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The Mountain Bike Thread

Honky Lips said:
were .00013 away from the wettest may on record. rain tomorrow and over the coming weekend. so I haven't got to ride too much which is pissing me off. first year I haven't had to work a ton of hours and I still cant fucking ride. so I bought a giant revolt gravel bike and clip less pedals/shoes. it'll be the taco ride and rainy day ride.

also got the boy a new trek marlin 6 yesterday. Treks are 25% off if you’re in the Nica league so can’t beat it. he's stoked for the nica race season to start now.

anyone recommend an external dropper for the trek?

Also. The one up rack is way bouncy for how much they cost. Hasn’t fallen apart yet though.
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those One-ups are so chinsy (sp?) for how much they cost. its like an erector set.

Use the internal routing on the drive-side of the downtube to route your dropper
 
midwestzj said:
those One-ups are so chinsy (sp?) for how much they cost. its like an erector set.

Use the internal routing on the drive-side of the downtube to route your dropper
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My machinist buddy told me drilling a couple holes on my frame would probably be ok, but I'd never be able to sell it....

He'd still need a hole in the seat tube :homer::flipoff2:
 
RusM said:
He'd still need a hole in the seat tube :homer::flipoff2:
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Why? Run it into the inlet on the downtime (I circled in my post above).....down to the BB, then up to the bottom of the dropper post (internally routed post will have the actuator on the bottom of the post, inside the seat tube).
 
RedX said:
Why? Run it into the inlet on the downtime (I circled in my post above).....down to the BB, then up to the bottom of the dropper post (internally routed post will have the actuator on the bottom of the post, inside the seat tube).
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depends on if there is a hole from the down tube to the seat tube. Some frames where consideration isn't given to dropper posts don't have holes there or there may not be enough room to fit around the bottom bracket.
 
Sandy Johnson said:
depends on if there is a hole from the down tube to the seat tube. Some frames where consideration isn't given to dropper posts don't have holes there or there may not be enough room to fit around the bottom bracket.
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Could be. But I am leaning (or at least would investigate it) towards that inlet being for a dropper cable allowance, or far less likely, front derailleur cable usage.
 
Screenshot_20240604_125153_Firefox.jpg
 
RedX said:
Why? Run it into the inlet on the downtime (I circled in my post above).....down to the BB, then up to the bottom of the dropper post (internally routed post will have the actuator on the bottom of the post, inside the seat tube).
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Sharper than 90* cable turn to get it above the BB into the bottom of the seatpost wouldn't work too great.

Edit: Fuckin trek thinking of putting in a dropper! :flipoff2:

The real mountain bike nerd option is to buy an AXS Reverb...:laughing:
 
I really like my 1up. No real problems with wobbling. Yes the bikes move a bit but never make contact. Way more stable than the Thule on the roof of my wife's car.

They also have awesome customer service, you can buy individual replacement parts if needed, and are made in the USA to boot.

Plus they even sold me a "custom" part that wasn't even on the website. (Wasn't really custom for me, but custom for somebody at the company once upon a time, but the sales guy remembered it when I was trying to explain what I was doing, so they made another one and sold it to me)

I am saving my pennies to buy a recon soon.
 
granitestatedestroyer said:
I really like my 1up. No real problems with wobbling. Yes the bikes move a bit but never make contact. Way more stable than the Thule on the roof of my wife's car.

They also have awesome customer service, you can buy individual replacement parts if needed, and are made in the USA to boot.

Plus they even sold me a "custom" part that wasn't even on the website.

I am saving my pennies to buy a recon soon.
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Yep....now that I've used the hitch stabilizer, my 1UP has been bombproof for years, with the heavy-assed e-bikes, the heavier DH bikes, combinations of those etc.

Now....I will concede, I did, perhaps take a RR crossing too fast one time before I had the stabilizer, and MAY have set the damned thing into bouncing, and MAY have, perhaps, put the e-bike handlebar through the rear window on the SUV. Maybe.

:homer:
 
RedX said:
Yep....now that I've used the hitch stabilizer, my 1UP has been bombproof for years, with the heavy-assed e-bikes, the heavier DH bikes, combinations of those etc.

Now....I will concede, I did, perhaps take a RR crossing too fast one time before I had the stabilizer, and MAY have set the damned thing into bouncing, and MAY have, perhaps, put the e-bike handlebar through the rear window on the SUV. Maybe.

:homer:
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:lmao:
 
RedX said:
Now....I will concede, I did, perhaps take a RR crossing too fast one time before I had the stabilizer, and MAY have set the damned thing into bouncing, and MAY have, perhaps, put the e-bike handlebar through the rear window on the SUV. Maybe.
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yuck. Maybe I've got unrealistic standards, but I wouldn't be a fan of a bike rack that deflects enough to slap my car with a handlebar, no matter how hard the whole thing is bouncing.

I think our next rack will be a velocirax 6 or 7 rack for our soccer mom mobile to try and compensate for the loss of our tundra tailgate.

1717533217601.png
 
Sandy Johnson said:
yuck. Maybe I've got unrealistic standards, but I wouldn't be a fan of a bike rack that deflects enough to slap my car with a handlebar, no matter how hard the whole thing is bouncing.

I think our next rack will be a velocirax 6 or 7 rack for our soccer mom mobile to try and compensate for the loss of our tundra tailgate.

1717533217601.png
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I will admit, if my incident did in fact happen, that it was 100% (maybe 1000%) user error. I hit that RR crossing like an extra from Dukes of Hazard (not entirely intentionally....it was way worse than it looked coming up to it).

And, I did have aluminum bar-end plugs (when I was running the Rev-Grips)....so that metal hit the rear window, instead of a rubber bar end (like the PNW grips I now use).

Bad combo all the way around. But lesson learned.

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Son did win a Fox tailgate pad at his last Enduro....so may need to look into a new truck to match it (or he may need to). :grinpimp:
 
I have a older North Shore 6 and have straight mobbed fire roads with 2 bikes on it. probably left the ground and blasting cross ruts. The thing barely moves once you get the hitch bolt tight. I have had the full 6 bikes on it a few times but just road travel but it was still solid back there and I wouldn't think about slowing for bumps or driveways just because it was there. And that is with the sloppy dodge 2" receiver. The only negitive on the North Shore rack is it is heavy (built well) and the crown mounting can be a pain in the ass at times. I had to make an adjustment for the Fox 38 on my Decoy.
 
Maybe it’s the 2” only HD or SD that I’ve have had forever, but definitely no complaints about movement with the 1up for me.
 
Yeah, I’ve already got the bolt plate that goes to tighten up where it goes into the receiver hitch. It’s the rack itself that has a little bit of wiggle to it. Probably go for a ride later and I’ll videotape it going down the interstate as far as the dropper post, you have to drill a hole in the down tube on these trek bikes, if you want internal, so my plan is to run it external on the down tube frame internally since they already have a hole for the bike models that are running a two by gear set
 
Random thought... is there video of anyone on a modern setup hitting the josh bender park city drop? Funny how huge that seemed back in the day
 
mobil1syn said:
i would be leery of mega hucking some homemade equipment but more power to him
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I don't' think he's making them in his garage or anything. Probably got a MFG in Taiwan cranking out frames with his specified geometry and suspension and putting his brand on it.

Ooor maybe he's got Neko making Cam specific bikes in the US with Cam specific branding?

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