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Boot rack for the flatbed on one of my pickups. Needed a way of storing muck boots for irrigating. Upside down so they don't get full of rain, dirt and hay... Folds out to make it easier to insert and remove the boots. Cable in the middle is to hook my stupid dog on the back by his harness so he won't fall off the pickup. :laughing:

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Then I made an aerator for the yard. My wife was looking at one at the local gettin' place for $100 but it was just super cheap stamped metal. So I built one. Had about $50 worth of parts in it plus some stuff I had lying around already. Only had to buy the two bearings for the side and the 1-7/8 ball hitch. Everything else was out of the metal pile. Spikey things are from a John Deere rotary hoe. I cut every other tooth off to make it more aggressive. Running them backwards from how they normally run so it would chip out a piece when pulling out of the ground. Might add a tractor wheel weight to the tongue to give it more down pressure.

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And finally, not technically something I made, but I re-built these ripper shanks on a John Deere disk-ripper. They were worn pretty badly. Had to build up the front of the shanks and the bottoms too to make the teeth fit tight again. Then added some HI chrome "shin guards" to it to help prevent future wear. I did get some new ripper teeth too that go up to right below that first shin guard, but figured I'd finish wearing out the old teeth first before swapping them on. Took about 20 hours of buildup welding and grinding to get them all done... Made for a miserable couple of days.

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[486] said:
"hi chrome shin guards"

cut up broken sockets?
Everyone's got a bucket or two of oddball sockets (tons of 1/2 dr 7/16", tons of 5/8 and 11/16, tons of 1", never any 3/4, 7/8, 15/16 or 1 1/16)
Click to expand...
That might work... These are purpose built for ripper shanks. You can get them in different widths and they are segmented so you can smack them with a hammer and break them up into like 2" segments. I think it was a whopping $14 per shank. Well worth it.

Shin Guard Inserts – Wasco Hardfacing Co

wascohardfacing.com wascohardfacing.com
 
Muckin_Slusher said:
Some places (not here) don't allow unions on gas pipe, so instead they use a nipple and coupling that are lefty/righty. Must be for fixing them...
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huh neat

I like that solution except for the absolute hell it'd play with trying to fix anything unless they've got some identifying feature like a cannelure formed into the pipe and something like the ring on fuel gas torch hose nuts
 
[486] said:
huh neat

I like that solution except for the absolute hell it'd play with trying to fix anything unless they've got some identifying feature like a cannelure formed into the pipe and something like the ring on fuel gas torch hose nuts
Click to expand...
The couplings have cross hatching.
 
MuntCuffin said:
I have one sitting in a box unopened I bought on sale 6 months ago. :homer:

Why ya hate it?
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I bought it with the idea that I could speed up my brass prep. Decap, Size, Mandrel all with one pull of the handle, and if I ever decide to load pistol, I could use it as a full 5 station press. And I watched the Gavintube video where he went on and on about the LnL bushings and how it moves the shell plate 50% on the downstroke and the remaining 50% on the upstroke, which made sense to help with spilling powder, etc., but I could never get it to do that, it would not move the shell plate fully to the next station and if I wasn't paying close attention I'd smash a neck against the sizing die. I tried everything I could think of, slowing down, full hard stop, made sure everything was lubed, made some adjustments, and finally gave up. Now I just use the SAC sizing dies which decap, size and mandrel in one pull on the Zero press. Fixed the stupid money with lots of smart money.

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Sceep said:
Dad modified some cam straps to work with e-track buckles. Gonna try out the peg tie-down thing and see if we like doing it this way.
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I just did something simliar but with Chain and carabiners. It is working really well so far. No real reason for sucking the suspension to far down as it only moves around a little bit. Get the e track hold down with the metal ring attached. Works great.
 
fireman0977 said:
Get the e track hold down with the metal ring attached. Works great.
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Got those, see it in the bottom left of last pic? Ring was too big to use ring, and strap with 2 hooks. Couldnt shorten them enough to get any pressure at all.
Dont have enough room in the bus to lean over far enough to hook them to pegs, hence the need for the short straps instead of a chain. Don't want to mess with turnbuckles. I want it fast and easy. So far looks like its gonna work great. Probably have to upgrade to better straps but this was proof of concept.
 
Sceep said:
Got those, see it in the bottom left of last pic? Ring was too big to use ring, and strap with 2 hooks. Couldnt shorten them enough to get any pressure at all.
Dont have enough room in the bus to lean over far enough to hook them to pegs, hence the need for the short straps instead of a chain. Don't want to mess with turnbuckles. I want it fast and easy. So far looks like its gonna work great. Probably have to upgrade to better straps but this was proof of concept.
Click to expand...
The solution is obviously to upgrade to a taller bike so you have room to use a ratchet strap on it :grinpimp:

Edit, to be a little more serious, you could also try a chain or a short piece of strap sewn around the ring (an old strap that had a cut halfway up the strap) one side and a ratchet strap setup like that cinch strap on the other.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
The solution is obviously to upgrade to a taller bike so you have room to use a ratchet strap on it :grinpimp:

Aaron Z
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Next you're gonna ask me where the hell the seat is, aren't you? :flipoff2:
Pretty sure its taller at the pegs than any bike I own. :laughing:
 
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Tank to run 200hp outboard with the drive on a dyno for a durability test. Just got it running and on break-in today.:smokin:

Had to submerge the drive while keeping the shaft dry. Came up with a double front wall that is mostly sealed to the prop output and we control the leaking water with the double wall portion and drain it off.
 
Wanted some USB outlets in the dash of my truck.

Drew up a replacement for the 12v outlet panel. had space for a cubbyhole too. which is perfect, because this was mostly for charging a Garmin bike computer, and it fits in there. less stuff in cup holders is good.

Screenshot 2023-05-20 163920.png


3D Printed it.

Bought some things off amazon. Cut, crimp, and heat shrink to shorten wires. this picture is of 1st attempt, which didn't fit. Fusion screenshot above is final version.

20230519_125605.jpg



Then popped it in the dash. Not happy with the finish, will probably pop it out to sand & paint, but for now it works.

20230520_162728.jpg
 
Last edited:
granitestatedestroyer said:
Wanted some USB outlets in the dash of my truck.

Drew up a replacement for the 12v outlet panel. had space for a cubbyhole too. which is perfect, because this was mostly for charging a Garmin bike computer, and it fits in there. less stuff in cup holders is good.

Screenshot 2023-05-20 163920.png


3D Printed it.

Bought some things off amazon. Cut, crimp, and heat shrink to shorten wires. this picture is of 1st attempt, which didn't fit. Fusion screenshot above is final version.

20230519_125605.jpg



Then popped it in the dash. Not happy with the finish, will probably pop it out to sand & paint, but for now it works.

20230520_162728.jpg
Click to expand...
Nice job! A little high-build primer & sanding, then a coat or 2 of whatever SEM Bumper Coater is closest to your dash plastics, and it would look factory :grinpimp:

1684618571682.png
 
aczlan said:
The solution is obviously to upgrade to a taller bike so you have room to use a ratchet strap on it :grinpimp:

Edit, to be a little more serious, you could also try a chain or a short piece of strap sewn around the ring (an old strap that had a cut halfway up the strap) one side and a ratchet strap setup like that cinch strap on the other.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
 
IowaOffRoad said:
Tank to run 200hp outboard with the drive on a dyno for a durability test. Just got it running and on break-in today.:smokin:

Had to submerge the drive while keeping the shaft dry. Came up with a double front wall that is mostly sealed to the prop output and we control the leaking water with the double wall portion and drain it off.
Click to expand...

Steam turbines use a similar idea - labyrinth seal. Basically make as small of gap as you can and provide a path for the leakage to go away.
 
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