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What did you do for your ford today?

Replaced the radiator cap:
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Also replaced burned out driver side headlight bulb.
 
Why? What’s the goal?
Backstory:
Three years ago when I swapped in the 1ton axle, I moved said axle back 5".
That created a shallower angle for the shocks:
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so I added OEM upper shock mounts to recover said angle:
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Fast forward to this month;
I lowered the suspension causing concern with the longer 1ton shocks bottoming out.
So I moved the 1ton shocks to the factory original shock mounts (extending shocks).

Knowing shallow-mounted shocks have decreased efficiency; I decided to mount the Bronco (1/2ton) shocks to the added upper shock mounts and lower long bolt.

So far I like how it's handling; going over dips the rear leaf springs are less 'springy' because shock set up only allows 1 to 1.5 rebounds.
My OCD demands that I check suspension/shock droop relation.

I'm looking at these axle shock mounts to properly mount AND move lower shock mounts outward as suggested by a member here:
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But the bottom line to answer your question:
Said experiment didn't cost me any money and I'm retired and have nothing but time.
 
It has a DC joint, it's slightly out of phase, probably trying to reduce vibrations.
BINGO!! WEINER WEINER, CHICKEN DEENER!:laughing::beer:
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It's out of phase because I turned the driveline side in order to unbolt from the CV side when I regreasing the slip joint.
Forgot to take in account proper phase line up when I bolted everything back up.
 
When I originally got the truck I had to rip out all the wiring due to a million different splices and dead wires everywhere. In the process I got rid of everything I thought I didn't need, guess that included my trailer harness wiring. So I installed the new one again. No big deal just glad to not have rain pouring on me while I'm doing it.
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New front springs, shocks, and bushings on the 67 Bronco. 2.5" lift. Next trip out will be the rear leaves/shackles/shocks to finish the suspension. Then one day of checking everything over before it's ready to drive home.


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The 78 F150 got a new electrical Bosch cheapo gauge. The copper-line version stopped working but before that seemed be inconsistent and inaccurate. With a working coolant temp gauge and the AFR gauge I can observe the eefects of the EGR valve opening after warm-up like it's supposed to.
 
Had to tear out the drivers seat and lower the shit out of it. Took it as low as I could and still have the controls on it function. Much better sitting position now. One day I will take the passenger seat out and do the same.
 
I’ve been chasing some drivability issues in the eb. I decided that the leaking intake manifold might have a vacuum leak so off came the upper and lower manifold. I was interrupted to go help a buddy work on his Scout, so it might be a slow process.
 

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I pulled the OBS out of the barn for the first time in 6 months yesterday.

Let it run for a bit. Kicked out a check engine light… glow plug monitor or something like that.

Drive it 500’ and parked it. 😀
 
I'm moving at the end of the month and instead of moving all the individual parts I put the truck back together as much as possible. Mounted the two fuel tanks, bumpers, it's funny that the hood, both fenders, bed, and cab all came from different trucks but body panel wise it's mostly rust free.

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