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struggle bus munting my DE ram in TMR mount.

chaplinfj60

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so i am trying to install a simple weld together TMR universal mount for my DE ram. its welded together fine. but the problem i have are the rod angles. i cant get them even close to correct. i know i could move the high steer arm bolt hole and get them to line up better. the only reason i dont want to is because right now when i turn left of right the ram stops less than and 1/8" from the steering stops on the knuckles so to me that is damn near perfect. no spacers needed.
i have also saw the diagrams that say say when the ram is extended one way or the other the rod on that side should be in line with the ram. but i cant not even come close.

maybe i need to move the ram its self forward. in the mount i can go about 3/8 inch. i maybe able to angle the mount the mount some... i also realize my truss maybe too far back ward and that is messing things up.
any way here are a couple photos. these are just different places i had the mount. the big notch in the top plate is for when that plate was against the truss i had to work around the cross supports.

again this is not rocket science so what the heck am i missing. or am i making mountains out of mole hills.

1707763270520.png

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You're working with a setup that's not perfect.

This is really good if you're 1/8 from the steering stops at full crank.

I'd weld it as is and not worry about it.

Make a protection for the shaft, cause it's just a matter of time before it hits rocks.
 
Looks like the ram is offset to the drivers side? hard to tell. From the pictures I'd say the ram needs to move away from the axle and up a little. I was always taught that its best to have everything in line when the ram is extended. Doesn't mean it has to be this way just that it will be best for the ram.
 
so i am trying to install a simple weld together TMR universal mount for my DE ram. its welded together fine. but the problem i have are the rod angles. i cant get them even close to correct. i know i could move the high steer arm bolt hole and get them to line up better. the only reason i dont want to is because right now when i turn left of right the ram stops less than and 1/8" from the steering stops on the knuckles so to me that is damn near perfect. no spacers needed.
i have also saw the diagrams that say say when the ram is extended one way or the other the rod on that side should be in line with the ram. but i cant not even come close.

maybe i need to move the ram its self forward. in the mount i can go about 3/8 inch. i maybe able to angle the mount the mount some... i also realize my truss maybe too far back ward and that is messing things up.
any way here are a couple photos. these are just different places i had the mount. the big notch in the top plate is for when that plate was against the truss i had to work around the cross supports.

again this is not rocket science so what the heck am i missing. or am i making mountains out of mole hills.

That's your answer right there

I'd say considering that, it looks good. Move it as far forward as you can and weld it up.
 
Question. Do the tie rods need to be equal length? Dies the ram need yo be centered on the axle
 
Why can’t you drill another hole in the arm?

I almost ordered that same mount but it’s not hard to make it.

IMG_2751.jpeg


I was told to mount mine in a straight line, I’m going with this unless somebody more smarterer than me has a better idea.
 
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Screw, new buggy time:laughing:

In a perfect world that setup would likely have a shorter ram travel and arms with holes further back and be pretty lined up and still get full steering.
 
Why can’t you drill another hole in the arm?

I almost ordered that same mount but it’s not hard to make it.


I was told to mount mine in a straight line, I’m going with this unless somebody more smarterer than me has a better idea.

The problem with straight when wheels are straight is that when you turn full lock, they are no longer straight and the rod is most vulnerable when it's fully extended.
 
The problem with straight when wheels are straight is that when you turn full lock, they are no longer straight and the rod is most vulnerable when it's fully extended.
Vulnerable to what?

Breaking heims off at extreme angles?

Bashing into rocks?

Once the 1/4” plate is mounted on the flat plane, it will get a skid and a bent 1.5” tube knuckle ball to knuckle ball. I plan on being able to plow straight ahead with no damage to any steering.
 
Vulnerable to what?

Breaking heims off at extreme angles?

Bashing into rocks?

Once the 1/4” plate is mounted on the flat plane, it will get a skid and a bent 1.5” tube knuckle ball to knuckle ball. I plan on being able to plow straight ahead with no damage to any steering.

Bending the rod if you hit something with the tire.
 
Vulnerable to what?

Breaking heims off at extreme angles?

Bashing into rocks?

Once the 1/4” plate is mounted on the flat plane, it will get a skid and a bent 1.5” tube knuckle ball to knuckle ball. I plan on being able to plow straight ahead with no damage to any steering.
Awe, I see you drive like me!:lmao: Rock brail is my driving style.:flipoff2:
 
Screw, new buggy time:laughing:

In a perfect world that setup would likely have a shorter ram travel and arms with holes further back and be pretty lined up and still get full steering.
and loose a bunch of leverage.
Terrible idea.

The problem with straight when wheels are straight is that when you turn full lock, they are no longer straight and the rod is most vulnerable when it's fully extended.
That's the theory.
In practice my tie-rods are straight when the wheels are straight and they held clipping a tree at 40mph and shearing my high steer arms.
Both ram and tie-rods were fine.
 
Drill a new hole in the high steer arm and get a little more angle on the joints. Remove or grind down the knuckle stops. You probably are not at 45° yet. The drag link angle looks like too much side load on the cylinder rod.
 
Drill a new hole in the high steer arm and get a little more angle on the joints. Remove or grind down the knuckle stops. You probably are not at 45° yet. The drag link angle looks like too much side load on the cylinder rod.
Do you see where the new hole would be if he driled it in line with the ram? He would be moving the hole at least 3".... it's going to take more than just grinding the stops to let the ram cycle out fully if he moves the holes much more than 1". I do believe his first post says that he wants to keep the steering limited to the stops. What needs to be done is the ram mount pulled off and start with a clean slate. I agree there is too much angle on that setup.
He could limit the ram internally then drill the holes further back though... this might be the route i would take.
 
Looks like the ram is offset to the drivers side? hard to tell. From the pictures I'd say the ram needs to move away from the axle and up a little. I was always taught that its best to have everything in line when the ram is extended. Doesn't mean it has to be this way just that it will be best for the ram.
It is off set for sure. Was trying to stay off the cast housing as much as possible but that’s out the window now. Gonna center for sure. And agree I think it needs to go out away a tiny bit
 
Why can’t you drill another hole in the arm?

I almost ordered that same mount but it’s not hard to make it.

IMG_2751.jpeg


I was told to mount mine in a straight line, I’m going with this unless somebody more smarterer than me has a better idea.
I have not drilled any holes. Just welded a 3/4 in bolt stud to arm to test hole location before I drill
 
In this pic. If I moved the hole in board just about a inch give or take. I am close. And move ram forward about 3/8 inch But i think I loose leverage this way but still don’t like the added steering angle Because shit barley clears link bars now Yes bar is bent Getting replaced 😁
64BFB542-C1C2-4764-BB44-C00A4FEC70E8.jpeg
 

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If he drills another hole in the arm closer to the knuckle he will be cycling the knuckle way past the steering stops...i don't think he wants to do that
Remedied by taking the ram apart and installing some stop tubes to limit the stroke. Just leaves you with the same leverage issue Bebop brought up.
 
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