At what point do you say fuck it and go Mog's or AT4K's?
The bigger mogs have the strength.My understanding is the strength just isnt there in the Mogs and AT4ks have a significant weight over a 14b. I think very few people are breaking 40 spline 14 bolts with rec rigs.
The way around this is 35 spline inner shafts and hope they break at the carrier before the gear. But still highly likely that if it broke at the carrier it will crap wreck the carrier thus taking out the gear also. Or if you are 4.88/5.13 gear then put the 10" sd60 gear in it, run 40 spline inners, and rock out. It is still possible that the 40 spline stub will crap out before the gear as the generic shafts are india made yukon stuff and ive seen them take serious abuse but also seen them break before spicer 1550 joint. Its a gamble but an easy gamble when ECGS and others are giving them lifetime warranty if running branik joints.Does a SD60 R&P hold up to 40 spline? One guy I follow closely with an LS3, 42s and about 5100 lbs broke a SD60 R&P but not 40 spline shafts. He also broke a sterling 10.5 with only chromo 35 spline shafts.
Maybe but ive always felt opposite about that. The longer the axle shaft, the more twist it will stand before breaking. I think that the yukon stuff in general nowadays has material flaws. Like I previously stated, Ive watched them take serious abuse but also watched them break before spicer joints. In 1480 stuff, spicer joint will break most always before a chromoly shaft. Ive seen stock d60 shafts out live spicer 1480 joints. So these 1550 stubs are questionable to me based on my previous experience. Direct Drive is the way but only if 14b or hp10 center.I assume the 40 spline stub is beneficial because it’s so much shorter and withstands less twist?
Sorry I worded that poorly. Stubs can take less twist because they are shorter than an inner shaft so because the short stub can’t take as much twist, going to 40 spline is more beneficialMaybe but ive always felt opposite about that. The longer the axle shaft, the more twist it will stand before breaking. I think that the yukon stuff in general nowadays has material flaws. Like I previously stated, Ive watched them take serious abuse but also watched them break before spicer joints. In 1480 stuff, spicer joint will break most always before a chromoly shaft. Ive seen stock d60 shafts out live spicer 1480 joints. So these 1550 stubs are questionable to me based on my previous experience. Direct Drive is the way but only if 14b or hp10 center.
YesSorry I worded that poorly. Stubs can take less twist because they are shorter than an inner shaft so because the short stub can’t take as much twist, going to 40 spline is more beneficial
get a jeep.. lolAnd what about locking hubs? This truck has to do everyhing, even half day road drips at 70 mph.
warn sells upgraded locking hubs. cannot speak to their strength. drive slugs are available, and can be removed to "unlock" the axle. I believe you can remove the slug, and re install the cap.And what about locking hubs? This truck has to do everyhing, even half day road drips at 70 mph.
Oh no doubt. I dont mind constantly spinning the drivetrain if everything can handle it, 205 included. However, if 300M 40 spline hub gears are available I might take that route. Best of both worlds would be removeable lock-outs.get a jeep.. lol
but it is all a compromise somewhere.
Exactly. I get everyones free take-outs.one good thing about 373, crazy common, all the super cheap 250 SD axles have 373s so there is that.
find some 10" 3.73 or 4.30 and rock out. would rather pop a shaft, then destroy a R&PExactly. I get everyones free take-outs.
Funny how all the custom after market is centered around 3.5 or 4" tubes when oem is neither. There is no profit in compatibility I guess. If i could get a center section with tubes and weld my junk yard outers on, that would be a win. Anyways, shipping and duty makes it worth while to do my own fab.hit up TTR and have him build you an ultimate 60 with SD outers in passenger drop. all new center, new tubes in 3.5 or 4", new or used knuckles. for the price he sells them for, it doesn't make sense to mess with a junkyard housing especially you need passenger drop.
my last truck had a 3rz, duals, elockers, rcvs, 38s, blah blah blah. This one is bigger and better in every way.Did the OP mention what size tires he's planning on running on this? I looked back but may have missed it. Seems pretty overkill if he just wants some 35's
Funny you mention that. I was just thinking that if he already has a housing that works for him, and he doesn't want to mess up geometry and drive shaft packaging he's already worked to dial in with portals then copying the guy who did the Merritor 2:1 planetaries (skipped link?) might be the better route.At what point do you say fuck it and go Mog's or AT4K's?
And what about locking hubs? This truck has to do everyhing, even half day road drips at 70 mph.
10in Nitro or spicer gears are claimed to be 30% strong then the standard 9.75in gear.Does a SD60 R&P hold up to 40 spline? One guy I follow closely with an LS3, 42s and about 5100 lbs broke a SD60 R&P but not 40 spline shafts. He also broke a sterling 10.5 with only chromo 35 spline shafts.
The plan will be always, I'll even daily drive it. I draw the line before tow rig and trailer.How often do you drive this thing on the street?