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Rock Lizard/Weekend Ultra4(?); blown LS, 40s, tons, bypasses, etc.

I've always read/heard you DO NOT want to use the axle stops to stop the travel of the ram as it will just bend/break parts. You need to limit the ram's travel instead. You can do that internally or more simply by placing appropriately sized aluminum spacers that are interference fit over the shaft that will limit how far the shaft can travel before running into the cylinder body and trapped between the body and clevis.
 
I've always read/heard you DO NOT want to use the axle stops to stop the travel of the ram as it will just bend/break parts. You need to limit the ram's travel instead. You can do that internally or more simply by placing appropriately sized aluminum spacers that are interference fit over the shaft that will limit how far the shaft can travel before running into the cylinder body and trapped between the body and clevis.

I was told by Howe that they want both stops to come into play at the same time. So when the ram stops, you'd adjust the knuckle stops to hit at the same time.
 
I've always read/heard you DO NOT want to use the axle stops to stop the travel of the ram as it will just bend/break parts. You need to limit the ram's travel instead. You can do that internally or more simply by placing appropriately sized aluminum spacers that are interference fit over the shaft that will limit how far the shaft can travel before running into the cylinder body and trapped between the body and clevis.
I was told by Howe that they want both stops to come into play at the same time. So when the ram stops, you'd adjust the knuckle stops to hit at the same time.
Yea that's what I was told by Howe also, have both stops engage at the same time. But I wasn't sure exactly why the axle stops were bad. I'm guessing normal axle stops will then cantilever on the ball joints and that is the weak point that would break?

Sean, does putting spacers over the outside of the shaft work? I'm not familiar with the internals of hydraulic rams, is it literally just a hard stop against itself like that or is there some internal fluid bypass where it stops pushing at some point to prevent hurting itself?
 
Yea that's what I was told by Howe also, have both stops engage at the same time. But I wasn't sure exactly why the axle stops were bad. I'm guessing normal axle stops will then cantilever on the ball joints and that is the weak point that would break?

Sean, does putting spacers over the outside of the shaft work? I'm not familiar with the internals of hydraulic rams, is it literally just a hard stop against itself like that or is there some internal fluid bypass where it stops pushing at some point to prevent hurting itself?
Yeah....talked to Jesse Haines about doing it (I've got it on my current buggy now) to limit my steering on the new portals to around 47*....he said it would be fine. I've been running my current D60F that way since 2006. No issues. The thought way back (before aftermarket upgraded strength knuckles were common place) was that it would keep stress off the knuckle/steering arm junction and keep that from breaking. Granted, I put Crane knuckles on mine and welded a brace/support to the bottom of the Sky Mfg. steering arms that added an additional bolt to keep the knuckle and arm together....so I'm not positive I've not broken anything due to the cast steel knuckles and added bracing or b/c I limited the steering to run out of travel before the knuckle ever could.

Yes, it's literally just a hard stop between the clevis and cylinder body. Since it's an interference fit, you freeze it before install, take off your clevis, tap the cold aluminum spacer on until it's flush with the end of the shaft, then screw the clevis back in. The tight fit keeps it in place.

Again, my limited understanding is anytime you go to full lock on a full hydro system, it's bad for the system overall and you don't want to stay that way for long as I think it goes into bypass mode. This spacer doesn't change that.....When you hit the stops, you want to get out of that position as quickly as possible.

Sorry for the formatting here....I've totally screwed it up and cant' seem to fix it.


 
The cylinder stop keeps the cylinder from forcing other shit and breaking it. The axle stop prevents the axle from breaking the cylinder.

If the ram is your stop and you're sliding through a turn at full lock and bump something you might bend/break something in the ram.

If the axle is your stop and the ram keeps going well you've got yourself a hydraulic bender.
 
The cylinder stop keeps the cylinder from forcing other shit and breaking it. The axle stop prevents the axle from breaking the cylinder.

If the ram is your stop and you're sliding through a turn at full lock and bump something you might bend/break something in the ram.

If the axle is your stop and the ram keeps going well you've got yourself a hydraulic bender.
Makes sense. Apparently, I've just been lucky in that regard as I do tend to push a little too fast on the fireroads to the trail head.

Honestly, I haven't noticed any stops on the JHF portal housings I've been looking at....guess I need to figure out how to incorporate some.
 
Couple pictures and some more updates, and lots of rambling.

First of all, I am extremely excited with how the buggy has reinvigorated my passion for it. As I've said in the past, I had been completely burnt out and this project has evolved and changed so many times and was ultimately the largest project I've undertaken so far, that just getting it running and making everything feel like a simple couple day or couple week modification really changes how it feels to work on it. Things like the axles or the fan shroud or tuning feels like massive leaps and improvements since I can actually go out and feel the difference, instead of anticipating how something will be years down the road. It's a ton of fun now that I can experience these changes.

On Tuesday I took the buggy to a power line road which has some little whooped out sections and some good G outs and big bumps and some cross trails, one of the few places nearby that the suspension can get a bit of a work out at speed. My intention was to start feeling out the suspension and beginning the process of dialing it in, which includes starting to figure out how completely undialed it is. Before this I measured the suspension a bunch, and honestly it's so hard to accurately tell where the axle is relative to the chassis or the axles relative to each other, that I started with just checking and setting the links to bring the same length. The axles were 1" out of parallel with each other, so I knew the alignment of everything was off. The front lower links I tweaked a bit and the trailing arms. I think I'll try to measure everything more and get the front axle square to the front of the chassis and the rear to the rear of the chassis, since the subframe the link mounts go to should be the squarest thing on the chassis. I think the axles staying parallel to the chassis through the suspension cycle is probably the most important? Then maybe dial in the lateral position? Regardless, just matching the link lengths which slightly corrected the parallelism of the two axles seemed to have a noticeable effect. Previously the rear seemed to shimmy left or right as it hit bumps and that seemed to be greatly improved. It still does it a bit though.

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I also played with the bypasses a little. This shock setup I don't think is very correct, but that's a whole thing to dive into. I do think I'll bump it to 10" of up travel, right now it's at 8" and I have a feeling that won't be enough. In the past I ran 10" of up travel on my last rig and that handled extremely well. I'm also at the mercy of no front bump stops since I haven't been able to figure out a good packaging setup, and while I do have the front bypasses ramp up as much as possible (which has made a big difference) I need a combination of more front valving and probably some extra tubes to get my goal of the front bypasses being a bump stop to work correctly. With all of that gibberish said, it rides better than I thought. I know it can be a lot better, but I'm still hitting decent size bumps at 40mph and it handles it plenty well. Really excited for the suspension to get good, since there's a ton of potential there and even horribly setup it's a lot of fun to dive into stuff and it takes it.

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The one thing from the first suspension "tuning" run I did learn, was the engine needed some work and I should prioritize that. While it ran alright, it definitely needed some attention. I've been watching videos and reading up more on tuning with the Holley, the biggest issue was very low throttle inputs it would have some bad lag and sometimes would break up on the high end. Today I made a bunch of changes and hooked up the computer after getting a datalogging cable (you'd think that'd be included with an entire ECU and wiring kit). Most of the changes were to the fueling. I modified the base map, target AFR, and acceleration enrichments and it's running pretty well now and considerable spicier than before and no stumbling! Also according to the Holley it's making about 10psi of boost, which I find that hard to believe but the supercharger came with a lingenfelter pulley so maybe it's conceivable. If that's true it's making a lot more boost than I originally thought though, not that thats a bad thing.

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Though the engine isn't all good news. Cylinder 4s exhaust tube has not changed colors like all the others, and appears to not be running. Though for the most part it sounds like it's running on all 8. I have no idea what the history or health of this motor is, it originally was installed so I had something to reference to make the exhaust. Spark plugs, wires, coil packs, compression, no idea on any of that. Hell, I changed the oil two weeks ago for the first time and that raised the oil pressure by 10psi! I think next up will be to give it a little love, especially because today idling after doing a datalog run SOMETHING in the engine was knocking every 5 seconds or so, but seemed to stop after I drove around some more. Course the flip side is I just build the 408 I have laying here, and ignore the $300 5.3 that has 250k on it. Anyways, the 5.3 will get a little look over now that it's getting more duty than it was bargained for, and I think I'll start assembling the 408 sooner than I thought.

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Other things to note, I welded an AN fitting to the true top of the radiator so I can bleed air from it. This hasn't seemed to actually drop the temperature of the engine, but I've gotten more used to how hot it runs after some research. I guess LS easily run over 200 and some of them apparently don't engage the fans until like 220, so it running at 205-210 sometimes shouldn't be a worry.

The axles and midship carrier bearing are all running plenty cool, the midship gets considerably hotter but I factor that to it being clamped between the engine and exhaust. And by hotter, it's at like 150. According to SKF a bearing running at 180 or less has no need for concern. And today most of my driving around was at 40-55mph, and the temps were totally happy.

And that wraps up my current thoughts. Each drive the buggy is getting faster, handling better, and lots of little improvements. I think it has probably 30+ miles on it now with the only real issue being the battery terminals that broke (swapped those for some billet brass ones). I don't know if I'll get it into the rocks this weekend, but it can tear up some two track and desert which is what I wanted, a nice multi purpose rig that can run around comfortably and go slow when it needs to.
 
Glad to hear that you're getting to enjoy all the hard work you've put in. That's all any of us can hope for. I'm happy for you.:beer:

I'm neck deep in year 5 of my build and all I want is to be able to drive it. Been using that thought as a driver to push through to finish it.


An LS engine running over 200* is normal. They all do.
 
why do you say this?

do you know what valving is in there?
Absolutely no idea. I need to tear them down and do some reading and get some advice about what to change them to. In the past I bought shocks and ADS valved them well out the door, this time it's a combination of old shocks and brand new ones, so whatever was sitting on the shelf is the valving in them.

On the one hand it'd be nice just to find someone to help set it up, but the flip side is I want to do it myself and learn as much as possible. Not sure if I'll be able to get it riding well myself, but worth a shot initially. If I get some videos and talk to ADS they've been helpful in the past too.
 
Went to Sand Hollow today for the first real rock trip!

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Met up with Pyleit with his GoatBuilt Ibex, and RPS1030 rode with me. We did three trails, Nasty Half, Joint Effort, and the Fallen, all rated 9s (though the Fallen is hardly a 9). The buggy did extremely well, with a relatively minor hiccup at the very end.

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The only time I've done anything harder than the 7 rated trails was my first time to Sand Hollow for Trail Hero a long time ago when I had my previous 4500 car and had slapped some 40s on it, and I only did one 9 rated trail then I think. So this trip alone was doing harder stuff than I really ever have, or honestly was planning to do on the first trip.

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First off, the buggy seems to be insanely stable. And as I always say, this is completely beyond the realm of anything I've had before. Tube chassis, trailing arms, V8, atlas, etc. So maybe it's par for the course for a buggy, but by my standards I am blown away. Going back to how stable it is, I've been worried that with the trailing arms or maybe how I set stuff up that it wouldn't be very planted and that is far from reality. There were two notable instances where it looked like the driver's side beadlocks was nearly level with the ground and the chassis wasn't unloading and flopping over and was actually super planted. Both times I was waiting for it to fall over and it didn't. And this is without sway bars!

Additionally the fairly long wheel base of ~119" helped more than it hurt I thought. Obviously this is location and obstacle specific, but the big climbs and obstacles that we went through it could reach through and made a lot easier. Going hand in hand with that, the rear with the trailing arms is awesome! Its strapped at 24" as I recall of straight vertical travel, and the straps are a fair bit inboard and the shocks have quite a bit of stroke left at normal droop, so needless to say when flexing it can get wild. I've seen the methodology of having leafs in the front and links in the back with the idea that if the front can make it then the rear definitely can, and that is how this setup feels. If the front can make it over something then I can usually ignore the rear and it will walk through.

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The engine seemed to run really well, and hung out at 190-200 the whole time. We were wheeling for 4 hours, so everything got plenty hot. It ran great all day and seems to be plenty nasty. I'm slightly worried of when I get the big engine in, since this one is almost a bit too touchy to be gentle in spots. Though part of that may be the transmission which we'll get to. The serpentine belt stayed out the whole time so the new belt tensioner setup seems to be the way! The atlas is also behaving a lot nicer now that it's broken in a bit and I've figured out how to (sometimes) smoothly shift it.

May as well address the transmission, it seems to be in a limp mode which locks it in 2nd gear. This would explain why the crawl ratio seems so high, and certainly why the top speed is so low. I haven't read much, not sure if the Holley increases or decreases how easy the fix is since now I can't read any codes.

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The second issue is the supercharger/hydro cooling loop radiator is either way undersized or maybe just doesn't work as well as I envisioned. The cooling loop im pretty sure was boiling, I think I need to get a bit sexier and stuff a larger radiator in there. The radiator for my tundras supercharger has more area, and that's the same size supercharger and obviously doesn't have the hydro cooling to deal with also. But it's currently better than nothing, and should be a relatively simple upgrade.

The third and biggest issue, is on the way back to the truck at some point I bent the wishbone link in the rear so the whole axle is shifted a couple inches. You can tell from the bump stops alignment with the strike blocks.

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At one point there was a loud clunk, im not sure if it was that or when we jumped down some small rocks and the back end felt a little squirrelly as we landed. This thing was supposed to get braced and of course was overlooked getting everything else going. I was thinking about converting it to a double triangulated 4 link but there's no good place to mount the chassis link mounts inboard so the links would clear the shocks, which is why the wishbone is a wishbone and has some bent tubes. So I think I'll keep the wishbone, pull it out and make a new one properly that is a truss (like a bridge) so it can handle all the loads. I'd call this a hiccup, since I didn't know anything was wrong until it was on the trailer! Another thing that is a relatively simple upgrade, and couldn't ask for a better way to find out that weakness than parking it on the trailer after a day of wheeling!

There are a handful of other things that need to be added to the list. The brake pedal needs some comfort upgrades, I need a roof so the sun doesn't kill me, I need some dedicated storage spots, etc. BUT this was an extremely successful day, I couldn't ask for a better first trip. The thing blows me away with what it crawled through, and then was able to pretty comfortably run through the washboard and whoops and dunes. There is so much potential, and it's already doing everything I wanted, I can't wait to see how much more performance will be squeezed out of it with more tuning and time behind the wheel!
 
you need to get material past the bends. looking through the pictures it appears the bends have an upward sweep in them, is that real or camera playing tricks with my eyes?

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you need to get material past the bends. looking through the pictures it appears the bends have an upward sweep in them, is that real or camera playing tricks with my eyes?

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Yea they do but I think it was just a side effect of having the bend angle a bit off so cranked them down. The new one I'll probably ignore any bends and just do specific nodes and notch the tubes like a chassis. It shouldn't be hard to make it plenty strong, ironically I mainly do structural design for work. Same as the plumber with a leaking sink I guess. That wishbone was very much a quick and dirty solution, the new one will be properly analyzed and designed.

And can you tell me what those valving numbers you suggested for the bypasses mean, I understood everything but that!
 
First thing to address is the bent wishbone. I pulled it earlier this week to get measurements off of it. To reiterate, the plan was to fully plate this, but that was obviously too far on the back burner since it got overloaded quickly.

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The plan was to make a new one from scratch, and reuse the bungs and maybe some of the tubing. I decided instead of doing a plated version like my very original plan, but to do a trussed one. Since I would inevitably be using tubes anyways, may as well use the tubing in the most structurally efficient way. Because I had to go around the shocks (thus the reason for not just a normal 4-link with some straight links on the top), I would follow a similar overall geometry as the original layout but turn the bends into nodes. I figured I'd throw a little engineering at this, but still keep it pretty lazy. I started off by calculating the buckling limit of a normal 4-link that would use 1.75x.120 wall tubes, and the new wishbone would then be designed to handle those loads. With the length between joints, that is a buckling load of 20k pounds, and from the angle of the links that breaks down into a lateral vector of 10k which is one link going into compression, and a frontal vector of 35.5k which would be two (both) links going into compression. And that is then the loads I designed the wish bone for, a lateral load of 10k, a frontal load of 35.5k, and a combined loading of the two simultaneously. The actual frontal load the links experience even in low range with a much larger engine is a fair bit lower than 35.5k, but it was close enough that I decided to stick with the higher load since then I know if a 4 link can handle it then so can the wishbone and ultimately the stresses between the two loads was marginally different. I started out with a truss looking like this:

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The reason I'm calling this a truss and why it's setup this way is if you assume each node (joint) can't react a moment (torque) then it will only take axial loads which is ideal. This is why triangles are preferable, everything is in purely compression or tension, since bending is usually bad. In this case it's essentially two triangles that connect at that middle horizontal element, and then that is mirrored over to the other side. So it's really three triangles that all share a common element in the middle. Because none of the tubes (very simplistically) are in bending, there is no need to add plates to stiffen anything up. This is opposed to my original idea where everything is plated, and is essentially a brute force approach to react all of the bending loads--where as the truss is reacting everything the same way that a normal 4-link would where the links are only in axial compression or tension.

However, after my first run through FEA I realized the center horizontal tube had essentially no load going through it, so I removed it. While I'm not a huge fan of this, the reason it works is because this is obviously not a simple truss where each node is free from transferring moment. All the nodes are welded and can transfer moment, so getting rid of the three overlapping triangles for a "two triangles and a diamond" didn't change anything and just saved mass. With that said, I would've stilled added the horizontal tube but what really turned me off was figuring out how to actually fabricate it. It would have to get added before at least one of the longer tubes that intersects it, and all of those tubes are primary load path and I wouldn't be able to get a full weld where it really mattered. If I could've added the horizontal tube after the three main tubes were welded, then I would've added the horizontal just because it feels right, but since I couldn't do that and would have to compromise some other weld on a part that would be taking load, I decided to delete that tube and go with this configuration:

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And as I said, since I'm super lazy and not getting paid to do this, I only did FEA of the three loading conditions:

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Looking up the strength of DOM tubing which is what I was using, the yield is 60ksi so that's what I aimed to stay below. The highest stresses go beyond that, but the highest stress is usually an outlier of some tight corner or the mesh isn't fine enough or something else. What really matters is what does the majority of the stress distribution look like. As you can see, the combined loading has a nominal stress right around yield, what I call nominal is whatever the highest stress that is commonly found in the model (essentially the highest REAL stress to be concerned about). As you can see from the clipped view in the bottom left, at 60ksi (so the steel is brought right up to yield) there is really only the top left tube that is kissing on yield, and in reality that section of that tube is in compression so probably isn't yielding anyways. On top of that, this is at YIELD, meaning the structure will begin to permanently deform but has not catastrophically failed so it can handle a lot more and make it home fine, and this is at the loads that would buckle a traditional 4-link. Going back to what I was saying how this isn't as simple as a basic truss, you can see the right side of the part is all straight and happy since it's in tension, but the left since since there's some eccentric load paths due to the tubes having to join together and attach to the rod end in a way that isn't a straight shot, results in some bending which is then highlighted by the two tube elements that are deflecting and have extremely high stresses.

Moving right along since this is probably boring people, I converted the tubes into flat pattern layouts and printed them off at 1:1 scale so I could trace them onto the tubes to notch them. This was needed due to the extreme mating angles of some of the tubes, which were outside the range of my tube notcher.

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It turned out I didn't have enough 1.75 DOM but did have some smaller and larger DOM, and some close 1.65 x .135 HREW tubing. The issue is HREW only has a yield of 40ksi, and at the end of the day no matter how I convinced myself to lower the loads or how much stress was acceptable or what would happen if it started to yield, the obvious answer was just go find more 1.75 (I literally needed two 30" sections!). I called up Fabn801 who is the guy I originally bought my chassis from 5 years ago, and out of coincidence lives the next town down the highway, so I went over there and he gave me the extra tubing I needed which worked out great!

Fast forward all of yesterday and we ended the day here:

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I traced the flat patterns, cut out the bulk on the band saw, grinded the rest out, did a bunch of fitting and sanding, and had welded on some temporary holding parts to make sure everything was as square?)---triangular as possible. I reused the axle side tube and rod end bung, which is 2.0 x .25 DOM, and then cut the other bungs off the original and turned them down on the lathe back to their original dimensions to reuse them which worked out great. I decided to MIG weld everything since I didn't feel like using the TIG, and after swapping new lenses into my helmet and being able to actually see again, I think it turned out pretty good!

Today I installed it into the buggy. There were two issues, first up was my measurements were off by about 0.25" so I had to go in and cut the chassis side bungs down by 0.25". And then the mufflers were hitting at full droop, so I pizza cut the exhaust tube right near the muffler to angle them down as well as outboard (they were pointing right at the shocks before).

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I think it turned out great, it's super simple and elegant. It's not light, but it might be the lightest option, and at the end of the day I think it's only a couple of pounds heavier than a 4-link setup since it essentially has two extra half length tubes, but then one less rod end. And I am not advocating that this is better than a 4-link, this is just the only option that works for how my suspension is setup. If I had planned ahead better originally this would've been a triangulated 4-link but it is what it is.
 
Additionally, I went ahead and weighed everything. The buggy's total front weight is around 2000lbs:

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Though I realized after the fact that my scale is only rated for 2000lbs, which is why it probably maxed out there. So I went ahead and weighed the front axle by itself and the front of the chassis.

The front axle is 868lbs (this is fully loaded with tires and everything, shocks were just unbolted from it).

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And then lifting the chassis off of the lift with the shocks still disconnected came up with 959lbs. So this is what the lift arms are supporting. Obviously that's slightly less than 2000lbs, but ball park checks out with the original 2000lbs measurement.

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The total rear weight came out at 1797lbs:

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And the rear axle came in at 879lbs. This was with the shocks connected, but the coilover collars loose so the springs weren't doing anything. The chassis was in the air from the lift and the axle was off the ground completely with the coilovers not doing anything.

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In summary of weights, essentially if you broke the buggy into quarters, each one weighs the same: front axle, front half of chassis, rear half of chassis, rear axle. Each of those quadrants is right around 900lbs. On the one hand the buggy is under 4000lbs as it sits by quite a bit which is great, if I ever enter it in a race the limit for 1.75" tube is 4400lbs (and that's without tools or spare tire or full tank of gas, essentially a dry weight), so I have a lot more room than I was figuring. The flip side is my sprung and unsprung weight is essentially identical, which I've heard can make suspension tuning hard. Is the suspension damping the axles or the chassis? They weigh the same so which one is going to move? Though I am stoked that the weight distribution is right near 50/50 and that's without a spare tire on the back.

Anyways, this was a bit more technical post than usual. The next task will be figuring out the transmission being stuck in 2nd. But at least the buggy is back to a drivable state!

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So all of the chassis weights in that previous post are totally fucking wrong. After talking to RPS1030 and him pointing out that the suspension/lift arms/lifting points were all different (seems like the most obvious fucking thing, but I was trigger happy with the results I guess), I went and did some quick measuring and based off the previous measurements and the moment arms came up with an actual total vehicle weight of 4300lbs. I then just wrapped a chain around each tire and lifted it until it was just off the ground and came up with the following numbers, which totals 4500lbs:


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I don't think I can measure it more accurately with the crane scale than just lifting one tire at a time. So now my excitement of it being lighter than I thought is replaced by the realization that it's turning into a heavy pig, and has already shot past the 1.75 tube limits for Ultra4 (without pleading my case to the race director or engineer or whatever the rules say).

At some point I'll weigh it on proper scales, but I doubt it will change much. And I still have quite a bit of shit to add. Obviously I was only going to "race" to have fun, I don't want to fuck with sponsorships and the time involved to actually competitively race. But I'm still bummed that now at a minimum I'll have to go and explain and have some guy have mercy on me to allow me to race if I ever want to since I don't comply with the simplest rule...

On the plus side, I took my father in law for a 30 mile ride today and everything did great. This was the longest distance and most consistent higher speed (35-50mph mostly) I've done so far, and the differentials and carrier bearing were all at happy temperatures.

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wick cool. i ve never seen trailing arms inboard as much as yours. ( and i dont think i have ever seen a set in person, just internet and tv is the only place i saw them so i am not a great example :) ) does that help or limit what you want to do? again super awesome
 
wick cool. i ve never seen trailing arms inboard as much as yours. ( and i dont think i have ever seen a set in person, just internet and tv is the only place i saw them so i am not a great example :) ) does that help or limit what you want to do? again super awesome
I've never seen them that far inboard either, and is mainly due to packaging as I recall (it's been years obviously since I made the choice to put them there). Since that outer tube is one of the original rock lizard tubes, to get the trailing arms to work and the dual shocks to fit I had to crank the chassis pivots inboard. The alternative was to mount the shocks outboard of the chassis but I wanted them to be protected, so due to how the rear of the rock lizard narrows so heavily kind of dictated where the arms are mounted. And since at the time I wasn't familiar with setting up suspension (as if I am now lol) I went with this gnarly level of triangulation which is why the upper mounts are so far outboard. For some reason I thought the rear needed a ton of triangulation, but I don't know why I thought that considering the front end has a normal looking 4 link.

But I digress, I was like you and had no experience with trailing arms let alone setting them up, but I wanted to try them and learn like so many things on this project, and the constraints of an off the shelf chassis and trying to not overly modify it is mostly what set it up the way it is. And I've had some people say it'll be fine, others say it'll handle horribly, but everyone has an opinion on what a suspension will do, but so far it seems to handle great I think!
 
Finally went wheeling again today! The buggy has seen a bunch of small tweaks and improvements, none of which I took pictures of. The biggest change is the transmission now has gears 1-3! After looking through the Holley instructions there was a wire that was kind of glossed over in the instructions but detailed in the back in the wiring diagrams that it needed power, and after hooking that up the transmission shifts! Though something is majorly jacked about 4th gear, it squeals and smokes and acts like the brakes are applied when it shifts into 4th. This tranny was like $100 and no idea on its history---but it has two more gears than I'm used to, one higher and one lower so I'm not complaining, working around 4th is fine for now!

I also changed the brake master fittings to banjos instead of the awkward setup before that was temporary and had the brake lines run outside of the cage. I added a little aluminum brake reservoir since the OEM style one leaked at steep angles and was zip tied to the cage. I added a limit strap between the two trailing arms to act as a driveshaft loop in case the front joint explodes. I cleaned up the wiring when I got the trans working, and also wired up the winch and a little Baja designs bar I had laying around, I also tied the fuel pump through the switch pros just for simplicity. The winch is mounted, and I opened the solenoids so it's wired directly to the switch pros. The little Baja designs is I think an older 8" S6 and I mounted it to the winch using some of the bolts on the winch, this was a cleaner approach than some brackets on the chassis and keeps it out of the way. I made a little flag mount that's behind the fuel cell. Routed the fuel cell breather a bit nicer. Trimmed the brake pedal bracket. Setup the digital dash how I wanted. Added some more floor panels, mostly around the passenger area. And lifted the rear about 4" per the advice of ADS. I also sent ADS all the weights and measurements and yesterday received rebuild kits for all eight shocks, as well as valving for all of them, and even some bypass tube spring changes. Next week I'll get into that and I'm very excited for the shocks to get a baseline tune in them and see how it feels.

Today my schedule and Pyleit finally aligned so we did a trail in the morning called Dutchman Draw. I had done this once before in the can am and broke a CV, and didn't even do the actually "hard" spot. The whole trail seemed so difficult back then so I wanted to know how the buggy would do and have looked forward to going back. And of course, the whole trail ended up being a walk in the park. Couldn't even tell what spots I had struggled with before, but obviously that's comparing two vehicles in utterly different weight classes. I'd say Dutchman draw is probably an 8 rated trail, and one of my favorite since the scenery is really cool and different than the red rock trails.

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Not a lot of pictures, meaning nothing went wrong! I think we stopped three times, once to piss and two to scout the obstacle. There is one big crack we bypassed since it would've been impossible to extract someone if they got stuck with only one rig, but otherwise was a fun and scenic little trail.

Buggy didn't have any issues. Having 1st gear after wheeling previously in 2nd the whole time and thinking that was 1st is awesome, a lot of stuff I can just idle through and if it takes more than 200rpm of throttle to make it over something it's rare. And of course now it feels properly nasty, and can cruise at 60mph happily. Much more enjoyable having an actual crawl ratio! I'm like a kid in a candy store every time I drive it, it's an absolute blast and works great!
 
Didn't touch the buggy all week. Yesterday RPS1030 came over and we decided to go out today. I fixed the fuel cell pass through that had come loose and was leaking, and then slapped some roof panels together with 1/8" aluminum and some hydroturf I had laying around from my jet ski. It pushed the little plasma table to the limit but turned out great, and I have some cut outs to grab the chassis for getting in.

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Today we got up early and were rolling before 630 to beat the heat. Apparently we should've gone earlier by 5 minutes because this huge group was at the parking lot and left right before us going 5mph and appeared to head to the trail we had wanted to do, Chain Reaction (9). So instead we went to the adjacent canyon which is the trail Triple 7s (7). Kind of a boring trail I thought, but there was this fun optional obstacle near the start. I wasn't able to make it since my belly would hit, maybe with a different approach I could get it.

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Weirdly at this spot, I could only go backwards so far before my diff would get stuck, and could kind of wiggle around and go forward but then run out of traction. In an attempt to back up I utterly crunched the rear diff cover which had already been dented last trip, and this time I poked a hole in it which started leaking.

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Luckily I had a rag with me so used all my duct tape and some zip ties to make a diaper thing to plug it.

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RPS1030 turn on same obstacle. Big ledges making those 42s look small!

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We finished triple 7s, not much to note.

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After that we went to a trail called Twister (9) that I hadn't heard of, and probably for good reason because it may of been the dumbest trail ever made. It was like someone selected every rock to climb over, didn't matter where it was, so there was no flow and instead the trail just made 180deg turns all over so you were supposed to climb every conceivable rock in this field of rocks. I referred to it as 87 turns trail. But there was a moment of fun, and where we thought the trail actually started but turned out to be the trail Red Dot (13). Which quickly went from "oh finally something cool" to "oh this isn't the trail we wanted, and explains why it's impossible". We lined up on it a bit, but it was so steep and smooth...well there's a reason that trail is a 13 and our fat drag axles weren't going to make it far, and in my case I made it about a foot and couldn't go further. RPS1030 made it a bit further before he lost traction.

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And shortly after that we went a bit further down Twister, decided it was a dumb trail, and it was already getting hot so went back to the trucks!

Kind of a boring day, but at least we logged two more trails. I ordered proper diff covers, and luckily Ruffstuff is running a 4th of July sale so the timing actually worked out great.
 
“The third and biggest issue, is on the way back to the truck at some point I bent the wishbone link in the rear so the whole axle is shifted a couple inches.”

If only someone had warned you about the wishbone 3 link:flipoff2: Congratulations on getting it out on the trail!
 
“The third and biggest issue, is on the way back to the truck at some point I bent the wishbone link in the rear so the whole axle is shifted a couple inches.”

If only someone had warned you about the wishbone 3 link:flipoff2: Congratulations on getting it out on the trail!
To be fair it was about 10% complete :flipoff2: but you're not wrong
 
(PART 1) I was gonna wait to update the build but I have too many photos to wait.

It got too hot after the last post to go wheeling at Sand Hollow, I think I took the buggy out once to give my father in law a ride but that was just leaving the house and some of the dirt trails around here. Since it was so hot I figured I may as well build the stroker engine I've had laying around for a year.

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Not really any photos of this process, so voila it's built. This took about a week, plus some Summit orders since of course the LS2 style parts I had didn't work with the new LS3 style heads. The front and rear covers, and the lifter guides are stock
:D
Texas Speed 408 forged crank, K1 forged rods, Wiesco -15cc forged pistons, AFR LS3 mongoose heads, Brian Tooley Stage 1 supercharger cam, etc. Block is machined and the whole rotating assembly was balanced at the local machine shop. It also has a Tilden oil pan which I'm very excited for, it's about 2" shorter than my current pan, all steel plate plus a 3/16" integrated skid on the bottom, and has baffling and trap doors in the sump. I've been waiting to have this pan on before I put a chassis extension/skid to protect the engine.

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The engine is lacking a couple parts that need to come off of the 5.3: the supercharger and fuel system move as one unit, so they'll stay integrated to the buggy so I don't have to crack any fuel lines. And then the water pump and accessories are all custom obviously so need to come off the 5.3 also. As it sits is as far as the new engine can get without pulling parts off the 5.3.

The plan WAS to swap the engine in last week. But there is a desert race hosted by BOR called Knolls which is west of Salt Lake City at the end of the month, it's actually the first race I ever did with my old 4500 racecar (6 years ago), and they are a small organization and mostly Utah people and super chill so a good place to get your feet wet and they'll work with you and help you get through tech and stuff.... so I'm shooting to take the buggy to that! All they really care about is safety gear, so in the grand scheme there's not a ton I need to do to make that race. But I decided instead of throwing my fancy new engine in, I will keep the ole 5.3 that has proven some degree of reliability plus if it dies I don't really care, as opposed to an unproven and expensive new engine that ideally gets tuned on the dyno.

I have a long list of stuff to do, but most of it are relatively quick and easy items. As of today I have two weekends left to get everything going! The single largest task was rebuilding the shocks. I had reached out to ADS and gave them all the specs and they sent me rebuild kits, new valving, and bypass springs to change everything. Four of the shocks were from my old 4500 racecar and four of them were brand new, so the valving in them was completely random so rebuilding them would set them all to a known baseline at least and hopefully make it ride a bit better (and refresh the four that were 6 years old). The ADS valving was very thorough, they included valve stacks for comp/rebound and specs for the valving for each shock, included bleed screws and how many per piston, included bypass valve spring changes and specs of which springs where, and even down to how many turns out the bypass tubes should have!

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I started out machining some jaws for my vice to hold the bodies and shaft:

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And then a bunch of pictures for anyone that's never taken a shock apart:

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And all done!

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I will say this was my first time taking bypasses apart, I had revalved some coilovers a long time ago and the coilovers are extremely easy. The bypasses are a bit of a bitch since there's all the tubes and getting the air out can be a pain. Not surprised if I completely messed up some of them, but it was fun! All the shocks looked good, and the new shocks I didn't replace all the seals unless something seemed wrong. There was one shock that had nitrogen in the oil so the IFP seal had failed, but that was the only shock that had an inherent issue and actually required a rebuild. The front coilovers are now coil carriers and all their valving was pulled. I haven't driven it yet, and I suspect there is not enough shock for racing, but I look forward to trying out how it feels and then going from there and upgrading the shocks if needed.

I also decided that I would shoe horn front bumps in somehow. It badly needed bumps, and even with improved valving I wanted hydros. Additionally I had delrin spacers on the shock shafts before to limit the up travel, so wanted to fix that.

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I started out lowering the chassis as far as I could, and then started figuring out how to cram bump stops somewhere. And fast forward through some fabrication pictures:

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Plenty of room around the steering filter
:D


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(PART 2) I convinced myself that blocking the engine in wasn't a big deal since it has to get angled up for the crank to clear that tube anyways.

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Capped the bottom and the tube off. The whole thing is a combination of MIG and TIG which I've found to be the most efficient and looks good enough. I have a hard time welding two edges together with the MIG, so those interfaces are usually TIG and then if it's a big contact area I'll just hit it with the MIG to be fine. Considering the rest of the chassis is a nice 50/50 split of MIG or TIG it fits the theme.

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The drivers side bumps directly against the truss over the differential. The passenger side I had to get a little creative and chop up the link mount and add a strike pad at the right level. The strike pad is internally braced and has a pass through tunnel on the bottom for the brake line.

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Everything is super tight but seems to clear! I might get longer shocks in the future to use up that shaft that's showing. That shaft isn't totally useless though since it comes into play when flexed.

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Drivers side is even tighter. I will move the power steering lines, probably run them under the skid brace to make sure they can't get squished.

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And its first time sitting on all proper bump stops! I wish this was ride height, it looks so cool slammed.

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I also threw some reservoir brackets together using the shock jaws and a piece of delrin to form them which worked really great actually.

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Not a lot of places to put the reservoir without changing the hoses, so these will do for now.

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With the suspension sorted, the next task was to setup the interior. I've ordered a ton of parts, and first up is a bunch of stuff from PCI. I got their forced air and one of their UTV intercoms. I've had the fancier intercoms before but honestly prefer the UTV stuff since it's super simple with just squelch and volume. I also bought a Kenwood TM-281a off eBay which is the same radio I have in the Can Am. Additionally I bought a second Switch Pros which will primarily be used to run stuff that doesn't need a switch necessarily, like the supercharger intercooler pump, chase bar, etc.

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Last night I started mocking up the center console. The switch pro on the dash was impossible to reach without pulling the harnesses off and same thing with the kill switch, so the first switch pro which controls critical functions will be mounted next to the seat with the kill switch immediately in front of it, and behind that is the intercom with the furthest forward knob being squelch. Additionally there is still room for the hand brake to get installed in the future between the shifters. The radio will probably get mounted behind the transmission shifter, which then leaves room for cup holders and some storage behind everything
:D
The dash mounted switch pro will be the second one I just got and control stuff that doesn't usually get switched on/off--essentially all the "race mode" functions. What is extremely cool too is both switch pro power blocks are mounted between the seats, and since all critical functions are isolated to one switch pro, in the event a power block or switch panel dies, all that's needed is to swap two plugs between the power blocks and everything will still work, so the power distribution at least is fully redundant. I don't expect that to be an issue, but I have heard of these solid state systems melting if they're pumping a lot of juice.

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I am super excited with how the center console is coming together! I'll be able to reach everything strapped in by moving my right hand a couple inches. Which seems obvious to do, but I know I'm not the only one that has placed stuff and then strapped in and realized it's impossible to reach.

And that wraps up my progress to this point! Other things that I ordered and waiting on:
-Sabelt 6 point harnesses, and I just got TMR weld in eyelets and mirrors
-PRP window nets, which will be tight but should show up a few days before the race, I will be running buckle style latches on the top and bottom of the net
-A larger air filter and sock which will be tucked behind the winch
-More fire extinguishers and a fire suppression system
-Front limit straps

And there's a bunch of little fab stuff to do obviously. I need to finish the floors/rear panels, I need to make body panels, add a front shock cross brace, finish some welds on the chassis and cap the tube ends, and I want to mount a spare tire hanging off the back, etc.

The race is the 26th, so I have 2.5 weeks to finish the buggy to a raceable state! Needless to say, this is not meant to be competitive at all, I just want to enter in some races for fun. If the buggy can do 200 miles and find out some issues at a little Utah race that'll be awesome. There's a proper Ultra4 race in Havasu in October, so if this goes well I might drop the big engine and a new trans into it and see if I can party with the big boys!

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