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The FSU trail buggy build

Well you are far enough along to sit in it with a beer(s) and make motor noises. Looking good!

there have been some vroom vroom noises made while sitting in it lately instead of working on it :laughing:

YotaAitieToo was worried about foot room but after sitting in it think ill have lots of room as even being 6,1 my leg has to be straight to touch the firewall area

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have also picked up a 1410 CV Dodge drive shaft after reading HYDRODYNAMIC's build to build my front 2 piece drive shaft. have also got the same mid shaft parts that Busted Knuckle use for their carrier bearing set up. really leaning towards using the spicer rubber carrier bearing thats meant for the stubb, its far more beefy looking then most automotive ones ive seen. seem to be a lots of random information about using a stock steading bearing in a front shaft but might try it as the spicer bearing is dirt cheap
 
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This stage usually last between 8 and 80 months :flipoff2:

haha, but as long as you have the battery and stereo hooked up, It's OK to pass out in the seat, perhaps with dog sleeping in the other.

How long does the front stub and rest of shaft need to be? It would seem that with short lengths the rubber carrier would be fine.
 
Are you going to flex your rear tire into that pokey thing?

did a mock up flex test with coil overs and bypasses and tire clears the pokey thing with lots of room to spare. however the tire wants to hit the coil over and i cant move the coil over in anymore or it will hit the chassis brace bar. so option was modify the chassis for the clearance i need or go to trailing arms, so parts for trailing arms are on order now :rolleyes:

so while waiting on trailing arm parts to show up i took another shot at the front, got another set of lower mounts cut same as what was on the truck. i know they clear the tire and high steer arm so have to build uppers to work. probably getting a little carried away with my uppers but will look good and be strong when i get the plates cut from a friend

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while im waiting of the shock mount plates and trailing arm parts ive been working on other stuff as i can. got the seat mounts done, seats are on some angle iron notched for the tube and the legs off the seat bar will match up with the front floor tubes

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picked up a new winch for the front and started on a mount for it and front bumper, still have more tube to add. with rear rad i have room for the winch inside the chassis behind the grille

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trying to keep it low profile

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got the trailing arms built, still need to build the upper mounts

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parts for the front drive shaft showed up, will be 1410 cv shaft to 1410 joint at the steading bearing.

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rear bump stop mounts, have 1/2 inch of clearance between links and bottom of fuel cell

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put my efi back on the motor to see how my intake was going to fit. will be able to run it right back into the dash area but will need a small cowl on the hood to cover it

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welded all my links and link brackets up and was able to take the buggy off jack stands and roll it around at full bump

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Use a diff cover for the cowl hood....like Mitsubishi Eclipse hood bump
 
steady bearing mount

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front shaft is all 1410 joints

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can now really see how much of a clearance issue i have with the header, still think i can cut the header back and make it work

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rear shaft is all girth no length as its 1480 joints and 3.5 tubing but like 2 feet long

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Speed holes on something that small wouldn't be worth the wear on my tooling :lmao:
 
that bump mount needs more support. it will twist the tube at the very least, more than likely rip it out off.
 
Speed holes on something that small wouldn't be worth the wear on my tooling :lmao:

ya the hole saws where not happy doing the 1/2" i made the mount out of but oh well

that bump mount needs more support. it will twist the tube at the very least, more than likely rip it out off.

the bump mounts are boxed and will be welded on all 4 sides of the can and the chassis tube.
 
ya the hole saws where not happy doing the 1/2" i made the mount out of but oh well



the bump mounts are boxed and will be welded on all 4 sides of the can and the chassis tube.
Right, but it's still only mounted to one tube. Probably 1 3/4x120?

It will twist the tube, and or crack eventually. Can you run a vertical tube on the top of the box, as close to the can as possible, up to the tubes above?
 
It's 2x.120 dom but I get what you are saying and will have to take a look at it. I haven't fully welded them so could add to it still.

Pretty sure the boarders are still closed so won't be making it. Was hopping to come down for the spring nimac rock race but that probably won't happen as well.
 
It's 2x.120 dom but I get what you are saying and will have to take a look at it. I haven't fully welded them so could add to it still.

Pretty sure the boarders are still closed so won't be making it. Was hopping to come down for the spring nimac rock race but that probably won't happen as well.
There's got to be a back road somewhere up there.

What's the Canadian version of a coyote? :laughing:
 
It's 2x.120 dom but I get what you are saying and will have to take a look at it. I haven't fully welded them so could add to it still.

Pretty sure the boarders are still closed so won't be making it. Was hopping to come down for the spring nimac rock race but that probably won't happen as well.

One piece of 1/8 wall material cannot handle repeatedly having a vehicle dropped on it.
 
Can you run a vertical tube on the top of the box, as close to the can as possible, up to the tubes above?

looks like i can fit a tube from the bump can mount to the front chassis brace tube

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so this is something im not proud of and wasnt going to share here but its part of this build so i will. when welding the chassis up i messed up and either it moved a lot or i didnt double and triple check my measuments. the front top half of the chassis wound up off center. one of the vertical front tubes was not straight as well and that one is very much on me being in a rush. i never noticed it till i started to build the front bumper and then right away could see that it was not straight and chassis was not centered. been putting off fixing it as knew it was going to be a shit job to do. was able to cut the front tubes out and reuse them and relief cut some other welds and pull the top over to line up.

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not perfect but 100 times better then it was and i couldnt get it to go any more

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and with it all welded back up in place i could finish up the bumper and grill and this time everything lined up

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buddy got my shock mounts cut out for me this weekend as well, think they will be pretty sweet when welded up

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Been there, shit moves a ton welding I have learned. Looking good.
 
havent touched this in a few weeks as been busy with other stuff

helping the GF out with her bobber project
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been out camping
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watched some racing
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but did add some more chassis braces, vertical tube where the chassis has the miter joint
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cross brace between the shocks
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Any chance we can get pics of GF’s boober project???:flipoff2:
The rest looks great!
 
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