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Slowpoke attempts to kill himself in a golfcart!

Started pulling the engine apart earlier this week.


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It's been a while since my last update..... Engine is still up in Missouri but from the sounds of it I'll be getting it back in the next few weeks. If my work schedule stays light I should be able to get it installed and over to PPEI for dyno tuning by the 2nd week of February. My engine guy and the tuner both told me I needed to buy a few things to finish off the build so I've been busy gathering parts while I wait for the engine.

Picked up a pair of Schoenfeld micro sprint mufflers. These are 4" diameter x 8" long body race mufflers with a 2" inlet and 2.25" turn down outlets. I'm going to cut the mounting brackets off the old muffler cans and have my buddy tig weld one on each new muffler to keep mounting a bolt on deal...

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I also had to order a Dynojet FT-300 dual wideband O2 sensor kit to pair with my Dynojet PV3 for tuning purposes. I'll get my buddy to tig the 02 bungs into the header when he does the mufflers...
Another thing I was told to buy for the new engine is a pair of Injector Dynamics fuel injectors. Tuner says the stock ones are OK but the I.D. Injectors are a better choice so I'm going to pull the trigger on a pair later this week.
 
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SLOWPOKE693 said:
Its a 3D printed carbon fiber velocity stack. A local guy designed and makes them in very limited numbers and I got lucky enough to get my hands on one. Those things flow BIG numbers.
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Awesome!

I cant remember but are you running a fuel cell? Any plans to mitigate slosh if not?
 
CarterKraft said:
Awesome!

I cant remember but are you running a fuel cell? Any plans to mitigate slosh if not?
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No fuel cell yet, the tuner thinks I'll be fine with the stock capacity tank. Well, as long as I fill the fucking thing before every race...... :shaking:


Not adding any foam because it doesn't get along with meth, but I am running the new fuel return line through the top of the tank directly into the bottom of the fuel pump module so that the pump will never starve for fuel.
 
What about the Altech baffles ? Compatible with methanol?
 
Put my throttle body back together and threw the new injectors and rail on last night. I also jumped the fuel pump relay to run the pump so I could empty all the race fuel out of the tank.....

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:grinpimp:
 
Tonight's mission is going to be to pull the sender out of the tank, modify the top plate to accept the return line fitting, swap to the new pump and then run my new return line directly into the bottom of the fuel pump module so the pump never starves for fuel even when its low. :smokin:

I'll post some pictures of the progress tonight....
 
Made some progress while I was at work earlier. The bulkhead fitting supplied with the return line is made to just dump fuel back into the tank through the top of the sending unit. Instead of doing it that way I decided to drill the tank side of the bulkhead fitting out and tap it to 1/8" NPT so that I can screw a -6 male hose fitting into the bottom of it. Normally a hose would just screw on either side of bulkhead fitting but because the lid on my fuel sending unit is so thick the jamb nut ends up on the male hose end fitting threads.

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The male hose fitting screws down alot further into the bulkhead fitting before it gets tight but after drilling the 1/8 side to the -6 i.d. the threads became thin. :flipoff2: Once I get the fuel sending unit drilled and the elbow installed I'll send that silver fitting home for good.


Not much meat left on the 1/8" NPT side...:eek:

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This looks janky AF.

Do it right and get the proper fitting. A few links :

www.fittings.space

Hydraulic Bulkhead Fitting #6 Male JIC 3/8 UNF 9/16-18 Flare AN-06 90 Degree Elbow Adapter Steel

Hydraulic Bulkhead Fitting Zinc Plated Steel Adapter #6 Male JIC 9/16-18 AN-06 Bulkhead 6J-06LN 90 Degree Elbow
www.fittings.space www.fittings.space

BULKHEAD FITTING -8AN BULKHEAD 3"LONG

Measurements are from the back of the mounting flange to the end of the fitting.
www.eddiemarine.com www.eddiemarine.com

Earl's SS983506ERL Earl's Straight -6 Bulkhead - Stainless Steel

These stainless steel bulkhead fittings are ideal for use in custom applications where the AN plumbing must pass the frame on tubing on a street rod or race car. These fittings eliminate the need for tabs or brackets on the frame and allow the plumbing to be hidden on the inner edge of the...
www.holley.com www.holley.com

If the contraption breaks, it may ruin your race, or it could be much worse.
 
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Why not just use a cheap NPT bulkhead and two NPT->JIC adapters?
 
So, last night when I got home I pulled the fuel pump module out of the tank and got to work. First order of business was pulling off the surge tank and getting the old pump out of the housing. That pump housing/baffle/regulator thingy from the factory sure is intresting......
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Once I got that all apart I drilled out the top plate and installed my bulkhead fitting. Then I drilled and tapped the surge tank pickup tube to 1/8" NPT and installed the other male fitting for my return line there....
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Next order of business was gutting the pump housing/baffle/regulator thingy so I can convert it to just a plain old fuel pump holder.....

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I have to cut the top off and modify that housing so I can hook my feed hose directly from the pump to the outlet in the cover without sending fuel all through that contraption like the factory does. The band saw at work should make quick work of that...
 
Went out to the trailer and played with the fuel pump assembly again last night....

First order of business was cutting the top off the housing, pulling the filter media out and then shortening the whole thing enough so that the outlet on the pump was exposed enough to get a feed line on.....

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Once that was all set I heated up the new feed line ends and installed it on the fuel pump outlet, and then on the feed line nipple on the lid......

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Ok, new idea after seeing this...

When building a high HP fuel pump module, the preferred way is to reuse the stock outlet (the one where you used a pushlock to AN conversion fitting) and turn it into a return fitting.

Then, you drill the top plate (like you did) and use a bigger fitting size (like AN8) and turn this into the feed line. The goal is to take advantage of the bigger diameter for more flow.

The plastic fitting in the factory feed line are usually smaller than AN6 so you'd effectively run a choke point in the feed line which is no good.

Last but not least, be careful with re-using the factory pass-through electrical plug. the are rarely rated for the amperage the bigger pump will pull and may melt. It is fairly common to replace them with fuel-proof bulkheads and 12 AWG or equivalent fuel rated wire.





I don't know if you care, but I gave you my 2cts anyway.
 
Final step was wiping out the inside of the tank with clean rags to get rid of the gas residue and then dropping the new and improved fuel sending unit back into the tank. I ended up clocking it one notch counterclockwise from stock so that the hoses will have a better path to the engine. :smokin:

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Bebop said:
Ok, new idea after seeing this...

When building a high HP fuel pump module, the preferred way is to reuse the stock outlet (the one where you used a pushlock to AN conversion fitting) and turn it into a return fitting.

Then, you drill the top plate (like you did) and use a bigger fitting size (like AN8) and turn this into the feed line. The goal is to take advantage of the bigger diameter for more flow.

The plastic fitting in the factory feed line are usually smaller than AN6 so you'd effectively run a choke point in the feed line which is no good.

Last but not least, be careful with re-using the factory pass-through electrical plug. the are rarely rated for the amperage the bigger pump will pull and may melt. It is fairly common to replace them with fuel-proof bulkheads and 12 AWG or equivalent fuel rated wire.





I don't know if you care, but I gave you my 2cts anyway.
Click to expand...

If I were building this fuel system for a turbo application I'd do it exactly how you described. 😎

The only reason for doing any of what I did was to bypass the internal filter/regulator and make it so that we are able to keep a steady pressure at the rail. The pump I installed wasn't a big upgrade at all and the wiring will be fine. It actually came with a plug with smaller gauge wires than stock so I chose to reuse the bigger one.
 
Wades_76_cj7 said:
is there a reason for the dimpled golf ball look to the finish on the inside of this? does this help keep the fuel atoms suspended better? or just a side effect of the 3D printing?
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Air is the only thing that passes through that part. The golf ball dimples do something to increase air flow, but I'm no engineer and am not even going to begin to pretend I understand it.
 
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