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The 4xFordYota Franken-Fine Axles!

YotaAtieToo said:
I don't see the point of building a new frame if you have to plate the whole thing.
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Mang, why the plate hate?:laughing:
YotaAtieToo said:
I also don't see much advantage to going way up, when the axle will hit the oil pan before the frame.
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It probably wouldn't gain you much in straight compression like from a jump, but I would imagine the extra room would be somewhat handy under heavy articulation depending on your build. You can put the riser wherever you want. The best part of fabrication is no rules.

YotaAtieToo said:
Also, all the reinforcement doesn't need to be on the outside. A lot of the strength is in the top and bottom of the frame. Think of an I beam, or a big rig frame. The strength is in the top and bottom and the distance between them.
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Well for one thing, frame plating is more about spreading the load away from the joining welds than it is adding bending strength, at least that's always been my interpretation of it.

I'm a little confused about what you're trying to say with the I beam thing, but to be clear, adding plate steel to the top and bottom of the frame rail wouldn't do jack shit for rigidity. Moving from 2x3 box steel to 2x4 on the other hand... I think that's what you meant but I'm not sure with your wording.

Apologies for more thread derail...
 
IowaOffRoad said:
4x4toyotatyler why aren’t you just storing your stuff outside? Aren’t you in ‘historic drought’ California? Just throw a tarp over it in your driveway!:flipoff2:
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haha I already have a camping trailer, f150, subaru, and crawler that compete for driveway space. Extra doors, body panels, and radio antenna parts in the side yard, and the wife won't let me store anything in the back yard lol I really just need a bigger property with an actual shop that I can use to host disco parties (no... not land rovers)
 
willis_racing said:
Mang, why the plate hate?:laughing:


It probably wouldn't gain you much in straight compression like from a jump, but I would imagine the extra room would be somewhat handy under heavy articulation depending on your build. You can put the riser wherever you want. The best part of fabrication is no rules.
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Fair enough

willis_racing said:
Well for one thing, frame plating is more about spreading the load away from the joining welds than it is adding bending strength, at least that's always been my interpretation of it.

I'm a little confused about what you're trying to say with the I beam thing, but to be clear, adding plate steel to the top and bottom of the frame rail wouldn't do jack shit for rigidity.
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Except it does. Look up Carl jantz frame build. He's an engineer and can explain it better than me.

I beams are used to hold insane amounts of wieght. Their strength is in the width and thickness of top and bottom then the distance between them. Often the web thickness is comically thinner.

A frame on a crawler obviously sees many more different stresses than a load bearing I beam. You need enough thickness to weld brackets to, dent resistance, twisting resistance, ect.

In order for a 2x3 frame miter joint to fail. You're typically going to have to crack the bottom weld across the 2" width, which isn't easy, once that happens, it's very easy for the cracks to move up the vertical walls. Adding a plate will help, but it's still easy for the crack to move up. Adding a pice of say 2x1/4 flat bar to the bottom would over double the material that initially has to break.

Look at Toyota frames, it's a ~1/8" c slipped over a ~1/16" c, so the top and bottom are the thickest part at 3/16"

willis_racing said:
Moving from 2x3 box steel to 2x4 on the other hand... I think that's what you meant but I'm not sure with your wording.

Apologies for more thread derail...
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YotaAtieToo said:
Except it does. Look up Carl jantz frame build. He's an engineer and can explain it better than me.
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Thanks for the knowledge bomb on that one. The I-beam discussion at the old place was incredibly informative. This is why staying in school is for tards. They don't teach you cool useful applied statics like this, it's all just basics, and learning the real shit is up to you.

Or maybe I was the tard that didn't pay enough attention:flipoff2:

For the record, I'm an engineer too, I'm just young and don't have a ton of real-world experience. That's why I crawl around on offroading forums trying to soak up tech.
 
Now to get my thread back on track... got in the housings from diamond finally. Also got in rear drive flanges and front hubs.

Alssooooo just found out that Eaton started making an elocker for the 10.5 tundras. So going that route rather than the ARBs... so sick of my arbs currently. Both third members are currently being built.
 

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Project is on a slight hold... building a custom fj80 axle for a buddy in the next few days, then gotta finish the camping trailer before overland exo az, then gotta rebuild my rear suspension by June 9. Then I can continue this project. But I think I have everything now to cut the rear end and glue it all together.
 
4x4toyotatyler said:
Project is on a slight hold... building a custom fj80 axle for a buddy in the next few days, then gotta finish the camping trailer before overland exo az, then gotta rebuild my rear suspension by June 9. Then I can continue this project. But I think I have everything now to cut the rear end and glue it all together.
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Can't wait to see these finished! Sounds like you need a couple more projects.
 
Alright, looking to start these moving again... I have everything figured out except the steer arms. Does anyone know of a double sheer crossover steer arms setup that fits the spidertrax knuckles? Or am I going to be making my own?
 
4x4toyotatyler said:
Alright, looking to start these moving again... I have everything figured out except the steer arms. Does anyone know of a double sheer crossover steer arms setup that fits the spidertrax knuckles? Or am I going to be making my own?
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Call JHF? I bet Jesse either has a kit that'll work, or knows of the right parts combo to make it work.
 
Slander tagged me on this and I missed it until now. I built a new frame and used GM 1 ton y-link steering to keep things low and geometry happy on links. I should have put my frame rails higher because I still had to notch

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Alright, so I got off the Rubicon last weekend and found out my frame is cracked in 3 spots haha. So full steam ahead!! The goal is to have this project done by Nov1. I'll be having orie (83rickybobby on IG) build the frame and suspension and I'll be building the axles.

A couple more things I have decided on... changing the unit bearings to 05+ SD 8x6.5 unit bearings, and also found the crossover steer arms from spidertrax. Gonna call and talk with them today about fitment and selectable hub options. Will probably modify the steer arms to be double sheer.

Once I get the new unit bearings in, I will start assembling the axles. Lesgoooo!
 
Post pictures of the frame and the swap!! I'm bout ready to do the same here with the frame as mine keeps cracking and failing in the rear.
 
Rad. I can't wait to see it, Orie does some good work. I'm about ready to do the same thing to my 4runner, just want to get another trip or two in before I tear it down.
 
Bebop said:
How are you putting 05+ UBs on Spidertrax knuckles ?
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Not sure yet... gotta call them today and talk about it. I have the 99-04 6x5.5 unit bearings right now, which I know will work. But an axle builder who used to work on the gomez and Addington cars said to go with the 05+ and we were definitely talking about spidertrax knuckles... so gotta call them and figure out that puzzle since I assumed they built their knuckles around the 99-04 design.
 
Slander said:
Post pictures of the frame and the swap!! I'm bout ready to do the same here with the frame as mine keeps cracking and failing in the rear.
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Haha here's a couple of the cracked frame. I'll get some more as orie cuts it down and rebuilds it.
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4x4toyotatyler said:
Not sure yet... gotta call them today and talk about it. I have the 99-04 6x5.5 unit bearings right now, which I know will work. But an axle builder who used to work on the gomez and Addington cars said to go with the 05+ and we were definitely talking about spidertrax knuckles... so gotta call them and figure out that puzzle since I assumed they built their knuckles around the 99-04 design.
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Yeah, they don't fit.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
holy chit, you were one good winch from loosing the entire front clip..... :grinpimp:
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Lol yup. I crawled under and looked at things while I was airing up and then decided to go buy a lottery ticket. Driver spring hanger is cracked 3/4 sides, passenger spring hanger is 2/4 sides, and frame by the ac compressor is 3/4 sides.
 
Same thing happened on my buddy's 2nd gen 4runner. Whole front end nearly fell off.

On the DS, we plated the inside of the frame from the firewall side of the steering box, incorporating the steering box bolts, all the way up to the SAS crossmember. Smaller gusset on the outside.

PS frame rail had a similar crack, so we did a similar plating job on the other side as well. 4 years later, no additional issues.
 
FRORF's long-discontinued steering box brace (that went side to side) should have been mandatory on all (leaf-sprung) SAS's, IMHO.


My 88 cracked behind the body mount... somewhere are pics of the flat plate we added on the bottom of the frame that triangulated the rail to the crossmember.
 
Bebop said:
Yeah, they don't fit.
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Update time! I did a bunch of calling around Friday... you are correct spidertrax does not fit the 05+ SD unit bearings and they refuse to make selectable hubs.

I also found out that TGs 99-04 unit bearings are pretty much the oem Ford design that had a lot of issues with the spindles heating up and blowing the bearings prematurely. Spidertrax redesigns the spindle in them with a heat treated chromo spindle and stub nose fwiw.

So I called Reid and talked with them about their super kingpins and then Wilwood to find some brakes and rotors that would work with 05+ SD unit bearings in a 17" wheel, and they pretty much don't have any brake hats for that application (either that or the people I talked to should be fired or put back into training since one person didn't even know what a unit bearing was).

Then I stumbled on Crane Axles... (que holy music from the sky). Called and talked with them and that's the way I'm going now. Crane magnum knuckle kit, with their light weight front brake kit (for front and rear), and rear UB cups. The Crane outers will work with the electric parking brake calipers from Wilwood (Ill just need to make a bracket) and allow me to run 1550 u joints or rcv super bell if I want. Plus, they have some massive chromolly Cs with some pretty sweet keyed steer arms, so it should be pretty easy to make a double sheer setup.

I'll probably be going with Yukon UBs and hubs, but still waiting to hear back from Mile Marker on their hubs.

Full steam ahead! Edited the first 2 posts of this thread with the final plan and parts list, mainly to help me keep track of this shit show.
 
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