What's new
By:
Filters

Switch pros

mobil1syn said:
its built in, adjustable in the app.
Click to expand...
Thanks,
I am a S L O W Mf'er about getting this installed. Working now on a cardboard template to mount it under the hood with some sort of distribution block and Fuse/Breaker set up.

Not many pre-fabbed options for a 3rd gen 4runner
 
Stingray said:
Thanks,
I am a S L O W Mf'er about getting this installed. Working now on a cardboard template to mount it under the hood with some sort of distribution block and Fuse/Breaker set up.

Not many pre-fabbed options for a 3rd gen 4runner
Click to expand...
It comes with a Bracket. Weld that fucker somewhere out of the way. The positive cable the switch pros comes with has a fuse built into it. Plug and party man.
 
samy crawler said:
It comes with a Bracket. Weld that fucker somewhere out of the way.
Click to expand...
Ya, It's not much of a bracket, I'd be better tech screwing the brains to the firewall.

I have a rough plan to ID what everything feeds. The color codes won't be any help down the road.
 
Stingray said:
Question:

Does this have overload protection built in or should I be fusing all of my outputs?
Click to expand...
Read the manual.

Page 15

Should I use a Fuse Block for my output wires?
No – connecting our output wires to a fuse block subjects the wires to water and corrosion, and essentially takes our Solid
State, watertight system, and makes it subject to potential water damage and unreliable connections. It also adds unnecessary
expense. We suggest using the heat-shrinkable butt splices (included in the installation hardware kit) OR soldering (and
covering with heat shrink tubing) the power leads together.
Click to expand...
 
Stingray said:
Ya, It's not much of a bracket, I'd be better tech screwing the brains to the firewall.

I have a rough plan to ID what everything feeds. The color codes won't be any help down the road.
Click to expand...

ugh, buy the appropriate colored wires 🤷🏽‍♂️
 
mobil1syn said:
im confused then, what needs to be labeled if you have unique colors for the circuits?
Click to expand...
Ya I wasn't real clear, I'll color code everything, In a perfect world I should never have to chase down a problem, But in the event I do, it would be nice to look under the hood and have my rock lights clearly labeled so I can check volts right at the source and troubleshoot from there. I found a heat shrink labeler to do that.

I guess If I started at the non functioning item I would know what the color code is at the source.

I'm building a very simple platform to mount it on with an appropriately sized manual reset breaker. From there everything will be spliced solid and protected with heat shrink.

I've seen a bunch of buss style screw connections but they seem bulky, overly complicated, and looks like a failure point.
 
I guess I'm not sure about non fuse power in. Unless they have upgraded something I'm thinking that is how mine got fried at the shop. From what I've got since looking into it more is that's about all that would make the unit go dead.
 
It should come from factory with a fuse block and a 125 or a 150amp fuse for the input, depending on whether you have a 9100 or a RCR.
 
Weasel said:
I guess I'm not sure about non fuse power in. Unless they have upgraded something I'm thinking that is how mine got fried at the shop. From what I've got since looking into it more is that's about all that would make the unit go dead.
Click to expand...
I'll put a breaker ahead of the unit, so it's fused prior.
right now it won't have a ton of things attached.

My winch and compressor are both controlled by starter solenoids now, so I'll just be energizing those.

And a couple sets of lights. I haven't looked into controlling my Elocker yet.
 
Stingray said:
Ya I wasn't real clear, I'll color code everything, In a perfect world I should never have to chase down a problem, But in the event I do, it would be nice to look under the hood and have my rock lights clearly labeled so I can check volts right at the source and troubleshoot from there. I found a heat shrink labeler to do that.

I guess If I started at the non functioning item I would know what the color code is at the source.

I'm building a very simple platform to mount it on with an appropriately sized manual reset breaker. From there everything will be spliced solid and protected with heat shrink.

I've seen a bunch of buss style screw connections but they seem bulky, overly complicated, and looks like a failure point.
Click to expand...

how deep are you planning on going down the rabbit hole?

i may have posted it but you can repin the main connector so theyre is no splices in the cables and just use connectors OR go all in in a cannon plug.

why are you using a breaker? it comes with a fuse on the main power lead?
1660762225776.png
 
I've had good luck with breakers on other things, Since I'll need to make a battery cable anyways, I'll put it right off the battery, and make a cable over to the module.

I've seen the re pinning option also, Your pushing my abilities, I'll stick with uninsulated butt splices and double heat shrinking.
 
Stingray said:
I've had good luck with breakers on other things, Since I'll need to make a battery cable anyways, I'll put it right off the battery, and make a cable over to the module.

I've seen the re pinning option also, Your pushing my abilities, I'll stick with uninsulated butt splices and double heat shrinking.
Click to expand...

Re pinning is really nothing once you've done a few
 
Also at this point I have no 35 amp loads I plan on using, do I need to plug that in and just seal those off? or can I buy and build a blank to seal those?
No I'm not waiting till Tuesday to ask:homer:
 
Since we started this topic, I've got 3 more rigs completely running through a switch pros (that includes ignition coils and injectors).

Last one started for the first time this Friday and went for testing Sunday, no issues.

I wish more people were willing to go to higher end / nicer setups (think ECUmaster PMU), but for the cost of the switch-pros, nothing can touch its functionality and ruggedness.
 
Stingray said:
Also at this point I have no 35 amp loads I plan on using, do I need to plug that in and just seal those off? or can I buy and build a blank to seal those?
No I'm not waiting till Tuesday to ask:homer:
Click to expand...

id build a blank, check to see is there are numbers on the plug and start googling or if you got a 3d printer.

i found the main plug on a 9100 on waytek.com

Bebop said:
but for the cost of the switch-pros, nothing can touch its functionality and ruggedness.
Click to expand...

100% truth
 
very interesting for sure.. my level of ignorance on this topic is bad,

i thought the thread title Switch Pro, i thought you were talking about help doing 12 volt wiring, i had no idea this magic was out here. wow what a way to clean up under the dash... omg thanks, i can say i learned something today for sure. :beer:
 
Anyone running a 2 speed taurus fan off of a switch pros? Assuming it starts in low speed and transfers to high, it should be good?
 
Fuck no.

The Taurus fan will draw 100+ amp inrush. You'll fry the poor module.

Get a volvo relay that's meant for the application

Volvo_relay.jpg


Super easy to wire

volvo_relay_diagram.PNG
 
It's old tech, but it's proven reliable and this fan is a great performer.

f you have a RCR12 you can wire output 17 as a ground trigger for the high side and then run the low side to ign ground in order to run it full time. Not my preferred method, but that's an idea.
 
You won't be able to consolidate a Taurus fan on most PDMs. Draws way too many amps.

You'd need a serious unit, and even then it's not worth it.

Taurus fan is a thing of the past. Get brushless fans and then do fancy shit with them.

Or keep the ol' reliable but gotta keep the old school wiring.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh