The 4xFordYota Franken-Fine Axles!

[YotaAtieToo]

I think a call to Eaton wouldn't hurt. I might call them tomorrow morning just so I can find out for my own personal curiosity.

Good luck, I've heard their customer service is terrible

 

[Bebop]

I'm gonna go on and personally say something that is going to be ridiculed by a lot of people. haha. The 14B and the Ford 9in are the two strongest center sections in normal situations. Hands Down. But every single time I will always choose a Ford 9in drop out and Fabricated Housing before a 14B due to size and parts. A stock 9in drop out is tremendously smaller then the 14B. If you can cut shave and modify the 14B you can build a fabricated housing 9in just as easy. And when your ready to spend more money to upgrade. Put a High Pinion drop out in it for even more clearance. And match it to ANY gear set of your choice.

If you have a little more budget, build the Ford 9in drop out. Its far superior in many cases off-road compared to the 14b. IN MY OPININON. Not in the opinion of the condenses. lol

If you want to get a stock axle. Weld the diff. and go wheeling. Just buy a 14B. The 14B housing much more robust to ANY oem Ford 9in Housing. Either way no one is loosing but we cant GOD complex that axle It cant even fit on the pedestal most people put it on HAHA

9" design is a million times better than a 14 bolt. It's also a million times more expensive if you want a comparable strength unit.

And ARB has 35sp side gears for the tundra locker. I even think the part number has been posted on this board.

 

[Slander]

I'm gonna go on and personally say something that is going to be ridiculed by a lot of people. haha. The 14B and the Ford 9in are the two strongest center sections in normal situations. Hands Down. But every single time I will always choose a Ford 9in drop out and Fabricated Housing before a 14B due to size and parts. A stock 9in drop out is tremendously smaller then the 14B. If you can cut shave and modify the 14B you can build a fabricated housing 9in just as easy. And when your ready to spend more money to upgrade. Put a High Pinion drop out in it for even more clearance. And match it to ANY gear set of your choice.

If you have a little more budget, build the Ford 9in drop out. Its far superior in many cases off-road compared to the 14b. IN MY OPININON. Not in the opinion of the condenses. lol

If you want to get a stock axle. Weld the diff. and go wheeling. Just buy a 14B. The 14B housing much more robust to ANY oem Ford 9in Housing. Either way no one is loosing but we cant GOD complex that axle It cant even fit on the pedestal most people put it on HAHA

Location checks out

 

[Slander]

An not a single comment about the vent location?

Friggen fail.

Gotta be in a better spot than the location on this piece of shit fj80 rear!!

 

[YotaAtieToo]

9" and 14b aren't really in the same ballpark.

My buddy destroyed a mild built 9" in a 4cyl 4runner on 37s. Broke the chromo axle at the flange, blew the locker up, and even damaged the 3rd.

9" is only good if you just start with all new parts. Those 10" gear sets are over $1000 though, and aren't meant to be ran down the highway. The next issue is size of the locker. You're kinda stuck with a spool or $2500 arb if you want to be in the big boy realm.

I do like the 9" for a lot of reasons, but you just can't even compare it to a 14b.

 

[Ocd_Fab]

Good luck, I've heard their customer service is terrible

I have dealt with them before at the old shop I used to work at so I have a contact that was more helpful then most. Hopefuly he still works there. I emailed him to call me tomorrow. I'm going to almost bet they have the side gears.

9" design is a million times better than a 14 bolt. It's also a million times more expensive if you want a comparable strength unit.

And ARB has 35sp side gears for the tundra locker. I even think the part number has been posted on this board.

I think if you make it expensive absolutely. But as a general statement I do not see it being as expensive as most people think. I buy 3rd members for $100-200 all day from drag race guys and circle tract guys with gears and spools all day long. A fabricated housing from Ruffstuff is 1180 retail but if you wanted to go a cheaper route I have the CNC files to cut out a housing on a CNC table. you'd have to jig it yourself but thats the life if you wanted to go DIY. You can also buy a fabricated center section from Ebay for $300-400. And as we all know you can just disk brake and brace and truss a Ford F100 rear housing also for some strength. To top that off your lug pattern options are endless. I think its actually cheaper If you look at a comparable axle to axle built the same way. But to each there own.

Gotta be in a better spot than the location on this piece of shit fj80 rear!!

What generation FJ80 axle ? My breather on my full float axles are on top Front and Rear E locker and non E locker. I don't recall where they are on the semi float axle.

 

[Ocd_Fab]

9" and 14b aren't really in the same ballpark.

My buddy destroyed a mild built 9" in a 4cyl 4runner on 37s. Broke the chromo axle at the flange, blew the locker up, and even damaged the 3rd.

9" is only good if you just start with all new parts. Those 10" gear sets are over $1000 though, and aren't meant to be ran down the highway. The next issue is size of the locker. You're kinda stuck with a spool or $2500 arb if you want to be in the big boy realm.

I do like the 9" for a lot of reasons, but you just can't even compare it to a 14b.

And thats exactly my point. Its not comparable to eachother unless they are compared under the same build. Ive seen them blow up under small 4cyl rigs with too much gears ( Pinion turns into a worm gear after 5.83 gears I believe ) But then I have a stock braced 9in under a fox body pushing 850+ on small tire slicks gripped up doing 4000rpm launches on a spool and richmond gears. I think they are comparable if need be but If had the choice its all in the builder. So ehh. They both are strong and good in there own ways

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I have dealt with them before at the old shop I used to work at so I have a contact that was more helpful then most. Hopefuly he still works there. I emailed him to call me tomorrow. I'm going to almost bet they have the side gears.


I think if you make it expensive absolutely. But as a general statement I do not see it being as expensive as most people think. I buy 3rd members for $100-200 all day from drag race guys and circle tract guys with gears and spools all day long. A fabricated housing from Ruffstuff is 1180 retail but if you wanted to go a cheaper route I have the CNC files to cut out a housing on a CNC table. you'd have to jig it yourself but thats the life if you wanted to go DIY. You can also buy a fabricated center section from Ebay for $300-400. And as we all know you can just disk brake and brace and truss a Ford F100 rear housing also for some strength. To top that off your lug pattern options are endless. I think its actually cheaper If you look at a comparable axle to axle built the same way. But to each there own.

Thats all fine and great, but with those parts, you aren't anywhere near even a stock 14b.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

And thats exactly my point. Its not comparable to eachother unless they are compared under the same build. Ive seen them blow up under small 4cyl rigs with too much gears ( Pinion turns into a worm gear after 5.83 gears I believe ) But then I have a stock braced 9in under a fox body pushing 850+ on small tire slicks gripped up doing 4000rpm launches on a spool and richmond gears. I think they are comparable if need be but If had the choice its all in the builder. So ehh. They both are strong and good in there own ways

Oh, here we go with guys talking drag cars in a rock crawler forum

10 bolts also will hold a bunch of power in a car. I know a guy who ran ~1500 hp through a stock Datsun 240z diff. None of that means shit in a rock crawler/bouncer application.

I do like the ability to grow though like you said. Also fwiw, a Gear works 10" load bolt bare housing is only like $450. So if you're buying a 3rd, go that route, even if you put peasant gears in it

 

[Ocd_Fab]

Oh, here we go with guys talking drag cars in a rock crawler forum

10 bolts also will hold a bunch of power in a car. I know a guy who ran ~1500 hp through a stock Datsun 240z diff. None of that means shit in a rock crawler/bouncer application.

I do like the ability to grow though like you said. Also fwiw, a Gear works 10" load bolt bare housing is only like $450. So if you're buying a 3rd, go that route, even if you put peasant gears in it

Lmfao. I do NOT want to be that asshole bringing drag racing into the crawler world 🤣 I'm just not biased and work on everything so tend to bring points from other worlds together. A nitrous or boost car with 1000-1500 can leave the line at little boost or little hit off the bottle to soften the load and ramp in harder allowing a 10 bolt or 12 bolt to survive or Nissan diff lol. But I don't wanna go down that rabbit hole act like I never said anything 😂

In my eyes being able to grow into the 9in with tremendously more ground clearance is why I would choose that route and that's possibly the reason someone else might not. I'm putting together a "budget 9in axles" build for the wife's rig for a YouTube video just to show it doesn't have to always be don't with crazy housings and aftermarket outters to achieve a goal. Well see how that goes. Too busy as it is lol

 

[Slander]

What generation FJ80 axle ? My breather on my full float axles are on top Front and Rear E locker and non E locker. I don't recall where they are on the semi float axle.

To avoid further shitting up of this thread, look like 4 posts down from this one on the main page.

 

[Ocd_Fab]

To avoid further shitting up of this thread, look like 4 posts down from this one on the main page.

Thanks! I'll look into it.

Highly agree. We basically hijacked Tyler's post but in retrospect we are talking about building axles on his axle building thread. Lol.

 

[Bebop]

I think if you make it expensive absolutely. But as a general statement I do not see it being as expensive as most people think. I buy 3rd members for $100-200 all day from drag race guys and circle tract guys with gears and spools all day long. A fabricated housing from Ruffstuff is 1180 retail but if you wanted to go a cheaper route I have the CNC files to cut out a housing on a CNC table. you'd have to jig it yourself but thats the life if you wanted to go DIY. You can also buy a fabricated center section from Ebay for $300-400. And as we all know you can just disk brake and brace and truss a Ford F100 rear housing also for some strength. To top that off your lug pattern options are endless. I think its actually cheaper If you look at a comparable axle to axle built the same way. But to each there own.

I can put a 14 bolt together that will live behind a 500hp engine and 43" tires with a retard driver for about 3k.

Absolutely impossible to do that with a 9" for that price.

9" and 14b aren't really in the same ballpark.

My buddy destroyed a mild built 9" in a 4cyl 4runner on 37s. Broke the chromo axle at the flange, blew the locker up, and even damaged the 3rd.

9" is only good if you just start with all new parts. Those 10" gear sets are over $1000 though, and aren't meant to be ran down the highway. The next issue is size of the locker. You're kinda stuck with a spool or $2500 arb if you want to be in the big boy realm.

I do like the 9" for a lot of reasons, but you just can't even compare it to a 14b.

My point exactly.

 

[4x4toyotatyler]

Wow lots to catch up on... yall are busy talkers lol

Called bkor, talked to brenan and trey. Awesome guys. They had a few questions but overall they said the build should work for my application no problem. So ordered up all my outers and brakes. Should be here in 5-7 days.

With regards to arbs, it's not the air lines I have issues with. But thank you for making assumptions on my applications without trying to understand my applications........ again.

Yes, you can modify a tundra arb and put 35 spline side gears on it. The tundra shafts are 36 spline, 1.49" di. Dana shafts are 35 spline 1.5" di. Swapping the side gears is commonly done, its just not something I wanted to do. Unsure if you can do the same thing to an eaton.

I already have the rear axle shafts. Someone literally had the shafts I needed and wasnt using them anymore. So I got the 2 rear shafts for $400 (36 to 35 spline 300m rcvs). Thus my wms is going to be set by those.

The advantage to the 8x6.5 is so that I can run the 17x9.5 with 4.5bs wheels (9.5 for a wider footprint snow wheeling, and 4.5 to push things out ever so more slightly). Those combined with the wms should put me right around 88" track width. Which is what I'm shooting for.

 

[Bebop]

Wow lots to catch up on... yall are busy talkers lol

Called bkor, talked to brenan and trey. Awesome guys. They had a few questions but overall they said the build should work for my application no problem. So ordered up all my outers and brakes. Should be here in 5-7 days.

Good good. Glad you're sharing your wealth with my friends...

The advantage to the 8x6.5 is so that I can run the 17x9.5 with 4.5bs wheels (9.5 for a wider footprint snow wheeling, and 4.5 to push things out ever so more slightly). Those combined with the wms should put me right around 88" track width. Which is what I'm shooting for.

Cause back spacing and wheel width are totally correlated with bolt pattern...

Yes, you can modify a tundra arb and put 35 spline side gears on it. The tundra shafts are 36 spline, 1.49" di. Dana shafts are 35 spline 1.5" di. Swapping the side gears is commonly done, its just not something I wanted to do. Unsure if you can do the same thing to an eaton.

I already have the rear axle shafts. Someone literally had the shafts I needed and wasnt using them anymore. So I got the 2 rear shafts for $400 (36 to 35 spline 300m rcvs). Thus my wms is going to be set by those.

For once, I think you're in the right given the constraints. If you have 36sp out back, you should stay with the same third in the front, for interchangeability.

 

[4x4toyotatyler]

Thanks! I'll look into it.

Highly agree. We basically hijacked Tyler's post but in retrospect we are talking about building axles on his axle building thread. Lol.

Haha I'm all for it. I love seeing axle talk. I don't know what it is about them, but axles are fun to me.

 

[4x4toyotatyler]

Cause back spacing and wheel width are totally correlated with bolt pattern...

In this instance, yes, yes they are. But I enjoy your sarcasm, so keep it up.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Wow lots to catch up on... yall are busy talkers lol

Called bkor, talked to brenan and trey. Awesome guys. They had a few questions but overall they said the build should work for my application no problem. So ordered up all my outers and brakes. Should be here in 5-7 days.

With regards to arbs, it's not the air lines I have issues with. But thank you for making assumptions on my applications without trying to understand my applications........ again.

Do you even emoji bro?

It was a jab, I throught we were having fun now?

Yes, you can modify a tundra arb and put 35 spline side gears on it. The tundra shafts are 36 spline, 1.49" di. Dana shafts are 35 spline 1.5" di. Swapping the side gears is commonly done, its just not something I wanted to do. Unsure if you can do the same thing to an eaton.

I already have the rear axle shafts. Someone literally had the shafts I needed and wasnt using them anymore. So I got the 2 rear shafts for $400 (36 to 35 spline 300m rcvs). Thus my wms is going to be set by those.

The advantage to the 8x6.5 is so that I can run the 17x9.5 with 4.5bs wheels (9.5 for a wider footprint snow wheeling, and 4.5 to push things out ever so more slightly). Those combined with the wms should put me right around 88" track width. Which is what I'm shooting for.

I haven't looked at 8x170 beadlocks in a while, are you saying you can't find the specs you want in that pattern?

Why not just call trail ready and order exactly what you want In a 17x10?

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Also, fwiw, I ran 42s on a 2nd gen 4runner with an 84" front track width (4.75" bs and 69.5" wms) and it worked really well. Not saying 88" won't also work. But I wouldn't be afraid of being a few inches narrower.

 

[chaplinfj60]

my front currently is 91 love it..

 

[Ocd_Fab]

Wow lots to catch up on... yall are busy talkers lol

Called bkor, talked to brenan and trey. Awesome guys. They had a few questions but overall they said the build should work for my application no problem. So ordered up all my outers and brakes. Should be here in 5-7 days.

With regards to arbs, it's not the air lines I have issues with. But thank you for making assumptions on my applications without trying to understand my applications........ again.

Yes, you can modify a tundra arb and put 35 spline side gears on it. The tundra shafts are 36 spline, 1.49" di. Dana shafts are 35 spline 1.5" di. Swapping the side gears is commonly done, its just not something I wanted to do. Unsure if you can do the same thing to an eaton.

I already have the rear axle shafts. Someone literally had the shafts I needed and wasnt using them anymore. So I got the 2 rear shafts for $400 (36 to 35 spline 300m rcvs). Thus my wms is going to be set by those.

The advantage to the 8x6.5 is so that I can run the 17x9.5 with 4.5bs wheels (9.5 for a wider footprint snow wheeling, and 4.5 to push things out ever so more slightly). Those combined with the wms should put me right around 88" track width. Which is what I'm shooting for.

I remember you saying you got the axles a while ago on your podcast so that was obviously the case when you decided to go that route. But just to add food for thought on anyone else not In that situation I think ordering with 35 spline side gears might make the parts a little more easier to replace and source if someone wanted to follow your build structure. That's all

Good good. Glad you're sharing your wealth with my friends...


Cause back spacing and wheel width are totally correlated with bolt pattern...


For once, I think you're in the right given the constraints. If you have 36sp out back, you should stay with the same third in the front, for interchangeability.

I believe he forgot to add the fact that he has wheels already, I think he got a deal on 8x6.5 beadlocks so that was his reason for going with that lug pattern.

Do you even emoji bro?

It was a jab, I throught we were having fun now?



I haven't looked at 8x170 beadlocks in a while, are you saying you can't find the specs you want in that pattern?

Why not just call trail ready and order exactly what you want In a 17x10?

There are a lot of companies now making 8x170mm Beadlocks almost any spec you need. Im running Hutchinson Racing 2pc Double Beadlocks now but I don't care for them. I'm gonna buy a set from trail ready and sell these POS.

Also, fwiw, I ran 42s on a 2nd gen 4runner with an 84" front track width (4.75" bs and 69.5" wms) and it worked really well. Not saying 88" won't also work. But I wouldn't be afraid of being a few inches narrower.

I know your Tag says ID so I'm not sure what kind of trails you guys have out there. Rubicon and Fordyce have a lot of places where a 75+ WMS is a bitch to pinch threw and make turns. But who the Fuck Cares when you can go over what your trying to turn around lol. I lot more people here try and stay narrow. Most Superduty 72WMS work perfect because they have a great turning radius. But that is all builder specific. I choose wide every time.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I remember you saying you got the axles a while ago on your podcast so that was obviously the case when you decided to go that route. But just to add food for thought on anyone else not In that situation I think ordering with 35 spline side gears might make the parts a little more easier to replace and source if someone wanted to follow your build structure. That's all



I believe he forgot to add the fact that he has wheels already, I think he got a deal on 8x6.5 beadlocks so that was his reason for going with that lug pattern.



There are a lot of companies now making 8x170mm Beadlocks almost any spec you need. Im running Hutchinson Racing 2pc Double Beadlocks now but I don't care for them. I'm gonna buy a set from trail ready and sell these POS.



I know your Tag says ID so I'm not sure what kind of trails you guys have out there. Rubicon and Fordyce have a lot of places where a 75+ WMS is a bitch to pinch threw and make turns. But who the Fuck Cares when you can go over what your trying to turn around lol. I lot more people here try and stay narrow. Most Superduty 72WMS work perfect because they have a great turning radius. But that is all builder specific. I choose wide every time.

I was in nor cal until a little over a year ago. So I know those trails well. I've always been a fan of being narrower than most. I never measured it, but I fit between the fenders of a car trailer with 14.5 tires. So 83-84" I thought it was perfect and wouldn't want to be much wider personally.

 

[Ocd_Fab]

I can put a 14 bolt together that will live behind a 500hp engine and 43" tires with a retard driver for about 3k.

Absolutely impossible to do that with a 9" for that price.

This is where I say that statement is not 100% accurate. Lets just float the idea you have and base this off of a $3,000 rear axle stock to stock.

Both a Chevy SRW 14B and a F100 Ford 9" can be found for +/- $250 complete. So lets call that a wash and focus on parts.

This is a $3,000 ish Budget for a 9in that you can, as you say. " Live behind a 500hp Engine and a Idiot Driver "

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ford 9in Complete Axle with 3rd. $250

Parts List :

5.13 Gears ( G2 Axle & Gear ) ; 2-2011-513 / $239.99

G2 Gear Install Kit ; 35-2011C / $143.99

QuickTime Performance 40spline Spool ; F9DS40 / $119.99

Crane Axle 05+ Unit Bearing Cups ; NO P# / $599.99

Artec 9 Upper Full Truss ; TR0902 / $229.99

Artec 9 Backbone Truss ; TR0905 / $144.99

SuperDuty 40 Spline Drive Flange's ; DFK-D60SD-40E / $250.00

Pilot Automotive Unit Bearings ; HB515081 / $90.79each $181.58

Raybestos Rline Pad & Rotor Kit ; 1068MH680394R / $122.79

Cardone RL Caliper ; 184921 / $42.79

Cardone RR Caliper ; 184920 / $42.79

Currie 40-Spline Chromoly Axle Shaft ; CE-1015FU / $310each $620

RuffStuff Pinion Gaurd ; R1139 / $69.95

Plate Steel and Time to Add Skids To Bottom Of Housing $150

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Total : $2888.9


Lets Do a Comparable 14B.


Chevy 14Bolt Complete Axle $250

Parts List :

5.13 Gears ( G2 Axle & Gear ) ; 2-2023-513X / $269.99

G2 Gear Install Kit ; 35-2023 / $209.99

CraneAxle 14B 40 Spline Spool ; FSGM14T-40 / $419.99

RuffStuff 14B Disk Brake Kit ; R1877 / $359.86

Artec 14B Full Upper Truss ; TR1401 / $419.99

Artec 14B BackBone ; TR1407 / $174.99

ECGS 14B Wheel Bearing Kit ; ABKR-GM14T / $65.00

Banik 14B 40 Spline Flange Kit ; RDFK-14B-40 / $325

Currie 40-Spline Chromoly Axle Shaft ; CE-1015FU / $310each / $620

RuffStuff Pinion Gaurd ; R1023 / $69.95

RuffStuff Diff Cover ; R1266 / $160.95

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Total : $3095.71


So what we have here is a 40 spline to 40 spline as close of a build I can do in the wasted hour I spent on this reply. Im not here to argue over what companies and situations you'd go with. Just what available in the market and sticking to your quoted budget.

Witch on is stronger? THE 14B. Because the Spool and Gears are larger and the axle tube/housing design is stronger. Plus the 9" would take twice as much time to build in comparison. But witch build would I take? The Ford 9. The 14B ground clearance would need a shave kit and still be much larger. You would Run 43" Tires to have the same Ground Clearance as me on 40" tires. Yes you could ditch the trusses in that build spread and adjust parts to fit a Ballistic Shave kit and stay under budget. But I'm talking about as side by side as I could make this really quick to compare to the work done on the 9". You can spool and gear a stock 14B with 35Spline chromo's and It would break less then a stock 9in with spool, gears, and 35 spline chromo's. Its all how someone wants there shit built at the end of the day. But we gotta stop with this GOD complex on that PIG of an axle, they both have advantages and drawbacks.

I would never Build a stock housing and not many people would. To sum this up you can build a 9" to run up against any 14B, for around the same cost. And Still grow into the axle as I wanted. Hi9 HP 3rd housing. 47 Spline. Ruffstuff Axle Housing. AND have a spare Diff at base camp or tow rig to swap into front or rear for emergency. All I wanted to do here was show we are all right and wrong in so many ways.



Yet as we sit here and argue over who has the shinier parts there is a 18 year old kid on Rubicon with toyota axles and 35's having the time of his life. Like we all started. Who the Fuck cares anyways lol

 

[Ocd_Fab]

I was in nor cal until a little over a year ago. So I know those trails well. I've always been a fan of being narrower than most. I never measured it, but I fit between the fenders of a car trailer with 14.5 tires. So 83-84" I thought it was perfect and wouldn't want to be much wider personally.

Nice! Yeah I was born and raised here in SHIT HOLE Sacramento. Are you referring to the outside of your tires or the actual wheel mount surface? Most car trailers are around 80-82 in between fenders.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Nice! Yeah I was born and raised here in SHIT HOLE Sacramento. Are you referring to the outside of your tires or the actual wheel mount surface? Most car trailers are around 80-82 in between fenders.

I came from paradise, so spent a lot of time in the Sierras summer and winter. Lots of guys I know are wide as fuck like 102" or more and make it work, but I think it's retarded.

Out side of tires. It was a pj buggy hauler. They're 83" between the fenders, and iirc, it squeaked through, so that's why I said 84"

 

[Ocd_Fab]

I came from paradise, so spent a lot of time in the Sierras summer and winter. Lots of guys I know are wide as fuck like 102" or more and make it work, but I think it's retarded.

Out side of tires. It was a pj buggy hauler. They're 83" between the fenders, and iirc, it squeaked through, so that's why I said 84"

I just put a order in for my Maxxd Buddy Hauler wide drive overs. It's the widest I can have in California legally and for some reason I can't find the build sheet to see how wide that is. Ehh. Whatever.

I have some good friends in Paradice And Oroville area. Terribly sorry if you or anyone were impacted by the fire. We have one coming threw GeorgeTown right now as we speak that is not garentee'd but highly likely caused by PG&E again...

I had a buddy who ran a KP with non milled DRW hubs and crazy offset wheels. He was so wide that he literally towed it on the back of a landall behind a semi. I told him he was an idiot 🤣

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I just put a order in for my Maxxd Buddy Hauler wide drive overs. It's the widest I can have in California legally and for some reason I can't find the build sheet to see how wide that is. Ehh. Whatever.

I have some good friends in Paradice And Oroville area. Terribly sorry if you or anyone were impacted by the fire. We have one coming threw GeorgeTown right now as we speak that is not garentee'd but highly likely caused by PG&E again...

I had a buddy who ran a KP with non milled DRW hubs and crazy offset wheels. He was so wide that he literally towed it on the back of a landall behind a semi. I told him he was an idiot 🤣

83" is pretty much max width between fenders. 102" is max legal width pretty much nationwide.

Good choice in maxxd also, they make a better trailer than most.

Fires are no fun, especially when they're out of control every year.

Right before I moves there was a kid building a rig with a dually axle, 1" bs 20x14s and 49x21 iroks

 

[Bebop]

This is where I say that statement is not 100% accurate. Lets just float the idea you have and base this off of a $3,000 rear axle stock to stock.

Both a Chevy SRW 14B and a F100 Ford 9" can be found for +/- $250 complete. So lets call that a wash and focus on parts.

This is a $3,000 ish Budget for a 9in that you can, as you say. " Live behind a 500hp Engine and a Idiot Driver "

INSERT BUNCH OF NUMBERS HERE

I would love to argue with you all day.

But I'll just point out that your numbers comparison is based off of a stock housing 9" and a stock third member, which are notoriously shitty.
Now you add a strange case and a proper housing and the cost is through the roof.

On the other hand, I know of some china 40sp spools and china ring and pinion for cheap that don't break and will save you money.

In both cases, you didn't include any pinion. Which is fine with a 14 bolt as they come with either 1350 or 1480 forged yokes from the factory (so you can reuse them) vs the 9" which has crappy 1310 yokes



Again, if I had money I'd build a 9" based axle. But I don't so I run 14 bolts.

And I'm 93" wide outside of the tires, turn 45 degrees and would not want it any other way.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

This is where I say that statement is not 100% accurate. Lets just float the idea you have and base this off of a $3,000 rear axle stock to stock.

Both a Chevy SRW 14B and a F100 Ford 9" can be found for +/- $250 complete. So lets call that a wash and focus on parts.

This is a $3,000 ish Budget for a 9in that you can, as you say. " Live behind a 500hp Engine and a Idiot Driver "

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ford 9in Complete Axle with 3rd. $250

Parts List :

5.13 Gears ( G2 Axle & Gear ) ; 2-2011-513 / $239.99

G2 Gear Install Kit ; 35-2011C / $143.99

QuickTime Performance 40spline Spool ; F9DS40 / $119.99

Crane Axle 05+ Unit Bearing Cups ; NO P# / $599.99

Artec 9 Upper Full Truss ; TR0902 / $229.99

Artec 9 Backbone Truss ; TR0905 / $144.99

SuperDuty 40 Spline Drive Flange's ; DFK-D60SD-40E / $250.00

Pilot Automotive Unit Bearings ; HB515081 / $90.79each $181.58

Raybestos Rline Pad & Rotor Kit ; 1068MH680394R / $122.79

Cardone RL Caliper ; 184921 / $42.79

Cardone RR Caliper ; 184920 / $42.79

Currie 40-Spline Chromoly Axle Shaft ; CE-1015FU / $310each $620

RuffStuff Pinion Gaurd ; R1139 / $69.95

Plate Steel and Time to Add Skids To Bottom Of Housing $150

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Total : $2888.9


Lets Do a Comparable 14B.


Chevy 14Bolt Complete Axle $250

Parts List :

5.13 Gears ( G2 Axle & Gear ) ; 2-2023-513X / $269.99

G2 Gear Install Kit ; 35-2023 / $209.99

CraneAxle 14B 40 Spline Spool ; FSGM14T-40 / $419.99

RuffStuff 14B Disk Brake Kit ; R1877 / $359.86

Artec 14B Full Upper Truss ; TR1401 / $419.99

Artec 14B BackBone ; TR1407 / $174.99

ECGS 14B Wheel Bearing Kit ; ABKR-GM14T / $65.00

Banik 14B 40 Spline Flange Kit ; RDFK-14B-40 / $325

Currie 40-Spline Chromoly Axle Shaft ; CE-1015FU / $310each / $620

RuffStuff Pinion Gaurd ; R1023 / $69.95

RuffStuff Diff Cover ; R1266 / $160.95

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Total : $3095.71


So what we have here is a 40 spline to 40 spline as close of a build I can do in the wasted hour I spent on this reply. Im not here to argue over what companies and situations you'd go with. Just what available in the market and sticking to your quoted budget.

Witch on is stronger? THE 14B. Because the Spool and Gears are larger and the axle tube/housing design is stronger. Plus the 9" would take twice as much time to build in comparison. But witch build would I take? The Ford 9. The 14B ground clearance would need a shave kit and still be much larger. You would Run 43" Tires to have the same Ground Clearance as me on 40" tires. Yes you could ditch the trusses in that build spread and adjust parts to fit a Ballistic Shave kit and stay under budget. But I'm talking about as side by side as I could make this really quick to compare to the work done on the 9". You can spool and gear a stock 14B with 35Spline chromo's and It would break less then a stock 9in with spool, gears, and 35 spline chromo's. Its all how someone wants there shit built at the end of the day. But we gotta stop with this GOD complex on that PIG of an axle, they both have advantages and drawbacks.

I would never Build a stock housing and not many people would. To sum this up you can build a 9" to run up against any 14B, for around the same cost. And Still grow into the axle as I wanted. Hi9 HP 3rd housing. 47 Spline. Ruffstuff Axle Housing. AND have a spare Diff at base camp or tow rig to swap into front or rear for emergency. All I wanted to do here was show we are all right and wrong in so many ways.



Yet as we sit here and argue over who has the shinier parts there is a 18 year old kid on Rubicon with toyota axles and 35's having the time of his life. Like we all started. Who the Fuck cares anyways lol

You're on crack if you think starting with a stock 9" is anything but a waste of time and money for a 500hp rig. A stock 3rd and housing is shit.

You also probably don't need to go all fany with 40 spline on the 14b. A spool, gears, and some good chromos, maybe a truss and you can rock out.

 

[Ocd_Fab]

I would love to argue with you all day.

But I'll just point out that your numbers comparison is based off of a stock housing 9" and a stock third member, which are notoriously shitty.
Now you add a strange case and a proper housing and the cost is through the roof.

On the other hand, I know of some china 40sp spools and china ring and pinion for cheap that don't break and will save you money.

In both cases, you didn't include any pinion. Which is fine with a 14 bolt as they come with either 1350 or 1480 forged yokes from the factory (so you can reuse them) vs the 9" which has crappy 1310 yokes



Again, if I had money I'd build a 9" based axle. But I don't so I run 14 bolts.

And I'm 93" wide outside of the tires, turn 45 degrees and would not want it any other way.

I said that at the bottom. The 9"housing is not even compatible in any way to a Dana 60/70/80 , Corp14 , or Sterling. It's much weaker. But completely trussed top and back with some plates I would take you up on the bet that I'd throw 500hp and a drunk idiot who can't drive at it.

I wasn't even going to get into flanges because that's all builder and buyer preference. Just didn't want to include it on that little thing I did up there. I'll throw a 1350 flange on the build sheet like you'd conventily see on a 14B and the price would even out between the two. I find good spools for cheaper but I was basing off of a spool I knew was good and strong in both axles. They are pretty different in cost though.

It was just strictly to show when you said $3k I said no. I can build a strong one for $3k even though its not a fabricated housing or aftermarket case. Haha.

I'm gonna measure the 4runner and see what my tire to tire is. I usually only measure WMS. I have 13.5 Iroks for the trail and 40x16.5 pitbulls for the snow. I'm gonna assume I'm around 85 - 90 in.