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struggle bus munting my DE ram in TMR mount.

94toytruck said:
Stock steering arm length and a 8" ram is the perfect match for steering and has been for years. Those arms are long AF.
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Eh, it's perfect for shit steering angle. I thought the same thing when I set up my GM60 a few years ago and couldn't even hit the cast stops on the solid knuckles. Never measured the angle, but it wasn't great.

There is a reason psc sells an 8.75" stroke ram. Works much better with kingpin knuckles.
 
Why are there bolts booger welded to the high steer arms?
 
benw said:
Why are there bolts booger welded to the high steer arms?
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I have not drilled the holes in the arms yet. Trying different lengths and seeing the results. The latest was 6.5 from center of KP. I think 7 maybe the cats meow. The first was about 7.75.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
As it sits right now
IMG_0775.jpeg
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Can you notch this ram mount more and move it to the right to center it more ?

Also, if you have aftermarket ujoints and shafts, start slowly grinding the knuckle stops to use more turning angle. If not, you're loosing leverage by not using the full stroke of the ram
 
Bebop said:
Can you notch this ram mount more and move it to the right to center it more ?

Also, if you have aftermarket ujoints and shafts, start slowly grinding the knuckle stops to use more turning angle. If not, you're loosing leverage by not using the full stroke of the ram
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Yes aftermarket shafts and joints. And yes I could move more toward center a bit. But not 100 percent I can get centered. But worth a try for sure
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
just because of visual aesthetics or performance?
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We've had the discussion with WaterH a while back and he did even make a cardboard mock-up of my claims, but it doesn't steer the same amount left and right. I can feel the difference at full lock and don't like it. It's more perceptible the more angle there is.

As far as aesthetics, unless you are reaaaaaally looking for it, you almost can't tell. Definitely not that.
 
Bebop said:
We've had the discussion with WaterH a while back and he did even make a cardboard mock-up of my claims, but it doesn't steer the same amount left and right. I can feel the difference at full lock and don't like it. It's more perceptible the more angle there is.

As far as aesthetics, unless you are reaaaaaally looking for it, you almost can't tell. Definitely not that.
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interesting....I wouldnt have guess it mattered if your tie rods were offset lengths too. Learned something new:homer:
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
interesting....I wouldnt have guess it mattered if your tie rods were offset lengths too. Learned something new:homer:
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Geometry is different if the high steer arms are the same but the tie rods are different lengths
The triangles are not the same.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Eh, it's perfect for shit steering angle. I thought the same thing when I set up my GM60 a few years ago and couldn't even hit the cast stops on the solid knuckles. Never measured the angle, but it wasn't great.

There is a reason psc sells an 8.75" stroke ram. Works much better with kingpin knuckles.
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Odd, we've been able to hit stock knuckle stops with stock steering arm length with a 8" ram no problem in the past. Probably been 10 years since I set one up off stock steering arms though so maybe I'm wrong. I know my steering doesn't work, people have been telling me it won't work for the past 4-5 years. I'll just keep wheeling it till it stops working I guess.
 
Bebop said:
Do it. As close as possible.

Mine is off by 1" compared to axle centerline and I hate it.
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pennsylvaniaboy said:
just because of visual aesthetics or performance?
Click to expand...

Bebop said:
We've had the discussion with WaterH a while back and he did even make a cardboard mock-up of my claims, but it doesn't steer the same amount left and right. I can feel the difference at full lock and don't like it. It's more perceptible the more angle there is.

As far as aesthetics, unless you are reaaaaaally looking for it, you almost can't tell. Definitely not that.
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An offset ram will make a difference in steering from left to right.....how big depends on how large the tie rod angles are at any point in the range of movement. The larger the angles at any point the larger the difference will be. If you're lucky enough to have pretty straight tire rods both straight and lock then the difference of the ram offset will be less noticeable.

Current set up looks pretty straight so i wouldn't worry too much about feeling a difference. That's just my .02
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
interesting....I wouldnt have guess it mattered if your tie rods were offset lengths too. Learned something new:homer:
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Yes, my mock up did confirm bebop’s statement. Having said that, I doubt that most people would notice the difference. Obviously, the more your offset, the worse it is. I ended up mounting mine slightly offset and I’ve never noticed driving it. I don’t remember how much mine is offset, but I think it’s at least an inch.
 
94toytruck said:
Odd, we've been able to hit stock knuckle stops with stock steering arm length with a 8" ram no problem in the past. Probably been 10 years since I set one up off stock steering arms though so maybe I'm wrong. I know my steering doesn't work, people have been telling me it won't work for the past 4-5 years. I'll just keep wheeling it till it stops working I guess.
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Mine were solids, not bone stock, no idea how they compare.

We put an 8 3/4" on my father in laws 78-79 Ford with rieds and had to trim the steering stops off, but no binding.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
I have not drilled the holes in the arms yet. Trying different lengths and seeing the results. The latest was 6.5 from center of KP. I think 7 maybe the cats meow. The first was about 7.75.
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I just went thru this for making my ram mount.

Ended up drilling inline with kp/steering arm centerline and 7” from kp to the hole for the heim.

This got me like 8.030” travel on the ram/tierods.

So between slop and the 8” ram, the ram won’t be overtravelling the stops.

I measured the distance from truss to tie rod, with wheels straight, and at full lock, and found the 1/2 way point ( in terms of distance from tie rod to truss)

Then mounted the ram at that centerline forward from truss,

My personal perspective was that the chance of clipping something with a tire with enough force to hurt, based on my wheeling style, won’t be at full lock. I was thinking it would likely be at 1/2” steering angle on average, and that’s when the tie rod and ram would be in a straight line.

That was easier for me, bc I had blank canvas to create a plate to mount the ram from truss to bash bar.



IMG_4945.jpeg
IMG_4989.jpeg
IMG_4991.jpeg
 
grabbed this pic when I was out at the shop. Not mine but it's been through alot of wheeling, tie rods never been a issue. Nearly straight at full turn. Pics are with the wheel straight.
 

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update.

after many many trial and errors of chasing down the almost perfect ram travel i think i am with in 1/8 inch or less so thats a win. the black line is how much the ram sucks in at full lock. i drilled the hole at 7.120 from center line of king pin.

1708347651507.png

the steering stop


1708347736314.png


full lock to pass side
1708347804092.png


to the drivers side
1708347894088.png
 
This is great !

Now grind the stops a smidge so they don't touch at full lock (be able to clear a sheet of paper or so) and send it.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I'd rather struggle to get something perfect (or at least what I think is perfect) than just slap shit together like most and struggle on the trail with issues.
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Absolutely.
But you gotta be mindful of scope creep or you end up like me and have a half torn down rig in the shop for years cause you're "making it better".
 
Bebop said:
Absolutely.
But you gotta be mindful of scope creep or you end up like me and have a half torn down rig in the shop for years cause you're "making it better".
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We have a friend how frequently does this. We literally tell him just fix it or you'll go down the rabbit hole again. Everything turns into the justification for something else and then it gets to be too much and he's wondering why he hasn't wheeled in a year.
 
Bebop said:
Absolutely.
But you gotta be mindful of scope creep or you end up like me and have a half torn down rig in the shop for years cause you're "making it better".
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"nah man, I really should pull the engine so I can fix that right"

"I should really fix the Aerostar before I tear that apart"

"I should really fix the Ranger before working on that"

"I should really do the head gasket on the car that seeps before that"


Say nothing of the car that needs a trans but is parked in by the Aerostar. :laughing:
 
Bebop said:
Absolutely.
But you gotta be mindful of scope creep or you end up like me and have a half torn down rig in the shop for years cause you're "making it better".
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Add is real :laughing:

I've been trying to do "phases" on my current one. Worked well so far the last 2 years.

But ya, I totally get what you're saying.
 
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