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What did you do to your yota today?

rockota said:
What’s going up front?
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I have a rough stuff housing to match the rear width.
As you can see it's buried on the bench.
The truck is 250 miles away in AZ storage.
But it's a start.
Rear will be Detroit with 5.29's
Front will be HP elocker.
All of it on leafs.
 
Finally getting around to changing the clutch on my DC. It’s been squeaking for a while, and occasionally the pedal stays on the floor. Pulled everything last night, clutch kit didn’t come with pilot bearing, which was froze. New bearing today, hoping to get it back on tonight.
Although I’m considering twin sticking the tcase while it’s out. Like the idea of the twin stick, but I want to keep the shifter boots liking original. Gotta figure that out first, I guess.
 
maveric said:
Finally getting around to changing the clutch on my DC. It’s been squeaking for a while, and occasionally the pedal stays on the floor. Pulled everything last night, clutch kit didn’t come with pilot bearing, which was froze. New bearing today, hoping to get it back on tonight.
Although I’m considering twin sticking the tcase while it’s out. Like the idea of the twin stick, but I want to keep the shifter boots liking original. Gotta figure that out first, I guess.
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Pull the interlock pin and run a single stick.
 
maveric said:
As a temp solution so it’s ready when I decide to do it? Or twin stick capabilities with a single stick? I want 2wd low range.
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Twin stick with a single stick. Guys have been doing this for close to 30 years probably.
 
maveric said:
Finally getting around to changing the clutch on my DC. It’s been squeaking for a while, and occasionally the pedal stays on the floor. Pulled everything last night, clutch kit didn’t come with pilot bearing, which was froze. New bearing today, hoping to get it back on tonight.
Although I’m considering twin sticking the tcase while it’s out. Like the idea of the twin stick, but I want to keep the shifter boots liking original. Gotta figure that out first, I guess.
Click to expand...
Cut the handles and put them where you want
 
How exactly do you shift into 2 lo? Looking at the shift rails, if it’s in 2 hi, the shifter won’t move into the low rail without moving to 4hi. This is a j shift taco case.

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2 hi. 2/4 rail on right (top in this photo)

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4 hi
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4 lo.
 

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Aisin said:
Seriously? I joined the other site in 2004. It was covered numerous times there. It’s probably in the Toy faq.
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you brought it up, I'm not going on a man hunt to find it.

show us.
not seeing how you get high/low 2wd 4wd from one stick.
 
Aisin said:
Seriously? I joined the other site in 2004. It was covered numerous times there. It’s probably in the Toy faq.
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It’s not in either faq that I could find. Just looked.
If I remember correctly, the rails on the gear cases are different then what I have.

I don’t usually want to be spoon fed, but if this is a simple mod, I’m all for it in my application.
 
maveric said:
It’s not in either faq that I could find. Just looked.
If I remember correctly, the rails on the gear cases are different then what I have.

I don’t usually want to be spoon fed, but if this is a simple mod, I’m all for it in my application.
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Quite simple. Once the interlock pill is gone it allows the rails to shift independently. Step 10 of Trail Gears instructions for twin stick. That interlock pin is the only thing keep you from twin stick capabilities with a single stick.
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I understand how the shift rails work. I’m struggling with how you shift the rails independently since the shifter base is locked into one rail or the other until the slots line up (4hi), allowing the shifter to move to other rail.
 
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Boring as hell but it’s another thing done. Watch out for those little stainless clips for the pads. Those fuckers are sharp.
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Not pretty but that’s done. I need to get some paint for touch ups.
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Stingray said:
Show me,
never seen it done with one stick.
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Remove interlock pill and grind like this is what I have done. Grind a wide enough opening in the 2wd/4wd slot so that the shifter can flip side to side when in 4wd neutral. The same way it does in 4wd high. Also remove that nub off of the high low shift fork at the top of the picture. Obviously don’t remove that section from the 2wd/4wd side :homer:

(I did mine on a gear drive so I may said have something wrong about the chain drive extra nub just use your brain when you’re grinding things)

There are some downsides in terms of functionality but they are somewhat superficial if you are cheap or really want to keep a 1 stick shift boot and not modify anything.

-2-4 shift fork gets extra sloppy forward and backwards because of the extra space you made. To avoid this you keep the shifter on the high low side. To do this from a stock 2wd high shifter position you shift back into 4wd, slide over to the high low rail and bump it up into neutral. From neutral with the 2wd/4wd shift slot ground wider you can sneak back over to the 2wd 4wd side, bump it back into 2wd and then sneak back over into neutral. Shifting back into High means there’s nowhere for the shifter to go. The same is true for 4wd low. In 2wd low you can slip side to side like 4 high.

-The stock 2wd high position the shifter can also slip forward and over out of both shift rails into dead space. It is a bit odd feeling to find your way back. Nothing bad happens however.
 
A couple weeks ago I bought an 03 double cab Tacoma as a daily/beater to keep miles off my newer Tacoma. I knew it had a rusty frame when I bought it. Sunday I started patching the rust. It’s always worse than it looks. I need to clean up some of the welds on the patch panels and I have some cheap eBay slip on frame doubler plates that need to go on.

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Changed the engine oil and greased the u-joints on my first gen taco.

The 1 year old carrier bearing has like 1/2" of slop in it. Vatozone.

Is there a better carrier bearing that will last longer? Toyota?
 
Steve300xcw said:
I like the spicers
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I'll see if I can grab those.

This thing has close to 6" of lift in the rear so I can haul water. HD OME rear springs with the add a lift.

No vibes at hwy speeds. Stock rear drive shaft.

Should I lower the carrier bearing assembly?
 
I’m going to say that if you don’t have any vibrations, I’d leave it. My first gen is running 63’s in the rear with an add a leaf. Stockish driveline (lengthened about 1.5” after I moved the axle back). I dropped the bearing about 1/2”. I had a little over 6k on the new bearing (replaced before Baja last Oct), just put another one in. They are the rockauto ones, so they are cheap ish, both in price and quality. A good quality replacement would be nice.
 
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Guy at Napa said the SKF brand was the best he can get. I will talk to the regular guy next time and see of if he can find a spicer carrier bearing.
 
An OE carrier bearing is $249 at Toyotapartsdeal. SKF and Timken are both $138 at Rockauto. Stealership is $357 or more.
 
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