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What did you do for your ford today?

I'd bleed it the normal way.

I think old hoses sometimes keep the fluid from flowing properly under low/no pressure. I've had several trucks that need to be on and have the booster doing shit in order to bleed them. I wouldn't be surprised if that's indicative of hoses about to fail but I've never had any come back (and they were friends/family shit so I'd hear about it). :homer:
 
Here is a psa
This is oem ferd shoes for my 93 towpig.
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This is Oh' Reallies
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What you cannot see is the actuator had ridden up over the shoe at the pivot:shaking: point...
Remember when cores were used so they had the correct fitment, and just put new linnings on?

Not 1 local vendor had a shoe that was correct
Spent the day welding up the e brake pawl gizmo.
So check that dragging brake and or shitty e brake issue boys...
Props to garbage mech @ obn:flipoff2:
 
I'd bleed it the normal way.

I think old hoses sometimes keep the fluid from flowing properly under low/no pressure. I've had several trucks that need to be on and have the booster doing shit in order to bleed them. I wouldn't be surprised if that's indicative of hoses about to fail but I've never had any come back (and they were friends/family shit so I'd hear about it). :homer:
I bled the front brakes the normal way with the 'mechanics assistant':
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Overall:
No real improvement in brake pedal pressure quality.

The best improvement in said brake pedal pressure quality was after I gravity-bled the rear brakes.
 
I bled the front brakes the normal way with the 'mechanics assistant':
1696704518471.png


Overall:
No real improvement in brake pedal pressure quality.

The best improvement in said brake pedal pressure quality was after I gravity-bled the rear brakes.
Does that rear sterling axle have disc brakes? I wonder if the calipers are just so big it’s causing the spongy feeling. Not sure if you would have to upgrade your master cylinder or add hydroboost or what to remedy it.
 
Does that rear sterling axle have disc brakes? I wonder if the calipers are just so big it’s causing the spongy feeling. Not sure if you would have to upgrade your master cylinder or add hydroboost or what to remedy it.
Drums (8.8 on the right) :
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The brake issues started when I replaced the factory original front brake hoses with longer SS braided ones.
 
Cleaned and lubricated the door hold open spurs, rotated the heavily worn spot away. Doors close significantly smoother now.

Couple with door cards and it is much quieter now. Fixing the floors is going to be the last major source of noise, progress is progress.
 
Hub seals and brakes on a 10.25"

Started as filling a low tire, realized it was needing repair so pulled it.
Which was a waste of time and $$, SHOP JUST JAMMED A TEMPORARY rope plug in it.🤬

Notice brake drum is damp, and very loose on the shoes. Brakes felt "meh" but my other pickup to compare against is a 10 year newer 2 ton.

Had a shop do the brakes last year, less than 1000 miles ago. (Was there for trans work so was a while you're at it as I was gone at work. Old shoes had unbonded)


Hub seal leaking and drum is full of gear oil goop.
Other side was just starting to leak but they misadjusted the shoes and they were maybe 30%. Drum definitely got hot.

I'm pretty much done with shops, almost always a waste of time and money and just leaves me pissed
 
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I bet rhey put the shitty parts store style seal in, i hate people
They didn't touch the seals. I find it hard to believe there weren't at least signs of it seeping at that point, but maybe not. Was the factory seal.

Other side was aftermarket seal. Wasn't leaking, but signs of seeping, so replaced it.
Gave me a chance to drain the hubs of driveway sealer looking gear oil too.

Noticed while under,, the D60 is leaking at the driver's side diff seal too. Not sure why, hardly ever use 4wd.
 
I'm gunna answer that later, I'll tag you on it.
Probably get the install kit.
The film is sub $20 @ oreally's
 

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Clean the glass first.
Biggest thing is a real supple squeegee, You may get away with a business card if it doesn't have any sharp edges. cause your scratching the film using A hard edge..
Keep everything nice and wet the glass and the outside edge of the film outside face that you're squeeging on you can use your fingers flat edge works better. For adhering it in place And. pushing bubbles you're trying to get the film As Flat on the glass As possible.

Once you ascertain the size you want it rough cut from setting it on the outside of the glass.
Then take it on the inside and Set it in place trim your final shape that you want then.
, you peel the membrane Off. the liner as they call it. Here's a trick. to separating The film., take 2. pieces of scotch tape one on either side. This will give you a handle 2. Peel off of. soak down With soapy water. It comes in the install Kit. Which You probably should get, at least look at it and copy what's in there. otherwise you can use baby shampoo...
You can use A silicone baking sheet ,cutting board , Etc. That. you can cut and make a squeegee.
The soap acts as a lubricant to shift the film where you want it once you get it where you need it then you work from center mass out To The edges to keep keep the bubbles worked from center out. any bubble you see will stay there forever.
Some guys will work from bottom-up.
You're trying to work the bubbles out every single one of them. You want a supersharp New razor blade Or? an Exacto Knife or pen knife so you don't tear or pull the film. The section of film between the liner and the film has the adhesive on it keep your fingers off it. Once you're done eliminating bubbles and you have it where you want keep it in the shade and a cool area till it's dry give it. Like a day don't use amonia cleaner.
You wanna have just a mild detergent to wash Otherwise it'll streak it.
Sorry about The voice editor Software Making this Read strangely.
CDA 455 II

CLEAN THE GLASS WITH NON AMONIA CLEANER
 
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