Bebop
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 26, 2020
- Member Number
- 1458
- Messages
- 4,850
i think thats it......
See, what happened was, I listened to the internet and I aired down...
i think thats it......
i remember this story..... but the knuckle held....See, what happened was, I listened to the internet and I aired down...
This time it did !i remember this story..... but the knuckle held....
that is a pretty cool device you got there.
Not carrying a spare on a trail rig is dumb IMO. I have had people make the case that it weighs too much while popping open drinks that they have in an ARB fridge that's sitting above thier sub box and they have all kinds of shit piled on a roof rack.
I mean if you are crawling shit that you need to be at the absolute peak of performance or trail breaking in AZ or sand hollow or something I get it, but on a trail rig, dumb.
I call BS on some of these truck weights people throw out, myself included until recently. I have a fairly simple ext cab Tacoma on 37s, with a full bed, no cage and simple tube bumpers and I figured it was pretty light, but with a 1/4 tank of gas, no tools, no spare and just me in it the truck weighs 4740 as of yesterday at the dump.
I think some people just pull truck weights out of their ass.
My buggy weights 4450lbs.
Me thinks some of y'all are filling your cages with helium or something
It's those god damned 14 bolts under your rig, you should look into 9" centers
It's those god damned 14 bolts under your rig, you should look into 9" centers
/https://data.irate4x4.com/assets/smilies/laughing.gif
I actually would like to see a comparable 9" vs a comparable 60 wieght. Same tubes, outters, shafts ect. I don't think there is as much difference there as people think. I believe the "omg so light" came from the stock 9" housings.
Give me the money and I'll swap in a heart beat.
150lbs difference per axle vs a big tubes 14 bolt.
With the same size tube on the 9"?
I can see the 14b being quite a bit more than a 9", but I don't think a comparable 60 would be.
Do the high dollar 10" 3rds hold up to rock bouncing type shit?
The whole point of going with fabricated axles is so that you can put some lighter shit. If I were to do it I'd go Spidertrax 4" chromo HT housings to save weight.
Maybe ? I don't know / care much about 60s. Except their outers of course.
Yep. GW and TubeWorx both have options that will hold. Big $ though.
That's speculation and completely wrong.
Tim Cameron has been using GW third members for the past 2 cars (3 years) without any issues. And you'd be hard pressed to find a better test bed than this guy.
A full KOH is probably more driving time than any of the East Coast buggies will see in a lifetime. You have to make sure not to compare apple to oranges. And I will add that a lot of the top teams are stlll not changing gears as often as you'd think. Regular maintenance / fluxing them absolutely. But they would be dumb not to.
ECGS doesn't make money on 10" stuff which is why they aren't pushing it.
I thought TC had only done 1 10" rig and went back to D80s?
Agreed.High speed through the desert can actually be very abusive on parts. I remember talking to Shrrererer soon after he won for the first time and he said that was a big learning curve. Parts that used to last years, were toast in a single race.
9" only and they're not pushing it.Ecgs does sell a "competition" 9" 3rd, fwiw.
That's been my point exactly for the past 5 pages.The problem I found with the 9" was that there was a gap between the regular parts and the big boy stuff, in price and strength. Basically you can do a pretty regular 9" nodular iron 3rd, or go full 10". Not much in between. The big difference is the ~$200 gears vs $1200 gears
So what's the major flaw with the 99-04 ub?No offense taken. I literally spent the last year or so doing research, only to find out in the past week that the 99-04 UBs had a major flaw that got fixed with the 05+ UBs, so now I've been starting the research all over from scratch to use the 05+ UBs.
The BKOR is maybe $700 cheaper and doesn't come with heavily keyed arms... and is still cast steel knuckles. And given how much I probably won't make full use of the Crane magnums, I probably won't make full use of the BKOR knuckle setup either. So why not overdue it? My goal is to drive this rig anywhere I want in the country, wheel whatever I want to, and drive home. That means hitting the plaque line on sledge, or 9s and 10s at sand hollow, then drive it back to california. If I have the money to overbuild it, why wouldn't i??
BKOR does have a better price on that brake kit though... Do you know if they have a bolt on application for rear axle too? Because from what I can search, it looks like they only have a package for the front axle since it connects to the stock oem cast knuckle caliper holes. Whereas the Crane kit is setup for front or rear (as long as you run their weld cups).
It's smallSo what's the major flaw with the 99-04 ub?
I need more time in my life lol... rear axle is pretty much done. Finishing the electric parking brake brackets this weekend. Whoever designed the mounting plate on the calipers did a terrible job. The caliper is so leveraged off the axle I think I'm going to have to gusset the bracket more than the regular brake brackets. Other than that, just need seals and to redo the pvc insert that holds the drive slugs in place.
Rears are rcv 300m 36spl to 35spl custom shafts.So what are you doing for shafts ?
I machined down from the end, just far enough to have the snap ring groove show so that I can put the snap ring on.Did you machine down the ENTIRE slug 0.11"? Stupid question, and obviously too late to change anything, but why didn't you machine down only the area you need for your axle shaft snap ring?
Perhaps you could make a 0.11" spacer with a larger inside diameter to allow you to manipulate the snap ring.
You're gonna spend more doing 35sp when 40sp.Front, I will most likely be doing custom 36spl to 35spl 4340 inner shafts, with brannik 35spl 4340 1480 yokes and 4340 35spl 05+ UB stub shafts. And then either ctm 1480 joints or branik legacy 1480s. Gotta call branik and ask if their 4340 billet yokes are available in 35spl... looks like they only offer it in 40spl on their website.
Finally was able to get branik on the phone (been a while trying). Going with 1550 forged inners, and 1550 forged stubs. 36spl into the dif, 35spl outers. If I ever get to the point of turning this rig into a trailer queen, then I'll do direct drive outers and skip 40spl.You're gonna spend more doing 35sp when 40sp.
Doesn't make sense.
Not necessarily. The main point was to have kingpin steer joints, with unit bearings and no spindle. The 1550s were just a bonus. But, I just got off the phone with branik and I'm gonna be doing 1550 since they have forged 1550 blank inners on hand. So lead time won't be bad.I thought the whole point of those baller knuckles was to run 1550s?