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School me on 9" ratios

Sean said:
LOL, it's going to be obvious after you say it but what's a JY Toyota CV and HAD flange?
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Thats funny, my wife always says we just speak in numbers and she's right, not just crawler stuff, but equipment and work.

I took the 350 down 95 to pick up some 42s now that I'm putting 60s in the 81, still trying to decide between 14s or 16s in the front. On the way I saw a nice new 315 loading a 359 super 10. Surprised that was handing that 48 bucket.

And almost every buddy of mine knows exactly what I'm talking about. :laughing:
 
94toytruck said:
Sorry Junk yard = JY, CV = double cardan/Constant velocity joint and HAD = High angle driveline.
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Yeah, I still run double cardans at the Atlas II....probably don't even really need them since the angle isn't extreme at either end.
 
Been some killer info in this thread, thanks to those of you who have put in the tech. Ordered some stuff last night and ended up with gear works load bolt case, daytona support from ecgs for 28 spline pinion, and ecgs spool. I will probably order the cheap $115 4.88 gear set off of quick performance and rock out since it comes from the motive factory. If this buggy had any horsepower then id prolly have looked into the 35 spline pinion harder but turbo 22r and aw4 shouldnt hurt the 28 spline pinion.

Also, a friend sent me a post by mark williams who seems to have a large line of 35 spline pinion stuff recently released but pending price, gear works 10 gears may be the better option.
 
Wfoyota said:
Been some killer info in this thread, thanks to those of you who have put in the tech. Ordered some stuff last night and ended up with gear works load bolt case, daytona support from ecgs for 28 spline pinion, and ecgs spool. I will probably order the cheap $115 4.88 gear set off of quick performance and rock out since it comes from the motive factory. If this buggy had any horsepower then id prolly have looked into the 35 spline pinion harder but turbo 22r and aw4 shouldnt hurt the 28 spline pinion.

Also, a friend sent me a post by mark williams who seems to have a large line of 35 spline pinion stuff recently released but pending price, gear works 10 gears may be the better option.
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Why such high gears?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I feel like taller gears warrant the bigger pinion more than deeper ones.
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I didn’t do fancy engineering math but I think this is true.

Simplified example; 4:1 ring & pinion set require 3x more torque on pinion to put same torque to wheels compared to 7:1 ring & pinion will need. 300% more.
 
TrailTamer said:
I didn’t do fancy engineering math but I think this is true.

Simplified example; 4:1 ring & pinion set require 3x more torque on pinion to put same torque to wheels compared to 7:1 ring & pinion will need. 300% more.
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Also larger pinion gear means more torque on the pinion for a given amount of stress at the tooth (ignoring tooth size here).
 
TrailTamer said:
I didn’t do fancy engineering math but I think this is true.

Simplified example; 4:1 ring & pinion set require 3x more torque on pinion to put same torque to wheels compared to 7:1 ring & pinion will need. 300% more.
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Bad math, the input torque on the 4:1 gears would need to be 75% higher than the 7:1 gear set to get the same output torque. However, your point is correct.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Pinion size dictates ratio dingus :homer::flipoff2:
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One can absolutely have minor variations in major or minor OD by fucking about with tooth geometry and tooth counts for a given ratio as mentioned above but yes, smaller pinion is numerically higher assuming all else that can be equal is.

We're trying to have an adult discussion here and your carpetbagging ass is trying to start an argument over nit picky shit. The point, which you missed, is that by moving the minor OD cone outward you are giving the tooth roots better leverage over the shaft than they have in numerically lower ratios (which tend to break gears instead of shear pinions) so you have more opportunity to find weakness in the shaft/yoke/spline bits.
 
Slightly off topic... if using gm60 length shafts then where do I measure for cutting the tubes on this TG9? I have the ruffstuff template so center is easy to pull but at the C, do I measure to kingpin inclination such as a string pulled between center of upper ball joint to lower ball joint?
 
Wfoyota said:
Slightly off topic... if using gm60 length shafts then where do I measure for cutting the tubes on this TG9? I have the ruffstuff template so center is easy to pull but at the C, do I measure to kingpin inclination such as a string pulled between center of upper ball joint to lower ball joint?
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I’ve always put center of ujoint in the inclination line minus 1/8”.
 
Wfoyota said:
Slightly off topic... if using gm60 length shafts then where do I measure for cutting the tubes on this TG9? I have the ruffstuff template so center is easy to pull but at the C, do I measure to kingpin inclination such as a string pulled between center of upper ball joint to lower ball joint?
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I've been browsing around looking for information on this as well. I'm trying to figure where to cut the housing but using 05+ super duty C's and trying to cut for OE shafts and the ruffstuff template. I believe you are correct. But if you find anything else please update here.

My plan was to do what you're saying and then tap the inner C out an 1/8" to have an area to weld instead of cutting the shaft an 1/8" short like Rangerrod suggested.
 
Just heard Ian mention Jason Blanton blew a R&P in qualifying and it made me think of this thread… anyone have any idea what he was running / what blew?
 
fl0w3n said:
Just heard Ian mention Jason Blanton blew a R&P in qualifying and it made me think of this thread… anyone have any idea what he was running / what blew?
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Low pinion GW 10” in the rear with a big BBC as Bebop mentioned. I think Casey Currie also had a low pinion rear 10” get taken out. They’re blaming it on the driveline but IMO it’s banging the driveline on the rocks that takes the pinion bearings out and trashed everything
 
Curries might have been driveshaft related, but he did run it low on oil early in the day. If I remember right, early on he hit the 3rd hard enough to stretch/loosen the mounting studs and lost some oil. One of the pits his guys tightened it back up and added oil. Then there was the driveshaft stuff later on Unless it was him hitting the driveshaft that was enough to loosen the 3rd, in which case ouch. But he wasn't complaining about the driveshaft at that point
 
Currie smoked the rear diff. Driveshaft may have caused the problem if it got bent but it definitely wasn't what put him out.
 
Are these driveshaft killers running centered or offset diffs?
 
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