Its a YotaShop engine and its been great.How's your LCE engine doing? Squirrels doing ok?
Getting ready for the next race!
Its a YotaShop engine and its been great.How's your LCE engine doing? Squirrels doing ok?
Oh ok, sweet deal!Its a YotaShop engine and its been great.
looked like a wicked cool race for the 4600s.
It was a great course. High speed sections, crazy scenery, awesome rock sections and winch obstacles.Looked like a cool race course. What did you think of it?
I don't have any good pics right now. I will get some posted shortly. I do have a photo of all the gear oil leaking out lol. I also lost the fuel filler cap, this caused the fuel pump to get loud. I would switch to the other pump till it started making noise then back to the other one.damn! Any pics of the case? Cracked?
damn! Any pics of the case? Cracked?
what is this fix... because this happened not too long back if i recall.
Sometimes it is easier to check your gears from the outside, not during a race normally, but whatever!
I think it was the new axle housing and driveshaft plus the 30 year old tcase housing. I ran the same driveshaft last year bottoming out with no shocks for a few hours with no breakage. Lesson learned, measure dummy.
For all regional/season races:Looks awesome. What size leaf spring pin are you running?
What youtube channel do these races get posted on?
First time doesn't look like much more than measure the driveshaft well. Shearing a centering pin -- would it be craziness to drill 2 more centering pins? I see axle perches with multiple pin holes so people can move their axle, but what if you threw two extra pins through the pack?
what is this fix... because this happened not too long back if i recall.
I dug back. This thread is awesome. Thanks for posting it PBR. Lots of lessons to learn.
First time doesn't look like much more than measure the driveshaft well. Shearing a centering pin -- would it be craziness to drill 2 more centering pins? I see axle perches with multiple pin holes so people can move their axle, but what if you threw two extra pins through the pack?
I think ubolt eliminators would hold the axle from shifting as much even if the pin sheared. Those might help. I have them on my rear axle and it definitely stays in place better than u bolts. I hate u bolts. Only time before I go eliminators on the front.
Also, PBR, are you carrying a spare third member? Looking back for that Tcase failure I realize how many 8" R&Ps you've fried while racing. Seems like for KOH length race, that wouldn't be bad to have in the bed. You might be able to find an old axle to cut the center section out of then weld end caps onto to make a mount that will hold the third member and keep dust out of it.
Currently running the TrailGear fully built unit with new gears.Are you running the upgraded reduction housings?
ubolts probably need to be a replacement item after every race. i bet they stretched and then loosed then DNF.
any signs that the bumpstop is not striking or sliding off the pad?
ubolts probably need to be a replacement item after every race. i bet they stretched and then loosed then DNF.
any signs that the bumpstop is not striking or sliding off the pad?
I've always been on the other side of the fence - new ones seem like they need to be torqued repeatedly till they hit their point of being 'broken in.' I never wanted new ones in before a race and tried to stick with my broken in old ones. If they have to come out, they get cleaned up with a tap and die, then back in they go. Can't say I've had issues with ubolts loosening up with that method
If ubolts stretch, the thread pitch changes. How does a tap “unstretch” them? A tap should be used to cut, or recut damaged, threads. It should not be used as a die to reform stretched threads.
That’s where I’m getting lost. But I may be wrong.
Unbolt eliminators shorten the lever arm between the spring perch and the spring plate. They also tighten up the gap between the spring perch and the bottom of the leaf to more accurately represent a shear plane, rather than ubolts that have a much longer arm and rely on defeating a large bending moment placed on the much longer shank of the the u bolt. That seems like a big mechanical advantage to eliminators, but ubolts may work fine if you are a diligent driver.
I am not.