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What did you do for your ford today?

reptillikus said:
PXL_20231130_152743602.jpg



Pulled from a 97 F250. EEC-IV speed-density EFI 351 w/ E4OD. I saved it, because i save every ECU from trucks i part out. Do you need it? What other E4OD specific parts do you need?
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For a 1997 PCM i'd need

Wiring Harness
PSOM, just that portion of the cluster
VSS from the rear axle ABS
Shift Solenoid Pack

and i'd like to get the following used

MLPS
TPS
MAP
IAT



edit: after looking up some parts new/used/ebay online, it looks like the PSOM and shift solenoids run a hundred+ apiece, and easily 300 each, whereas a pre-92 PCM can be had for $100 and down. Unless you've got all the stuff and are willing to toss it into a flat rate box for very cheap, I will keep looking for an earlier one. I appreciate the offer though!!
 
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willis_racing said:
I started a shit shat thread trying to get me a cheap sbf ZF5 so I can be like all the cool kids in this thread :laughing:
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looks like it's going to work too, cheap ZF5's coming out of the woodwork :laughing:

i'm in for a <$100 one all day. I'll find a truck for it eventually

he said, despite having dodge and toyota transmissions for years and no idea why he continues to move them....
 
Provience said:
For a 1997 PCM i'd need

Wiring Harness
PSOM, just that portion of the cluster
VSS from the rear axle ABS
Shift Solenoid Pack

and i'd like to get the following used

MLPS
TPS
MAP
IAT
Click to expand...
If youre not using it for engine management then maybe a 89-91 PCM would work better for you? Dont need the PSOM or the VSS, you use the OSS on the end of the speedo cable instead and supply the signal right to the PCM. So might be a simpler install. I have one in my box marked 4.9L Auto, but i dont know the year, so im not sure if its E4OD or AODE. Probably a reman as the ford id tag is gone with a generic calibration code sticker E9B which i cant find online anywhere.

If you want to use the 97 PCM, I have a couple PSOMs, i just dont know if any of them are good. Sure they power up, but that doesnt mean theyre good. When the one in my 96 failed the speedo still worked, it just stopped outputting the digital signal for the PCM. W/O swapping them into a running vehicle i cant guarantee they work 100%.

I have a 2wd E4OD for parts, but i dont think the solenoid pack is in there anymore.

I probably have the MLPS, TPS and MAP. IAT would be in the lower intake and they get carboned up pretty bad, so i might have a used one in an intake in the garage (most likely the one off that very 97 F250), but odds are its all carboned up. Doubtful i have a used VSS or the pigtail for it but thats an easy one to get from the junkyard if you dont want to get them new.

Id have to rummage thru some boxes to see if i have the pigtails for any/all of these. I have some junk harnesses i was stripping for parts, its possible i have some.

if you need an OD cancel button then id probably use the one for the 89-91 trucks since its a button on the dash instead of on the stalk and would be easier to retrofit. But i dont have any spares of those i dont think.
 
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Provience said:
edit: after looking up some parts new/used/ebay online, it looks like the PSOM and shift solenoids run a hundred+ apiece, and easily 300 each, whereas a pre-92 PCM can be had for $100 and down. Unless you've got all the stuff and are willing to toss it into a flat rate box for very cheap, I will keep looking for an earlier one. I appreciate the offer though!!
Click to expand...

Saw your edit after i posted, but id agree that the 89-91 PCM would be an easier retrofit.
 
reptillikus said:
Saw your edit after i posted, but id agree that the 89-91 PCM would be an easier retrofit.
Click to expand...
if it is super easy and zero effort, post up the numbers from your 4.9 PCM and i'll do what I can to dig up a year and options for you on it.

I'm now convinced that it is highly unlikely to get a 92+ gas PCM E4OD swap done for cheaper than a quick 4 controller :laughing:
 
PXL_20231202_161929068.jpg


Not the most useful sticker, which is why im guessing its a reman. I suppose i could slice it open later and see if theres anything inside the case thatll help ID it.

Every other PCM i have is either OBD-II, or for a C6/manual.
 
Had to get pre-winter maintenance wrapped up this weekend, blew most of two days wrenching.

Anything susceptible to corrosion just gets painted with water resistant mill grease now.

IMG_20231119_143858153.jpg



Front shocks may have been original to the truck, who knows... They definitely put up a fight, had to cut everything. Would have used a torch but might have burned the truck down. Cheapest shocks possible got thrown on, have to be better than what was there.


Brake hose end line was almost rotted through, replaced that before it went.

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Knocked the rotors clean and hit them with the grinder. Here's a shot of rust that literally formed over night.

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Wheels are getting pretty thin, gotta keep 'em coated too.

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Gave in and made a stainless exhaust. Glass packs fo life.

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One wheel arch was coming loose, good thing is once you get enough bondo in there it doesn't rust as fast.

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Mint. Sanded it down with 60 grit then primered.

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Made a mistake and decided to pull the carpet back on the passenger side. :shaking: Should have known better, once you find a hull breach from the outside, it's bound to be much worse inside. Door frame still seems pretty solid, but could explain whit it wont always latch if parked on a hill.


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Had actually ordered a drivers side floor pan a while back, but thought the passenger side was good. Too late to get one now, went to the scrap pile and got a piece of dehumidifier and snowmobile bulkhead to patch it. Road signs are hard to come by, and I just wasn't that concerned about doing it right. Coated everything with grease before screwing it together.

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Floor mat is now structural. Good to go!

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Also applied a gallon of groil undercoating to everything.
 
toocheaptosmoke said:
Had to get pre-winter maintenance wrapped up this weekend, blew most of two days wrenching.

Anything susceptible to corrosion just gets painted with water resistant mill grease now.



Front shocks may have been original to the truck, who knows... They definitely put up a fight, had to cut everything. Would have used a torch but might have burned the truck down. Cheapest shocks possible got thrown on, have to be better than what was there.


Brake hose end line was almost rotted through, replaced that before it went.



Knocked the rotors clean and hit them with the grinder. Here's a shot of rust that literally formed over night.
Wheels are getting pretty thin, gotta keep 'em coated too.



Gave in and made a stainless exhaust. Glass packs fo life.


One wheel arch was coming loose, good thing is once you get enough bondo in there it doesn't rust as fast.



Mint. Sanded it down with 60 grit then primered.





Made a mistake and decided to pull the carpet back on the passenger side. :shaking: Should have known better, once you find a hull breach from the outside, it's bound to be much worse inside. Door frame still seems pretty solid, but could explain whit it wont always latch if parked on a hill.




Had actually ordered a drivers side floor pan a while back, but thought the passenger side was good. Too late to get one now, went to the scrap pile and got a piece of dehumidifier and snowmobile bulkhead to patch it. Road signs are hard to come by, and I just wasn't that concerned about doing it right. Coated everything with grease before screwing it together.




Floor mat is now structural. Good to go!



Also applied a gallon of groil undercoating to everything.
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Jesus Fuck that looks miserable:barf::rasta:

Are you the guy with the Youtube channel toocheaptosmoke?
CDA 455 II said:
Also added 40% radiator cover:
20231202_141910.jpg
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Whats the cover for? Faster warmup?
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Jesus Fuck that looks miserable:barf::rasta:

Are you the guy with the Youtube channel toocheaptosmoke?
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Yes, it is miserable and frustrating watching vehicles fall apart despite your best efforts... This truck is pretty much the only thing driven during winter so it takes the brunt of everything. And believe it or not it does occasionally get washed, I even tried spraying salt neutralizer on it in the spring. And yeah that's me on youtbe, haha
 
CDA 455 II said:
Keep the engine warm/running temp while driving.

With no A/C condenser in front of radiator and cold weather (30°), the engine doesn't stay warm while driving.
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You have a thermostat problem. Try replacing it. It's a $20 and 1hr project. Boil the new thermostat before install to prove that it works right.
 
toocheaptosmoke said:
Yes, it is miserable and frustrating watching vehicles fall apart despite your best efforts... This truck is pretty much the only thing driven during winter so it takes the brunt of everything. And believe it or not it does occasionally get washed, I even tried spraying salt neutralizer on it in the spring. And yeah that's me on youtbe, haha
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Fucking depressing,

Thats cool, I've watched alot of your stuff, Found you when Zipties/bias plys plugged you
 
arse_sidewards said:
You have a thermostat problem. Try replacing it. It's a $20 and 1hr project. Boil the new thermostat before install to prove that it works right.
Click to expand...
Installing a 180* thermostat is one of my distant projects.

So you think not having the A/C condenser in front of the radiator makes no difference?
Is it a coincidence that started happening this year as the temps started getting colder?🤔

Observation:
My old '99.5 F-350 PS cooled opposite of how the Bronco now cools in Winter.
Said F-350 could idle in Winter all day long and not reach operational temp., but once it's driven rises to operational temp.
While the Bronco will get to operational temp when idling, yet temp will drop when driven.

Cool starry bra:
When I got stranded in the backcountry mountains during the Winter of '03 I let the F-350 idle all night.
During the night I woke up cold; the heater wasn't putting out heat because the engine wasn't warm.
I dug out my 'mechanic assistant' pedal-pusher and applied it to the diesel pedal setting the RPM at 1,200RPM.
Engine got warm/heater began blowing heat/cabin got warm/profit.:grinpimp:
 
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CDA 455 II said:
Installing a 180* thermostat is one of my distant projects.
Click to expand...
You want a 195. The computer needs to see the engine get up to temp in order to do computer things properly.

A lower thermostat doesn't increase the cooling ability of the system. What is does do is let your engine be a few degrees colder when loaded below the system's capacity so if you're running some 700hp monster of an engine in a tiny little car and can barely make it to the end of the drag race without overheating then that might buy you the little extra margin you need to make a better pass. Basically it's not really relevant for what you're doing.

CDA 455 II said:
So you think not having the A/C condenser in front of the radiator makes no difference?
Click to expand...
On a stock 351 it's gonna make little to no difference unless it was so plugged up with dirt and whatnot that it was mimicking the same effect as the thing you've stuck on there to block the air.
CDA 455 II said:
Is it a coincidence that started happening this year as the temps started getting colder?🤔
Click to expand...
Reduced ambient temperature increases cooling. If the thermostat isn't closing fully or is opening partway at lukewarm temps then cooler air in the winter can be the difference between the engine being able to stay cool at that part-open amount of flow vs "overheating" up to the thermostat's normal open point or thereabouts.

CDA 455 II said:
While the Bronco will get to operational temp when idling, yet temp will drop when driven.
Click to expand...
Because the thermostat is flowing when it shouldn't be. Non issue at idle but when you get the truck moving and the fan spinning and air being forced in the grill more it moves enough air to never really warm up.
 
He right, bad or stuck t-stat sounds like issue.

I Ran a 302 and 300 with rad only no condenser, with and without fan shroud. Never had problem with warmup in teens *F.

180 t-stat will not play nice with stock EEC, I think open loop is set around 177*? so youll be in and out of that running rich.
 
I thought it was 175. But yeah, too close for comfort.

If a thermostat doesn't fix it I'll muddy the waters further with an experience I had with my old F150.

Let's just say there's a reason I said to boil the new one to make sure it's not opening when the water is just warm.
 
It's been about 7 years since the last thermostat replacement; so that sounds about right, needing a new one.🤔

And I'll stick to OEM 195* thermostat.✔️:grinpimp:
 
CDA 455 II said:
Installing a 180* thermostat is one of my distant projects.

So you think not having the A/C condenser in front of the radiator makes no difference?
Is it a coincidence that started happening this year as the temps started getting colder?🤔
Click to expand...
AC condensor means nothing. And yes... getting colder is when you see issues with it not warming. You have a thermostat issue. And frankly, your "blocker" looks horrible.
 
I thought my 78 just ran cold until I replaced my heater core, made sure I had the right thermostat, and ensured my gauges were accurate. My guess is your heater core/related plumbing.
 
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