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What did you do for your ford today?

Trying to fix the lumbar on the OBS….

From what I can tell, both driver and passenger run off same circuit…

Passenger works fine.

Driver - nothing.

Pulled seat. Putting 12v to the lines - switch and pump work fine.

Broken wire between fuse and driver’s seat? I’m not a 12v dc person, so type slow and use small words…
 
rockota said:
Trying to fix the lumbar on the OBS….

From what I can tell, both driver and passenger run off same circuit…

Passenger works fine.

Driver - nothing.

Pulled seat. Putting 12v to the lines - switch and pump work fine.

Broken wire between fuse and driver’s seat? I’m not a 12v dc person, so type slow and use small words…
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If it works when you go direct, time to start tracing wires from the seat to the fuse panel.

Probably a broke wire or a bad connector under the carpet
 
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Really like the Carter carb design from a tailgate rebuild stand point, not so much for the tip in lean miss.

Finally quit idling right a couple days ago, then fixed itself Friday. Guess it was passing a kidney stone :rasta: poor bowls has decent amounts of gel from bad fuel and it cleaned out with 2 distinct colors.

Cleaned and back sitting atop the engine just with the kid telling me it was time to go to the trick or treat fest in town. Going to hook it up tomorrow and see if it's smoothed back out all the way.

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Provience said:
If it works when you go direct, time to start tracing wires from the seat to the fuse panel.

Probably a broke wire or a bad connector under the carpet
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That’s what I suspected. Crap. Pulling seats and carpet’s gonna suck.

Guess I should order a bunch of sound dreading materials if I’m ripping the interior out…
 
rockota said:
That’s what I suspected. Crap. Pulling seats and carpet’s gonna suck.

Guess I should order a bunch of sound dreading materials if I’m ripping the interior out…
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I'll bet you don't have to pull all the carpet, once the seat is out check the plug connections. If they look good, grab the multimeter and check the ground and +12v wires continuity from the plug back to wherever the next joint is, possibly near the fuse box. If it is bad, only then would you need to see what it looks like under the carpet
 
Provience said:
20231028_122013.jpg


20231028_122653.jpg



Really like the Carter carb design from a tailgate rebuild stand point, not so much for the tip in lean miss.

Finally quit idling right a couple days ago, then fixed itself Friday. Guess it was passing a kidney stone :rasta: poor bowls has decent amounts of gel from bad fuel and it cleaned out with 2 distinct colors.

Cleaned and back sitting atop the engine just with the kid telling me it was time to go to the trick or treat fest in town. Going to hook it up tomorrow and see if it's smoothed back out all the way.

20231028_124209.jpg
Click to expand...
Try summit carb
 
Provience said:
If it works when you go direct, time to start tracing wires from the seat to the fuse panel.

Probably a broke wire or a bad connector under the carpet
Click to expand...
wiring fine. both switches now working. both pumps making noise... guessing the driver's bag is dry rotted, which seems a common problem.
 
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This battery is high maintenance:laughing:

Chance it may freeze tonight, lifepo4 will operate from -20c-70c however, it only wants to charge from 0c-50c. The BMS will handle the high temp cutoff, but not the low temp.

Don't have a great way to limit the charging to 0 or .1c or .05c to be safe for cold charging. Going to hookup a pet heating mat, it's either 30 or 50w only, that my wife was going to return. Figure if I set set it up on a timer and run it for 2 or 3 hours before leaving it should have enough time to get above 32*F by the time I need to fire off the truck.



But it idles like it should now :laughing:
 
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TrikeKid said:
That sounds super inconvenient compared to a regular ol' lead acid bat-tree.
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Extremely.

Which is why I'm glad to be dealing with all this using a 50ah in the truck rather than finding out after buying a much bigger one and having it in the RV.

I'd still like to do it for thr RV, but I'll have a whole bunch more to prep it and take care of all this up front

Edit: to buy this 50ah battery and this cheap heating pad and an extension cord and a programmable outlet timer, it would be equal to a reputable group 31 lead acid with nearly the same usable AH rating. Of course it is cold during holiday light season, hence why I did end up buying another extension cord and timer :laughing:
 
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CDA 455 II said:
I'm poor; I use my charger to keep my battery warm.🤔:idea:
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I normally just don't do anything,but this way I can just unplug it or drive away and it will unplug itself, without opening the hood every morning

Edit: well, and also, the bms in the lifepo4 battery won't let it take a float charge, it goes until it hits cutoff, then cuts off. Without a decent drain, it wouldn't keep accepting the charge as it doesn't vent heat the way lead acid does
 
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My motorcycle battery is still in the garage and fresh off the charger, using it to dual up this old battery and see if it will hold a charge, and probably go ahead and see if the a couple others I've got laying around will top up and pass a load test.

Just went to fold up the tailgate, hit the switch to raise it up and the aux battery went into protection mode :homer: fucker shouldn't have been very low, shouldn't be asking for many amps with no load and should be well within the 100amp rated discharge.

Tried something, not sure it's going to be a long term solution:laughing:
 
rockota said:
wiring fine. both switches now working. both pumps making noise... guessing the driver's bag is dry rotted, which seems a common problem.
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Check the bracket that holds the bag in place. They are only tack welded onto the seat frame. My driver side had the weld break. The bag would fill but it was pushing to front and back and you can't feel it.
 
Spent 2 hours Saturday morning scrubbing the inside of the frame rails where the tanks go with a wire toothbrush. Knocking years of dirt and surface rust out. Got it painted with one coat of rust o leum frame paint and one coat of rattle can. Got the new rear tank and skids mounted up.

Probably start on the outside of the frame rails under the bed this week.
 
USMC Gunny said:
Check the bracket that holds the bag in place. They are only tack welded onto the seat frame. My driver side had the weld break. The bag would fill but it was pushing to front and back and you can't feel it.
Click to expand...

Was reading about that earlier.

And it is likely, given how far back the seat center has sunk.

And sounds like a pita to fix
 
Shot the RockAuto parts cannon at the latest fleet addition- a 2010 Escape 3.0L AWD for my daughter. First task is slowing the oil leak(s) with timing cover, valve cover, oil pan, upper & lower intake manifold, and throttle body gaskets. A bad alternator killed battery cells, so replacing both of those. Also replacing upper, lower, and bypass coolant hoses along with the t-stat, water pump belt, belt drive, tensioner, plugs, and coils.

I was somewhat surprised to learn the passenger side engine mount is integrated in to the timing cover.

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rockota said:
Was reading about that earlier.

And it is likely, given how far back the seat center has sunk.

And sounds like a pita to fix
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If you have a welder, it is an easy fix. Just weld the bracket back in place.
 
I think i am overthinking the use of mine, still learning it after bleeding my yj, 97 f350 and yj again.

Def more seamless with the screw on top masters
 
Thought I had a small exhaust leak about a week ago, Halloween meant I didn't want to crawl under and check things.

Today it got a bunch worse. Wife came outside when I got home and says "does it have any oil?" Welll....apparently not enough :laughing: it's a pretty sweet rocker tick and a few quarts low

Sitting for almost 9 months has not been kind to my valve cover/intake/oil pan gaskets.

Get to drive the wife's car of shame tomorrow to work and buy a case of oil on the way home
 
Provience said:
Thought I had a small exhaust leak about a week ago, Halloween meant I didn't want to crawl under and check things.

Today it got a bunch worse. Wife came outside when I got home and says "does it have any oil?" Welll....apparently not enough :laughing: it's a pretty sweet rocker tick and a few quarts low

Sitting for almost 9 months has not been kind to my valve cover/intake/oil pan gaskets.

Get to drive the wife's car of shame tomorrow to work and buy a case of oil on the way home
Click to expand...
Made me think of this

 
Wasn't today, but I figure two weekends ago is close enough. Replaced the cab mounts on my 2016 F350 with S&B Silicone mount kit. Should have done it sooner, everything is so much quieter without clunking and grinding noises.

The 2008 to 2016 model years of Superdutys used crap insulators that break down to almost like foam consistency. Seems vehicles in warm and/or sunny climates are worse off, but it happens to all of them.

My tips to make the job easier;
Get yourself an induction heating tool and cook the bolts red hot for a few cycles. I used a Bolt Buster 1800watt version, but there are cheaper ones.
DO NOT USE an impact gun; Just use a long handled breaker bar or ratchet and arm power.
S&B kit includes everything except the captive nuts (which spin if you don't do the 1st two tips and are a chore to replace)
 
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