Unimog 404.111 build

[Austin]

Finally got the torque tubes hooked back up to the tcase last night. I didn’t expect that to be such a pain in the ass. Getting the driveshafts inside of them lined up and the flanges at the right angle for the bolts to line up took for ever. Anyway, the drivetrain is sitting where it should so now I am going to figure out how to cut the firewall so the new motor will fit.

As you can see, the mechanical fuel injection pump is sitting where the gas pedal used to be.

I’ve seen this motor swap done but I’ve never come across photos that show the firewall interference before any cutting has been done so here are a few of those.

Today’s goal is to figure out the easiest way to make the cab fit using my old cab.

 

[CDA 455 II]

When do you think you'll have a first fire-up of the motor?

 

[Austin]

When do you think you'll have a first fire-up of the motor?

Hopefully in a month or so. I really should have while it was on the engine stand with the clyweel and starter it came with. Got a few parts I’m waiting on now and a few things to figure out.

The stock 404 flywheel is at the machine shop to be neutrally balanced. Should be back in a week or so.

With the engine right between driver and passenger these cabs can get pretty warm, so I’m taking every effort to curb that. I have the exhaust manifold and turbo housing off ready to ship to be ceramic coated. They have to be there EOW and it’s a 3 week turnaround.

The stock fuel, oil filters and any brackets were on the drivers side of the block where there is no room. So I took them off and need to relocate them once I get the cab cut and sitting in place.

 

[RestoMog]

My whole drivers floor was rotten so i just cut that whole part out, as far as the firewall I think I cut up to the top of the pedal cutout, still figuring out how im gonna patch it back together.

 

[WaterH]

Is the plan to bend the pedals over to make room or do you have a more radical idea?

 

[Austin]

Is the plan to bend the pedals over to make room or do you have a more radical idea?

Wilwood had a tent at KoH and I was talking to them. Will likely go with one of their pedal setups once I figure out what kind of room I have left.


I did a lot of cutting / chopping / drinking beer and staring at the firewall yesterday. Got a pretty good plan in place for the good body. The horizontal ALDA Dieselmeken put on the pump still sticks about .75-1” through the firewall. I shoot them an email to see if I can easily convert it to their vertical set up, which will save that space and keep from any additional cutting/patching.

Don’t mind the screws and ugly cuts, just testing..

 

[Austin]

Little progress this weekend…..

Dieselmeken replied and said they can send me the parts to convert the ALDA but haven’t heard when. So pausing working on that side of the firewall till I get that and see what space I have.

I got the serpentine conversion kit from Joe at Doomsday Diesel. I started putting all the brackets on, waiting on the tensioner arm and stubby water pump to arrive. His kit puts the alternator up on that top plate next to the valve cover which is nice as it frees up the lower sides for other accessories. This kit saves about 3” in front of the engine which is nice. It also clears the original front engine mount without fucking with its placement.

Don’t mind my cardboard radiator, its …. Cool
I was playing around and mocking up the turbo location. The exhaust manifold is T25, the turbo is T3, with the thinest adapter I found it puts the turbo about 1/4” from the firewall at passengers foot. I got a 90* adapter, turned out to be a pos, but I like how it drops everything down into the open. Almost too far though, a few good bumps and it would be tap’n the frame. I’ve been trying to find a 45* or a tighter tighter bend to be in the middle but can’t find shit online. Ideas?

 

[M92PV4U]

I think that you're pushing the limits of those zipties.

I would modify that flange to the angle that you desire, unless you plan on returning it.

 

[Austin]

I think that you're pushing the limits of those zipties.

I would modify that flange to the angle that you desire, unless you plan on returning it.

You're right, I better double them up

Zip ties are on there because the holes came threaded cockeyed and when the studs are in they don't align with the turbo . It's a shitty part, I just need to find something else.

 

[M92PV4U]

You're right, I better double them up

Zip ties are on there because the holes came threaded cockeyed and when the studs are in they don't align with the turbo . It's a shitty part, I just need to find something else.

Well that throws the rest of my plan out of the window.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Hog the holes out and through bolt the bitch. Double nut it to make sure it’s extra secure

Or stop in your local machine shop and see what they’d want to make it not all fucked up and retarded. Either hog the holes out and thread it the next size up with fancy studs or weld them holes closed, re-drill and re-thread them

nOOB question:
Which general method for fastening is ideal?

 

[arse_sidewards]

nOOB question:
Which general method for fastening is ideal?

Depends on the application.

You'll almost never go wrong using flanged bolts and a flanged lock washer (nylock for normal stuff deformed thread for higher temp). If flanged isn't an option then stick washers under both heads.

 

[WaterH]

It sure doesn’t look hard to make that in to what you need. Is that stainless?

 

[Austin]

It is stainless, maybe I just need to order that new welder

 

[WaterH]

Studs are superior for anything of this nature. They hold their clamping load better through all the heat and vibrations. The theory, as I understand it, is you get the clamping force going two directions, from the nut and from the stud threaded into the flange, working to hold the flanges together.

That’s why you see so many high dollar engines using head studs, and why everyone bitched about ford using bolts on the 6.0.

I’m sorry, but I don’t buy that. At least not for those reasons. Clamping force is the same, but the possibility of a thread backing off is doubled. (2 sets of threads)

As far as high dollar engines, they usually start off as low dollar engines and builders replace the bolts with high quality studs. There are some benefits to studs like head alignment and easier disassembly. (Removing a froze nut vs froze bolt)

I could be wrong and I’m sure someone will tell me.

 

[IowaOffRoad]

I’m sorry, but I don’t buy that. At least not for those reasons. Clamping force is the same, but the possibility of a thread backing off is doubled. (2 sets of threads)

As far as high dollar engines, they usually start off as low dollar engines and builders replace the bolts with high quality studs. There are some benefits to studs like head alignment and easier disassembly. (Removing a froze nut vs froze bolt)

I could be wrong and I’m sure someone will tell me.

Studs are superior to bolts both as they can be torqued more consistently and accurately. The only reason everything isn’t studded is space constraints and/or expense.

 

[bdkw1]

Could you chop that one up so that it's not a full 90? Cutting down on the sweep would raise it up and pull it in closer.

Cut it, fit it, mark it and take it to someone with a tig.

 

[CDA 455 II]

Studs are superior to bolts both as they can be torqued more consistently and accurately. The only reason everything isn’t studded is space constraints and/or expense.

It's been years; but I remember reading/learning about that.

Thanks for posting the info. 👍🏽

 

[WaterH]

Studs are superior to bolts both as they can be torqued more consistently and accurately. The only reason everything isn’t studded is space constraints and/or expense.

Did some research and this is correct. The reason is a fully engaged nut has a specific thread friction. When you torque a bolt, you have verible thread engagement (and friction) because obviously the bolt goes further in as you tighten it. This makes sense. They are not stronger if they are the same material and they can’t clamp any better. There is some discussion that they are more likly to “relax” because of two sets of threads, but I would assume the correct torque should solve that.

 

[Austin]

This build thread is bouncing around a lot and will be a PIA to follow in the future but …. Got to work on things as they come in.

Got the flywheel back from the machine shop today. Very pleased with the work. M180 flywheels have bratwurst sized/shape (F'n Germans ) chunk out of one side to balance the crank. OM617s are neutrally balanced....and about 15lbs heavier. Most places I went to wanted to remove weight from the flywheel to balance it, this place was willing to add it. Ended up at 21lbs ... was hoping for more. He took a piece of .5" flat stock, made a crushed brat shape, drilled, tapped and locked in place. By lock I mean ... smash the edge of the bolt into the plate. Not sure what thats called but Mercedes does it quite a bit on these. After that he started balancing ….

Now that I got that back, this weekend I plan to pull the cab back off (waiting for parts anyway) and get all the new goodies in place

 

[arse_sidewards]

Not sure what thats called but Mercedes does it quite a bit on these.

Staked

Like staked u-joints.

 

[OX1]

Like the build Anyone still making upgraded parts for 404 axles these days, like the lower kingpin bolts with the large flat heads?

 

[Austin]

Like the build Anyone still making upgraded parts for 404 axles these days, like the lower kingpin bolts with the large flat heads?

Not a ton. 74Weld and Branik Motorsports are still making 404 portal box replacements. Most of the kingpins I’ve seen lately people have had machined for them. Need me 2 sets of those ….

 

[OX1]

Not a ton. 74Weld and Branik Motorsports are still making 404 portal box replacements. Most of the kingpins I’ve seen lately people have had machined for them. Need me 2 sets of those ….

You mean the upgraded bolts or the actual stock kingpin parts? I just grabbed another full set of stock kingpin stuff (and a second full CV), before you can't get them at all.

 

[Austin]

The upgraded ones. I know the guy that has the specs for that flathead, maybe I’ll go around all the forms and see if we want to put an order together.

 

[Bohalrantipol]

I would take 4

 

[Austin]

I would take 4

I’ll look into it

 

[Austin]

Had a little time to work on the Mog yesterday. Now that I have a welder I was able to build/modify a lot of the bracketry mods that’s been holding me up not to mention several nuts that had to be welded in place because they will not be accessible once the body is on.

• Got the rest of the alternator set up in place
• Made a new glow plug wiring harness
• Got the flywheel, clutch, etc set up
• Used my new Swagelok 1/2” bender to make a new dipstick tube that points forward and is accessible from the front of the block, the stock location is on the side and not accessible with the body on
• I played around with an oil pan from another OM617 version that I thought would be better to mount to the bell housing but decided against it.

 

[52 F-3]

Looks really nice, I like how you mounted the oil dipstick also. I might try to copy.

 

[bdkw1]

Get some stainless wire and booger that exhuast together!