with just a meter swap. Ill then run 100Amp out to the shop. For the most part I work out there alone so I cant see ever exceeding that.
I work alone and am currently bumping against 200A at times with the welders, compressors, and other gizmos

more space makes more tools, more tools makes more opportunities:grinpimp:
 
Ya, Forsure. Unfortunately that's just not in the budget. Currently I am making it work with a 26x28, so almost triple the size should treat me well. 40x50 is already a bit of a stretch.

I am waiting on a letter from the seller so I can see what my power options are. The house currently has a 100 amp service, so I am hoping I can up that to 200 Amp with just a meter swap. Ill then run 100Amp out to the shop. For the most part I work out there alone so I cant see ever exceeding that.
Exactly what I did here in Onterrible - swapped the 100A panel from the house to the shop, upgraded the house to 200A. Limited by the buried line to the pole for the main service, otherwise I would have gone 400A at the house (because why not?) and future proofed it. But like you, I work alone most of the time, and 100A has been more than enough.

EDIT: small compressor at the moment, single 210 MIG, no TIG/stick/plasma. If/when I finally get a big compressor and (someday) a plasma table, that may change.
 
I work alone and am currently bumping against 200A at times with the welders, compressors, and other gizmos

more space makes more tools, more tools makes more opportunities:grinpimp:
Hmmm really? Well if I am able to bump the house to 3 or 400 amp I definitely will. I have a welder, and I plan to have a 220 compressor, eventually a plasma table, etc.
 
Exactly what I did here in Onterrible - swapped the 100A panel from the house to the shop, upgraded the house to 200A. Limited by the buried line to the pole for the main service, otherwise I would have gone 400A at the house (because why not?) and future proofed it. But like you, I work alone most of the time, and 100A has been more than enough.

EDIT: small compressor at the moment, single 210 MIG, no TIG/stick/plasma. If/when I finally get a big compressor and (someday) a plasma table, that may change.
Hmm, I definitely plan to run some higher power 220 tools. Just one at a time though haha
 
Hmmm really? Well if I am able to bump the house to 3 or 400 amp I definitely will. I have a welder, and I plan to have a 220 compressor, eventually a plasma table, etc.
I have a plasma table that runs also

that is a whole another project of bogger is better, but maybe in a different thread someday

if the plasma table is running WFO, the compressor will be active, and probably also WFO
you at some point will running another welder while your table is cutting , god forbid you have a buddy over and they are running tools
then lights, stereo, heaters, computers, chargers, gizmos and gadgets ......

disclosure I so work from home, but there are days that I know that I am pushing that panel

food for thought :beer:
 
I have a plasma table that runs also

that is a whole another project of bogger is better, but maybe in a different thread someday

if the plasma table is running WFO, the compressor will be active, and probably also WFO
you at some point will running another welder while your table is cutting , god forbid you have a buddy over and they are running tools
then lights, stereo, heaters, computers, chargers, gizmos and gadgets ......

disclosure I so work from home, but there are days that I know that I am pushing that panel

food for thought :beer:
No, that's absolutely the input I want. Id hate to have to re dig up the power lines for more power.
I can absolutely see that happening to me. Welder, plasma table, and compressor all running.

Doesn't make a difference for power, but once a plasma table is in the picture, it will be getting its own side building. I don't want that in the main shop.
 
having spent way too much time in a shop with all the doors on one wall, add another even if its a man door to the back of the building. it will help you get a breeze when opened.

start the slope for the doors inside so to help keep any buildup on the doors from coming in.
 
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