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Random stuff you made.

CarterKraft said:
Built this "blast box" a few years back for sound reinforcement at my daughter's volleyball games, that's how I learned about "pro sound":homer::lmao:

Selling it to a co worker, figured I better finish it...

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Didn’t read the last sentence the first go around and was confused with the speaker cover. :homer: Thought to myself that’s an odd thing to bring to a youth volleyball game. After I read the last sentence it made more sense. :lmao:
 
This thing is really awesome loud in my house yard etc.

Took it to a gym full of kids and parents and I shit you not you couldn't even hear it.
 
CarterKraft said:
It was only going to be used with a jack.
I really just wanted to see it work, but when it didn't simply pivot I kind of panicked.

I did cut a "ratchet" arm out to allow it to be manually lifted and lock at 2" intervals but that didn't work worth a fuck either...
I forgot about that until know :lmao:
A whole nother slot I cut and had to weld back up.
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My Brain design has two J arms that raises the bottom pivot point and another arm that pushes up on the bottom of the pan. The scissor jack is mounted horizontally and pushes both parts at the same time. Can spread the load and twisting forces over a larger area.

Glad it's done
 
Picked up my buddies 67 Rambler that he took apart back in 08 and it sat in the shop since. Kids and life happens, we know the story. He recently moved and with his work picking up decided to let me get it going for him. I picked it up June 16, installed the 5.3/T56 along with all the shit that goes with it. Wiring/exhaust/trans tunnel/clutch linkage/big radiator/exhaust, fuel pump/ fuel lines/…blah blah blah. I fired it yesterday and today he came down for the maiden voyage today. Everything went smooth and we made it back to the house.

Pulling it out of the barn after a few years
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Today
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Cool!

15 years ago I had an American just like that, but black and rusted out. It was a fun DD.

A 5.3 would have made it funner!
 
Company I work for, the owner owns several businesses. One of them is construction company. Anyway, they have a Toolcat that someone screwered the hydraulic tank with a metal T-post. They've been fucking with it for a year. The part is NLA and can't find a used one. They have tried to plastic weld it, tried to patch it with fiberglass, tried to find a company to build a new tank out of aluminum, all to no avail.

I'm 15 hours into this fucking thing but it's finally taking shape. Once I have it fully welded and airtight to 10psi or so, I'll paint it and put a liquid liner in it and put it all back together. If they had just asked me a year ago :homer:

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Johnny Longrifle said:
Company I work for, the owner owns several businesses. One of them is construction company. Anyway, they have a Toolcat that someone screwered the hydraulic tank with a metal T-post. They've been fucking with it for a year. The part is NLA and can't find a used one. They have tried to plastic weld it, tried to patch it with fiberglass, tried to find a company to build a new tank out of aluminum, all to no avail.

I'm 15 hours into this fucking thing but it's finally taking shape. Once I have it fully welded and airtight to 10psi or so, I'll paint it and put a liquid liner in it and put it all back together. If they had just asked me a year ago :homer:

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Get it welded out leak free and don't fuck with any sealer liner junk. If that stuff fails it's a mess.
 
Johnny Longrifle said:
Company I work for, the owner owns several businesses. One of them is construction company. Anyway, they have a Toolcat that someone screwered the hydraulic tank with a metal T-post. They've been fucking with it for a year. The part is NLA and can't find a used one. They have tried to plastic weld it, tried to patch it with fiberglass, tried to find a company to build a new tank out of aluminum, all to no avail.

I'm 15 hours into this fucking thing but it's finally taking shape. Once I have it fully welded and airtight to 10psi or so, I'll paint it and put a liquid liner in it and put it all back together. If they had just asked me a year ago :homer:

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IMG_20240908_172259858.jpg

IMG_20240908_172319461.jpg



IMG_20240908_174049570.jpg
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10psi ?!?!?!? no no.

test it to 1.5-2 psi.



think how many SQ inches of sheet you have there and x that by 10... that is an incredible amount of force and for the shape of that tank i'd say very dangerous. 1.5-2psi is very common test pressure for leaks on a non pressurized tank. most of the time I test with just a vacuum blowing out, don't seal tight and some soapy water. and no liner, unless you want future problems
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Get it welded out leak free and don't fuck with any sealer liner junk. If that stuff fails it's a mess.
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I've built a couple gas tanks before and used the Por15 stuff. But now that I study a little more, the liner is a bad idea. I'll just wash and magnet the inside best I can.
tracyb said:
10psi ?!?!?!? no no.

test it to 1.5-2 psi.



think how many SQ inches of sheet you have there and x that by 10... that is an incredible amount of force and for the shape of that tank i'd say very dangerous. 1.5-2psi is very common test pressure for leaks on a non pressurized tank. most of the time I test with just a vacuum blowing out, don't seal tight and some soapy water. and no liner, unless you want future problems
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Good thing I edited my post from my original thought of 15psi:lmao: The cap is vented but holds some pressure. I'll try and figure out approx what psi it holds.

Thank you both for the input! :beer:
 
Johnny Longrifle said:
I've built a couple gas tanks before and used the Por15 stuff. But now that I study a little more, the liner is a bad idea. I'll just wash and magnet the inside best I can.

Good thing I edited my post from my original thought of 15psi:lmao: The cap is vented but holds some pressure. I'll try and figure out approx what psi it holds.

Thank you both for the input! :beer:
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its not intuitive how little pressure you need to leak test a tank. and for real I usually use an m18 vacuum blowing out only sealed with a rag when testing hydraulic/ fuel/ water/ etc tanks. if critical I'll hook up a regulator and go as high as 3psi, but no more.

with the shape of that tank, 10psi would probably make leaks that were not there and deform the thing enough you'd have to start over.

if you ever do need to test at higher psi, use water. when it fails it wont be as violent. when we test higher psi with water we fill, and bleed, the system and attach a pressure washer, leave the motor switch in the off position and build pressure using the pull cord until we hit test pressure.



I had an inspector demand to pressure test a 10k gal stainless water holding tank with a flat bottom and tapered roof, to 15psi. I told him how dump that would be but said if you must, I wont be anywhere near and I suggest filling it at least 3/4 with water before. so they but 7-8k gall in it sealed it and pumped it up to 12psi... they stopped there because the the bottom of the tank broke all the 1/2" concrete anchor hold downs and lifted the bottom edge almost a foot off the ground! it held for his prescribed 24hrs and when they let it off it sounded like an m80, just flipping a 2" ball valve. :homer:
 
tracyb said:
10psi ?!?!?!? no no.

test it to 1.5-2 psi.



think how many SQ inches of sheet you have there and x that by 10... that is an incredible amount of force and for the shape of that tank i'd say very dangerous. 1.5-2psi is very common test pressure for leaks on a non pressurized tank. most of the time I test with just a vacuum blowing out, don't seal tight and some soapy water. and no liner, unless you want future problems
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I'll try to remember that next time I test an outdoor wood boiler. They make fun noises when I test them at about 5psi.
 
When the 2nd out of the 3 heater control levers broke on my 72, I had to do something because in the morning here defrost is needed, in the afternoon no heat is needed. I found a used control on Cl for 25 bucks (hour and a half away like everything is here) and bought it for if I ever want to go back to original.

Then I did this to my broken levers with stainless wire and JB Weld. It works great. I'll cover the works with felt or something later.

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Filthy McChevy said:
When the 2nd out of the 3 heater control levers broke on my 72, I had to do something because in the morning here defrost is needed, in the afternoon no heat is needed. I found a used control on Cl for 25 bucks (hour and a half away like everything is here) and bought it for if I ever want to go back to original.

Then I did this to my broken levers with stainless wire and JB Weld. It works great. I'll cover the works with felt or something later.

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I miss cables and levers! Why can’t I just get some ambient air out of my defrost vents without having the compressor kick on! It’s hot and swampy out and I’m just trying to stop the condensation on the outside of the windshield :mad3:
 
Firstram said:
I miss cables and levers! Why can’t I just get some ambient air out of my defrost vents without having the compressor kick on! It’s hot and swampy out and I’m just trying to stop the condensation on the outside of the windshield :mad3:
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Had a 98 Jimmy that nothing worked right on. I feel your pain.
 
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