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The 4xFordYota Franken-Fine Axles!

You're on crack if you think starting with a stock 9" is anything but a waste of time and money for a 500hp rig. A stock 3rd and housing is shit.

You also probably don't need to go all fany with 40 spline on the 14b. A spool, gears, and some good chromos, maybe a truss and you can rock out.
I would never build a stock housing. But I'll build a stock case if i needed to keep cost down. Out here I find strange cases with spools and blown up gear sets for $300-$400 from the drag guys and sprint car guys. But we were just looking at stock to stock for a $3k ish build and I feel its comparable with the wheeling we do.

Best bang for your buck. For sure build a 14B with 35sp chromos and a spool. I was just trying to make the strongest 9in I could for his budget he threw out hahaha.
 
Here is a fabricated housing 9in


Parts List :

Ruffstuff 9in Housing ; R1668 / $1140

5.13 Gears ( G2 Axle & Gear ) ; 2-2011-513 / $239.99

G2 Gear Install Kit ; 35-2011C / $143.99

QuickTime Performance 40spline Spool ; F9DS40 / $119.99

Crane Axle 05+ Unit Bearing Cups ; NO P# / $599.99

SuperDuty 40 Spline Drive Flange's ; DFK-D60SD-40E / $250.00

Pilot Automotive Unit Bearings ; HB515081 / $90.79each $181.58

Raybestos Rline Pad & Rotor Kit ; 1068MH680394R / $122.79

Cardone RL Caliper ; 184921 / $42.79

Cardone RR Caliper ; 184920 / $42.79

Currie 40-Spline Chromoly Axle Shaft ; CE-1015FU / $310each $620



Total out too $3,503.91 without a truss or core 3rd member. If you scavenged around you can find a stock 3rd for 100 ish bucks or a strange case for 265.


The statement was that you couldn't build a 9in anywhere near the $3k cost of a 14B build that would hold 500hp. I think you can get close enough to justify wanting the 9in build.

I have a complete set of 05+ superduty axles that I'm gonna cut the c's off of and build a factory width superduty with a 9in Housing. I think it'll be a fun build.
 
You forgot drive slugs:flipoff2:

You're still comparing apples to oranges. He's talking a 14b that will hold up to a 500hp buggy on 43 stickies, and youre talking a 9" that will be a great axle for an average trail rig, with axle shafts that are way to be for its r&p strength. To actually compare, strength wise, you need a $4k Gear works 10" 3rd.

Speaking of gear works,

3.250" Iron Load Bolt Case - Gearworks Inc.

I wouldn't waste money on any other 3rd when theirs is $450 with load bolts.
 
Here is a fabricated housing 9in


Parts List :

Ruffstuff 9in Housing ; R1668 / $1140

5.13 Gears ( G2 Axle & Gear ) ; 2-2011-513 / $239.99

G2 Gear Install Kit ; 35-2011C / $143.99

QuickTime Performance 40spline Spool ; F9DS40 / $119.99

Crane Axle 05+ Unit Bearing Cups ; NO P# / $599.99

SuperDuty 40 Spline Drive Flange's ; DFK-D60SD-40E / $250.00

Pilot Automotive Unit Bearings ; HB515081 / $90.79each $181.58

Raybestos Rline Pad & Rotor Kit ; 1068MH680394R / $122.79

Cardone RL Caliper ; 184921 / $42.79

Cardone RR Caliper ; 184920 / $42.79

Currie 40-Spline Chromoly Axle Shaft ; CE-1015FU / $310each $620



Total out too $3,503.91 without a truss or core 3rd member. If you scavenged around you can find a stock 3rd for 100 ish bucks or a strange case for 265.


The statement was that you couldn't build a 9in anywhere near the $3k cost of a 14B build that would hold 500hp. I think you can get close enough to justify wanting the 9in build.

I have a complete set of 05+ superduty axles that I'm gonna cut the c's off of and build a factory width superduty with a 9in Housing. I think it'll be a fun build.
You can’t fit 40sp in a stock third member bearings are too small. You’ll need an upgraded case anyway.

You also forgot the weak as shit 28sp 9" pinion. You’ll need a big bearing pinion support to put the 35sp pinion in a case.

And a trussed stock 9" housing is still weaker than a trussed stock 14Bolt housing.
 
edited the first 2 posts

Gonna order up the parking brake, extra brake pads this week. Got in 2 of the wilwood calipers from BKOR, so the rest of the stuff shouldnt be too far behind. Gonna start on the rear axle this weekend. Lemme know if anyone sees something missing. I think its all listed there though. After the BKOR stuff gets here this week, I should be able to throw together the rear axle.
 
edited the first 2 posts

Gonna order up the parking brake, extra brake pads this week. Got in 2 of the wilwood calipers from BKOR, so the rest of the stuff shouldnt be too far behind. Gonna start on the rear axle this weekend. Lemme know if anyone sees something missing. I think its all listed there though. After the BKOR stuff gets here this week, I should be able to throw together the rear axle.

So I'll give in on one of my argument points here. :flipoff2:

I was pushing for stock brakes for ease of parts replacement out on the road if something goes wrong. But if the wildwoods bolt onto stock brackets, there is nothing saying you can't just put a stock rotor and caliper on that corner to get home.

Also, I remember guys just drilling out the 8x170 holes to ~3/4" so they could slide over 8x6.5, which is easy enough to do with common trail tools. You're still going to have a difficult time if you loose a wheel bearing, but that seems uncommon and if you have them on all 4 corners, carrying 1 spare may not be a bad idea.

You could even do the old trick where they use it as a spare tire mount :flipoff2:
 
So I'll give in on one of my argument points here. :flipoff2:

I was pushing for stock brakes for ease of parts replacement out on the road if something goes wrong. But if the wildwoods bolt onto stock brackets, there is nothing saying you can't just put a stock rotor and caliper on that corner to get home.

Also, I remember guys just drilling out the 8x170 holes to ~3/4" so they could slide over 8x6.5, which is easy enough to do with common trail tools. You're still going to have a difficult time if you loose a wheel bearing, but that seems uncommon and if you have them on all 4 corners, carrying 1 spare may not be a bad idea.

You could even do the old trick where they use it as a spare tire mount :flipoff2:
Hey you're finally starting to understand the concept of carrying spares! Congratulations! You've earned the gold star for today!

Spare tires are for people who love wasting space and weight though lolol

(Just figured I could continue with the contradiction theme for you big boy)
 
Hey you're finally starting to understand the concept of carrying spares! Congratulations! You've earned the gold star for today!

Spare tires are for people who love wasting space and weight though lolol

(Just figured I could continue with the contradiction theme for you big boy)

Now I don't even know what posts of yours are serious or not because they're all retarded :flipoff2:

It's really easy to get carried away with spare parts, possibly causing breakage from being heavy.

Personally, I wouldn't carry a spare UB, I'd rather run one I could get off the shelf, or at least be prepared to redrill one. I typically go pretty light on spare parts and stick to the essentials. A spare U joint, tre, hoses, belts ect.

I figured you'd be the guy with a 42" spare on a rear swing out wondering why you're popping wheelies on mild climbs :flipoff2:
 
Now I don't even know what posts of yours are serious or not because they're all retarded :flipoff2:

It's really easy to get carried away with spare parts, possibly causing breakage from being heavy.

Personally, I wouldn't carry a spare UB, I'd rather run one I could get off the shelf, or at least be prepared to redrill one. I typically go pretty light on spare parts and stick to the essentials. A spare U joint, tre, hoses, belts ect.

I figured you'd be the guy with a 42" spare on a rear swing out wondering why you're popping wheelies on mild climbs :flipoff2:
What did you do if you broke in the middle of Fordyce? Grab a friend and drive out to truckee napa and come back in 8-10 hours? Seems like you're now fucking everyone else's trip 🙄

I already do hill wheelies... 4runners got big booties bro.
 
Now I don't even know what posts of yours are serious or not because they're all retarded :flipoff2:

It's really easy to get carried away with spare parts, possibly causing breakage from being heavy.

Personally, I wouldn't carry a spare UB, I'd rather run one I could get off the shelf, or at least be prepared to redrill one. I typically go pretty light on spare parts and stick to the essentials. A spare U joint, tre, hoses, belts ect.

I figured you'd be the guy with a 42" spare on a rear swing out wondering why you're popping wheelies on mild climbs :flipoff2:

I think a lot of people over spare part themselves to death and end up with fat pigs that break more often than if they just pared down and got lighter. Not sure many guys are outright breaking unit bearings either to your point. My first gen Tacoma is 4500 loaded and ready to wheel without me in it and I feel like it's a fat bitch.

Spare steering ends, birf, inner axles, drive flange, a u-joint, plus some hydro line/fittings is about all I carry. If it's a bigger break than that, I'm going back to camp and the trailer to fix it where I keep a spare 3rd, etc. Some guys I know will damn near carry an entire driveline in spares including a transfer case in the wheeler!
 
Or, you build your shit right and don't bring spares.

40sp 300M shafts, big joints, direct drive and you're set.
 
I think a lot of people over spare part themselves to death and end up with fat pigs that break more often than if they just pared down and got lighter. Not sure many guys are outright breaking unit bearings either to your point. My first gen Tacoma is 4500 loaded and ready to wheel without me in it and I feel like it's a fat bitch.

Spare steering ends, birf, inner axles, drive flange, a u-joint, plus some hydro line/fittings is about all I carry. If it's a bigger break than that, I'm going back to camp and the trailer to fix it where I keep a spare 3rd, etc. Some guys I know will damn near carry an entire driveline in spares including a transfer case in the wheeler!
Build it light and wind it tight! - said some dirt track racer from the south years ago, probably.

I've got a 2nd gen 4runner I'm wanting to build over the winter. I'm used to my current trail rig (first gen truck) weighing about 3500# without me and not breaking much in spite of the way I wheel it (I likes to feed the squirrels under the hood meth:dustin:). I'm concerned with weight compared to my current one, I like not carrying shit with me.
 
Build it light and wind it tight! - said some dirt track racer from the south years ago, probably.

I've got a 2nd gen 4runner I'm wanting to build over the winter. I'm used to my current trail rig (first gen truck) weighing about 3500# without me and not breaking much in spite of the way I wheel it (I likes to feed the squirrels under the hood meth:dustin:). I'm concerned with weight compared to my current one, I like not carrying shit with me.

That's a valid concern!

I think the stuff Brennan Metcalf is doing is super cool right now with flatties on D44's and 35's that are super lightweight, low and capable. I also realize that I'm in the minority being happy on 37's on Toyota axles and a 3RZ when the world says that LS, tons, and 40+ is the answer to all wheeling questions.
 
What did you do if you broke in the middle of Fordyce? Grab a friend and drive out to truckee napa and come back in 8-10 hours? Seems like you're now fucking everyone else's trip 🙄

I already do hill wheelies... 4runners got big booties bro.

Like I said, I bring essentials. Little things that will immobilize your rig. Belts, rad hoses, tie rod ends, a spare Toyota drive shaft slip, ect. Been wheelin for near 20 years now and have never had a major problem at least getting off the trail.

I don't pack spare axles for all corners, spare knuckles, and tcases like some Toyota guys :laughing: I do bring some bigger ticket things like that and leave them at the tow rig.

You can never prepare for everything anyway. One of the last Fordyce trips I was on, my buddy blew his 4.0 jeep at committee. What do you do but drag him out.

I don't see a UB going out on the trail anyway, that would be more a middle of Nevada type part failure.

I think a lot of people over spare part themselves to death and end up with fat pigs that break more often than if they just pared down and got lighter. Not sure many guys are outright breaking unit bearings either to your point. My first gen Tacoma is 4500 loaded and ready to wheel without me in it and I feel like it's a fat bitch.

Spare steering ends, birf, inner axles, drive flange, a u-joint, plus some hydro line/fittings is about all I carry. If it's a bigger break than that, I'm going back to camp and the trailer to fix it where I keep a spare 3rd, etc. Some guys I know will damn near carry an entire driveline in spares including a transfer case in the wheeler!

Like I said UB failure would be more of a highway deal, and even then is unlikely.

Even your parts list is too heavy for me :flipoff2: how often do you break 30 spline birfs?

Or, you build your shit right and don't bring spares.

40sp 300M shafts, big joints, direct drive and you're set.

Your East coast wheelin is so different, it's all about nailing hard obsticales and getting back to a trailer near by. These Fordyce or Rubicon trails can be 10 miles deep down a rocky trail and maybe not near as difficult, but more of an endurance. Loose bolts, broken shock mounts, stupid little shit is really what fucks you over.

Either way, your point of building a solid rig applies, not just buying the good parts, but going over the rig, checking bolts, hose routing, ect.
 
Your East coast wheelin is so different, it's all about nailing hard obsticales and getting back to a trailer near by. These Fordyce or Rubicon trails can be 10 miles deep down a rocky trail and maybe not near as difficult, but more of an endurance. Loose bolts, broken shock mounts, stupid little shit is really what fucks you over.

Either way, your point of building a solid rig applies, not just buying the good parts, but going over the rig, checking bolts, hose routing, ect.
Oh I absolutely agree.

I'm just saying that if you have the right parts from the get go there is no need to bring spares.

Maintenance still needs to be done no matter what.
 
Oh I absolutely agree.

I'm just saying that if you have the right parts from the get go there is no need to bring spares.

Maintenance still needs to be done no matter what.

Ya, that's the thing people miss. They think "I spent the money on rvc's and an atlas, it should be bulletproof" but if you don't check the oil, or grease the rcv's, they'll eventually fail like anything else.
 
Build it light and wind it tight! - said some dirt track racer from the south years ago, probably.

I've got a 2nd gen 4runner I'm wanting to build over the winter. I'm used to my current trail rig (first gen truck) weighing about 3500# without me and not breaking much in spite of the way I wheel it (I likes to feed the squirrels under the hood meth:dustin:). I'm concerned with weight compared to my current one, I like not carrying shit with me.

They aren't as heavy as everyone thinks.

My 90 was 22re/5spd. Power windows and cruise. 3750 stock, my 96 is a limited 3.4, auto, elocker, power everything, sun roof, ect. And it was like 3850 stock. It now rides around 5k lbs with a day trip type load. 6k lbs with 5 of us and loaded for camping. Has a winch, bumper, skid plate, 35s, arb front, ect. If I stripped it all out, I bet it's around 4500 with no people.

A lot of wieght is in the glass and doors. I made some Skelton doors for my 2nd gen that stripped a ton of wieght. Even the manual window doors I had were much lighter. I also wanted to do lexan back windows, but ended up just chopping it into a pickup.
 
Oh I absolutely agree.

I'm just saying that if you have the right parts from the get go there is no need to bring spares.

Maintenance still needs to be done no matter what.

Ya, that's the thing people miss. They think "I spent the money on rvc's and an atlas, it should be bulletproof" but if you don't check the oil, or grease the rcv's, they'll eventually fail like anything else.
Agree maintenance is key!! Most of my reliability issues I have had wheeling were traced back to maintenance related issues and stuff I should have caught during those routines. I carry a decent ammount of spares, but I also don't have a trailer it's shit that if it breaks I can't get home or would be very hard to find at a local parts store. I cannot stand wrenching on my rig, and I really don't like trail wrenching, so time spent in the garage doing PMs is so valuable. I was checking wheel bearings and greasing RCVs and found a damn frame crack last time I was under the truck, that would have sucked to find in the woods the hardway!
 
Like I said, I bring essentials. Little things that will immobilize your rig. Belts, rad hoses, tie rod ends, a spare Toyota drive shaft slip, ect. Been wheelin for near 20 years now and have never had a major problem at least getting off the trail.

I don't pack spare axles for all corners, spare knuckles, and tcases like some Toyota guys :laughing: I do bring some bigger ticket things like that and leave them at the tow rig.

You can never prepare for everything anyway. One of the last Fordyce trips I was on, my buddy blew his 4.0 jeep at committee. What do you do but drag him out.

I don't see a UB going out on the trail anyway, that would be more a middle of Nevada type part failure.



Like I said UB failure would be more of a highway deal, and even then is unlikely.

Even your parts list is too heavy for me :flipoff2: how often do you break 30 spline birfs?



Your East coast wheelin is so different, it's all about nailing hard obsticales and getting back to a trailer near by. These Fordyce or Rubicon trails can be 10 miles deep down a rocky trail and maybe not near as difficult, but more of an endurance. Loose bolts, broken shock mounts, stupid little shit is really what fucks you over.

Either way, your point of building a solid rig applies, not just buying the good parts, but going over the rig, checking bolts, hose routing, ect.

One, hence the singular spare :flipoff2:

I actually meant to take them out of the Tacoma and put them in the trailer this spring but I forgot more than anything. It's not like it's ever very far to the trailer when you're east coast wheeling.

I do carry a spare tire and wheel with me though. I loathe the idea of trying to patch or dismount/mount a tire in the SE mud...because you know the only time you'll ever need it is calf deep in some shitty clay.
 
Not carrying a spare on a trail rig is dumb IMO. I have had people make the case that it weighs too much while popping open drinks that they have in an ARB fridge that's sitting above thier sub box and they have all kinds of shit piled on a roof rack.:homer:

I mean if you are crawling shit that you need to be at the absolute peak of performance or trail breaking in AZ or sand hollow or something I get it, but on a trail rig, dumb.
 
Not carrying a spare on a trail rig is dumb IMO. I have had people make the case that it weighs too much while popping open drinks that they have in an ARB fridge that's sitting above thier sub box and they have all kinds of shit piled on a roof rack.:homer:

I mean if you are crawling shit that you need to be at the absolute peak of performance or trail breaking in AZ or sand hollow or something I get it, but on a trail rig, dumb.

I'm not carrying a 150 lbs 43" tire just for fun, knowing that neither I nor anyone I ride with blew a tire in 3 years.
 
i completely agree on spares, you need some. i have been told i carry too much, but more of my stuff is tools i think. but some simple stuff i carry are ujoints, heim joints, tire plugs and a MacGyver box of all kinds of random tid bits. who would have thought i could break a 1410 ujoint with a 4 cyl, but it happened, a rock managed to remove one snap ring and then that cap came off, i caught before it failed and had a spare with me so it was no big deal, how ever not having said spare is a waste of time that does not need to be wasted. but yes you need something.
 
They aren't as heavy as everyone thinks.

My 90 was 22re/5spd. Power windows and cruise. 3750 stock, my 96 is a limited 3.4, auto, elocker, power everything, sun roof, ect. And it was like 3850 stock. It now rides around 5k lbs with a day trip type load. 6k lbs with 5 of us and loaded for camping. Has a winch, bumper, skid plate, 35s, arb front, ect. If I stripped it all out, I bet it's around 4500 with no people.

A lot of wieght is in the glass and doors. I made some Skelton doors for my 2nd gen that stripped a ton of wieght. Even the manual window doors I had were much lighter. I also wanted to do lexan back windows, but ended up just chopping it into a pickup.
I call BS on some of these truck weights people throw out, myself included until recently. I have a fairly simple ext cab Tacoma on 37s, with a full bed, no cage and simple tube bumpers and I figured it was pretty light, but with a 1/4 tank of gas, no tools, no spare and just me in it the truck weighs 4740 as of yesterday at the dump.

I think some people just pull truck weights out of their ass.
 
I'll take that as a compliment :laughing::flipoff2:
Lol!! Definately, the guy with the unpainted buggy running swampers with an on off switch throttle foot, would be the same guy bombing down access roads back to the trailer with a shredded swamper if you ever did flatten one LOL!!
 
Lol!! Definately, the guy with the unpainted buggy running swampers with an on off switch throttle foot, would be the same guy bombing down access roads back to the trailer with a shredded swamper if you ever did flatten one LOL!!

Like that ? :grinpimp:

1663093107728.png


1663093195926.png
 
I call BS on some of these truck weights people throw out, myself included until recently. I have a fairly simple ext cab Tacoma on 37s, with a full bed, no cage and simple tube bumpers and I figured it was pretty light, but with a 1/4 tank of gas, no tools, no spare and just me in it the truck weighs 4740 as of yesterday at the dump.

I think some people just pull truck weights out of their ass.
Buddy of mine with a TJ was always claiming his jeep weight was about with my Toyota weighs (I’ve had my Toyota on the local grain elevator scales multiple times) Even though he refused to weigh it. He always took what the Internet said a base model TJ weighs and added 300#. He was shocked (Edit: after I finally convinced him to weigh it one day) to find out it weighs almost 1000 pounds more than my Toyota when my Toyota is ready for the trail.:laughing:He was shocked to find out it weighs almost 1000 pounds more than my Toyota when my Toyota is ready for the trail. Between rock rails, heavier springs, heavier shocks, much heavier wheel/tire combo, all that weight adds up. I find that many people don’t realize just how much straw they’re throwing on the camels back.
 
My buggy weights 4450lbs.

Me thinks some of y'all are filling your cages with helium or something :flipoff2:
 
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