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I didn't know the Amish were that bad. I thought there were us, just...hand powered and incest. :laughing:
 
Headed into our July 2-day Trials event I'm sitting with an OK lead in the class. Bikes prepped, bus will get loaded up tonight. Was ok until Sunday night, feeling a bit off. Woke up yesterday feeling like death. Head full of snot, coughing like crazy, sweats. Loaded up on the vitas and some OTC drugs. Feeling a little better today but back is jacked up from coughing all night. Antihistamines seem to be more effective than cold/flu so I'm thinking it's just some mega allergies with this rain we finally got.

I need to get over this shit fast this week so I can keep kicking Sam's ass this weekend.

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If I never opened up the master cylinder or slave cylinder when swapping a clutch disc is there any reason I'd need to bleed it other than failing components letting in air?

I did my Ranger without ever bleeding it. Swapped the friction disc in the Aerostar (same trans, same slave, etc) and clutch pedal is sitting at 1/5 height with minimal resistance before going to floor.
 
nope, should have been fine.
I've done clutch swaps without touching the clutch hydraulics in a bunch of stuff.

edit:
I do remember my dad having to fix the master cylinder mounting in the firewall of our aerostar when I was little.
maybe it's just broken.
 
Last edited:
rained last night.
flagship is submarine with screen door.

still haven't found where or how. raining right now. going to check it in a while. Shopvac'd out probably a half a gallon.
 

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arse_sidewards said:
If I never opened up the master cylinder or slave cylinder when swapping a clutch disc is there any reason I'd need to bleed it other than failing components letting in air?

I did my Ranger without ever bleeding it. Swapped the friction disc in the Aerostar (same trans, same slave, etc) and clutch pedal is sitting at 1/5 height with minimal resistance before going to floor.
Click to expand...

After spending hours trying to bleed an rbv clutch and failing I now just pump the pedal a thousand times with the bleeder closed, air goes up fluid goes down. :homer:
 
Thatg9659 said:
After spending hours trying to bleed an rbv clutch and failing I now just pump the pedal a thousand times with the bleeder closed, air goes up fluid goes down. :homer:
Click to expand...
pressure bleeder is now the only way I attempt clutches.
and brakes.
best thing ever.
 
Thatg9659 said:
Had to buy one of them for a Saab 9000 clutch. Big time easy button.
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I was unhappy that a new GM adapter cost me 2/3 the price of a whole new kit, but I bought it anyway because fuck bleeding brakes.

motive got me for all the money and I don't even care.
 
Went to another meskin restaurant today for lunch, awful.

White, commie, hipsters, with liberal arts degrees in Texas make better burritos than meskins in NY. All they know up here is seafood and how to fuck up cuts up meat for sandwiches.

Burritos is something you eat with your hands. If its covered in sauce and you use a fork, that's a very elaborate enchilada.
 
87manche said:
nope, should have been fine.
I've done clutch swaps without touching the clutch hydraulics in a bunch of stuff.

edit:
I do remember my dad having to fix the master cylinder mounting in the firewall of our aerostar when I was little.
maybe it's just broken.
Click to expand...
So then how could air have gotten in? No fluid was coming out of the bell so I doubt we fucked up a seal somehow by moving the input around as part of the process of getting everything to install. Master cylinder mount on the firewall is fine.

Is it worth rigging up some sort of ghetto contraption to pump fluid in via the bleeder?
 
arse_sidewards said:
So then how could air have gotten in? No fluid was coming out of the bell so I doubt we fucked up a seal somehow by moving the input around as part of the process of getting everything to install. Master cylinder mount on the firewall is fine.

Is it worth rigging up some sort of ghetto contraption to pump fluid in via the bleeder?
Click to expand...
yeah that would probably work.
concentric slave or external and a pivot with fork? I've gotten them not on the pivot before and caused issues. I'd check all that shit first.
the motive unit is basically a garden sprayer with a pressure gauge and an adapter to the master. I'm sure you could hackfab something up.
 
I buy just the motive caps, the rest is unnecessary if you have shop air and low pressure regulator.
 
87manche said:
yeah that would probably work.
concentric slave or external and a pivot with fork? I've gotten them not on the pivot before and caused issues. I'd check all that shit first.
the motive unit is basically a garden sprayer with a pressure gauge and an adapter to the master. I'm sure you could hackfab something up.
Click to expand...
It's an internal slave. Same old setup as every other M5OD Ford.

I'm not gonna have a chance to touch the van until Sunday but I'd like to drive it to work Monday. Would this have what I need to bleed it the easy way with minimal fucking around?

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Also this still doesn't explain how air got in there in the first place.
 
Ebs said:
I buy just the motive caps, the rest is unnecessary if you have shop air and low pressure regulator.
Click to expand...
Link to set?

The only standalone cap adapter sets I've seen have been an Aries kit and knockoffs thereof that cost more than the amazon bleeder set above.
 
aczlan said:
Leaky sunroof?

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
drains are clear. I poured a gallon of water through them the other day.
the sunroof drains pop right out the back into the hatch hinge line, no tubing or anything down the d pilar like a 5 series.
seems like tail light? but how the fuck? I found water splashed out of there and on adjacent shit, so it's got to be falling from a distance. Headliner is dry.

It's substantial because that was like a half a gallon of water and it didn't rain that much last night.
 
TRINDU said:
Went to another meskin restaurant today for lunch, awful.

White, commie, hipsters, with liberal arts degrees in Texas make better burritos than meskins in NY. All they know up here is seafood and how to fuck up cuts up meat for sandwiches.

Burritos is something you eat with your hands. If its covered in sauce and you use a fork, that's a very elaborate enchilada.
Click to expand...
Yeah, then theres the taco place in San Marcos that had gravy on the tacos. Fuck that TexMex shit.
 
87manche said:
drains are clear. I poured a gallon of water through them the other day.
the sunroof drains pop right out the back into the hatch hinge line, no tubing or anything down the d pilar like a 5 series.
seems like tail light? but how the fuck? I found water splashed out of there and on adjacent shit, so it's got to be falling from a distance. Headliner is dry.

It's substantial because that was like a half a gallon of water and it didn't rain that much last night.
Click to expand...
so, that escalated quickly.
one fucking leaf caused it all.
Now it drains gallons of water without any leaks.
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bdkw1 said:
Yeah, then theres the taco place in San Marcos that had gravy on the tacos. Fuck that TexMex shit.
Click to expand...

Carne guisada? Those are awesome.

TexMex > any Mexican sick on a plate. There's a reason we modified it.
 
you prolly fucked up the retarded quick disconnect in the hydraulic line
Tin Roof said:
They push some pretty deep wells with air.
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well yeah you're only limited on depth by how much pressure your comprssor will do
which really, 175 psi will do 404 ft of head pressure

I was more meaning on the power consumption side of things
it'd certainly be simpler
 
so I spent a good 30 bucks on a starter solenoid for my truck, bought the good napa echlin one thinking it'd be okay rather than the $7 chinese one
prolly 12 actuations of it, maybe 3 starts and the contacts are fucking welded together
fuck this fucking fuckpile of a fucking IDI
sadly I can't justify buying a 4bt at the current going rate of like $4k if you can even find one

I've got a DT360 in a bus with an AT545, would suck with the 30" tires and 4.10s never mind the extra 500lbs on the front axle that's already usually overweight
probably just gonna put the old solenoid back in and go back to having two separate wires to touch to the battery post under the hood, clunk the solenoid in with one hand, then mash on the wire that goes straight to the motor with the other hand

only did it that way for a couple years, just got excited about having something that would start from the key...
 
arse_sidewards said:
Link to set?

The only standalone cap adapter sets I've seen have been an Aries kit and knockoffs thereof that cost more than the amazon bleeder set above.
Click to expand...
I just buy the individual ones as needed. Top off reservoir and plug my reg right into the cap.
 
Out with the old, in with the new. Old Napoleon was bulletproof, but I think it was 25 ish years old. Replaced the burner once, now there's fuckall left of her.

New one is some $3000 weber that we got half price two years ago at Lowe's. Had to do some homeowner gas plumbing.

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