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Switch pros

Weasel said:
I have a switch pro that got fried. Reached out a couple time and got no response. I don't know how it happened but some time between dropping off the truck to the body shop and getting it back the control panel quit working and defaulted to all circuits on.

It was nice until that point. Can't figure what in the word would have caused that kind of failure, it was an older model but again haven't had any luck getting info from the company. Should check the parts counter though...

Blink marnie has some nice panels but how to hook them up I haven't figured out as they are CANBus based.
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Can you access the switch-pros with your BT ?
If yes, and everything works that way you just need a new panel which isn't that expensive.
If nothing works, the unit is toast (I've never seen that. For that to happen you'd have to have shorted it with no ground attached to the battery or something like that).
They've always been super reactive with me on the phone.
 
no BT on the switch panel. If you plug it in all of the contacts go open, power at all points. I have no idea what happened, it could have been damaged but I can't see how in any normal process. Seems there should have been safe guards and maybe it was something on the older unit that the newer one has. I haven't called, just email.
 
So you have power on PIN 3, 4, 11 and 12 ?

Those are triggers / grounds usually.
 
Weasel said:
no BT on the switch panel. If you plug it in all of the contacts go open, power at all points. I have no idea what happened, it could have been damaged but I can't see how in any normal process. Seems there should have been safe guards and maybe it was something on the older unit that the newer one has. I haven't called, just email.
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did you switch ignition and trigger wires? or you may have done something where you have all the outputs triggering on ignition.
 
I use Switch Pros in my Jeep Honcho Prerunner along with traditional switches and relays. The Switch Pro is used for all non-essentials, if it were to fail the truck would still run..no fans or fuel pumps. They eliminate a bunch of wiring and you can put 8 or 12 switches in a small space.

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Austin said:
I called and talked to their sales team a few times. Since they were from the 50s I pulled every wire from my rig and am leaning toward running the whole rig from 2 of their panels. They are pretty sweet and well though out panels. However this is the #1 thing holding me back.

#2 is the price. I'm fine paying for quality, but will all the other stuff I need to get done on it I keep thinking about additional stuff I could get for that kind of $$


Didn't he get his start on PBB?
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Yes he did. Seabass44. Dude was kind of a dick, but apparently builds nice panels
 
JeffFurrier said:
I use Switch Pros in my Jeep Honcho Prerunner along with traditional switches and relays. The Switch Pro is used for all non-essentials, if it were to fail the truck would still run..no fans or fuel pumps. They eliminate a bunch of wiring and you can put 8 or 12 switches in a small space.

140934.jpg
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This is where I'm at, the truck will stay in tact as a street truck, all of the ancillary loads will run through the switch pro. For me its a consolidation of accessories to one small footprint. and if I add things I can't think of yet think of I won't have to keep shoving wire into the cab.
 
Austin said:
I called and talked to their sales team a few times. Since they were from the 50s I pulled every wire from my rig and am leaning toward running the whole rig from 2 of their panels. They are pretty sweet and well though out panels. However this is the #1 thing holding me back.

#2 is the price. I'm fine paying for quality, but will all the other stuff I need to get done on it I keep thinking about additional stuff I could get for that kind of $$


Didn't he get his start on PBB?
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So do we have a link through the Parts Counter?
Cause I'm looking at a two for one,
I want the credits towards the raffle also:flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Bebop said:
I install quite a few of them.

There is nothing on the market that is remotely close in terms of features / $ ratio.

I think it's an excellent choice.

If you have any specific questions I'll try to answer them.

PS : Only issue I may see in your list is the compressor. No idea what the amperage is, just remember the max on one of the high amp lines (for the RCR12) is 35 amp. You could combine 2 together though.

PS2: Nothing against 12voltguy, but the old array of switches with a shit ton of wires in the back, leading to a relay / fuse panel somewhere else is something of the past.
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If I pull the trigger and have questions You'll be on speed dial.Also is the jump to the 12 worth it? how flexible is the 8?
 
Stingray said:
If I pull the trigger and have questions You'll be on speed dial.Also is the jump to the 12 worth it? how flexible is the 8?
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Depends what you want to do.
I think it is if you want to do some more advanced wiring.

If it's just to power to basic accessories (some light bars / pods etc) and that's about it, no real need for the RCR, unless you need more than 8 channels.
 
Bebop said:
So you have power on PIN 3, 4, 11 and 12 ?

Those are triggers / grounds usually.
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No on the outputs, they are no longer switched, they have power output as soon as you connect the power distribution panel.

mobil1syn said:
did you switch ignition and trigger wires? or you may have done something where you have all the outputs triggering on ignition.
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I have not changed any wire locations. I was working well for 2-3 years, something happened at the body shop. I couldn't see any wires switched. I'll have to dig it out and double check. It had some lights prewired that function correctly. Now when you hooked up power it's light on 100% of the time, no switching. The switch panel is non responsive to anything.

Stingray said:

Are you looking for the part #?​

​

SP9100- for the 8 switch panel​

RCR-FORCE® 12 - is the 12 switch panel​

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Yeah I wasn't able to pull up the 8 panel on the parts counter.
 
Stingray said:
So do we have a link through the Parts Counter?
Cause I'm looking at a two for one,
I want the credits towards the raffle also:flipoff2::flipoff2:
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Stingray said:
Me either, But if its there, I'll buy it through the parts counter. but I couldn't pull it up
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I have access to them, they just come up odd so they don’t list. I’ll PM pricing when I’m on a computer tomorrow
 
Austin
Send me pricing for one of each too please

Weasel
That's interesting. Sounds like the body shop fucked something up. Maybe they welded without disconnecting it and backfed into it ?
 
Huh? I thought i said that? My bad if it was left out. Thought it was stated in my original post.

I can't say for sure it was the shop but that's when it quit working.

Maybe could have been a welding type issue but seems like a 'smart unit' should have protection in the form of a replacable part for such situations?
 
FWIW my 12Vguy panel had wires melting between the switches and the circiut breakers. Thought my brand new buggy was gonna burn to the ground for a minute.
 
94toytruck said:
FWIW my 12Vguy panel had wires melting between the switches and the circiut breakers. Thought my brand new buggy was gonna burn to the ground for a minute.
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Just like that ?

I'm a big fan of switch-pros and don't really like old school panels, but 12Vguy stuff is good quality and the ones I dealt with had no issues at all.

I find it weird wires just randomly started to melt.
 
Bebop said:
Just like that ?

I'm a big fan of switch-pros and don't really like old school panels, but 12Vguy stuff is good quality and the ones I dealt with had no issues at all.

I find it weird wires just randomly started to melt.
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Well when the wiring burns up before the circiut breakers in the panel pop these things happen. IIRC it was 18g wire going from the switches to the CBs and I made new heavier gauge wires for all of them.
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Austin said:
Thanks for the order!

They must be pretty bad ass, they are selling like hotcakes. Starting to see them in race rigs too
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Wasn't calling you out on Shipping, I got the lead times on stuff
Excited to get it in my hands though.
:beer:


Encouraging to hear race some teams are moving to it.
 
The day I spend $1000 on 8 switches for an off road rig is the the day you can say I identify at a he/she/it/Peterbilt/helicopter/toaster oven. There's not enough glue in this town to sniff that would make me think that's a great idea.
 
AKnate said:
The day I spend $1000 on 8 switches for an off road rig is the the day you can say I identify at a he/she/it/Peterbilt/helicopter/toaster oven. There's not enough glue in this town to sniff that would make me think that's a great idea.
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Go back wiring your rig with romex.

Once you understand what the switch-pro does, you'll understand it's a little more than just switches.

Also, the 8 switch panel is way cheaper on the part counter, not $1000.
 
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Bebop said:
Go back wiring your rig with romex.

Once you understand what the switch-pro does, you'll understand it's a little more than just switches.

Also, the 8 switch panel is $530 on the part counter, not $1000.
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It's $980 on their website.

Romex?

I work on heavy equipment mostly. Most of that until you get into new stuff uses fairly standard switches that are like $20 a pop.
 
AKnate said:
It's $980 on their website.
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This, right here, shows that you didn't do any kind of research on the system before coming here to shit all over it.

There is nothing wrong with good, quality switches. But because you don't understand a more modern system, don't tell the ones who do how stupid they are.
 
AKnate said:
The day I spend $1000 on 8 switches for an off road rig is the the day you can say I identify at a he/she/it/Peterbilt/helicopter/toaster oven. There's not enough glue in this town to sniff that would make me think that's a great idea.
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ive mentioned it before, to wire a traditional setup to the quality and functionality of a switch pro is more than the cost of a switch pro, i did the math a while back.

people who understand, get it and there are some people who dont and never will.
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Just to add, be careful if your looking at hooking up a toyota elocker. I've used switchpro on a few different builds and they are great. High quality and easy to use. The problem I found was that the switches are just simple on-off. You can reverse that to be off-on, or make them momentary, strobe, etc...., but they don't have a 3 position or reversing setup that I'm aware of. With a jeep or dana style elocker one only needs to apply or remove power to get the locker to lock or unlock. For a toyota elocker you reverse the polarity to get the locker to lock or unlock. You'll have to wire in a set of relays to switch the polarity depending on if the switch is on or off.

I'd almost like to see them drop the switch panel and just go straight to a setup you can run off a tablet. You could use the tablet for gauges, navs, radio, and your switch panel.
 
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