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What did you do for your ford today?

Drove the Bronco to the storage unit.


nOOB question:
Does the Bronco's 5.0L engine know or care if it's doing 3,000RPM down a city street at 35MPH or a freeway doing 65MPH?
Meaning; 'blowing out the carbon' via high RPMs while driving on the street (carbon=stop and go/low RPMs), vs freeway miles.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Drove the Bronco to the storage unit.


nOOB question:
Does the Bronco's 5.0L engine know or care if it's doing 3,000RPM down a city street at 35MPH or a freeway doing 65MPH?
Meaning; 'blowing out the carbon' via high RPMs while driving on the street (carbon=stop and go/low RPMs), vs freeway miles.
Click to expand...
3000rpm and high load is going to be better than 3000rpm low load.

Hook up a heavy trailer and hit the highway.
 
arse_sidewards said:
3000rpm and high load is going to be better than 3000rpm low load.

Hook up a heavy trailer and hit the highway.
Click to expand...
Ah; Ok.

Side note;
Back in '18 I did exactly that helping a buddy move up to ID from CA.
I towed an overloaded 12' UHaul trailer 1,000 miles in 2nd gear at 50 to 55MPH (3,500 to 4,500RPMs) the whole way.
1677769643233.jpeg



I had about 210,000+ miles on the Bronco/5.0L at the time.
 
Finally did the passenger cab corner, dicking around in the shop I found a spot under hood for the viair compressor I was given. That had something like a 1/2 gallon tank with it, I found this old 5 gallon portable air tank. Mocking it up on the frame rail, need to figure out how to mount it. I was considering mounting it with the bung pointed down to drain water, but it looks like it'll hang dumb low with a tee and pipe cap. Dunno yet.
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Going on an ice trip tomorrow up Ghostpine river, have to travel 30miles to get there, blew off Octobers dust and seeing the ice is sorta breaking up I put on the appropriate cut through it set o tars, will chain up rear when we get there.
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holdmypocket said:
Helped my buddy get the SAS explorer ready for United by Bronco in Sand Hollow this week. Decided not to take his Bronco because the weather, 4 doors/windows and a heater are hard to pass up. That meant taking the bead locks from the Bronco and putting them on this thing, clearancing the fenders, and ironing out some little issues. This thing just plain works well like an EB with a longer wheelbase and full width axles: New video by Charles Howard

I helped our mutual friend do this solid axle swap back in 2016.. he figured it all out and I just stuck the metal pieces together (he's passed away since then and my buddy had acquired it some time between all that) so it makes me happy to see it getting used: 78 Bronco axles 5.13, Detroit Front, Full Spool rear, 37" tires, James Duff long arms, 5.0/E4OD/Early Bronco D20.

On my 78 F150 I got the pulleys installed, AC compressor mounted, and the saginaw pump on, and only then realized I'll need a different high pressure hose (that's on order from Wild Horses). Slowly but surely in between all this rain we're getting.
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You probably got your ps hose by now, but if you ever needed one in a pinch...e series van used the Saginaw pump and the ford steering box, the pressure hose is on the shelf at parts stores, just bend the hard line as needed
 
I actually bought hose, AN fittings, and whatnot to learn how make one, just haven’t had a chance to get in there yet. It’s going to be a weird shaped hose because the two ports are so close together but facing wonky directions. The Vintage air ps pump/compressor bracket I have makes the pump sit outboard toward the drivers side more and lower than most other brackets from what I can tell. I’ll look that van hose up to get an idea of shape/routing.
 
Installed a Warn ascent bumper and Rigid lights on the tow pig. Moved the factory Warn 12k winch to the bumper and found out the factory Ford Warn winch uses a narrower bolt pattern than standard. Couldn’t find any info on it on Warns website, I had assumed it was a standard 12k Warn…That’s what I get for assuming
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FIgured out the wiring to put 04 excursion seats in my 97. Got all the movement buttons to work. Now gonna order seat heaters and seat covers and then try to refresh my brain on how to get them installed.
 
Bought and installed a topper for $100. Deciding if I want to keep it or not. Of course it is missing the rear glass and the frame is bent. Not finding much info on it online. I'll probably try to remove the rear hatch frame to straighten it out and take it to a glass place to see if they can cut some glass to put back in it. Otherwise some plywood will do just fine.
 
Finally made the pressure hose out of stainless braided and AN fittings for my Saginaw conversion on the 78 F150. None of the off-the-shelf hoses work because of the Vintage Air brackets I'm using; an uncommon configuration.

Anyway, I was surprised at how straightforward it was to build the hose. One of the tips I read was when inserting the male fitting into the hose you should put a piece of tape on the hose to see if it moves as you tighten the fitting. I forgot to do this on one of the ends so if it's going to leak I guess it'll do it there.

Kind of a pricey endeavor to get started: I bought the Koul Tool for -6 AN fittings, several different fittings with swivel ends and different angles (this was the main cost), hose, hose cutter, assembly lube (probably didn't need this).. but at least I don't have to go to the hose shop anymore and deal with that crabby old bastard when I need something made.

I know the routing is goofy but the two ports that need to mate are less than 5 inches apart and pointing in weird directions/angles even with the swivel ends. This is also temporary because I'll be T-ing in a line for hydroboost later this year.

IMG_2724.jpg

Didn't finish the job and hook everything up because I need to replace my rubber fuel line, measure for v-belts, and too many distractions at the house today. :shaking:
 
CDA 455 II said:
Can you do a build thread on it?
I'm thinking of going this route as well.

What motor is it bolted to?
Click to expand...
460, small block is the same as far as everything you’ll need, small block ZF5, pedal assembly, modify or swap column, shorten/lengthen drive shafts (E4od is longer) the wiring and computer can be reused, basically a bolt in swap, easiest way is having a donor vehicle, will look more factory that way and less modification
 
Buckthis said:
460, small block is the same as far as everything you’ll need, small block ZF5, pedal assembly, modify or swap column, shorten/lengthen drive shafts (E4od is longer) the wiring and computer can be reused, basically a bolt in swap, easiest way is having a donor vehicle, will look more factory that way and less modification
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info.:beer:

I ordered my old '99.5 XL with a ZF6/PS diesel.
Loved the 50:1 drive ratio.:smokin:

I'm learning if I want my ideal final drive ratio of 100-150:1 I need to return to a stick.

What's your T-case?
Do you know if the 351 shares the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 460?
 
CDA 455 II said:
What's your T-case?
Do you know if the 351 shares the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the 460?
Click to expand...

Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, bronco is a fixed yoke, pickup is a slip yoke

Big block and small block are different bell housings

Big block is external slave cylinder
Small block is internal slave cylinder
 
Ripped out 3/4 of the carpet along with the center console and the passenger seat. Figured out how to mount the excursion seat to the base of the old seat. Gonna test out the placement tonite of it. Since I am using the old base it is going to bolt right in. Just need to figure out if it is "centered" front to back or I need to cut some shit and adjust it a little. Will get a pic tonite of the new seat in.

Next up is sound deadening and i gotta order some new carpet after I get the color samples.
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Passenger seat is fitted, gonna leave it where its at. Damm thing sits way higher then stock. I have a shelf above the mirror and my line of sight is just below the shelf. Used the electric lumbar wiring to power the seat. Everything works. Took it back out to weld up the steel bar between the new seat mount and the old seat slider. Gonna tear the plastic off the seat and paint it gray to kinda match the original color. Seat covers will be here Saturday.


20230321_170856.jpg
 
USMC Gunny said:
Passenger seat is fitted, gonna leave it where its at. Damm thing sits way higher then stock. I have a shelf above the mirror and my line of sight is just below the shelf. Used the electric lumbar wiring to power the seat. Everything works. Took it back out to weld up the steel bar between the new seat mount and the old seat slider. Gonna tear the plastic off the seat and paint it gray to kinda match the original color. Seat covers will be here Saturday.


20230321_170856.jpg
Click to expand...
I use a mid-'90s truck bench in my Bronco that sits high; even with a collapsed seat.
1679496222952.jpeg


What's interesting I like the collapsed seat because I sit low enough where my head is protected by the headrest (against whiplash).
On the passenger side the headrest touches the back of my neck.
 
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