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Super Duty dick envy

The plan will be always, I'll even daily drive it. I draw the line before tow rig and trailer.

Ok. That would lead me to believe that you at least "think" before engaging full retard send it when off road.

Most of what you see in the carnage share thread is from actual racers who don't get to think before sending it, or normal folks who forgot to think.

The absolute best thing you can do is to is to be honest with yourself about the use and go from there.

BTW, kingpins are strong as fuck. The big Reid super king pin stuff uses the same king pins you already have.

From the Reid super king pin page,,,,,"Utilizes the stout Dana 60/70 upper and lower kingpin assemblies for the utmost in strength".

So they are saying that the king pins you already have are capable of handling the power AND the need for bigger shafts and u-joints that can't even fit in your axle. Just food for thought.

Just do what makes you happy. If you want to build for your use, that's great. If you just want the best of the best, ain't nothing wrong with that either, fuck it, go for it. Just post lots of pictures cause I like seeing all the cool shit.:flipoff2:
 
Ok. That would lead me to believe that you at least "think" before engaging full retard send it when off road.

Most of what you see in the carnage share thread is from actual racers who don't get to think before sending it, or normal folks who forgot to think.

The absolute best thing you can do is to is to be honest with yourself about the use and go from there.

BTW, kingpins are strong as fuck. The big Reid super king pin stuff uses the same king pins you already have.

From the Reid super king pin page,,,,,"Utilizes the stout Dana 60/70 upper and lower kingpin assemblies for the utmost in strength".

So they are saying that the king pins you already have are capable of handling the power AND the need for bigger shafts and u-joints that can't even fit in your axle. Just food for thought.

Just do what makes you happy. If you want to build for your use, that's great. If you just want the best of the best, ain't nothing wrong with that either, fuck it, go for it. Just post lots of pictures cause I like seeing all the cool shit.:flipoff2:
That's a pretty classy, well thought out response. I am drawing the line at R/P, as much as the Jantz stuff is really cool. Being that the truck will need to get me home, even when I get stupid, it needs to be overkill (the best kind of kill). You guys know, when you start wheeling, you test your vehicles limits. And when you find it, you just hit that fucker harder. The last thing I want is my woman and I stranded in a creek bed, 50 miles from pavement.
 
Funny how all the custom after market is centered around 3.5 or 4" tubes when oem is neither. There is no profit in compatibility I guess. If i could get a center section with tubes and weld my junk yard outers on, that would be a win. Anyways, shipping and duty makes it worth while to do my own fab.
3.75 tube is twice the price of 3.5 or 4in. Also most of the outer Cs are either 3.5 or 4in. I was retube the stock SD60s I was shark finning for knuckles. But they have 4 different tube press dimensions I have ran across. Cheaper and less labor to start with a new center. That a is better in setup in my eyes.
Tube prices last time I bought full sticks of each.
3.5x.500wall is $32 a foot
4x.5wall is $40 a foot
3.75x.375 is $82 a foot and .500wall is $90 a foot.
I know I'm replying late to the party but that's why I chose new centers vs oem SD60 center.
 
3.75 tube is twice the price of 3.5 or 4in. Also most of the outer Cs are either 3.5 or 4in. I was retube the stock SD60s I was shark finning for knuckles. But they have 4 different tube press dimensions I have ran across. Cheaper and less labor to start with a new center. That a is better in setup in my eyes.
Tube prices last time I bought full sticks of each.
3.5x.500wall is $32 a foot
4x.5wall is $40 a foot
3.75x.375 is $82 a foot and .500wall is $90 a foot.
I know I'm replying late to the party but that's why I chose new centers vs oem SD60 center.
My thought is that if one really wants to run a factory tube size, then buy an oversize knuckle and have someone custom machine a sleeve to fit in between and burn it all in or buy the smaller size knuckle and bore it out....but yeah, the factory sized stuff is a bitch to work with....just like KP60 3.125" tubes. Talk about an odd ball size.
 
That's a pretty classy, well thought out response. I am drawing the line at R/P, as much as the Jantz stuff is really cool. Being that the truck will need to get me home, even when I get stupid, it needs to be overkill (the best kind of kill). You guys know, when you start wheeling, you test your vehicles limits. And when you find it, you just hit that fucker harder. The last thing I want is my woman and I stranded in a creek bed, 50 miles from pavement.

Then overkill it is................now get to work............take a lot of pictures too.:flipoff2:
 
3.75 tube is twice the price of 3.5 or 4in. Also most of the outer Cs are either 3.5 or 4in. I was retube the stock SD60s I was shark finning for knuckles. But they have 4 different tube press dimensions I have ran across. Cheaper and less labor to start with a new center. That a is better in setup in my eyes.
Tube prices last time I bought full sticks of each.
3.5x.500wall is $32 a foot
4x.5wall is $40 a foot
3.75x.375 is $82 a foot and .500wall is $90 a foot.
I know I'm replying late to the party but that's why I chose new centers vs oem SD60 center.
What center sections are you using?
 
It's a new HP60 casting from ecgs.It features a high clearance center with a rotated cover at 15⁰. Fit a 10in gear with east and can fit a Jana 76HP kit as well with lots of grinding.. available in 3.5 and 4in tubes. Oil passages have been moved ti the side for better oiling. I believe it's based off a spicer ulimate 60. They have thier own castings for 60s,44s and 14 bolts already with more in the works. Along with a 1550 kingpin knuckles setup shortly. The Inner Cs are already available and are a little meater then a reid.

Snapchat-1051963392.jpg
 
Is the ECGS kingpin 1550 (assuming unit bearing) setup on their site?
 
Yeah IMO, ECGS is getting ready to come into its own with these new KP Cs and knuckles with the U4 and rockbouncer crowd.
 
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Is the ECGS kingpin 1550 (assuming unit bearing) setup on their site?
Nope. You have to call/email to discuss it. Their site could use some work.
 
not sure if it mention here but can you use 450 knuckles on 250 housing and get more steering and 1550 or is that way over kill?
 
So I basically have the same setup minus Turbo's


5.3L/gm 5.6:1 NV4500. Ecobox, 205. NITTO 40'S, 1350 driveshafts.

I run 5.38s... Haven't broke anything

'81 GM KP 60, stock 35 heavy shafts (not those toothpick ones) Yukon 35 spline outers, spicer 1480s tacked in.

14 bolt rear, stock shafts.

Wheeled it all summer, drove to TN in the fall from Delhi, Ontario, Canaduh.


Haven't even got a loose 1480 Joint.

The Gear splits in an NV4500 friggen suck shit.

I can get up to and maintain 75 mph, just takes a while on the big hills in KY and north TN.

Youre going to be pushing lots more power into that than my stock 5.3 but 3.73s would be boring as fuck.

I'd want bare min 4.56s.
 
Balljoint eliminators are literally king pins. Do BJE’s and get everything good about the SD stuff with better KP’s without the poor architecture of the old King Pin outer knuckles. I’ll be doing Busted Knuckle BJE’s when I get around to using the SD axles I have.

IMG_5757.jpeg
 
 
And those seem to be ECGS's old 1480 size KP C's....not the new 1550/2.5T sized ones.
 
I was a dick and only read the first page of thread
No worries....just pointing out there are even more options available now for big ass KPs if someone feels they need to go bigger than BJ and BJE kits. Personally, I'd have to price it all out to see what makes the most sense, but for my tow rig swap, I think BJ/BJE on an 05+ SD60 is going to be far more than adequate.
 
Balljoint eliminators are literally king pins. Do BJE’s and get everything good about the SD stuff with better KP’s without the poor architecture of the old King Pin outer knuckles. I’ll be doing Busted Knuckle BJE’s when I get around to using the SD axles I have.

IMG_5757.jpeg
If you have to buy C and knuckle. Is the super kingpin knuckle from reid not a better choice then ball joint eleminators

In belgium/ europe i cant get an f250 05+ axle for cheap. a junkjard front, if you van find him is arround 1500-2000 euros.
 
If you have to buy C and knuckle. Is the super kingpin knuckle from reid not a better choice then ball joint eleminators

In belgium/ europe i cant get an f250 05+ axle for cheap. a junkjard front, if you van find him is arround 1500-2000 euros.
If buying a knuckle and C, I'd personally also look at American Iron:



At least to know the other options.
 
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