This is the only one I have saved on my phone. Trg mount with psc pumpNice! Do you have any pics on how you got the psc ps pump mounted on your 3.4? Are you using the tg bracket? I have one and I can't figure it out just by looking at it, which isn't saying much
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chaplinfj60
Well-known member
how thick are the drive shaft walls. i think my rear is .250 and front .375
Ya I think I have a ton of axle wrap from my bent Chevy 63s and it finally had enough. That was a brand new shaft to lol.is that shaft bent also? my gosh....
Day 3: I ran out to Tommys Shop (tt motorsports) in Lucerne and he was nice enough to let me use his press to straighten out the bent shaft. Threw it back in and decided to try and run Jackhammer.
We made it about 3/4 of the way through the trail when Colin got bound up in a big hole and blew his rear driveshaft ujoint. We got him fixed then I made it about 10 ft further and my driveshaft decided it had enough and snapped clean in half. We got me turned around and I made it back out of the trail in 2wd.
left my truck on the lake bed and rode passenger with Todd. We went back to backdoor, then ran resolution, got lost on red dot trail, turned around and hit guacamole then blueberry. At Blueberry our buddy Levi broke a tie rod end so we swapped that out and called it quits.
Overall the eco box and bed bob made such a huge difference I feel like I'm wheeling something a lot more nimble than a full size taco
We made it about 3/4 of the way through the trail when Colin got bound up in a big hole and blew his rear driveshaft ujoint. We got him fixed then I made it about 10 ft further and my driveshaft decided it had enough and snapped clean in half. We got me turned around and I made it back out of the trail in 2wd.
left my truck on the lake bed and rode passenger with Todd. We went back to backdoor, then ran resolution, got lost on red dot trail, turned around and hit guacamole then blueberry. At Blueberry our buddy Levi broke a tie rod end so we swapped that out and called it quits.
Overall the eco box and bed bob made such a huge difference I feel like I'm wheeling something a lot more nimble than a full size taco
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
yes get anti wrap bar asap.
2" 1/4 wall but I keep breaking it at the splined portion where it necks down. Gonna get some new leafs and add an anti wrap and see how it does
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
sounds like a blast though.
It was a great time, I am definitely pushing the taco harder and harder each time I go out
We didn't see a single rig out on the trails which was funny since they are already setting up Hammer town. I love going to JV before the hordes of drunken idiots get out there
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
well if you have to build a track bar. why not build 3 more mounts and do 4 links.....
gotta keep the gas tank in stock location for smog. And I don't feel like being in the shop for the next 2 months doing links lol. I think chevys with air bumps and an anti wrap might hold upwell if you have to build a track bar. why not build 3 more mounts and do 4 links.....
Slander
Team no stickys
Awesome that helps! Did you have to drill any of the pump mounting holes out or anything?This is the only one I have saved on my phone. Trg mount with psc pump
Also tell colin to make some more vids
check page 6 of my build, its got all the details but ya you have to drill out the upper hole on the pump to get it to bolt up then source a allen head bolt that clears the pulley. Otherwise you gotta put the pulley on once pump is installed on the truckAwesome that helps! Did you have to drill any of the pump mounting holes out or anything?
Also tell colin to make some more vids
we all have been telling Colin that lol, he has a few vids lined up he just has to finish editing them
Slander
Team no stickys
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
What piece is that? Looks new, so guessing not stock Toyota. Never seen anyone break that piece.
Are you positive that you can't move it? I believe you can as long as you keep all the associated bs. Maybe find a better smog guy
Also, if you do a wrap bar, make sure you over build the shit out of it. They take a lot more stress than people realize. I broke my first one in half, built it out of thicker tube and better design, then twisted my ifs rear axle right at the diff. This was on a 2500 lb samurai on 37s
Slander
Team no stickys
Few months back we had our first kid, when I was on morning duty the first few weeks I’d just put his vids on and zone out with the baby. Perfect with no talking and stuff just chill music and crawlingAlso tell colin to make some more vids
Slander
Team no stickys
Yea that's why I like them. Wubsor's videos are like that as well.Few months back we had our first kid, when I was on morning duty the first few weeks I’d just put his vids on and zone out with the baby. Perfect with no talking and stuff just chill music and crawling
As much as I like pathmaker productions, sometimes you want to watch wheeling without zukis at redline with Canadians yelling over them
I don’t always need “hey guys welcome to the channel” followed by a 5 minute recap of the content. Pathmaker is good but, I can’t help but focus on the cadence of how he talks. Good content though.Yea that's why I like them. Wubsor's videos are like that as well.
As much as I like pathmaker productions, sometimes you want to watch wheeling without zukis at redline with Canadians yelling over them
Not to derail this thread, I also vote for seeing chays2464 shit work in one of Collins videos
Yotacrawlin
Well-known member
Shesh you and rear driveshafts I feel like every update is well I broke another one lol. When you build the anti wrap bar see if you can make it just a little lower than the driveshaft so it can help take the hits over the driveshaft on the rocks.
I did see your post about going to 1350s check tom woods I’m pretty sure he just starting selling Toyota triple drilled T case flanges that accept 1310s,1330s and 1350s of course you’d have to go back sterling factory flange to get a bigger rear joint. But the bigger joint with the added mass of the heavy wall driveline that will help.
I did see your post about going to 1350s check tom woods I’m pretty sure he just starting selling Toyota triple drilled T case flanges that accept 1310s,1330s and 1350s of course you’d have to go back sterling factory flange to get a bigger rear joint. But the bigger joint with the added mass of the heavy wall driveline that will help.
The drive shaft splined portion is a trail gear unit from Yota masters, only reason I ran it again was they warrantied the first one for free,What piece is that? Looks new, so guessing not stock Toyota. Never seen anyone break that piece.
Are you positive that you can't move it? I believe you can as long as you keep all the associated bs. Maybe find a better smog guy
Also, if you do a wrap bar, make sure you over build the shit out of it. They take a lot more stress than people realize. I broke my first one in half, built it out of thicker tube and better design, then twisted my ifs rear axle right at the diff. This was on a 2500 lb samurai on 37s
The 4 link would be rad but then I loose my bed space and Im not ready for it to be a dedicated trail rig since this is my daily and yak/bike hauler
He has a vid almost finished from a Rubicon trip so stay tuned for that to drop. I am trying to get him to make a short vid from our last JV trip. Just wheeling and carnage
I think I am gonna go that route, I need a sterling flange with a 1350 ujoint on the axle side then a good anti wrap bar that sits lower than the driveshaft along with some actual bumpstops
Hodgiemoto
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2020
- Member Number
- 2950
- Messages
- 176
Man, some day I gotta get down there on a non KOH weekend and just wheel. We always go for KOH but to be there without the crowds and bottle necks has got to be so much more relaxing. Great to see all the Yotas out there.
And yes more Colin videos
And yes more Colin videos
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
i can not stress it enough, the mounts on your axle for the anti wrap bar need to be solid. like when you think they are good send us photos or add more meat. dont be afraid to make the mount wrap completely around the tube. you are trying to stop a shit ton of twist. here is how i did mine with 63s. just ideas. one thing i should have done different is my lower mount hole should have been lower so my bar would make a skid for drive shaft. but mine was like a inch or so above drive shaft so i hit it alot.
again make that thing crazy beefy....
Yotacrawlin
Well-known member
I hear you but remember it’s more about the actual penetration of the weld on the axle side. On these 1 tons we’re dealing with 1/2” wall tubes and most anti wrap brackets are 3/8s plate so as long as you have a welder big enough to penetrate it or at least preheat the tubes and plate if your welder doesn’t do that thick.i can not stress it enough, the mounts on your axle for the anti wrap bar need to be solid. like when you think they are good send us photos or add more meat. dont be afraid to make the mount wrap completely around the tube. you are trying to stop a shit ton of twist. here is how i did mine with 63s. just ideas. one thing i should have done different is my lower mount hole should have been lower so my bar would make a skid for drive shaft. but mine was like a inch or so above drive shaft so i hit it alot.
again make that thing crazy beefy....
I decided to throw air bumps on the back along with some new chevy 63s, I didn't want to tackle linking the back right now (although with the amount of time I have into the bumps I should have just done it). Running the overloads on the 63s this time to see if that helps with axle wrap. Rear still needs frame plated and crossmember between bump cans but its getting there. The cans warped from all the heat even with a mock up bump in there so I get to hone them out as well. Gonna destroke the bumps to 2" as well
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
good deal... bumps can be a pain sometimes for sure.
on a side note. colin slos john webb vid was a excellent vid. loved that one.
on a side note. colin slos john webb vid was a excellent vid. loved that one.
Slander
Team no stickys
Nice!! I was expecting installing airbumps in the rear on mine to suck more than it actually did. I have a narrower axle than you and it worked out nicely! Looks good man!I decided to throw air bumps on the back along with some new chevy 63s, I didn't want to tackle linking the back right now (although with the amount of time I have into the bumps I should have just done it). Running the overloads on the 63s this time to see if that helps with axle wrap. Rear still needs frame plated and crossmember between bump cans but its getting there. The cans warped from all the heat even with a mock up bump in there so I get to hone them out as well. Gonna destroke the bumps to 2" as well
Also agree with chap that web video was great!