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The 4xFordYota Franken-Fine Axles!

You really need to just take a step back and do some real research.

Your parts list is laughable. You have these ridiculously huge $4k crane knuckles, only to run regular sized rcv's, then garbage e lockers and mile marker locking hubs?

You also have a very high goal, which is not always a bad thing, but you obviously lack the knowledge and experience to realize how tall of a goal it is. You want to run 80 mph across the country, run the hardest trails, but then have to stay "all Toyota" which is literally going to just be the 3rd member casting at this point :laughing:

What engine are you running that will even push a fat pig of a 1 ton 4runner at 80 anyway? :flipoff2:

You're not running 10 level trails at sand hollow and driving down the highway, those trails eat up well built buggies, much less a full body, street driven rig.

Figure out your number 1 priority, then work your way down from there. If it's highway driving, then, as ai mentioned, I'd be looking at more factory parts. Even the best parts can fail, so being able to get a bearing or rotor at napa in bfe could be the difference between a slight delay in your trip or having to call the whole thing off.

If you want ultimate strength, call up spider Trax and buy a pair of axles ready to go and ditch the selectable hubs and tundra 3rds.

I'm not against your idea to go to 05+ unit bearings, but I also think you're way underestimating the 99-04 stuff.
 
Meh... your right. I'm just gonna scrap the whole project and stay with my toyota axles since I'll never really need anything bigger.
 
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So what happens if you bend your front and rear driveshaft on the same trail?:flipoff2:

I drive my junk to and from the trail as well so I get where the logic and headspace is, but they make a good point about the spider trax stuff, I mean just unbolt one end of the front shaft and tie it up if you bend it.:grinpimp:
 
Meh... your right. I'm just gonna scrap the whole project and stay with my toyota axles since I'll never really need anything bigger.

Keep up with the blind arrogance and see how far you get. :homer:

You have some guys who have been doing this shit a long while and you can either take in the advice or not. If you want to throw $15k at a front axle just to have a mismatched pos that is impossible to find parts for, go ahead. Maybe IG is a better place for you?
 
Meh... your right. I'm just gonna scrap the whole project and stay with my toyota axles since I'll never really need anything bigger.

Nope.

I just think you're not planning to use the right parts for the job and I'm letting you know.

I understand why you may want selectable hubs, but they're junk. There is not a single selectable hub that will hold to actual abuse. And removing a bent driveshaft is very very easy if you need to go down the road.

e-lockers are notoriously junk and that's a very well known fact.

Again, it seems to me that you may know what's what in the yota world, but when it comes to tons, you're lacking a lot.

I don't even understand why you haven't explored the route of going with the classic kingpin 60 stuff. A set of Solid outers would do exactly what you need without breaking the bank.
 
Why does everyone insist on talking OP out of this? Hey, I think it maybe a waste of time and money too, but maybe it’s not. I’m glad 4x4toyotatyler is willing to try something different, we can all learn from this, even if the end result is “ wow, that was a ton of $$$ for a shitty axle”. How many “dumb builds” on new (to the community) hardware were done before it became adopted? Bet the first guy to build an 8.8 for his Jeep caught shit too. The 14b was slandered as a big fat pig with no aftermarket support not that long ago. Tyler thinks he can make a market for Tundra 10.5. He’s probably wrong, but it’s fun to follow along either way. Lighten up everyone! State your objections or suggestions, OP can take them or not, and let’s move along. I wanna see this get built even if it’s to point and laugh later:flipoff2:
 
He's not trying anything different. All of these parts exist (nothing prototype here) and have been available for a long time.
 
Keep up with the blind arrogance and see how far you get. :homer:

You have some guys who have been doing this shit a long while and you can either take in the advice or not. If you want to throw $15k at a front axle just to have a mismatched pos that is impossible to find parts for, go ahead. Maybe IG is a better place for you?
Lol see, this is where you just lost all credibility and why it's difficult to listen to your opinionated bullshit. You just made 2 claims in that statement that are completely false, which makes me believe that you have no idea what you're talking about.

#1 that I'm putting 15k into the front axle. Even if I went with crane stuff, the front axle would cost maybe 10k. If I go with bkor, then it will end up being around 8k max.

#2 the whole concept here is to build something stronger than I can break and keep the Wearable parts all similar and off the shelf so that I can carry spares simpler. By having the same unit bearings on all 4 corners, same brakes all 4 corners, and same diffs front and rear, standard 1550 ujoints (you keep saying I'm doing small rcvs... no idea where that's coming from???) it makes spare parts stupid simple if I were to break anything. So you're way off base with that claim too.

And #3 if I went with just a full spidertrax setup, ya it would be stupid strong too, but it wouldn't be what I want functionally, AND I'll have a full set of axles with NOTHING BUT aftermarket parts that I can't get shit for if I break anything. You are just completely contradicting yourself which makes me lol pretty hard.

Maybe you're the one that should stick to IG or you're safe little bubble... oh I forget that that's not what irate is all about. Carry on.
 
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Why does everyone insist on talking OP out of this? Hey, I think it maybe a waste of time and money too, but maybe it’s not. I’m glad 4x4toyotatyler is willing to try something different, we can all learn from this, even if the end result is “ wow, that was a ton of $$$ for a shitty axle”. How many “dumb builds” on new (to the community) hardware were done before it became adopted? Bet the first guy to build an 8.8 for his Jeep caught shit too. The 14b was slandered as a big fat pig with no aftermarket support not that long ago. Tyler thinks he can make a market for Tundra 10.5. He’s probably wrong, but it’s fun to follow along either way. Lighten up everyone! State your objections or suggestions, OP can take them or not, and let’s move along. I wanna see this get built even if it’s to point and laugh later:flipoff2:
Lol that's the spirit!
 
He's not trying anything different. All of these parts exist (nothing prototype here) and have been available for a long time.
Of course all the parts exist. All the parts everyone else suggested exist as well, he’s just using them in a different recipe than everyone else is accustomed to. Maybe this casserole will taste like shit, but it’s his casserole.
 
Of course all the parts exist. All the parts everyone else suggested exist as well, he’s just using them in a different recipe than everyone else is accustomed to. Maybe this casserole will taste like shit, but it’s his casserole.
Then why post here for opinions and advice instead of presenting us the finished product?
 
Then why post here for opinions and advice instead of presenting us the finished product?
Content:flipoff2: Sitting here as a reader, the suggestions were asked for implicitly by OP as he chose to post here. Some of what I’m reading are more along the lines of “ur a dumbshit if u don’t build it exactly as I say”. That’s not advice. You and others have given advice that is well-intentioned and accurate. Why everyone gets butt-hurt when the guy spending the money won’t take it is beyond me. Go build your own axle on IBB and show him up with how cheap, tough, and easy it is to do it your way. I’ll sub that one too:grinpimp:
 
OMG You're one of those.

Sitting here as a reader, the suggestions were asked for implicitly by OP as he chose to post here. Some of what I’m reading are more along the lines of “ur a dumbshit if u don’t build it exactly as I say”. That’s not advice.
Welcome to IBB, I'm sorry I offended your feelings.

You and others have given advice that is well-intentioned and accurate.
If it's accurate, take the advice instead of whining

Why everyone gets butt-hurt when the guy spending the money won’t take it is beyond me.
I promise you, I'm not butthurt. Got better things to do today.

Go build your own axle on IBB and show him up with how cheap, tough, and easy it is to do it your way. I’ll sub that one too:grinpimp:
I have done it, years ago.
In the mean time I have built a lot more axles using a lot of different parts and think that I have a pretty good idea of what I'm talking about.

 
LMAO I'm sorry... But did Bebop just metaphorically complain about content, and then post content as proof of him being a badass axle builder??? That is pretty funny. You guys are killing me hahahhaa

That post literally just solidified to me that you just want to complain and bitch because I am not doing something how you would do it. Go blow smoke up someone else's panties. I do really appreciate the thoughts and advice. The build has taken multiple turns now over the past week, and I am pretty sure where I am going to go with it now... and it is thanks to you guys! Now, on to my casserole...
 
Also... I am not sure why everyone keeps saying I am not taking advice?? Just because I dont want to take the easy route of sending spidertrax a check and have them send me a completed set of axles??? That's not fun at all.

I will be calling BKOR today to get some final details on the 14B builder kit... but since I gotta buy new wheels too by going 8x6.5, I am leaning towards the BKOR knuckles over the crane magnums. Already ordered the MM hubs so yall can suck it there.
 
The 14b was slandered as a big fat pig with no aftermarket support not that long ago.
Derail, but need to clear some things up for historical accuracy:
  1. The 14b didn't fall out of favor until recently by white claw sipping west coasters with more money than brains to burn on car axles modified for offroad use (the Ford 9"). Up until recently, and it still is, the shit for for offroad beef
  2. The 14b is/was/and always will be the greatest offroad axle ever created. Christ himself formed it with his love and grace
  3. You don't need aftermarket support when perfection was achieved from the factory, aftermarket people look at it and they can't think of anyway to improve it
  4. If you are scared of grinding a lip, or 3" of the bottom of the pumpkin off, turning down the ring gear and welding a plate on there, then this hobby isn't for you
  5. See 2 and 3
  6. There is a shrine to the 14b at the begining of each hard trail in the south east, legend has it if you light a candle, take a pull of shine, and leave broken d60 parts it's good luck on your journey up the obstacle
Thread re railed, just had to clear that up about the greatest piece of offroad engineering ever created.
 
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Lol see, this is where you just lost all credibility and why it's difficult to listen to your opinionated bullshit. You just made 2 claims in that statement that are completely false, which makes me believe that you have no idea what you're talking about.

You really have zero clue what you're talking about. You can't even actually read what I'm trying to say without getting defensive.

#1 that I'm putting 15k into the front axle. Even if I went with crane stuff, the front axle would cost maybe 10k. If I go with bkor, then it will end up being around 8k max.

You think you can build this fantasy front axle for $10k?:lmao:

Those crane outters are $4k and big bell rcv's are $5k:homer: not to. Mention I don't think they'll even do big bells with a regular 35 spline stub, which, why would they?

So $9k plus $1k from brakes, $2k for the 3rd, $1k for housing, $500 for locking hubs, plus a few hundred in misc, you're really damn close to $15k

#2 the whole concept here is to build something stronger than I can break and keep the Wearable parts all similar and off the shelf so that I can carry spares simpler. By having the same unit bearings on all 4 corners, same brakes all 4 corners, and same diffs front and rear, standard 1550 ujoints (you keep saying I'm doing small rcvs... no idea where that's coming from???) it makes spare parts stupid simple if I were to break anything. So you're way off base with that claim too.

And #3 if I went with just a full spidertrax setup, ya it would be stupid strong too, but it wouldn't be what I want functionally, AND I'll have a full set of axles with NOTHING BUT aftermarket parts that I can't get shit for if I break anything. You are just completely contradicting yourself which makes me lol pretty hard.

Maybe you're the one that should stick to IG or you're safe little bubble... oh I forget that that's not what irate is all about. Carry on.


You also say, "off the shelf" like crane magnum knuckles and will wood brakes are going to be available at napa.

It's not contradictory if you actually read what I posted. Maybe try it again. You are clearly the one contradicting. You say ultimate strength then say you're using elocker and mile marker hubs. You say common off the shelf parts, butt then mention fully custom outters and brakes with one off wear items.

Like I said, if you actually read, we're trying to give you some direction on a big purchase that you clearly haven't researched much, take it or leave it.
 
Well, what did you decide on?
Pending final deets from BKOR....

Front -
diamond 10.5" housing, 3.5" tubes (already have)
BKOR 14B builder knuckle kit
1550s
35spline outers
05+ SD UBs
Wilwood brake kit with 1.25" rotors
Tundra 10.5" dropout third, 5.29, e locker (already have)
Custom 300m shafts (ill probably call rcv on those for their warranty but that is the easy part of the puzzle)
Mile Marker selectable hubs (ordered)

Rear:
diamond 10.5" housing (already have)
weld cups (probably from BKOR so I can order them same time as the knuckles and UBs)
same brake kit as front
same UBs as front
same third member as front (already have)
custom 36 spline to 35 spline 300m shafts from RCV (already have)
Wilwood electric parking brake for 1.25" rotors
 
Content:flipoff2: Sitting here as a reader, the suggestions were asked for implicitly by OP as he chose to post here. Some of what I’m reading are more along the lines of “ur a dumbshit if u don’t build it exactly as I say”. That’s not advice. You and others have given advice that is well-intentioned and accurate. Why everyone gets butt-hurt when the guy spending the money won’t take it is beyond me. Go build your own axle on IBB and show him up with how cheap, tough, and easy it is to do it your way. I’ll sub that one too:grinpimp:

It's more his attitude that "I have no idea what I'm doing, lulz" then people trying to point out some mistakes and he then comes back as a know it all. I don't care how he spends his money, but the beauty of this forum is that if you're being an idiot, people will point it out. Lots to learn if you want to.
 
Are you using 1550s or rcv's?

Why go to 8x6.5? That makes the UB "custom" and much harder to replace from a parts store, with no real gain.

Milmarker hubs :lmao:
 
Those crane outters are $4k and big bell rcv's are $5k:homer: not to. Mention I don't think they'll even do big bells with a regular 35 spline stub, which, why would they?
I still have no clue where you think I am doing RCV outers from. RCV "birfield" style joint outers have been off my list for almost a year now. Get out of your own head dude. That statement right there tells me everything I need to know that you aren't listening to anything or considering anything I am asking for advice on. You are just spewing "your recipe" out rather than opening your mind and finding different things that might make this work. You just lost even more credibility with me lol.
 
Are you using 1550s or rcv's?

Why go to 8x6.5? That makes the UB "custom" and much harder to replace from a parts store, with no real gain.

Milmarker hubs :lmao:
An 8x6.5 UB is just drilled for 8x6.5... the holes for the studs for 8x170 are still there numbnuts. If I realllllyyyyyyyy needed to, I could just move the studs over to the 8x170... but the only thing that matters for the 8x6.5 is the brake hat and wheels. Do you really think the brake hat and wheels are going to be my weak link??? You are a special kind of special if you do.

And 1550s... I have never been planning on using RCV bells.

edit You are still also too dense to understand the concept of carrying your spare parts with you, or have them available back at home. This isn't my daily driver. I dont NEED to have something that same day in order to get the rig working again. The whole point is to make my spare parts list smaller. Can you understand that??? Probably not since you still think I am doing RCV bells lolol
 
LMAO I'm sorry... But did Bebop just metaphorically complain about content, and then post content as proof of him being a badass axle builder???
I have never called my video "content". I was merely responding to the shit stirrer who was asking me to show what I could do.
And yeah, I'm a pretty badass axle builder, so what ?

I still have no clue where you think I am doing RCV outers from. RCV "birfield" style joint outers have been off my list for almost a year now.

This is why :

Pending final deets from BKOR....

Front -
diamond 10.5" housing, 3.5" tubes (already have)
BKOR 14B builder knuckle kit
1550s
35spline outers
05+ SD UBs
Wilwood brake kit with 1.25" rotors
Tundra 10.5" dropout third, 5.29, e locker (already have)
Custom 300m shafts (ill probably call rcv on those for their warranty but that is the easy part of the puzzle)
Mile Marker selectable hubs (ordered)

I'm glad that at least BK can make some money off of you. The crew is a good one and they'll treat you right.
 
Derail, but need to clear some things up for historical accuracy:
  1. The 14b didn't fall out of favor until recently by white claw sipping west coasters with more money than brains to burn on car axles modified for offroad use (the Ford 9"). Up until recently, and it still is, the shit for for offroad beef
  2. The 14b is/was/and always will be the greatest offroad axle ever created. Christ himself formed it with his love and grace
  3. You don't need aftermarket support when perfection was achieved from the factory, aftermarket people look at it and they can't think of anyway to improve it
  4. If you are scared of grinding a lip, or 3" of the bottom of the pumpkin off, turning down the ring gear and welding a plate on there, then this hobby isn't for you
  5. See 2 and 3
  6. There is a shrine to the 14b at the begining of each hard trail in the south east, legend has it if you light a candle, take a pull of shine, and leave broken d60 parts it's good luck on your journey up the obstacle
Thread re railed, just had to clear that up about the greatest piece of offroad engineering ever created.
I would like to take a minute and say this was great lol
 
I have never called my video "content". I was merely responding to the shit stirrer who was asking me to show what I could do.
And yeah, I'm a pretty badass axle builder, so what ?



This is why :



I'm glad that at least BK can make some money off of you. The crew is a good one and they'll treat you right.
Lmao so you don't think that RCV is capable of making basic axle shaft inners without putting a big bell on it?? And you are a badass axle builder?????? That is hilarious.

I KNOW that i am not a badass axle builder and I have a lot to learn, but at least I know that RCV can make inner shafts lolol

That honestly might be the funniest thing you have said yet... I cant laugh any more and have work to do. Have a great day all!
 
Lmao so you don't think that RCV is capable of making basic axle shaft inners without putting a big bell on it?? And you are a badass axle builder?????? That is hilarious.

I KNOW that i am not a badass axle builder and I have a lot to learn, but at least I know that RCV can make inner shafts lolol

RCV will not make U-Joint style axle shafts.
 
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I'm all for cool axles.
I don't understand the idea of building an uber-custom axle and saying "i want to be able to use off-the-shelf-spare-parts." I don't think those two phrases got together at all.

seems like saying 3.5"-1/2" DOM is readily available, so that means my axle tubes are readily available.

But I do think they'll be interesting axles when... rather... IF ever complete.
 
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