The FSU trail buggy build

[Snowracer]

welded some link mounts up and cut links to length and tacked everything so could get the front diff under the buggy. gained 1.5 inches of extra uptravel once links where in place, new limiting factor is now the p/s pump and link clearance. im already sitting at a 12 inch belly height at full bump so not going to try and get any more uptravel as that should make my links flat at ride height with 6-7 inchs of uptravel

weld washers seem to make everything look better

pump is not fully mounted so will go up a little but still this is getting close at full bump

no issues on pass side

shop helper kept trying to be in all the pictures

liking the look of it so far with the 39s on it

 

[Snowracer]

got the rear diff stripped and truss welded up, will just tack it to the diff till i get pinion angle set ect next weekend

also scored a very well used bladder fuel cell, was just going to use my aluminium one but this will pass tech if i ever want to go race. will have to build a mount and fix the cell can up a bit but is a good start

 

[The Unknown]

Looks good and thanks for the updates, it is good motivation. I am in a similar place with my build.

Is that a small CV joint on the end of the steering ram? I haven't seen that before.

 

[aczlan]

Is that a small CV joint on the end of the steering ram? I haven't seen that before.

Looks like a standard inner tie rod end to me.

Aaron Z

 

[Toreadorranger]

Looks good and thanks for the updates, it is good motivation. I am in a similar place with my build.

Is that a small CV joint on the end of the steering ram? I haven't seen that before.

Its an EMF Ball Socket joint.

https://www.emfrodends.com/collections/emf-ball-sockets

 

[Wisconsinite]

Its an EMF Ball Socket joint.

https://www.emfrodends.com/collections/emf-ball-sockets

That is pretty badass.

 

[Snowracer]

Yep EMF ball sockets for inner steering joint, things are sexy and beefy. used to run 3/4 heim joints till i ripped one apart at Insanity Fab last year, took me out of the race real quick and also destroyed my axle shaft and inner C. after that i went way over kill with the ball sockets and 7/8 joints, so will probably destroy the ram or knuckle now :rolleyes:

 

[Sterlingfire]

Yep EMF ball sockets for inner steering joint, things are sexy and beefy. used to run 3/4 heim joints till i ripped one apart at Insanity Fab last year, took me out of the race real quick and also destroyed my axle shaft and inner C. after that i went way over kill with the ball sockets and 7/8 joints, so will probably destroy the ram or knuckle now :rolleyes:

Yup you'll likely rip the steering arm off the knuckle before breaking one of those ball sockets. They are bad ass.

The buggy is looking sick my snowy friend! You seem to be making pretty good progress
Here's to you being able to keep up the momentum

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes nice progress hurry up.
You can raise PS pump up easy enough with new bracket.

 

[Snowracer]

got the rear link mounts and links done this weekend so buggy has all 4 tires on it now, set the wheel base at 120 and 18" belly height for ride height.

have to shorten the upper links as pinion angle is out right now but thats an easy fix

i put the drivetrain in the chassis centered, the rear diff is not a center pinion as normally drive train is offset in the ford trucks. so drive shaft will not be straight in the buggy, no sure if i like this or should try and move the drivetrain over. looking at the room in the engine bay i can only move it over inch and half max so still might not line up with the pinion

lots of room with the 39s and chassis clearance, rolled the 44 up beside and little more of a tight fit so cant move diff foward anymore

then set it at ride height to get a real feel for the buggy, will be about a foot lower roof height then the truck was

 

[Provience]

looks good with tires on there

 

[Snowracer]

moved my frame side upper link mounts and reworked the links a bit, did the same on the front as well to help with pinon angle changes through the suspenion travel. got the front shock mounts built and tacked in place this weekend as well.

trying to fit the big 3" coil overs was a bit of a fight but with leaning them back a bit they dont stick up to high. also spent some time looking at bump stop locations and have a few ideas that i will work on next weekend

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Moving the drivetrain over will give you more driveshaft and pedal room. I'd definitely do it.

 

[Snowracer]

Moving the drivetrain over will give you more driveshaft and pedal room. I'd definitely do it.

i have already thought about it and i can only move the motor over 1 - 1.5 of an inch before it gets to close to the chassis with the big block. was able to sit in the chassis with my seat last night and foot room with the motor and trans right there will not be great but not that bad

 

[YotaAtieToo]

i have already thought about it and i can only move the motor over 1 - 1.5 of an inch before it gets to close to the chassis with the big block. was able to sit in the chassis with my seat last night and foot room with the motor and trans right there will not be great but not that bad

An inch can make all the difference ​​​​​​

Have you cycled the suspension with a front driveshaft?

 

[Snowracer]

An inch can make all the difference ​​​​​​

Have you cycled the suspension with a front driveshaft?

yes i had the old front shaft in last weekend checking things out. im actually able to fit a 1 piece shaft and clear the chassis but with would wind up with some drive line vibrations as yokes are not pointed in the right directions for that. have ordered the parts to do a 2 piece with a cv at the tcase. only real clearance issuse i can see is still the header but think i can make it work

 

[YotaAtieToo]

yes i had the old front shaft in last weekend checking things out. im actually able to fit a 1 piece shaft and clear the chassis but with would wind up with some drive line vibrations as yokes are not pointed in the right directions for that. have ordered the parts to do a 2 piece with a cv at the tcase. only real clearance issuse i can see is still the header but think i can make it work

Does the front output actually end up pointing up since the drivetrain is sloped back? My buddy is fighting with this in his truck, except he doesn't have near enough room for a 2 piece.

I'm usually in favor of single piece for simplicity, but having a longer smooth belly with the 2 piece is nice.

 

[ScottRS]

Looking pretty good. Nice job on getting the windshield bracing all the way through the dash bar and on down, that's a spot I fought and fought trying to make something happen on my last build and eventually just said f-it, it's pretty overbuilt and hopefully it won't be an issue. You don't need my hopefully there.
Probably nitpicky, but your lower shock mount bolts will probably bind on articulation if you leave them the direction they are.
Also, I'd twist it up and check front tire to shock clearance, the pics may be deceiving, but I think you're going to have an issue there. Hopefully I'm wrong and/or it's just a minor rub.
I'd also either be looking to add a bash tube around the upper shock cap to protect that reservoir hose attachment, or remaking the upper mounts to spin them 90 degrees and get the hoses coming out the back to better protect them.
Little early to worry about this, but I'd add a support tube from where the upper links attach in that mid-span, to somewhere else on the chassis to spread the load.

 

[Snowracer]

Does the front output actually end up pointing up since the drivetrain is sloped back? My buddy is fighting with this in his truck, except he doesn't have near enough room for a 2 piece.

I'm usually in favor of single piece for simplicity, but having a longer smooth belly with the 2 piece is nice.

i really wanted to run a 1 piece for simplicity and cost savings but like you said the drivetrain is angled so makes it hard to do. with the 2 piece and a cv at the tcase i can fix that, also with checking travel and the clearance on the front shaft i only need about 1/2 inch of slip with how everything is set up right now

 

[Snowracer]

Looking pretty good. Nice job on getting the windshield bracing all the way through the dash bar and on down, that's a spot I fought and fought trying to make something happen on my last build and eventually just said f-it, it's pretty overbuilt and hopefully it won't be an issue. You don't need my hopefully there.
Probably nitpicky, but your lower shock mount bolts will probably bind on articulation if you leave them the direction they are.
Also, I'd twist it up and check front tire to shock clearance, the pics may be deceiving, but I think you're going to have an issue there. Hopefully I'm wrong and/or it's just a minor rub.
I'd also either be looking to add a bash tube around the upper shock cap to protect that reservoir hose attachment, or remaking the upper mounts to spin them 90 degrees and get the hoses coming out the back to better protect them.
Little early to worry about this, but I'd add a support tube from where the upper links attach in that mid-span, to somewhere else on the chassis to spread the load.

yes i still need to do a flex test but looking at it right now i think ill be ok, but stuff is just tacked incase i have to move it. the upper mounts are a copy of the TMR mounts that are ment for this chassis and i have it set up the same way they have done all their buggys and many like them, but still have to flex check.

 

[Snowracer]

so turns out my front shock mounts dont work and the high steer arm hits the coil over at flex. tried a few different ideas and with no better luck so will have to go back to the drawing board. i gave up on suspension stuff for the weekend and worked on getting the rad mounted, fuel cell mounted and extended the back of the chassis for a rear winch and storage

added a tube and some feet for the lower rad tray to sit on

then uppper is some shock tabs and 1/2inch bolts so little over kill but nice and simple

and being a trail buggy i did not want the rad behind my head and blocking my vision when looking behind me, its just above the rear shoulder bar but can see over it no problem

fuel cell mount

the flat bar is for the sides of the cell to hold it in place

turns out oil jugs fit rather nice beside the cell, will have to figure out a way to hold them in

then added 8" to the bottom of the chassis and thats enough room for a winch, then 12" to the top. hoping to build some storage above the winch for tools gear ect

 

[YotaAtieToo]

You going to have a switch to reverse the fans for heat?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

On a more serious note, you might want to build a heat shield or something for the fuel tank. I remember reading about a guy having issues with his rad blowing on his fuel cell like that and heating the fuel up. Probably not an issue in canukistan 99% of the time, but would suck to find out the hard way.

 

[Snowracer]

On a more serious note, you might want to build a heat shield or something for the fuel tank. I remember reading about a guy having issues with his rad blowing on his fuel cell like that and heating the fuel up. Probably not an issue in canukistan 99% of the time, but would suck to find out the hard way.

have had a few people bring up the heat issue on the cell, will probably just put a layer of DEI heat shield on the cell and that should do it. they even show it on the inside of a fuel cell on their web site

https://www.designengineering.com/reflect-a-cool-24-x-24/

 

[YotaAtieToo]

have had a few people bring up the heat issue on the cell, will probably just put a layer of DEI heat shield on the cell and that should do it. they even show it on the inside of a fuel cell on their web site

https://www.designengineering.com/reflect-a-cool-24-x-24/

Like I said, I'd imagine it would be more of an issue it hotter areas. Say it's 90*+ and you're doing a slow rock trail with no air flow.

 

[Snowracer]

Like I said, I'd imagine it would be more of an issue it hotter areas. Say it's 90*+ and you're doing a slow rock trail with no air flow.

just had to do the math on that thats a hot day for around here

will probably just do the heat barrier stuff and see how it does.

 

[Snowracer]

finished up the rear tube work, winch mount and added recovery points this weekend

added the tubes at the back so now it matches all the way through the chassis

gussets, recovery points and fairlead mount

trans cooler mounted but not lovinig it so might see if i can find some where else to fit it

 

[Tjjared]

i think the trans cooler looks great there!

 

[Mr Stubs]

Are you going to flex your rear tire into that pokey thing?

 

[rattle_snake]

Well you are far enough along to sit in it with a beer(s) and make motor noises. Looking good!