![[486]](https://data.irate4x4.com/avatars/m/0/94.jpg?1700178133){kind=avatar}
[486]
the retard, himself
you're really something special, aren't you?
ETA: bolt it on there
grab it and apply force
ETA: bolt it on there
grab it and apply force
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
Pull, gently. I'd only bother moving it enough to clear the bleeder.I'm a chicken shit to do it.
How would I do that without damaging the tube?
Tearing it from the block or pinching the tube.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
holdmypocket
nil
Not that you need it for what we’re telling you to do (you really don’t) but if you really want to proceed carefully Eastwood Brake Line Tubing Forming Tool PliersI'm president of the nOOBs club, N. West region.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Thanks for the suggestion/link.
The tube in question is not the same material as the bendable brake tubing.
It's the same material as the factory tubing at the banjo bolt block; appears to be very thick/stiff-walled tubing.
What I fear is the tube being damaged at the banjo bolt block while I'm attempting to straighten it.
Maybe I'll practice on the old brake line.🤔
F***roads
Well-known member
Shave down that shoulder on the block and rotate, done.Thanks for the suggestion/link.
The tube in question is not the same material as the bendable brake tubing.
It's the same material as the factory tubing at the banjo bolt block; appears to be very thick/stiff-walled tubing.
What I fear is the tube being damaged at the banjo bolt block while I'm attempting to straighten it.
Maybe I'll practice on the old brake line.🤔
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Yeah; that's the nOOB-safe solution I'm going to try.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
I'm currently soaking the hard line/brake line fittings because they're rust-frozen/stuck:
I'm using ATF/acetone solution as a rust-buster.
I'm using ATF/acetone solution as a rust-buster.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Finished the brake job.
I ended up shaving a little bit of the banjo block lip in order to rotate the hardline away from the bleeder valve.
I ended up shaving a little bit of the banjo block lip in order to rotate the hardline away from the bleeder valve.
78bronco460
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 23, 2020
- Member Number
- 1272
- Messages
- 450
I had safelite replace the cracked windshield on my 97 f150. After watching the tech do the job I’m glad I didn’t try it myself. Tricky job, especially for one guy.
planefixer
Global Warmer
Tore down the carb on my EB. Got the ancient gaskets scraped off and some of the cleaning done then got lazy and decided to finish the rebuild some other time.
holdmypocket
nil
78bronco460
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 23, 2020
- Member Number
- 1272
- Messages
- 450
I didn’t know they had a/c that year.Finished dismantling the interior of the 74 F250 cab.
Man I’m loving the sight of this every day
Wheelin66bronco
Pure Blood
A month or so ago, my 96 bronco spit out the front pump seal on the trans, actually the bushing moved forward until it touched the lip seal.
New parts came, staked and glued the bushing only to find out it was WAY to tight on the TC snout.
Ordered a front pump cover with machined in bushing.
Put it all together yesterday, started and shifted fine. Drove it to drop my kid off for a sleepover. Went to leave, won't go into gear.
Not sure how it drove 15 miles, but now won't move
I'm contemplating on if I left a rag in the filter pickup, but that doesn't explain how it drove fine, then stopped working.
Should be a fun day hauling it back in the snow....
New parts came, staked and glued the bushing only to find out it was WAY to tight on the TC snout.
Ordered a front pump cover with machined in bushing.
Put it all together yesterday, started and shifted fine. Drove it to drop my kid off for a sleepover. Went to leave, won't go into gear.
Not sure how it drove 15 miles, but now won't move
I'm contemplating on if I left a rag in the filter pickup, but that doesn't explain how it drove fine, then stopped working.
Should be a fun day hauling it back in the snow....
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
nOOB question:Finished the brake job.
I ended up shaving a little bit of the banjo block lip in order to rotate the hardline away from the bleeder valve.
When opening the bleeder valve; IS IT OPEN TO AIR THE NANO-SECOND I LOOSEN IT?
Or after a quarter turn/third turn/half turn?
I want to loosen/get it unstuck before I do the second bleed of the *whole system.
Prepare the bleeder valve before I do the actual bleed.
*Whole system: I only bled the front brakes because the rear bleeder valves were stuck, and didn't want to mess with them at that time.
Toreadorranger
Atomic Test Lab Rat
Just crack it and tighten it back up, it will be fine. There isn't any real pressure on the system without the pedal being depressed.
Wheelin66bronco
Pure Blood
Weeeeeeell fuck!A month or so ago, my 96 bronco spit out the front pump seal on the trans, actually the bushing moved forward until it touched the lip seal.
New parts came, staked and glued the bushing only to find out it was WAY to tight on the TC snout.
Ordered a front pump cover with machined in bushing.
Put it all together yesterday, started and shifted fine. Drove it to drop my kid off for a sleepover. Went to leave, won't go into gear.
Not sure how it drove 15 miles, but now won't move
I'm contemplating on if I left a rag in the filter pickup, but that doesn't explain how it drove fine, then stopped working.
Should be a fun day hauling it back in the snow....
The trans shop that I bought the pump cover from sent it to me with the pump gear backwards. They didn't mark the gear to keep it matched, so I don't know it the internal got reversed, or the external side, or the whole thing.
I should have inspected it, but they should have sent it in the cover correct.
Provience
Kill!
Door speakers in again
And apparently have sprung a fuel leak :sigh:
[486]
the retard, himself
eesh
engine's thrust bearings might not be happy either after that
Wheelin66bronco
Pure Blood
I know, that's my main concern.
I don't want to tear the whole fucker apart tho...
Probably throw it back together, flush it, and just know it'll need another full rebuild at some point. Trans only has 5k on it
Edit: I just re-read what you wrote. I missed "engine".
When I stabbed the trans, the TC still pulled forward 1/8" or so into the flex plate. Engine thrust bearings should be fine. I'm worried about all the trans thrust bearings and bushings. Nothing stopping all the aluminum from there, passes through the whole trans before hitting the filter.
Last edited:
[486]
the retard, himself
huh, wonder how the pump had something pushing against it to eat the pump housing then...
was thinking the two drive flats were offset to one side of the middle gear, assembled wrong way meant they bottomed out on the TC snout, you know?
reptillikus
ate lug
I didn't think you could install them upside down, I don't remember it mattering. Have to check the book when I get home from work.Weeeeeeell fuck!
The trans shop that I bought the pump cover from sent it to me with the pump gear backwards. They didn't mark the gear to keep it matched, so I don't know it the internal got reversed, or the external side, or the whole thing.
I should have inspected it, but they should have sent it in the cover correct.
Are you sure those are the right gears for the pump? 96 should be a F5 pump with the 10T outer pump gear if im not mistaken. Wish I took pics of the gears in my 96 when it was apart.
What's the casting number on the pump body? E9, F1, F5 or F8? Those are the only 4 revisions I know of, and I'm pretty sure F5 and F8 get the 10T pump instead of the 11T version.
There's some info about pump gears in the item description from Sonnax:
Sonnax Ford E4OD Pump Gears Oversized E40D 4R100 Automatic Transmission
Check out the deal on Sonnax Ford E4OD Pump Gears Oversized E40D 4R100 Automatic Transmission at Oregon Performance Transmission
www.oregonperformancetransmission.com
I've got a few books on the E4OD, I'll do some reading after work today.
Last edited:
Wheelin66bronco
Pure Blood
All I can guess is with the square edge of the pump gear forward, it had very light pressure from the TC bottoming out, that bevel only gains 1/8 maybe of insertion depth. The gear only ate into the pump between 1/32-1/16th. I could be wrong on pulling the TC into the flex plate while assembling, could have been a little pressure there, I don't recall it being abnormal assembly. When I stabbed the trans, I know it was all the way inserted, I didn't pull the trans into the engine with the bolts.
Wish it would have been that obvious that something was wrong.
Wheelin66bronco
Pure Blood
Thanks.I didn't think you could install them upside down, I don't remember it mattering. Have to check the book when I get home from work.
Are you sure those are the right gears for the pump? 96 should be a F5 pump with the 10T outer pump gear if im not mistaken. Wish I took pics of the gears in my 96 when it was apart.
What's the casting number on the pump body? E9, F1, F5 or F8? Those are the only 4 revisions I know of, and I'm pretty sure F5 and F8 get the 10T pump instead of the 11T version.
There's some info about pump gears in the item description from Sonnax:
Sonnax Ford E4OD Pump Gears Oversized E40D 4R100 Automatic Transmission
Check out the deal on Sonnax Ford E4OD Pump Gears Oversized E40D 4R100 Automatic Transmission at Oregon Performance Transmissionwww.oregonperformancetransmission.com
I've got a few books on the E4OD, I'll do some reading after work today.
Yes, F5. I didn't take any pictures of the F5 cover and gears I sent back as the core.
All I know for sure is the new cover was sent to me with the gears backwards, and I didn't catch it. The bevel on the flat sides goes towards the TC.
Special Ed
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2022
- Member Number
- 5674
- Messages
- 2
Squamch
Canadian
Ordered a weld it myself bumper from backdoorfab.
I will commission my brother the welder to weld it
, I'm a better welder than he is a carpenter, but he's a better welder than me.
I will commission my brother the welder to weld it
, I'm a better welder than he is a carpenter, but he's a better welder than me.
CDA 455 II
ANFAQUE2
Drove it for the first time since replacing the pivot bushings and installing longer brake lines.
Went to the storage unit/picked up my road bike build; I want to complete it this Winter/get it ready for the Spring.
Utilized both front hitches nicely
Went to the storage unit/picked up my road bike build; I want to complete it this Winter/get it ready for the Spring.
Utilized both front hitches nicely
welndmn
Well Done Man
WInch now installed behind the bumper.
Crankylove
Well-known member
Been daily driving it for the last week or so. Found out it needs a new water pump. Lost about a gallon of coolant in the last 3-4 days, and the pump sounds really unhappy. Hopefully I can get a new one in before the snow hits later this week, need to have this running in a few days to move with.