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Super Duty dick envy

so doing some light reading today and found out about a 32 spline direct drive stub shaft. anyone use this? here is a link. and photo.

dffabrication.com

Ford SuperDuty Dana 60 Direct drive stub shafts 1550 ujoints

Ford SuperDuty Dana 60 Direct drive stub shafts 1550 ujoints These massive stub shafts key into the entire 32spline unit bearing allowing you to ditch the drive flanges that are an added expense and failure point. These stubs are turned, splined, heat treated and final machined. Combine them...
dffabrication.com dffabrication.com


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I like the idea, but you can get 40 spline and slugs cheaper, so it doesn't make much sense to me unless you are worried 40 spline stubs are going to be your weak link.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
I like the idea, but you can get 40 spline and slugs cheaper, so it doesn't make much sense to me unless you are worried 40 spline stubs are going to be your weak link.
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How much cheaper? Those direct drive stubs are more than likely indestructible in our application. What's pease of mind worth?
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
How much cheaper? Those direct drive stubs are more than likely indestructible in our application. What's pease of mind worth?
Click to expand...
Just the two stubs in the screen shot cost as much as I paid for 40 spline inners, outers, drive flanges, seals, and dust caps :homer: Oh, they also have a lifetime warranty which none of the direct drive shafts do which sucks if you kill a joint...

Good 40 spline shafts are already making the ring and pinion the likely fuse since most people just install 9.75" gears in their Superduty 60s.

EDIT: I removed the Superjoints I originally listed since I bought those separately.
 
So you bought forged 40spline Yukon shafts is what you're telling us? Hard to compare that to 300m billet Legacy shafts.
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
How much cheaper? Those direct drive stubs are more than likely indestructible in our application. What's pease of mind worth?
Click to expand...
question is, where does those move the fuse to? Ring and pinion? joint? driveshaft? t case output?
 
My thought with those is the SD stub is so short, it's not going to have twist like an inner axle and likey the inner will be much stronger than a stub if they're both the same diameter. Just a theory but Those direct drive stubs eliminate that.

The other benift would be larger inners like 47 spline

All the big bell rcv's use that direct drive AFAIK
 
94toytruck said:
So you bought forged 40spline Yukon shafts is what you're telling us? Hard to compare that to 300m billet Legacy shafts.
Click to expand...

Yes I did. The IMS shafts aren't 300M though and I don't think the Branik ones are either. The Branik direct drive stubs are $1,700 for the pair which is a few hundred more than the IMS ones that were posted. I really like the idea of the direct drive outers and eliminating the slug, but it just doesn't make sense to me from a value standpoint. Yes, they're stronger, but if you're running 40 spline inners, is it really worth paying the premium? At that point, I think you're probably just as liable to tear the ear out of the yoke and trash the shaft anyway assuming your ring and pinion doesn't grenade first.

Regardless, there are plenty of people successfully wheeling some of the rowdiest shit on 35 spline and 1480s still, so I am not too worried about my peasant 40 spline Yukons and 1550 joints.

YotaAtieToo said:
My thought with those is the SD stub is so short, it's not going to have twist like an inner axle and likey the inner will be much stronger than a stub if they're both the same diameter. Just a theory but Those direct drive stubs eliminate that.

The other benift would be larger inners like 47 spline

All the big bell rcv's use that direct drive AFAIK
Click to expand...
Yes, big bells are direct drive. For shock loading, they'll do better, but they'll also put more stress on the inners. For technical crawling situations, I don't see a 40 spline inner, direct drive outer holding up appreciably better than than a 40 spline inner and outer setup. Now if you go 47 spline inners, then yes, absolutley go with direct drive outers. I've seen 40 spline hold up to pretty stupid shit, so I think I'll be alright.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Yes I did. The IMS shafts aren't 300M though and I don't think the Branik ones are either. The Branik direct drive stubs are $1,700 for the pair which is a few hundred more than the IMS ones that were posted. I really like the idea of the direct drive outers and eliminating the slug, but it just doesn't make sense to me from a value standpoint. Yes, they're stronger, but if you're running 40 spline inners, is it really worth paying the premium? At that point, I think you're probably just as liable to tear the ear out of the yoke and trash the shaft anyway assuming your ring and pinion doesn't grenade first.

Regardless, there are plenty of people successfully wheeling some of the rowdiest shit on 35 spline and 1480s still, so I am not too worried about my peasant 40 spline Yukons and 1550 joints.


Yes, big bells are direct drive. For shock loading, they'll do better, but they'll also put more stress on the inners. For technical crawling situations, I don't see a 40 spline inner, direct drive outer holding up appreciably better than than a 40 spline inner and outer setup. Now if you go 47 spline inners, then yes, absolutley go with direct drive outers. I've seen 40 spline hold up to pretty stupid shit, so I think I'll be alright.
Click to expand...

All fair points.

I never had seen a price on the branik ones, but they obviously mostly aim. At
 
'84 Bronco II said:
Yes I did. The IMS shafts aren't 300M though and I don't think the Branik ones are either. The Branik direct drive stubs are $1,700 for the pair which is a few hundred more than the IMS ones that were posted. I really like the idea of the direct drive outers and eliminating the slug, but it just doesn't make sense to me from a value standpoint. Yes, they're stronger, but if you're running 40 spline inners, is it really worth paying the premium? At that point, I think you're probably just as liable to tear the ear out of the yoke and trash the shaft anyway assuming your ring and pinion doesn't grenade first.

Regardless, there are plenty of people successfully wheeling some of the rowdiest shit on 35 spline and 1480s still, so I am not too worried about my peasant 40 spline Yukons and 1550 joints.


Yes, big bells are direct drive. For shock loading, they'll do better, but they'll also put more stress on the inners. For technical crawling situations, I don't see a 40 spline inner, direct drive outer holding up appreciably better than than a 40 spline inner and outer setup. Now if you go 47 spline inners, then yes, absolutley go with direct drive outers. I've seen 40 spline hold up to pretty stupid shit, so I think I'll be alright.
Click to expand...

All fair points

Did you see the price on the ones chappy posted though?
 
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