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What did you do for your ford today?

[486] said:
why not D50 knuckles?
recombobulating the lower ball joint on the beam ain't that big a deal, especially if you're doing a cut and turn at the same time
Click to expand...
6 of one, half a dozen of the other.
The Chevy parts is a pretty easy swap, you could do it in an afternoon. Depending on how you set it up you get the JB6 or JB7 brakes. Both are bigger than the half ton stuff, but the JB7 is bigger than the Ford D50/D60 caliper of that era.

I like the idea of the D50 ttb knuckle swap, but it's definitely more work.
 
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[486] said:
why not D50 knuckles?
recombobulating the lower ball joint on the beam ain't that big a deal, especially if you're doing a cut and turn at the same time
Click to expand...
Because I got the parts for like $100 back when I was in high school and it's just being slapped on a D35 as a stopgap.
 
Fixed the window in one, 1/4" rivets

20221015_143436.jpg




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Proof the window rolls down fully for the first time since I've owned it, slowly getting better.


Thrift store had this stereo for $25 today, too good of a deal to pass up :rasta: has a bunch of adjustability built into it and puts out enough power to match my 4"speakers and will let me run them on a high pass filter. All good things. Of course, just made a quick mount for it from aluminum plate and didn't bother to check it against the dash fascia, so it's a good bit sunk back :laughing:

20221015_170306.jpg


And finally cutting the whole for whatever it was this switch did

20221015_170311.jpg
 

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Crankylove said:
Should be a clip inside the pumpkin for the passenger side, no clip on the driver. I heard, that if you beat on the shaft end with a big enough hammer, it will force the shaft into the spider gear enough to pop the clip off the shaft, allowing for removal without fucking around with the third. The clip then falls to the bottom of the the third, and gets stuck in the sludge. You won’t won’t have a clip retaining the shaft when you reinstall the shaft, but, the D50 in my ‘86 has been fine that way for about 140,000 miles.
Click to expand...

I'm going to try this.🤔
 
changed the oil and plugged the vvt solenoids back in and cleared the codes, hopefully no more rattle at hot idle. next on the list was removing the mode door actuator, got it switched over to defrost/heat. now i have to order a mode door actuator.....or jus run with it as is
 
Tried to remove/replace the driver side front caliper bleed valve, but it's stuck/frozen.

Soaked it in Blaster.
Took vise grips to it/won't budge.
Thinking of taking a broken bolt extractor to it.

Suggestions?
 
CDA 455 II said:
Tried to remove/replace the driver side front caliper bleed valve, but it's stuck/frozen.

Soaked it in Blaster.
Took vise grips to it/won't budge.
Thinking of taking a broken bolt extractor to it.

Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Heat?
Have you seen the new (to me anyway) induction heaters?
 
CDA 455 II said:
Tried to remove/replace the driver side front caliper bleed valve, but it's stuck/frozen.

Soaked it in Blaster.
Took vise grips to it/won't budge.
Thinking of taking a broken bolt extractor to it.

Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Those suck pretty bad. Visegrips are a demo tool in my hands:laughing:

I've had pretty good luck trying to file the 6 edges straight-ish. Then I pound a beater 6 point socket on. You may be passed that point though.
 
74 F250 donor: finally got the rear axle and front suspension out in one piece, then moved the frame to the side of the house.

Now that the F250 frame and title is set aside for safe-keeping I can focus on:

67 Bronco: Moving this to my buddy's house (which is also in San Diego but easier to get to from here). I have it at my other buddy's shop where I've been working on it which has been awesome but driving down there after working all week and only being able to get a few hours in before they close isn't very efficient. At my buddy's house we'll work on it a whole Saturday and get shit done.

What's (roughly) left before I can drive it home:
  • change engine/tranny fluids
  • wire up dash stuff (gauge, ignition, headlights, etc)
  • install tcase shifter
  • steering wheel
  • run fuel line
  • install fuel tank
  • install brakebooster/master cylinder
  • bolt up steering box
  • put exhaust hangers on
  • new suspension/steering bushings and springs
  • rear drum stuff and bearings


Once the Bronco is running/driving/home.. I can FINALLY get back to 1-ton swap for the 78 F150. For that I still need to buy hydroboost, brake rotors/hoses, new front lift coils, and WFO's drag-link kit.

Man I'm glad I don't have kids or I'd be in big trouble with the way I spend money on these old Fords.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Tried to remove/replace the driver side front caliper bleed valve, but it's stuck/frozen.

Soaked it in Blaster.
Took vise grips to it/won't budge.
Thinking of taking a broken bolt extractor to it.

Suggestions?
Click to expand...
Ordered brand new Raybestos calipers.
Scheduled to arrive Weds.

Meanwhile;
Still waiting for JBG order (extended brake lines) to arrive...:mad3:
Ordered on the 11th/was scheduled to arrive on the 15th.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Ordered brand new Raybestos calipers.
Scheduled to arrive Weds.

Meanwhile;
Still waiting for JBG order (extended brake lines) to arrive...:mad3:
Ordered on the 11th/was scheduled to arrive on the 15th.
Click to expand...
Buy some boat trailer brake lines off Amazon and screw those into your stock ones.
 
Got the extended brake lines for the Bronco (from JBG) and I noticed the passenger side line has a 90* port in it.

In the pic below; the left inset pic shows the port.
WHAT IS IT FOR AND WHY IS IT THERE?
My factory original doesn't have it.
1666142171193.png
 
CDA 455 II said:
Got the extended brake lines for the Bronco (from JBG) and I noticed the passenger side line has a 90* port in it.

In the pic below; the left inset pic shows the port.
WHAT IS IT FOR AND WHY IS IT THERE?
My factory original doesn't have it.
1666142171193.png
Click to expand...
I'm guessing its to run the hardline over to the other side, instead of a separate distribution block. How does your stock setup split the lines to the front corners?
 
That's because your 94 is 4WABS. That line is for the trucks that have RABS. That special fitting keys into a hole in the coil bucket and the two hard lines for the front brakes thread into it. So it eliminates having a Tee on the frame rail.

I'm guessing you bought this brake line:
shop.broncograveyard.com

1990-1996 Ford Bronco & F-150 Truck Stainless Braided Front Axle Brake Lines - Broncograveyard.com

Crown Performance has developed a complete stainless steel braided performance brake line set to match your Ford's specs. These brake lines are designed to meet the Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Standard MVSS-106 (they are legal in all 50 states). Some of the outstanding features /...
shop.broncograveyard.com
But since you're 4WABS you probably could have bought this one instead:

shop.broncograveyard.com

1980-1989 Ford Bronco & F-150 Stainless Braided Front Axle B - Broncograveyard.com

Stainless steel front braided brake lines. D.O.T. approvedbr br Crown Performance has developed a complete stainless steel braided performance brake line set to match your Ford's specs. These brake lines are designed to meet the Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Standard MVSS-106 (they...
shop.broncograveyard.com


It doesn't really matter. Just plug that extra hole and it'll still work.
 
reptillikus said:
That's because your 94 is 4WABS. That line is for the trucks that have RABS. That special fitting keys into a hole in the coil bucket and the two hard lines for the front brakes thread into it. So it eliminates having a Tee on the frame rail.

I'm guessing you bought this brake line:
shop.broncograveyard.com

1990-1996 Ford Bronco & F-150 Truck Stainless Braided Front Axle Brake Lines - Broncograveyard.com

Crown Performance has developed a complete stainless steel braided performance brake line set to match your Ford's specs. These brake lines are designed to meet the Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Standard MVSS-106 (they are legal in all 50 states). Some of the outstanding features /...
shop.broncograveyard.com
But since you're 4WABS you probably could have bought this one instead:

shop.broncograveyard.com

1980-1989 Ford Bronco & F-150 Stainless Braided Front Axle B - Broncograveyard.com

Stainless steel front braided brake lines. D.O.T. approvedbr br Crown Performance has developed a complete stainless steel braided performance brake line set to match your Ford's specs. These brake lines are designed to meet the Department of Transportation Motor Vehicle Standard MVSS-106 (they...
shop.broncograveyard.com


It doesn't really matter. Just plug that extra hole and it'll still work.
Click to expand...
The second one is listed as for 1980 to 1989 Bronco.
Plus that fitting is slightly different from the other one (the one I got).

Here's the passenger side brake line with no side port:
1666157049698.jpeg
 
On the RABS trucks the brake line comes down from the master cylinder and goes thru a hole in the driver side coil bucket. The soft line is retained there. The passenger side brake hose connects to a hard line that runs across the engine xmember, and connects to that second port in the driver brake hose.
The Tee used to be on the driver frame rail but Ford made it integral to the driver hose to cut down on the number of connections in the system

The 4WABS trucks are plumbed differently because the individual brake hoses go directly to the ABS unit behind the driver headlight, which is why you could have used the older hose. Basically, Bronco Graveyard's item description isn't correct.
 
I got the Raybestos calipers today.
While hand tightening the JBG extended brake line to it, I noticed the hard line (coming from the brake line block that bolts to the caliper) SITS RIGHT UP AGAINST THE BLEEDER VALVE!
1666211841613.png

1666211887058.png


QUESTION:
Is it a foolish idea to use two washers on the lower banjo bolt/block in order to elevate it off the bleeder valve? 😬😬
 
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