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Switch pros

Ghetto Fab. said:
Just to add, be careful if your looking at hooking up a toyota elocker. I've used switchpro on a few different builds and they are great. High quality and easy to use. The problem I found was that the switches are just simple on-off. You can reverse that to be off-on, or make them momentary, strobe, etc...., but they don't have a 3 position or reversing setup that I'm aware of. With a jeep or dana style elocker one only needs to apply or remove power to get the locker to lock or unlock. For a toyota elocker you reverse the polarity to get the locker to lock or unlock. You'll have to wire in a set of relays to switch the polarity depending on if the switch is on or off.

I'd almost like to see them drop the switch panel and just go straight to a setup you can run off a tablet. You could use the tablet for gauges, navs, radio, and your switch panel.
Click to expand...
My Elocker is wired through a home built harness, see below for the switch, I need to sit down an see what it is to see if the switch pro will operate it

irate4x4.com

Not a build thread (Cause a SAS isn't a build)

Interested to see how they handle the snow, that's the only terrain/road condition that I haven't driven on them.
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com

But yes, This would be one of the things I would be consolidating
 
Ghetto Fab. said:
I'd almost like to see them drop the switch panel and just go straight to a setup you can run off a tablet. You could use the tablet for gauges, navs, radio, and your switch panel.
Click to expand...
That probably wouldn't be to hard since they already have blue tooth and an app to control the programing.
 
Bebop said:
Go back wiring your rig with romex.

Once you understand what the switch-pro does, you'll understand it's a little more than just switches.

Also, the 8 switch panel is on the part counter, not $1000.
Click to expand...

not sure we are supposed to post prices but what the hell am I doing wrong? I have been searching the parts store every time this thread updates and I can't find anything? :confused:
 
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Ghetto Fab. said:
Just to add, be careful if your looking at hooking up a toyota elocker. I've used switchpro on a few different builds and they are great. High quality and easy to use. The problem I found was that the switches are just simple on-off. You can reverse that to be off-on, or make them momentary, strobe, etc...., but they don't have a 3 position or reversing setup that I'm aware of. With a jeep or dana style elocker one only needs to apply or remove power to get the locker to lock or unlock. For a toyota elocker you reverse the polarity to get the locker to lock or unlock. You'll have to wire in a set of relays to switch the polarity depending on if the switch is on or off.

I'd almost like to see them drop the switch panel and just go straight to a setup you can run off a tablet. You could use the tablet for gauges, navs, radio, and your switch panel.
Click to expand...
You can do a 3 position switch with the RCR12, but not the 9100.

You cannot reverse the polarity with it as is, you're right.

You can also run it from your Tablet or phone as is currently, both the 9100 and the RCR12.

Weasel said:
not sure we are supposed to post prices but what the hell am I doing wrong? I have been searching the parts store every time this thread updates and I can't find anything? /https://data.irate4x4.com/assets/smilies/confused.gif
Click to expand...

Austin chimed in, send him a PM.
I removed the price, please edit my quote not to post the price. Just in case.
AKnate Could you please do the same ? Thanks



Edit : That was post #1000, nice !
 
I’m done wiring the one I was doing for a friend.

64BF5147-EC07-4E8F-A8D3-5BE9E3F365A5.jpeg


37B20424-1DA9-4CB8-B815-3532BA09C0F3.jpeg
 
I've got as far as getting the box open, It will be awhile, finding a location under the hood, and then in the dash.

I'm defiantly not racing to throw it in.
 
Austin said:
- Glad you boys finally got them, again my apologies for the lead times

What is that skull and crossbones button? or crutches?
Click to expand...


That's another one. I'm still waiting for the 2 others I ordered.

Skull and bones is the master kill.
 
I know I've posted about these before on here...

The whole Switch Pros idea is cool for low current non essential accessories, but the whole unit is a heat trap. Hence the much lower overall current rating than the combined total rating of each circuit. It's just a bunch of MOSFETS on a potted board, when one fails the unit is toast. Then the membrane buttons really bug me because.... Well... I hate membrane buttons. :lmao:

Run one, and bring a spare toggle/fuse/relay/wire/connector kit to bypass the unit when something fails on it.

I'll stick to my switches and relays and fuses and wire that I can repair myself.
 
Yotota said:
I know I've posted about these before on here...

The whole Switch Pros idea is cool for low current non essential accessories, but the whole unit is a heat trap. Hence the much lower overall current rating than the combined total rating of each circuit. It's just a bunch of MOSFETS on a potted board, when one fails the unit is toast. Then the membrane buttons really bug me because.... Well... I hate membrane buttons. :lmao:

Run one, and bring a spare toggle/fuse/relay/wire/connector kit to bypass the unit when something fails on it.

I'll stick to my switches and relays and fuses and wire that I can repair myself.
Click to expand...

oldman.jpg


You run a carb and points too ?
 
Bebop said:
oldman.jpg


You run a carb and points too ?
Click to expand...

:lmao:

Can't argue with you there.

But comparing an aftermarket accessory switch system with obvious design flaws to an OEM EFI and ignition system is kind of an apples to apple fritter comparison. Both are electronics, but there's a staggering difference in engineering, and design, and manufacturing quality control, and number of units in the field, and proven durability, and......
 
Yotota said:
:lmao:

Can't argue with you there.

But comparing an aftermarket accessory switch system with obvious design flaws to an OEM EFI and ignition system is kind of an apples to apple fritter comparison. Both are electronics, but there's a staggering difference in engineering, and design, and manufacturing quality control, and number of units in the field, and proven durability, and......
Click to expand...

Says the guy who has never worked with a Switch-Pros and can obviously point out the flaws and issues of them.
 
Bebop said:
Says the guy who has never worked with a Switch-Pros and can obviously point out the flaws and issues of them.
Click to expand...

Sure, this guy has also worked with commercial and industrial electronics and tooling and manufacturing and knows enough have a technical opinion on the matter. I have yet to see any significant implementation of solid state switching in any comparable industry.

But my opinion is my own, and it could be wrong. If I'm proven wrong I'll gladly eat my words and change my ways.

Except about membrane buttons. I fawking hate membrane buttons. :flipoff2:
 
Yotota said:
Except about membrane buttons. I fawking hate membrane buttons. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
i like the membrane buttons.

iirc switch pros is a spin off of a company or the owner was involved in emergency response vehicle electronics.

everyone i know who has adopted the technology loves it and havent seen internet outrage from failures.
 
Yotota said:
I have yet to see any significant implementation of solid state switching in any comparable industry.
Click to expand...

like... what ?

Every single high end motorsport vehicle built in the past decade is using solid state switching. Trophy trucks, rallye cars, Ultra4 cars, F1, LMP, you name it...

What comparable industry are you talking about ?

mobil1syn said:
i like the membrane buttons.

iirc switch pros is a spin off of a company or the owner was involved in emergency response vehicle electronics.

everyone i know who has adopted the technology loves it and havent seen internet outrage from failures.
Click to expand...

I'll be the first to tell you that the switch-pros software sucks. But the product in itself is excellent.
 
Bebop said:
like... what ?

Every single high end motorsport vehicle built in the past decade is using solid state switching. Trophy trucks, rallye cars, Ultra4 cars, F1, LMP, you name it...

What comparable industry are you talking about ?



I'll be the first to tell you that the switch-pros software sucks. But the product in itself is excellent.
Click to expand...

Well I'll be damned, I just did a bit of trophy truck shopping which I've never done before, and it looks like the big boys (Jimco, Brenthel, Geiser, etc) have gone to these switch panels. I should get with the times apparently.
 
Yotota said:
Well I'll be damned, I just did a bit of trophy truck shopping which I've never done before, and it looks like the big boys (Jimco, Brenthel, Geiser, etc) have gone to these switch panels. I should get with the times apparently.
Click to expand...

They are much more versatile, smaller, lighter, easier to wire, easier to troubleshoot and so much more... Once you start using them, there's no going back.
 
Bebop said:
They are much more versatile, smaller, lighter, easier to wire, easier to troubleshoot and so much more... Once you start using them, there's no going back.
Click to expand...

From a troubleshooting perspective, the entire unit either works or doesn't work... Correct? If you lose one circuit in the switch box or one button on the control board would you need to replace that whole component?

I absolutely see the ease of installation but had written them off as an expensive gimmick. The MSRP on them is definitely off-putting.
 
Bebop said:
They are much more versatile, smaller, lighter, easier to wire, easier to troubleshoot and so much more... Once you start using them, there's no going back.
Click to expand...
It will be a compact footprint in the cab, I promise wiring an old school switch panel would be easier for me. And I'm guessing it has a ton more flexibility than I'm ready for, But I made it fit the budget, and am going to feel my way through it.

I like the idea of pulling a single ribbon style cable into the cab and being able to expand on that as I add stuff. It will be a learning process.
 
Yotota said:
From a troubleshooting perspective, the entire unit either works or doesn't work... Correct? If you lose one circuit in the switch box or one button on the control board would you need to replace that whole component?

I absolutely see the ease of installation but had written them off as an expensive gimmick. The MSRP on them is definitely off-putting.
Click to expand...

That's not what I meant on troubleshooting.

Depending on what unit you get, it'll tell you whether you have a short-circuit, a component is about to fail (drawing more amps that usual), will tell you if a component is not performing as expected (drawing less amps than normal), it can switch from one fuel pump to the spare one on it's own if it detects low fuel pressure etc etc.

Depending on the PDM you get, sky is the limit.

As far as MSRP, Start pricing out MilSpec toggles, breakers, relays, the extra wiring, time spent etc they are really not that bad.

Stingray said:
It will be a compact footprint in the cab, I promise wiring an old school switch panel would be easier for me. And I'm guessing it has a ton more flexibility than I'm ready for, But I made it fit the budget, and am going to feel my way through it.

I like the idea of pulling a single ribbon style cable into the cab and being able to expand on that as I add stuff. It will be a learning process.
Click to expand...

I don't see how wiring an old school switch panel would be easier since there would be 3 times more wires, more components and less flexibility.
And I've done it both ways.

C699A7AC-0116-4DA0-B271-37588094C1DA.jpeg


This is the complete chassis harness for a fairly complex car. 40amp fuel pump, twin fans, electric waterpump, heat exchanger fans, rock lights, front and rear lights, interior lights, rear steer, ARB lockers, ARB compressor etc.

There's 3 times less wires that if I had to do it old school. Plus given the size of the fucking switch panel to command this thing I would have needed a whole dash to hide the 15+circuits in there.
 
Bebop said:
I don't see how wiring an old school switch panel would be easier since there would be 3 times more wires, more components and less flexibility.
And I've done it both ways.
Click to expand...
Mainly lack of familiarity is all.

I've done the old way, so I know what it looks like, This will be new.
I'm not knocking it, I'm onboard with this working out better in the long run, but I opened a box of foreign parts.
About all I recognize is the colored wires:lmao:

I'll get there.
 
Stingray said:
About all I recognize is the colored wires:lmao:
Click to expand...

haha yeahhhh

Any questions, just ask.

The main thing that's not in the manual and can bite you in the ass, is that if you require some constant ON circuits that aren't toggled by a switch, you have to wire them to outputs 13 to 16. You cannot program 1 to 12 to be constant ON without assigning them to a switch first. I've asked them many times to fix their software but it's low prio for them.
 
Bebop said:
That's not what I meant on troubleshooting.

Depending on what unit you get, it'll tell you whether you have a short-circuit, a component is about to fail (drawing more amps that usual), will tell you if a component is not performing as expected (drawing less amps than normal), it can switch from one fuel pump to the spare one on it's own if it detects low fuel pressure etc etc.

Depending on the PDM you get, sky is the limit.

As far as MSRP, Start pricing out MilSpec toggles, breakers, relays, the extra wiring, time spent etc they are really not that bad.



I don't see how wiring an old school switch panel would be easier since there would be 3 times more wires, more components and less flexibility.
And I've done it both ways.

C699A7AC-0116-4DA0-B271-37588094C1DA.jpeg


This is the complete chassis harness for a fairly complex car. 40amp fuel pump, twin fans, electric waterpump, heat exchanger fans, rock lights, front and rear lights, interior lights, rear steer, ARB lockers, ARB compressor etc.

There's 3 times less wires that if I had to do it old school. Plus given the size of the fucking switch panel to command this thing I would have needed a whole dash to hide the 15+circuits in there.
Click to expand...
What wire loom is that? And where from?
 
Techflex Flexo Heavy Wall.

Wirecare.
 
Question:

Does this have overload protection built in or should I be fusing all of my outputs?
 
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